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powder coating a BSA frame #16086
10/05/06 8:18 pm
10/05/06 8:18 pm
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 37
Oakland, CA USA
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wallyc Offline OP
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wallyc  Offline OP
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Joined: May 2006
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Oakland, CA USA
I have a couple of restorations that I will be doing over the winter months, and have three mid sixties A65 frames that have been taken apart for powder coating. I am going to have the frames sandblasted first, and then have them powder coated. A couple of questions for those of you have done this before:

What should I do about protecting the bearing seats at the head? I was going to cut some wood blocks and hot glue them in for the blasting.

Should I tell the blaster to not even think about going near the Vin numbers, and just hit them with a wire wheel? Any other parts to stay away from like the swingarm tube (yes, I am going to take out the bushings - melt them out - but should I attempt to insert a dowel, etc?

How do I have the powder coater handle the critical areas, so I do not get any build up in the wrong places like the vin, head where bearing cups go, etc?

Can someone specify a certain color black (I know you are reading this and saying come on, black is black) that you can recommend (tiger drylac, obrien, etc) that would be as close to the black enamel paint as possible?

I have gone over the frame and had to do minor tweaking, and some rewelding of tabs, some light machining, etc, so these really are ready to go.
Am I worrying about nothing and just send them off to be done?


55 road rocket
58 super rocket
39 m20
67 victor ss
67 spitfire mk 3
65 l rocket
65 t rocket
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Re: powder coating a BSA frame #16087
10/05/06 10:10 pm
10/05/06 10:10 pm
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3
M
Mikee1 Offline
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Mikee1  Offline
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3
Sounds like what I plan on doing to my project this winter. What did you do to prep the frame? or are you going to let the sandblaster do all the prepping?

Re: powder coating a BSA frame #16088
10/05/06 10:11 pm
10/05/06 10:11 pm
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
west central ohio where all be...
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drp Offline
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west central ohio where all be...
Here's my take on your questions;

1. Find someone that strips painted parts and have them chemically strip the frames first, then get someone to glass blast the frames. The glass won't affect the races and the glass beads won't obliterate the vin #. It may even be cheaper because most sandblasters will charge based on an hourly rate and it takes awhile to get paint off, especially if the frame is that old stove enamel finish. If you must do sandblasting try to stay away from silica sand, use a carborundum grit like Black beauty and make sure that the grit is not too coarse.

2. Use a TGIC polyester, epoxy coating don't have good UV resistance and will cloud up if exposed to sunlight. All "name" brands are good (tiger drylac, Morton, PPG, Orien, etc). I always use high gloss (90+) but the original was probably closer to 60-70 gloss. I just like shiny black. The shop should have "coupons" of the various shades of black they spray and this will give you an idea of what they look like.

3. Make sure that the coater is willing to do a good job masking those important areas. Typically most coaters do a lot of motorcycle frames and they should be able to show you a sample of their work. Go through the frame with the coater and show them what you want masked.

4. Find someone that does pretreatment prior to powdercoatings. The process is usually; alkaline clean, rinse, phosphate coating (usually iron phosphate), rinse, dry (in an oven) and powder coat.

5. As for the Vin #, if the coater puts a 2 mill thick coating on it you should still be able to read the number. Just tell him you want to be able to read it, if it's a good shop that won't be an issue.

Good luck on the bushings, get ready to burn out the sleeve and rubber and very possibly use a hacksaw blade to split the outer sleeve before it will come out. That's what I had to do on my Norton. Next time I will paint the swingarm with a high gloss solvent based paint and powder coat the frame.

Dave

Re: powder coating a BSA frame #16089
10/05/06 11:28 pm
10/05/06 11:28 pm
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 37
Oakland, CA USA
W
wallyc Offline OP
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wallyc  Offline OP
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 37
Oakland, CA USA
sounds like what I expected. I did indeed take most of the paint of with a jasco chemical stripper, and hosed down, just so that I could see any cracks at the tabs, etc. As for asking my sandblaster to change to a specific media, well, he wont do it. I'll look around for another shop that has glass bead or black beauty running right now.


55 road rocket
58 super rocket
39 m20
67 victor ss
67 spitfire mk 3
65 l rocket
65 t rocket
Re: powder coating a BSA frame #16090
10/05/06 11:31 pm
10/05/06 11:31 pm
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 37
Oakland, CA USA
W
wallyc Offline OP
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wallyc  Offline OP
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 37
Oakland, CA USA
as for the color, there are so many to choose from, and i did not have an example of what was used on the frame. again, not a big deal, but if one is going to go through these steps (using the correct hardware, buying NOS parts and spending money on a good paint job for the side panels and the tank and then sitting them next to the fire up in Canada to cure properly) then is it not an important questions to ask for the color of the frame? I guess i'm too much of a stickler for detail.

redman, where did you get your frame p.coated?


55 road rocket
58 super rocket
39 m20
67 victor ss
67 spitfire mk 3
65 l rocket
65 t rocket
Re: powder coating a BSA frame #16091
10/06/06 1:42 am
10/06/06 1:42 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,470
Owego, NY, USA
Mark Z Offline
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Mark Z  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,470
Owego, NY, USA
As DRP indicated, the original frames were not all that glossy. I've seen bikes that were "over-restored", i.e., much shinier than the day they rolled out of the factory. Some like 'em that way, but if you're going for originality, then you will want to take the gloss factor into consideration.

I've found that acetone dissolves the powder coating we use at work (tube steel frames for electric trikes). You can actually fill in small scratches with a light wipe of acetone on a rag, so this might be helpful in removing powder coating from places you were not able to successfully mask. The only threaded areas on an A65 frame are where the footpeg studs go; you may want to leave the studs in the frame during coating. BTW, a 7/16" SAE (fine thread, I think) bolt will fit in the right side, but the left one is left-hand thread. The splines on the left stud are usually chewed up, so you may be replacing that one anyway.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Re: powder coating a BSA frame #16092
10/06/06 4:30 am
10/06/06 4:30 am
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,058
San Francisco
Redman Offline
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Redman  Offline
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Posts: 1,058
San Francisco
Some place over in Richmond. Some industrial name like Applied Coatings Inc. or some such. Google it. Cost about 250$ and that was frame/swing/a couple brackets. They have rubber plugs for races and spaces...and mask whetever area you want.
K


Life is short but very wide.
Re: powder coating a BSA frame #16093
10/07/06 1:02 am
10/07/06 1:02 am
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 149
Columbia, TN
F
flyingsquirrel Offline
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flyingsquirrel  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 149
Columbia, TN
Do not chemically strip. Had a place powder coat a frame that they dipped to remove the paint. About the time that the bike was almost all together the powder coat started coming off.had to take it all back down for free. Guy i use now burns the piaint off in a large oven and then bead blasts the frame. Never had a problem


196? BSA A65 Beater
1974 Silk-Scott
1929 Scott TT Replica
1960 Francis Barnett 150
1958 Scott Red Squirrel
2001 Derbi GPR
1979 Silk 700S
1961 Matchless G3L
Re: powder coating a BSA frame #16094
10/07/06 3:44 am
10/07/06 3:44 am

A
Anonymous
Unregistered
Anonymous
Unregistered
A


I agree - some chemical strips have to be neutralized, then flushed many times, and (since the drain contains cautics) all the outflow must be treated as hazmat - filtered, treated, and tanked away, can't go into the sewer.

Hmmm... let me think - how to increase profit at Strip-Iz-Us?
Don't flush it.

Result: residue ruins all future surface application.

Re: powder coating a BSA frame #16095
10/07/06 3:48 am
10/07/06 3:48 am
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
west central ohio where all be...
D
drp Offline
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drp  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 554
west central ohio where all be...
Sounds like someone forgot to rinse and neutralize after striping, very important steps or else the powder wasn't fully cured. I like the stripper because I do the blasting myself and wresting a stove enamelled featherbed frame in a blasting cabinet is a long & painful process. Even one that has been stripped is a pain. Them buggers are clumsy and heavy, the Pre OIF BSA & Triumph frames are lighter and easier to flip around.

Dave

Re: powder coating a BSA frame #16096
11/05/06 4:00 am
11/05/06 4:00 am
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,330
Medford, Oregon
Gary E Offline
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Gary E  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,330
Medford, Oregon
Most good shops will mask all threads and thread holes as well as the head bearing seats and anywhere else you request like the handle bar seats, side stand mount, or brake drum inner faces.

And if they know what there doing they will gas out the frame tubes, so liquids that may be in the tubes won't leak out from any welding pin holes during the baking process.


1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
Re: powder coating a BSA frame #16097
11/05/06 2:01 pm
11/05/06 2:01 pm
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 568
the dungeon, in N.W. Ohio
Mitch C. Offline
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Mitch C.  Offline
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 568
the dungeon, in N.W. Ohio
I had my bike's powder coating done locally by a company that does coatings for navistar, and they E-dipped the frame before coating. If the company does this make sure that you check for cracks and weld spots before, as the e-dip can get inside and when the powder coat cures in high temp, the moisture will come out , and finish will be dull not shiny... happened to me, however it happened in a spot that you can't see! I chemically stripped mine, but still had to blast the frame as it is hard to get out of the tiny areas, and it has to be perfect for the powder to adhere right. My friend just gave a light coating over the vin and it is still easy to read. I got a deal on mine...it only cost 80 bucks to do EVERYTHING! Turned out great! Have fun!


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