OK - Before 'Tiger' says "stick a Concentric on there already", I'll give the mikuni ONE last go.
So - after cleaning the float bowl of the accumulated crap to stop petrol spewing out of the bell mouth, the throttle became sticky. So I took the tank off to get a better look. Stopped sticking. Tank on - no problems.
Restarted, "idling" about 3K rpm or so. Before this point, the bike would idle at an indicated 800rpm. The throttle slide moves smoothly up and down the bore of the carb with the twist grip, about a 10-14mm gap between the bottom of the bellmouth and the cutout on the slide.
So - convinced I need to take this thing apart - what does the accumulated and much appreciated knowlege of the group think??
There must be a small amount of play in the twist grip before it begins to lift the slide. Use the adjuster on the top of the carb to achieve this. Then, when you open and release the twist grip you must be able to hear the slide come to a stop on the idle screw. Don't start the bike without both of the above conditions being met. Also make certain that the cable runs smoothly from carb to grip, turn bars from lock to lock to make the slide does not lift while doing so. The Mikuni is one of the best motorcycle carburetors ever made. If you're having problems with it, don't blame the carb.
When people who should have known better cautioned me about the dangers of motorcycle racing, I always told them that a fear of death is nothing more than a fear of life in disguise.
Re: TR6 With Mikuni problems - newbie help!#110278 02/18/0712:36 am02/18/0712:36 am
Just want to say something about Mikunis. I have an old, rigid chopper (t120), and am running dual 26mm Mikunis. It WAS quite a chore to get them tuned. I BOUGHT the manual from SUDCO!!! I can not recommend enough how much that manual saved me, and how great a resource it was. Someone on this board recommended it... THANK YOU! Now, once I got them running well, they have NEVER hiccuped... and they run like striped-*** apes. GREAT carb, I kid you not.