If you get a degree wheel then you can check you cams are timed correctly, one tooth front or back will do no real harm, but its another random variable, better if you start with a known sotck setting.
likewise with the Boyer
, you can set up a strobe timeing mark with the chaincase removed , mark a reference point in white marker fluid on the crank end, and fix a pointer to the cases , a bit of coat hanger wire with a point ground and attached to the chaincase innner. Rev the bike with strobe attached and check advance is correct.
you can also use the degree wheel to establish correct ignition timing.
once you have the ignition and cam timing sorted and you know the advance is correct then proceed to mess with the carb. if you dont get these base settings correct all bets are off for jetting.
First get a degree wheel if you need help setting it up and finding TDC just ask,
You will need a piston movement indicator, to establish true TDC bring piston to 1/2 " before tdc and note the reading at the degree wheel mounted on drive side crank end, next take the piston to 1/2" past TDC on the same indicator and note reading at degree wheel, then count the degrees between the two noted readings, divide the degrees by two and right this sum down, now move the motor this number of degrees between the two noted marks, leave the motor in this position and slacken the degree wheel mounting and set to zero degrees , this should be true TDC , lock the degree wheel now and then start to time your cams.
I have a file on Word that will help,
What the hell , here it is any way
excuse the flippant tone it was written for a child to understand.Please not the timing figures quoted are for an A65 substitute B31 cam timings for inlet open/ close and exhaust open and close.
Im going to try and walk you through this.
Read the first bit. Ive got to take the piss a little here but this method will work.
Print out from "ready to time " and have it with you when you are ready.
You are right in assuming the corrections are made by moving the cam wheel, to do this , with draw the idler wheel, move the cam wheel then re insert the idler.
Looking from primary side.
Rocker lid off .
Spark plugs out, dont want to fight compression.
V/V clearances set at 15 thou.(this has to be done before setting to TDC , the way you would normally set v/v lash just a bit more clearance to get over the cam ramps).
Now get a good nights sleep, eat some fish , not farmed or tinned, and some fresh fruit so that you can be sharp in the morning.
GO to sleep repeating the mantra.
"I am going to set my BSA valve timing tomorrow morning" repeat 40 times . Use a piece of 6 mm cord with 40 knots in it to be sure you dont skip one. THis is strong juju and will guarantee success.
Sleep overnight, awake, breakfast on wholewheat toast and peanut butter, nothing too greasy with some good fresh coffee.
Before you start on your valve timing find an old Lucas
component such as a rectifier or advance retard mechanism.
Take your favourite hammer and POUND the Lucas
item to small pieces, this will remove any latent aggresion , help world peace and make your motorcycle more reliable, this is the strongest juju of them all.
Chanting "Collet of a shiny valve, in the crancase boil and bake, con of rod and pin of gudgeon, prepare to time this foul curmudgeon"
Now calm, deep calm...
Cigarette paper (rizla blue) to hand.
Soothing music on in the background, I always time my motor to Augustus Pablo , Big ****y Dub, failing this any quality reggae will do , if you like C and W stop now , you will not be able to time a BSA without reversing some of the earlier incantations, you may not be able to time it at all..
Burn some Castrol R scented candles and sprinkle WD 40 over your tools.
Now wearing your finest technicians brown shop coat , the one with the 6 inch rule and the inspection mirror clipped to the top LHS breast pocket prepare to time the motor.
Wash your hands, and keep some shop towels handy.
Motor at TDC exact,
degree wheel zeroed to pointer, pointer fixed to motor (sharpened coat hanger wire) from base nut on flange or somesuch).
Ready to time.
Looking from primary side, motor runs in anti clock direction.
So starting with an inlet v/v figure, rotate the motor clockwise ( reverse from running position)
51 degrees from TDC. Get this absolutely bang on, I repeat
rotate the motor clockwise counting 51 degrees from TDC.
Stop there , mark this spot on the degree wheel neatly with a fine marker pen.
Now go another 20 degrees or so, more.
Look at your inlet valves ( the springy things on the carb side of the motor), one of them should have v/v lash.
Put your cigarette paper between the rocker arm tappet and the v/v stem.
Hold it there and rotate the motor
anti clockwise ( normal running direction) untill the rocker pinches the rizla paper.
Note where this occurs on your degree wheel.
It should occur at the mark you made at 51 degrees before TDC.
If it does then yee ha! all is well.
If it doesnt , rotate the motor to exactly 51 degrees.
remove the timing idler gear.
Now move the cam , it spins the same way as the motor,( with your finger on the wheel )until the inlet v/v begins to open (pinched rizla)
, put the idler wheel back in (dont worry about timing marks we are way past caring about them at this point).
You may have to compromise by a degree or so at this point to get teeth meshed, but try to get as close as possible.
You should by now have the general idea.
If you dont then get a smart friend to help.
If you do get it.
continue to check all the Inlet close values and Exhaust inlet open values.
If you get the first one correct (procedure above) then the rest should all be within a degree or two.
If not then your method is wrong or you have the wrong camshaft.
If you mark up the card the way I described in the previous post then it will really help.
If this is away over your head, find a friend with a degree wheel , buy him a beer or two once you have checked it over.
I reiterate , if you dont know the valve timing is bang on and the ignition timing is bang on leave the carb alone.
Sorry about the long post , most was on file from previous enquiries, and sorry about the dietary advice , you may have a nut allergy for all I know.