I changed the headlight shell on my 71 T120 to a 68/70 style so's I can fit an amp guage. Does the guage take a gasket between it and the shell, and is there an insulated bracket to retain it? The small tabs on the guage bezel don't seem like enough to keep it from shaking around. Thanks
1960 BSA A10 2007 Suzuki Bandit 1957 A10 (Used to be a Triumph here) 71 Norton Commando
Some of those amp gauges came with a small o-ring for the bezel, I haven't seen those for a while now. I usually put a small ring of clear RTV around the amp on the inside, it keeps it from buzzing in the shell, and keeps it relatively water tight.
Does the guage take a gasket between it and the shell,
. the original gauges had a rectangular-section rubber washer - the width of the bezel - between the bezel and the headlamp shell;
. I've never found these rectangular-section rubber washers as spares so I tend to measure the gauge body diameter just under the bezel and buy an 'O'-ring of slightly smaller i.d. (so it's slightly stretched by fitting around the body) - certainly in GB, most automotive parts shops have generic 'O'-ring kits, it's just a matter of finding one with the i.d. I want.
Originally Posted By: MikeG
is there an insulated bracket to retain it?
Again ime, original gauges (and the modern ones I have) have two (2BA?) studs protruding from the bottom of the gauge body. A 'U'-shaped bracket with two holes in the bottom horizontal of the 'U' fits over these studs and is then retained by either two nuts locking together on each stud or one nut on each stud bearing on a spring washer. The distance across the ends of the 'U' is larger than the maximum o.d. of the gauge, so these ends bear (in this case) on the underside of the headlamp shell. So doing up the nuts pulls the gauge down (on the rubber washer/'O'-ring between the gauge and the shell) while pushing the ends of the bracket against the headlamp shell. As you can hopefully tell, not much force is required on the nuts to clamp the gauge securely in the headlamp shell.