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#206281 - 06/15/07 7:30 am Friction material bonding glue?  
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,719
441/R3cafeSteve Offline
BritBike Forum member
441/R3cafeSteve  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,719
BC Canada
Anyone got some industry names of clutch friction material bonding glue? I have a 100 ton press and can water jet my plates so that is the last hurdle before testing. I have some very trick material, Barnett metal seems soft or my B44 is pumping up around 45hp which even I doubt LOL!
Steve


The 441, most versatile BSA of the 60's
#206282 - 06/15/07 10:47 pm Re: Friction material bonding glue?  
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 706
beltdriveman Offline
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beltdriveman  Offline
BritBike Forum

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 706
Bostic 1777 is the correct stuff you need. However it has to be heat cured as well.
Not cheap but try various distributors... the price can vary somewhat. If you phone Bostic they will e mail or send a data sheet.Well they did when I asked politely.......

#206283 - 06/16/07 11:48 am Re: Friction material bonding glue?  
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 706
beltdriveman Offline
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beltdriveman  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 706
So what is the hardness value of the steel used for the Barnett frivtion plates? I suspect nything over 150 Vickers would be OK with a min of 220 Vickers for the plain plates. Must admit I havent asked the mafufacturer of the organic friction material used by Barnett for mating plate hardness recommendations... Wonderfull material... allows a friend with G50 and a Manx to ride in this years Lansdown Trophy to be at the front or very close to off the start line and into the first bend every time. It aint just engines one tunes to win races......
The MAJOR reason for ears wearing IF the steel is of correct hardness is the owners !!! They fail to realise or understand that the ears and slots on the plates and clutch centre are machined surfaces thus when you put them together for the first time then only one or two of the ears make physical load bearing contact and it requires these ears to wear a tad to get others to also start to take their share of the load. It takes a lot of work /time before all are working equally and the load per ear is very small when it occurs - as are wear rates from then on. So what does the average owner do??? They remove the plates and shove them back in a differnt position thus starting the whole process yet again and increasing the wear on the clutch centre and plates.....Many decades ago I recieved a SEVERE bollocking from one Tommy Mortimer for NOT marking the plates as I took them out of a customers G50 clutch but he then also explained the reasons for the bollocking. I have never forgotton the lesson.
It is for this reason that a designer wuil design the spline on the inside of say a gear as if only one or two of the six or more splines are 'working'. Of course by the time all are bedded in and taking their shate of the load they are well understressed but so what if they are. Ie the lesson also applies to the splined gears in your gearboxes, sprockets etc.The keyway on tapered shaft clutch centres or engine sprockets eg Triumph/BSA/Norton are not there to take load, they are there merely to ensure the lump goes back in exactly the same position on the shaft every time. Of course when you continus to use a shaft taper originally designed for something producing a LOT lessgrunt than say a 650/750 BSA /Triumph (such as on the gearbox mainshaft) then its no wonder keys shear and some people end up shoving two key ways and keys in them TOTALLY forgetting that only an idiot would use a woodruff key in such a situation...as Mr Smith points out in his book 'Engineer To Win'(Page 120). Personally I like his comment regarding his sons Yamaha Sprint Kart crank, of which a ophoto is shown, that broke because of the Woodruff keyway '...its good to realise ther are idiots in Japan, too.' Now I wonder wht the BSA plunger gearbox mainshafts had the Norton spline on them for the clutch?????? Anything to do with Mr Hopwood knowing a tad about basic Engineering I wonder....... clearly more expensive to produce than a taper so it had to go.........
No spell or grammer checks.
Must go learn how to CORRECTLY use my Reglus hole drilling aid......


Moderated by  Allan Gill 


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