But shouldn't the crank come out of the bearing without the heat just like the left side. Looks like in the book the bearings are the same. The book says to heat the case if changing bearings but not to remove crank....sometimes this manual is not real clear. Please tell me more, thanks.
Originally posted by jtb: But shouldn't the crank come out of the bearing without the heat just like the left side.
Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't. That's why there's special tools and techniques.
Originally posted by jtb: Looks like in the book the bearings are the same.
They are not. If you were using a parts book in conjunction with your shop manual, as has been advised on every available occasion, then you'd know that.
Originally posted by jtb: The book says to heat the case if changing bearings but not to remove crank... sometimes this manual is not real clear.
If you are using a single shop manual to rebuild an engine, contrary to the advice of about 75% of this board's members, then you are in for quite a ride. You'll probably be doing the job twice with many expensive repair parts having to be bought twice.
In my book, the Triumph twin is one of the harder engines to rebuild properly. There are bigger engines and there are more expensive engines, but for shear amount of effort, time, tools, items to measure, pieces to inspect the Triumph and similar British twins require the most of everything. And that's being said by a person who's professionally worked on automobiles and 10 or 12 different brands of motorcycles.
Not to degrade you or your capability in any way, but I see flashing red lights just from the small bit you've already told us. May I suggest you seek the help of a local professional.
Respect what you've said but could "you" tell me what special tool is needed to help this ignorant cajun get the crank out of the right side. I do this because i enjoy the thril of riding by myself, not with a "professional" in a side car and doing the work myself if possible...that's why I'm asking you guys...sorry about the red lights in your eyes...Please keep it coming. Thanks
I recently went through the same process on my 1976. All board members gave similar advice... NO presses or hammers!!!!! One method suggested was to drop the case/crank assembly from a foot or so above a hardwood block, making sure the hit is square to the crank. No joy for me doing this... I warmed the whole case as described above and the thing literally fell out on it's own. Extra tight tolerance in our cases perhaps??? Pure cussed bad luck? Who knows, but I bet my suggestion works.
Originally posted by jtb: But shouldn't the crank come out of the bearing without the heat just like the left side. Looks like in the book the bearings are the same.
I had exactly the same problem recently ('78 model), and yes, the manuals tell you that the R/H bearing (inner race & rollers as the *R/H bearing is a roller the L/H is a ball*) should come out with the crankshaft, my own one certainly wouldn't, the bearing would turn quite easily, but the inner race and rollers would not slide out of position with the crankcase cold.
*Edit Sorry that's wrong! The LEFT-hand (drive-side) bearing is the roller and the RIGHT-hand one is the ball.
I just pulled it out a bit ago and the left hand main bearing that was still on the crank fell off in the oven, but the crank still will not budge from the right half.......put it back in for a little more. Hope this gets it. I'll let you know.
Originally posted by trumpetloon: One method suggested was to drop the case/crank assembly from a foot or so above a hardwood block, making sure the hit is square to the crank.
Wooden block or not, this method calls for protection of the crank end. The oil inlet journal is quite soft and is easily distorted. Wood chips also enter the end of the crank and can block the flow of oil to the rebuilt engine.
I agree RF. Mr. Healy suggested that avenue to me, said in as long as he has built these engines that method had never failed him. I tried and had no success...
Wood chips should not however present an issue as the sludge trap and all oilways will be thoroughly cleaned in later stages of reconditioning. I used lots of solvent, pipe cleaners and high pressure air. I am CERTAIN there is no FOD hiding in my crank.
If jtb has not managed to get his bearing to part with the case after about a 2 hour heat soak, what would you suggest as the next course of action?
Well fellows when I took it out yesterday it still wouldn't budge. Trying it again this morning (heat). Never did try the dropping thing, but did try rapping it with rubber hammer while hot...no luck. Am enjoying the forum & appreciate your help.
I have never done this and so cannot recommend the method, others of greater knowledge should be consulted before trying it. "Drill two 1/32" holes 180 deg apart through the crankcase from the drive side at points which will allow a pin punch to be used against the outer race of the bearing." You better get the whole issue hot and really know what you are doing before you attempt that, if you cock the bearing by beating on one side you are in deep ****e. Personally I would get the whole issue hot and then freeze the bearing with a Rothenberger pipe freeze aerosol, Loctite does a similar product with a penetrating oil incorporated.
Let it get a little hotter this time & had rigged a harmonic ballancer pulling tool to it with a bind on it. Pulled it out & when I turned it over the crank w/ bearing attached fell out. Now I have to get the bearing off. I guess tool #D3677 should work if it will fit between crank and bearing.