As I said earlier the head is not warped, there is an indent from the head gasket. But since you are curious, crush height on the pushrod tubes is set between .025"-.030".

small faces...itchycoo park

I have limited knowledge of these 'old V8s' but afaik they are throttle body injection [similar to what our bikes would have to go with]. Direct injection came much later. This method was inherently inefficient...dinosaur with a band aid! It was only done in desperation in a declining market and surging fuel prices. I would be amazed if there was any massive benefit from this. I think it was also a knee jeeerk mod to show that the American car industry [and the Australian/English one as well] - so lets say traditional - could match it with the modern offerings from Japan and Europe. It was always a stop gap until they caught up.
This was similar to the V8's that could switch to a 4 cylinder in cruise mode and the petrol motor V8's that had a diesel head slapped on them in cars like the Cadillac.

Again I say "You won't really get much advantage over carbies vs injection on a road going bike unless you add flat topped pistons and a 4 valve head and direct injection"....but note I didn't say NO advantage, just not enough to warrant the work needed.

Inversely, I wouldn't go to the trouble of installing carbies on a throttle body/inlet tract type injected motor.....again....nil advantage.

It's the premise now that you've realized that you were wrong and have gone back and invented the "North Indian", whatever the heck that is, and invented a premise that makes you feel better. But no harm done.

Lannis

You won't be able to use the pre OIF headbolts/ rockerboxes. The bolts will not clear the top tube with the motor bolted into the frame.
The OIF rockerboxes will work on the 67 head along with the 71 headbolts. Be prepared to fuss with oil leaks from the rockerbox / head interface. There's precious little meat between the 2 on the back of the rockerboxes

We took one down to Hall's Gap for you.

Kurt----like this I guess you meant ( see photo)!

But it IS a much better engine than the original, in all respects. I'd think it a pretty desirable upgrade.

Actually, what I had installed for those photos were the plate, forks and springs that are part of the ventilated case. However, the plate and forks are easy to swap so I will be doing careful measurements with the actual SCT2's components.

There's a bolt-type adjuster that sets the load on a spring and BSA suggests adjusting it such that one thread is left exposed.

The possibilities for making adjustments are less than might seem apparent at first. Gears A/B and G/H are fixed in their positions so once the end float is set there's nothing more to be done with them. The shifter forks lock C/E together and D/F together so each pair is forced to move in lock-step. Referring to the photographs in my previous post, you can see there is a small space between E and G in 3rd gear so a shim could be placed on the shaft to offset that fork a little to the right. However, if there were done, the dogs on C would then engage less with A when in 4th.

The cam plate is the one other place where there could be problems. If it were made incorrectly it might, say, shove a gear pair the correct distance one way in a given gear, but not far enough the other way in a different gear. I took a photo I'll use later, showing the differences between a 'normal' and a reversed cam plate, applied some Photoshop magic, and produced the composite photograph below.

The reversed plate (i.e. RRT2-type) is in green with its cam slots in red, and the Standard plate is overlayed on it at 50% transparency. Note that the slots match extremely well between these plates, which means the relative positions of the gear pairs would be the same. However, I haven't yet checked to be sure there are no issues with the SCT2's cam plate, such as the slots being identical but the notches for the detent being incorrect. All will be checked before it goes together, but I've had no garage time today and will have very little tomorrow..

I had to make my own bracket as well. Real pain to get in there. Poor design.

My 67 and 70 had seals on both tappet guide blocks. The above article doesn’t seem to address your question. You will have an oil leak between the block and cylinder if there is no seal in there.

Petaluma is very nice. Not too for from me. I couldn’t live in the city again.

DMadigan, pm sent.