Clutch assembly for T110 pre unit Triumph shows a cupped washer (T1045) and tab washer (T1046)to be fitted when tightening the nut holding clutch centre in place. Tab washer shows 3 tabs to be bend over to prevent nut from comming loose. Now, with the washer in place, where does the tab washer secures itself, can it be left out and some locktite used instead. Thanks Barend
The tab washer tab being bent over a flat on the nut keeps the nut from slacking off. No do not leave it out. I guess you could use some medium loctite but probably not needed. That tab washer probably fills some needed space in the assembly.
Re: Pre unit clutch assembly#133115 01/18/085:31 pm01/18/085:31 pm
There were 3 tabs as you say. The 2 wider ones bend over the sides of the hex nut. The narrower of the 3 inserts into a small hole in the well of the clutch hub. That is, when it's not sheared off by the act of torquing the mainshaft nut !!
You do not need the lock tab, in fact I only use them to assure the correct stack-up distance on the nut, but I've assembled plenty of shafts without them. When I do use them, I never bend the tabs over.
It is universally agreed by professionals that cleaning the shaft and nut with lacquer thinner or equivalent solvent, and then applying blue #242 LocTite is vastly superior to any "holding power" the "lock tab" can offer. This information applies to the hex nuts on BOTH ends of the mainshaft.
Least there be some a disagreement on the universality of the use of LocTite, you need only check Tri-Cor catalogs from the mid-60's. There you'll see that Triumph Corporation offered LocTite for sale in their catalogs.
However, by far the larger issue is how to hold the shaft stationary while the correct torque is applied to the nut. You'll need to fab a clutch hub holding tool out of water pipe and an old driven steel clutch plate. By giving yourself an 18" handle on that tool, the hub and mainshaft can be held quite securely. These tools are also useful in installing new cush bumpers inside the hub. These tools were also offered in the Tri-Cor catalog, so you might wish to dig one up and take a look-see.
Additional Info Before you assemble, you might also wish to investigate modifications to the pre-unit clutch hub that involve removing the flange on the rear of the cush hub. This would necessitate adding an extra (junk) clutch plate to the "pack", but what it does is make the chain wheel run true when the clutch is engaged. In other words, it makes your clutch behave like a unit-construction model and reduces a lot of primary noise.
Don't hide 'em, Ride 'em !!
RF Whatley Cornelia, GA
"Shop Boy" at Rodi British Bikes
Re: Pre unit clutch assembly#133116 01/18/086:36 pm01/18/086:36 pm
Having read the above, and with due deference to the poster, who, as a rule, knows his stuff, I WOULD take issue with why one would NOT use the tab washer ?
It's a very simple, and extremely effective bit of engineering. In short, if applied correctly, it *works* ... full stop. Why change a solution that works ?
I have NEVER found the need to use locktite on the clutch of my many high mileage Trumpets, because the tab washer makes that completely pointless ?
I WILL however agree that they are a delicate animal, and if you over-torque the clutch center nut it WILL rip the thin tab and make the thing useless. I found this out by experience (anyone that has bought or read my book, Daisy's Diaries, will know this) because I did in fact suffer the rather embarresing situation of Daisy's clutch falling off in Wales (UK)
My own rule of thumb says, if there's a tab washer available, *use it* - there is NO downside, but NOT using it could produce a downside. By all means use lock-tite *as well* ...
Good judgment comes from experience, but the most memorable experiences tend to come from bad judgment!
Thanks for the replies, used lock tite as upon inspection, found that the small tab on the washer was missing, to wait for a replacement will be a couple of weeks as our local Triumph agent only stock new stuff. Barend