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#118255 - 06/17/07 4:39 pm removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,732
btour Online content
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btour  Online Content
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,732
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
Anyone have any tricks, quick way to do this? It is said to be very time consuming.


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
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#118256 - 06/17/07 9:10 pm Re: removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,694
trumpetloon Offline
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trumpetloon  Offline
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,694
georgia
I have found no quick way to remove the master cylinder... can't get the bloody bolts out for lack of clearance. Off with the rear wheel! mad


1974 TR5T
#118257 - 06/18/07 2:23 pm Re: removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 252
Pete J 77T140 Offline
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Pete J 77T140  Offline
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 252
Stow, MA
Hey,

Couple of things I remember.

Take shocks off and put wood blocks under rear tire so that wheel can be lifted and axle can be driven out clear of silencer. My silencers were not coming off at the header without a hacksaw!

Use a coat hanger wire with 2 looped ends and a screwdriver handle to pull the spring off the rear brake spindle. You sit behind the bike with your foot on the foot peg and pull the spring toward the back and to the side to get this off. Reverse procedure to put it back on

Search "pressure bleeder" here for instructions how to build one from a tank sprayer for about $30. Use this to flush the whole brake system with denatured alcohol before you start taking it apart. Otherwise a brake fluid spill on paint is almost unavoidable. The pressure bleeder will also make it much easier to bleed the back brake -which likes to trap air bubbles when bleeding with the brake pedal.

If you have to replace any part of the braking system, you may need to replace them all - everything needs to be surgically clean.

If you rebuild calipers use air pressure - not pliers to expel the pistons from the calipers. Put a big rubber cork in the open side after you expel the other one.

Bet you can't tell how many of the above suggestions were learned the hard way.

"Experience is the name we give to our mistakes"

Cheers,

Pete

#118258 - 06/18/07 3:55 pm Re: removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,732
btour Online content
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btour  Online Content
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,732
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
Hi Pete,

Thanks for all the great advice on the brakes!


I should have given the reason/circumstances behind the question. Here it is.

This is another friend of mine. This guy really knows his beans about building brit bikes. So, bit of real bad luck for him. 76 T140 clutch frozen and when in gear broke off large chunk of case. Right on the bearing housing too. So, he has to have it welded/rebuild the bike.


He mentioned to me, that taking that mc off the motor mount plate was real time consuming and he dreaded that part. I was hoping someone knew a trick, and I could pass that on to him, and score a few points. smile Maybe then I would get to watch the motor being rebuilt.

Also it has been mentioned on this forum that some late seventies bonnies were the best, and I know of a 78 for sale that needs work. But I do not like the idea of that master cylinder removal taking eight hours.


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
#118259 - 06/18/07 4:15 pm Re: removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,708
SBoyd Offline
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SBoyd  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,708
Virginia, USA
""76 T140 clutch frozen and when in gear broke off large chunk of case. Right on the bearing housing too."" btour

btour, i know this is off-topic, but could you please give more detail on this. Did someone try to jam the bike in gear with stuck clutch? or what..
Which side bearing housing broke?
thank you
email me if preferable


Stop the insanity.
#118260 - 06/18/07 4:25 pm Re: removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,732
btour Online content
BritBike Forum member
btour  Online Content
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,732
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
Hi, Sboyd,

Well, yes. popped into first with clutch frozen, we think. Might not have been frozen.

But, consolation thought is, and you can imagine how someone with so many years experience, and knowledge would feel:

That bike had needed tranny work because PO had ruined it with really bad speed shifting. Gears and all had been replaced, but there was most likely a crack/fracture in the case that would have only shown up with fluora. whatever.

I can't say for sure which side. We were trying to ignore the thing as much as possible, but I think it was the right side. Also broke a gear tooth.


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
#118261 - 06/18/07 4:30 pm Re: removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,732
btour Online content
BritBike Forum member
btour  Online Content
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,732
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
So there is a very good possibility that the fracture was there, and just chose that time to let go, which was much better than far from home. And that clutch was not frozen at all.


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
#118262 - 06/19/07 12:10 am Re: removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 398
highway Offline
BritBike Forum member
highway  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 398
hamilton on. can.
The barrel can be unthreaded from the bolt on bracket and linkage making the job far easier, because your not messing with the linkage.
Remove allen set screw
Remove brake fluid feed banjo from barrel
Remove the brake hose from the caliper
Unthread barrel
The rear wheel can stay stay on but may need to be shifted for barrel stud clearance.
Re install the rebuilt cylinder with BRAKE ASSEMBY GREASE where it engages the push rod
Be sure to adjust some free play in the linkage. cheers Rick

#118263 - 06/19/07 1:15 am Re: removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 178
JTsmks Offline
BritBike Forum member
JTsmks  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 178
Orange Park Florida
An old friend and brit bike mech once told me they put the T140 Master Cyl on the floor and built the bike around it. After removing mine twice I think he was on to something.


"All parts falling off this bike are of the finest British craftsmanship"
#118264 - 06/19/07 2:22 am Re: removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 201
66 Bonny Offline
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66 Bonny  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 201
NJ
About the same level of difficulty as replacing a heater core on a Series III XJ6. When you look at pictures of the assembly line you see a shell of a car and if you look real close, the heater core is in there. The English do have a sense of humor......

#118265 - 06/19/07 2:37 am Re: removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 178
JTsmks Offline
BritBike Forum member
JTsmks  Offline
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 178
Orange Park Florida
HeHeHe...funny you should say that..the heater core on my 87 Series III is holding still (KNOCKING ON WOOD!) and I'm not looking forward to the day it needs replaced.


"All parts falling off this bike are of the finest British craftsmanship"
#118266 - 06/19/07 4:08 am Re: removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,732
btour Online content
BritBike Forum member
btour  Online Content
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,732
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
Hi Rick,

Thanks. I will run that by him. I hope he appreciates it.

I do.


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
#118267 - 06/19/07 1:40 pm Re: removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 481
OriginalScott Online content
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OriginalScott  Online Content
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 481
NY
8 hours to remove the rear master on a T140 is insane. Maybe 2 hours. A couple of things:
1. The barrel is not that easy to get out of the housing (dissimilar metals and corrosion). I would take the entire master off as a unit.
2. How are you spilling brake fluid on paint? The resevoir should stay attached to the the housing and the brake line should be disconnected at the caliper or take the caliper off with the entire assembly. Put a rag under the caliper and you will be fine, just watch your tire.
3. Once off, replace the barrel with a stainless one. Costs more than just a rebuild kit but it ensures that you won't have to do this again in a year or two. Replace both lines. The lower line is about $20. Don't use fuel line for the upper line. Get the right line for it, maybe $15.
4. If the barrel gets stuck in the housing soak it in vinegar for a few days and use lots of heat. You may have to destroy the old barrel to get it off. Chuck the barrel in a vise and screw the housing to a piece of 2x4 for leverage. Add heat and it will come off.
Good Luck
Scott

#118268 - 06/19/07 3:23 pm Re: removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,732
btour Online content
BritBike Forum member
btour  Online Content
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,732
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
HI Scott, and thank you.

I should probably rephrase my question.

The engine has to come out of a 76 T140 in order to repair break in the gearbox. The master cylinder for brake is on the motor mount. Apparently it is quite a lengthy job to remove master cylinder. Anyone know a trick to make it easier to get it out of the way so that engine can be removed?

(Rick has one and sounds like it will work if not a lot of corrosion. ( might not be. only 8000 orginal miles on this bike). Scott's suggestion sounds good to avoid a problem in the future.)


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
#118269 - 06/19/07 3:28 pm Re: removing/replacing master/rear brake 76 T140  
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,732
btour Online content
BritBike Forum member
btour  Online Content
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,732
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
Hi Pete,

I used a a variation of your "spring puller" yesterday. I had to replace broken variable speed drive spring.

Thing was almost inch in diameter and eight inches long. I made a long loop with rope, but both feet in it (since my head and hands had to be under tractor to attach spring), and extended legs. Worked perfect.

Based on your idea. Thanks. smile


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.

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