Richard, Are you asking for a complete job by a rebuilder? My A65 I think cost about $1000-$1200 with me doing all assembly/disassembly. It included machine shop work.... headwork, rebore, crank grind and polish, align bore of bush, resize one rod. New pistons, rings, rod bearings, gaskets and a few other odds and ends I'm sure.
I rebuilt my entire B50 including paint job, motor and transmission for about $2500. It was a total basket case when I started it, but most eveything was there.
Sorry, I meant if a professional shop did the work. Someone asked me so I thought I would bounce it off the forum. Does no include removal or installation. Considering the effort in setting up the crank end play, line bore, balancing, sizing the rods, fitting cam bushings, boring the barrels, valve work etc. I still think $2500 to $3000 is not a bad ball park est.
Your estimate is probably about right for shop doing the work on a std engine, but why the "no roller conversion", it's one of the best things you can do? By the time you spend on a bush, line bore it machine the crank and shim it you would have spent enough to be well on the way to a roller conversion. New high spec rods are about $400-500, I'd do that first then work the budget from there for the rest, because the bottom end is then good, and shouldn't need disturbing for a very long time, which to my mind makes it better value. It's easy to work on a better top end at a later time if necessary. Cam bearings rarely need doing and the BSA cam is not something needing replacing, so no need to spend in that area.
Richard, I agree $2500-$3000 is pretty reasonable if you had a rebuilder do the entire job and you just had to put the motor back in the bike. I spent a lot of hours on mine checking myself along the way, but it paid off. All the info you need is in the manual or on this site, but people attempting to rebuild for the first time really need experience in taking things apart and putting them back together. They need to have a feel for things like fit, how tight is tight, torque, clearances, using tools, when not to force something, knowing when a thread is worn out...etc, etc. I don't have a particularly stong resume as a rebuilder of engines but I have been fixing stuff, like washing machines, cars and all grades of house hold stuff as well as industrial machinery most of my life. Those experiences along with an engineering background make tasks like rebuilding a motorcycle motor and transmission less daunting. The Internet has bee a great help also
I guess I am rambling a little foem you question.... Mr Mike
Mark, I might try a conversion some day but I gotta wear out the bush I got in the a65 first. I don't ride real hard so it will likely last a long time and I have pretty much decided to not acquire any more bikes....unless something special comes along at the right price. I've got three riders now, and I don't put but a few thousand on each one in a year....maybe 10,000 miles total per year. But I never say never.
I am pushing 30K miles on the current TS main bearing. With a filter.
The original TS main bearing went through 3 speedos.....total of about 62K miles. I was the 4th owner, it only had an oil filter the last 15k miles. The TS main bearing was truly worn out. I didn't take it down for the TS main bearing being worn out, I was tired of too much end play knock at idle....
Mike, I feel the same way about the bushing. Clean oil, general usage, an oil filter should take you at least 10000 miles. Richard
If I thought 10,000 miles was all I was going to get out of a BSA bottom end, I'd be into a roller conversion in a heartbeat.
No more than most BSAs get ridden, something else generally goes bad just from sitting so long, or a ham-fisted friend riding it or wrenching on it, before the bushing would actually wear out.
I got 40,000 miles out of my old Lightning engine, and it was still running strong (with a set of rings and a valve grind job) when I sold it. Dan Danmeier's A65 that he rode from California to Massachusetts and back two-up for the 2006 Int'l had the original bushing in it with 50,000 miles. Peter Twyman's road-warrior purple A65 that Tom rode for the IOM rally probably has more than that.
My Firebird's has probably 20,000 on it in 4 years (or is it 5, Mike? Tempus Fugit when you're having fun) and I've got no reason to expect problems soon ....
We're approaching the tipping point ... where those who vote for a living will outnumber those who work for a living .....
Just to add to Lannis's comments. I know of 1 bush which was dodgy when the member bought the bike and was still in there ( and still dodgy ) when he sold it 60,000 miles latter. Another member who rode his A65 from the UK to Australia had near 100,000 on his when he traded it for an MZ ( it was not holding pressure by then at idle ). Both of them changed their oil very frequently. One every time he went for a ride and the other every week ( his bike was a ride to work 25 mile job). OTOH, if you like to change gears 7255 rpm then a roller big end is a good idea. Other wise , spend the money that you would have paid out for the roller on oil.
Ya know, about 7 years ago when this site was starting to get some attention, the general consensus was the BSA bottom end wouldn't stay together...and many did not given the condition they were likely shipped from Small Heath. I found a Lightning and after a year of riding it was a-knocking. Endplay was pushing .020" I couldn't stand to ride it because I always thought if I rolled on the throttle it would turn loose a rod. When I tore it down the bush was right at .003" clearance (outer limit) so I just tried to put it together carefully after reading every post on the subject on this site and a couple of service manuals. I paid attention to what seemed important to me and went thru the motor completely. The bike has been very reliable and trouble free since. I only have about 8,000 miles on it but it doesn't clunk or leak oil (well not completely), starts easily, good smooth power. Couldn't ask for any more from it.
Now if I was designing something else, I probably would have a ball/roller on the drive side and a roller on the timing side, but these bikes "are what they are". Most of us developed a love affair with these bikes years ago and are challenged by their shortcomings and we are "like it or not", a subset of a culture that hangs out on the fringe. Gees, if we were all in the center of the "Bell Shaped Curve", there wouldn't be any BSA's around and we wouldn't be having any fun.
Lannis, I can't remember when I worked on your motor probably 4- 5 years ago. Sometimes I can't remember stuff that happened five minutes ago. The last bike I did was the B50 4 years ago and it has run great too. I did break a lifter and I had trouble with oil leaks in the rocker box, but other than that it has been fine.