Well all good things end. I had my hornet tank refurbished, sealed with Caswells, repainted and ready to go. I was putting the roll pin back through the fuel cap and the neck of the tank when I noticed that the neck was a little askewed. Stopped working and saw that the neck had broken away from the main part of the tank, not too much, but enough to make me think I had ruined a big investment. I got the roll pin backed out and the neck was able to be pushed down until it was in about the correct spot. Now I have to repair this. I was thinking JB Weld around the neck where it had come loose or what. The paint job is perfection (done by a Corvette restoration guy) and don't want to ruin the tank. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Steve in Ohio
Bummer, Steve,...Had the identical problem some time ago with a Spit tank. Agonized over it and decided to use the universal cure, J.B... Has worked for 12 years - - no leak, no break. Just take pains to apply it rapidly to avoid sagging and drips, and as soon as possible flip the tank upside down and balance it on the filler neck on waxed paper. Better to have the glop where you can sculpture the excess in about an hour or two ( before it vitrifies). You will be pleased, and it is no harder than transplanting a kidney. Bon chance, Pokie
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Steve, Sorry for your troubles, especially after painting. I have used a marine epoxy called Marinetex (like JB Weld) to repair leaking steel tanks on a couple of bikes. One tank had many leaks due to pin holes from rust. Neither tank leaks to this day after the repairs. Fortunately I discovered the leaks before painting and I was able to lightly sandblast the affected areas to promote good adhesion and file and sand rough spots. I then treated the inside of the tank with a tank sealer recommended by Ed V. You can probably stuff a rag inside the tank to keep sand out and tape off areas that might get scuffed in the sand blasting process. I used a little $20 sand blaster i bought from Harbor Freight or one of those tool supply catalog houses.
Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 7,812Alex
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Joined: Sep 2002
Steve, JB weld works quite well on fiberglass IME. So, do you think it was just structural or did the resin get soft. I found that my fiberglass tanks needed twice the recommended amount of caswell since the interior surface is much rougher than a steel tank, although all three tanks I've done now were a bit larger than the hornet tank.
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I think it would be best if I could get the entire neck out of the tank, but don't know what would be the best approach since one side is still firmly attached. Anyone have any experience in removing a neck and cap without serious damage to the tank? thanks, Steve in Ohio
Well after a few days of thinking I was able to manipulate the tank neck so that I was able to get it all the way off the tank and now am in the process of getting it all cleaned up to reinstall. Very little damage to the paint, only effected the neck so the main tank was in tact. Now to reinstall and get things going again. Steve in Ohio