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#19701 - 01/15/07 6:31 pm B25 (1970, US model) air cleaner assembly  
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 15
winged wheel Offline
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winged wheel  Offline
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Fort Atkinson WI
I am unsure how to safely remove the air cleaner adaptor section from the air inlet side of the carb body/mixing chamber. It appears to be threaded onto the carb, but is quite tight and will not turn by hand. I tried to move it with a brass drift & small hammer, but got no movement & I'm reluctant to strike it too hard. Can anyone offer any tips? I guess removing the carb assembly and treating with penetrating oil might work. Thanks in advance.

Jeff

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#19702 - 01/15/07 7:40 pm Re: B25 (1970, US model) air cleaner assembly  
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 63
Steve in Ohio Offline
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Steve in Ohio  Offline
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Posts: 63
Central Ohio
Sometimes these things have been peened on the threads so they don't come loose you might have to look for this. Just a thought.
Steve in Ohio



'68 A65 Bitsa
#19703 - 01/15/07 10:23 pm Re: B25 (1970, US model) air cleaner assembly  
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trumpetloon Offline
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trumpetloon  Offline
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georgia
It may be reverse thread... try tapping the other way round.


1974 TR5T
#19704 - 01/15/07 11:41 pm Re: B25 (1970, US model) air cleaner assembly  
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hh Offline
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hh  Offline
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British Columbia
There's no way it's reverse thread. It may be Loctited, and is likely aluminum. Either way, heat will improve your chances. You're better off gripping it with something that doesn't apply too much radial force like pliers do. If you have chain vice grips, they might work best, or very curved jaw pliers with lots of contact area.


"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin
#19705 - 01/16/07 12:21 am Re: B25 (1970, US model) air cleaner assembly  
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winged wheel Offline
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winged wheel  Offline
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Fort Atkinson WI
HH

It is magnetic (not aluminum) & 5" in diameter. Maybe I'm using the wrong term, but it is the disk that remains on the carb after removal of the circumferential chrome perf piece, the air filter element, and the back/aft cover. I doubt if it has been off in the last 30 years -- nothing much else has had a wrench on it. May have to make a radial hacksaw or dremmel cut after removing the carb & then get a new air cleaner assembly. I don't want to crack or warp the mixing bowl. Carb is AMAL 928.

#19706 - 01/16/07 1:30 am Re: B25 (1970, US model) air cleaner assembly  
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Brian_Dallas_TX Offline
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Brian_Dallas_TX  Offline
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Dallas, TX
If you are going to rebuild the carb, you could try soaking it in mineral spirits or some such. I would take the carb off and try the heat first.


Brian
'64 B40T Enduro Star '49 AJS 18CS
'65 A65L/R '71 BMW R75/5
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#19707 - 01/16/07 3:25 am Re: B25 (1970, US model) air cleaner assembly  
Joined: Aug 2001
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hh Offline
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hh  Offline
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British Columbia
Ok, I misunderstood. I should have known from the bike model. It's the steel air filter housing. I'd still apply some heat (assuming the carb is off the bike and purged of fuel of course.) Soaking in penetrant couldn't hurt either.


"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin
#19708 - 01/16/07 3:56 am Re: B25 (1970, US model) air cleaner assembly  
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,401
D.Bachtel Online content
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D.Bachtel  Online Content
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SLO County, CA
I'm with HH on this one, drop it in some diesel and wait a bit. Give it a good rap with a mallet a couple of times a day to shock the petrochemical into the recesses. Be patient.

You're correct about which part is sacrificial if it comes to that, air cleaner backs (or fronts) are easy to find and cheaper than a good AMAL.

Don in Nipomo bigt


1956 Zundapp KS601EL
1960 Greeves Scottish/Hawkstone Velorex 560
1963 BSA Gold Star Spitfire
1964 Triumph T20SM
1965 BSA C15T
1966 BSA VE
1968 Bonham Tote Gote
1969 BSA VS
1970 BSA A65L (with a "Y")
1972 Husqvarna 450 WR
1986 Yamaha TT 225
1987 BMW K75C
#19709 - 01/24/07 12:14 am Re: B25 (1970, US model) air cleaner assembly  
Joined: Oct 2006
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winged wheel Offline
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winged wheel  Offline
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Posts: 15
Fort Atkinson WI
Tried all suggestions as well as ultrasonic tank soaking -- no luck. This thing is on forever unless I saw it off. I'm tempted to leave it, as it won't interfere with fitting a new kit to freshen up the carb, etc. Slide looks good; bore looks good with approx 0.002" clearance fit. If I make a radial cut, I'd have to proceed into the male threads of the carb body to split/spread the plate. Sigh ...


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