If we rolled the bike into my shop, here's what I'd do:
1) Up on the stand, pull the plugs, screw compression tester into left plug hole, open throttle wide, kick three or four times. Unscrew, screw into right side, open throttle wide, kick three or four times. If readings are over 120 PSI and within 20 PSI of each other, I'd go on to the ignition. If readings are lower, don't keep kicking. 20 minutes down.
2) Ignition. Static-time the Boyer
. Plugs are still out, so rotate the engine to 34 degrees before top dead center. Don't know how you do it on your bike, what mods have been made. Is there a mark on the alternator rotor? Is there a notch in the front of the flywheel? Do you measure the piston position down the spark plug hole? With the engine locked at 34 deg BTDC, line the white spots on the Boyer
trigger plate up with the holes; that's close enough to start. 30 minutes down, 50 total.
Load test the battery. Just checking the voltage unloaded won't do it. Turn on the key and check battery voltage. If it's not 12.5 volts, charge it and try again. If it still won't feed 12.5 volts to the Boyer
under load, trash it and get another one. 10 minutes down, 60 total.
With good battery voltage on, take one of the Boyer
trigger wires loose and tap it against the engine case (spark plugs are still out and grounded to the head). You should get a spark snapping across the plugs each time you tap. 15 minutes down, 75 total.
3) If all this checks out, tickle the carb so you KNOW there's gas in the manifold and kick. You should get at least a few turns of the engine firing just on that priming fuel. If it's STILL kicking back on you, you probably have a duff Boyer
. If it turns a couple times and dies, you probably have a blocked pilot jet in the carb.
So in a couple hours, you should have a lot more info about what's going on with the bike ....