I'm proud to say that I am one, of many, reasons Bill Getty left retail. Keith recommended Raber's for a part he did not have in stock. I ordered that part and a foot peg rubber and they got the rubber wrong. Fluke?
1968 T120R 1972 T120RV Any advice given is without a warranty expressed or implied.
As for replacement parts...we spent over 60k last year at Keith's shop so as a matter of self survival we are now stocking and selling replacement British M/C parts at our shop, It seems many people still prefer a "walk in shop" in southern California, We are now stocking parts from Coventry Spares, SRM, Rabers, JRC and several other places. We will always be at a loss for Keith's wisdom, not a day goes by that I don't wish Keith was still here. We were fortunate to inherit the services of Keith's loyal employee "Fuji" to help with the new parts venture to go along with our existing service shop.
Do not use stainless steel. It's actually too "soft" for what you need. Stainless is not known for its tensile strength. Ever see a stainless head bolt? Good old hardened steel (made in the USA preferred). Anyone with machining knowledge and some good tooling steel should be able to make you up a few.
This is an old post and probably sorted but, for the benefit of others, I have had problems over the years with cotter pins working loose over a period of time on my 1970 A65. There is also something abhorrent about the idea of hammering in a pin with the attendant risk of damage. My friend James has therefore crafted this exquisite precision cotter press...
Disagree! Hammering is abhorrent when there is a correct solution. I made many unsuccessful attempts at the hammering method. This works! The cotter pin has to be pressed home tight so that there is sufficient contact/pressure between the shaft and kickstart at the point opposite the pin.That is what makes the lever stick in the right position.
I have made my own stainless pins with 3/8 bar (think it was 303??? can't remember for sure) I made a poor job of making an OIF cotter pin slot work with a pre oif kick start lever, the only thing that wore was the shaft. Otherwise, I tend to fit the pin, and tap into position with a small hammer. Kick the bike over several times and hammer the cotter again... The kickstart movement helps it to settle, only ever tighten up the nut and not use the nut to pull the pin through. Never given me a moments grief with that method.
The method shown to me 40 years ago is to drift the pin in from the rear only... Then nip the nut... Drift pin again... Nip nut... Drift again... Nip nut. Keep drifting then nipping nut till there's no more movement of the cotter! Too often I see newbies fitting cotters by simply tightening the nut which ends up stripping the thread.