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PieMan
PieMan
Dorset, England
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Joined: August 2005
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Active Threads | Active Posts | Unanswered Today | Since Yesterday | This Week
Triumph Bulletin Board
8 minutes ago
thnks to all posters
looks like i'll just have to continue shopping around
just as well U.K. shipping is cheapest as they hold much of the good stuff. cliff
8 171 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
1 hour ago
Distraction? It's called, "multitasking," draining the oil on one bike while putting new fuel injectors on another, all the while planning upgrades to the electrical systems on two more.
Then when the sun goes down, back in the house to search and order parts for the lot.
Welcome to the one-man shop, ......or retirement. laugh
62 2,182 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
1 hour ago
Originally Posted by kurt fischer
... also, as pointed out in another recent rim lock thread, better not to use the nut on the valve stem, so you can see if the tire is creeping on the rim and threatening to tear the stem out of the tube.

You suppose that maybe that tire wouldn't have crept round the rim enough to tear the tube if rim locks had been installed?
5 117 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
2 hours ago
I put a proper side stand on the T150, replacing the one PO broke trying to start it for me (he knocked $100 off the price for that.) Was a cheap 'chopper' stand anyway.
I also replaced all the return oil lines, to and from the oil cooler.
Gonna take a lot of kicking to prime that oil system.
462 90,309 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
2 hours ago
I am running a #3 slide, air valve was 2 turns out, jets and all replaceable parts are brand new from AMAL, needle was on 3rd notch. I lowered the needle to the 2nd notch and turned the air screw 1 1/2 turns out from seated. I fired the bike up, with it on the center stand the bike stumbles off of idle now but revs past smooth all the way up once it gets past the stumble. I didn't get to ride it as its pretty late, and tomorrow its calling for rain all day so wont get to do load testing until Friday at best.

It's been a while, but are there new slides available for the 689 carb? I havent looked in a few years but they were impossible to find back then. If not, would stock pea shooters work better for me? I just got these pipes cheap and they look cool, not that the peashooters don't look cool.
8 106 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
2 hours ago
Originally Posted by Irish Swede
The PRODUCTION engineers, who had to figure out how to BUILD the stuff, were the ones who REALLY knew what they were doing


I hear that!
Most every place I've worked there are engineers and supervisors who haven't a clue. But, there is always one shift leader on the shop floor who knows how things really work. He'll never be part of "management" but he could run the whole factory.
They do consult this guy when thinking about buying new equipment, though.
The engineers are the guys who try to automate running the machines when the biggest time consumption comes from setting up the machine to run properly. They're the guys who post fractional to decimal conversion tables on the machines when a good operator has these in his head. Maybe the engineers need them because it's not calculus?
8 227 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
2 hours ago
Originally Posted by gavin eisler
Oil feed system had air in it, the switch doesnt like that. How long between filling oil tank and start up? The tighter the pump clearances the longer it takes to fill/clear air . Gear pumps take a wee while to prime if running in air, this is not a good time for the bearings. Worst case scenario , big ends wiped, best case scenario , something else is loose.
drain oil , look for sparklies, particularly in the sump plate, if that looks clean, count yer blessings.

Hey Gavin, fill oil tank just before startup, pulled the plugs, kick over with key off for a good minute then got ready to fire it up, slow to start, gave it some starter fluid then it fired up. But oil light stayed on and throttle stuck, tapped the carb body to free slide motor making a racket turn off. Replaced the oil pressure relief valve, fixed carb throttle and fired it up again. Oil light went out, but still made a racket, put it in gear moved, it a bit, worked clutch, it was ok. checked oil flow back to tank kind of a fast dribble, shut it down. And here I sit with this great looking bike and the more I thing about racket noise, it sounds like starving for oil with no real tell tale sign of where the noise is coming from, will check the sump for gold tomorrow. How fast should the oil return flow be from the tube in the tank?
8 199 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
2 hours ago
Originally Posted by Kent Shaun
Tut tut and again tut, all this button pushing Lannis my lad, then you say....I don't have time for fettling.... shocked

A nice Wolf skin coat would go well with the Coon skin hat lad... wink

Size...??? Oh that'll be fat bastard I guess... grin


"All this button pushing"?

A mere six posts from me today, me laddio, and short ones they were, took about 2 minutes each, you can check 'em out, so that old wheeze about "too much time on the buttons" isn't going to work ...

Actually got quite a bit done today, the A10's throttle cable is sticking and doing funny things so worked on that a bit but I think it needs a new cable, and then found the front tire on the big Triumph was flat, it's got the original tire on it so this is my first time having the front wheel off, had to make a tool to fit the 17 mm hex on the end of the axle but got that done so the Two Hours went well, then went into town and got the Festiva inspected and got my hair cut and some grocery shopping done, then came home and picked a couple gallons of Roma tomatoes from the garden and cooked them down to make a nice Marinara Sauce for the fried eggplant I cooked up, picked a few melons, peppers, okra ... good eatin' around here this time of year with the garden coming in ...

Well, that's 5 minutes spent on THIS post so I better get to bed, after midnight here .... Off to the bike shop tomorrow for a tire and to test Fay and my new helmet-to-helmet communication thingies, they have Blue Teeth I hear, that's supposed to be good but I don't know ....

Lannis
12 328 Read More
The Competition Forum
3 hours ago
there's way too much fiddling on nitromethane. blending the fuel, starting on alcohol, and then trying to use up the nitro without hydraulic locking the motor. alp has mentioned at least once melting his pistons because he forgot to re-jet. in the end, it just doesn't interest me. bottles and nitro will let you go faster, sure, but if just going faster was the point i'd be in the market for a ZX-14 and not messing with old british twins.

but you might experiment with oxygenated fuel.
24 601 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
3 hours ago
The Boyer MKIII is very sensitive to low voltage. I've replaced a MKIII box with a MKIV with good results. Most of my bikes have Pazon Surefires which also tolerates lower voltages. Before you scrap your unit though you need to check the voltage supply at the white wire while putting a load on the system. Simply checking it with a voltmeter with no load doesn't tell you much. Procedure is explained here. See the section on checking for voltage drop, although the whole bit is worth going through.
http://vintagebikemagazine.com/technical-articles/boyer-trouble-shooting/
12 329 Read More
Members Bike Projects
4 hours ago
This stuff has been doing wonders for me.... Spray it on and let it sit , but keep it wet..... Mist Sprayer is good for that.... Then garden hose clean . Rust is gone with no scrubbing..... Unless its really bad then several applications and a little scrubbing will do the trick

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-c...o/removers-and-chemicals/rust-dissolver/
11 248 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
4 hours ago
...yes, connected a wire between the positive and the 49 terminal, then moving the handlebar switch either side, you have the signals working properly.

-alright, I put one meter cable on the 49 (white wires) and the other in a connector with a white wire in the headlamp. In all the scale of Ohms I obtained -1 except on 200M Ohms where I obtained 00.8. Then I put the multimeter in the "sound" symbol and bleeped with the same test.

I will take the road tomorrow early, so I will let the other possible test for later; but do not know what more to do anyway. Remove the tank and see if I found the white wire?

Thanks
11 248 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
5 hours ago
Thanks trev. I'll get something to you this afternoon.
3 116 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
5 hours ago
I used locttite 518 on crankcase halves and timing cover.
MAPS gaskets really seal well.
11 170 Read More
Ariel Forum
6 hours ago
A person doesn't have to time a magneto very often, but when they do they have to spend quite a while fussing with it. So, I took the time to make it easier on the Ariel in the future. With luck, I won't have to worry about retiming the magneto on the rally but, if I do, now it should be a lot faster.

The first photograph shows I found TDC with both valves closed and punched a dot near the top of the end of the camshaft that I then filled with white paint to make it easier to see (it looks yellowish in the photograph). I then installed the sprocket with one tooth pointing vertically, marked TDC on it in white as well as 40o BTDC in gold. All of this eliminates trying to figure out in a dark motel parking lot if the valves are open or not, which way the shaft rotates, and which is BTDC and which is ATDC. For those of you who are worried about the lack of a degree wheel, keep reading.

The next photograph shows that I set the magneto so the points were just opening and punched a line into the end of the shaft that I then filled with gold paint. The photograph also shows the adjustable sprocket I bought from someone in Australia (whose name escapes me at the moment) with the cap screws holding it in the center of the adjusting range. In this position the sprocket has ~30o of adjustment toward advanced or retarded. In the process described below the lines I engraved every 4o (engine) aren't needed.

The third photograph is the timing stick I showed previously that I've now modified to have scratch marks at 34o and 41o in addition to the ledges at 36.2o (7/16" BTDC) and 38.9 o (1/2" BTDC) corresponding to the two values given in Ariel literature. This allows me to directly see how far off I am if I slightly over- or under-shoot one of the ledges when rotating the engine, and decide whether that position is good enough to use.

I'll add here that I measured the total advance range of the magneto to be 53o engine. This explains why the engine starts so nicely when I have the lever set halfway since the timing is ~39o - 26.5o = ~12.5o.

With the above in mind, the procedure for timing is to set the engine so the sprocket is at the 40o mark. Then, set the magneto shaft so the line is vertical and install the sprocket with the teeth locked in the central position. Next, use the timing stick and rear wheel to tweak the engine to precisely the 39 o position. Finally, with the inductance meter connected across the points loosen the three cap screws and use a spanner on the magneto nut to controllably rotate the shaft to find where the points open. Lock the three screws and double-check the result by watching the inductance meter and timing stick as the engine is rotated using the rear wheel.

The "only" thing having marks on the two shafts does is make the process a lot faster, as well as eliminates the possibility of accidentally timing the engine ATDC or on the exhaust stroke. Not coincidentally, after timing the engine as above, and setting the magneto lever in the halfway position, it started on the first kick.

As a final note, I can "only" set the timing to within ~1o using the timing stick whereas I could do twice that good with a degree wheel. However, given that it's not clear whether the "correct" value for modern fuel is 36o, 39o , or some other value, accuracy greater than ~1o isn't called for.
1,428 188,449 Read More
HOT LINKS Forum
Yesterday at 11:57 PM
It might get the $11.5K asking price. Although TRWs are still relatively unknown, and haven't had a chance to get popular among people who are looking for "cool" motorcycles and pay big prices for them, someone who's "always wanted one" might be lurking .... !

Lannis
2 58 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
Yesterday at 11:44 PM
Originally Posted by RF Whatley
Originally Posted by wadeschields

[Linked Image]
Matchless gets the girl shocked


But, as the saying goes, "you get more nookie on a Suzuki !"

laughing
918 988,181 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
Yesterday at 11:19 PM
I have a later case engine # and I have original carb on my bike. 389 Amal.
My bike is a 1967 tr6c. Even my parts book list that carb.
8 316 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
Yesterday at 10:42 PM
[Linked Image]
295 112,017 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
Yesterday at 09:24 PM
Interesting. My frame is CD43312 seven frames after yours.
29 1,076 Read More
HOT LINKS Forum
Yesterday at 09:20 PM
works o art
2 376 Read More
The Competition Forum
Yesterday at 08:36 PM
foiled!

i wanted to take off the disc brake from the bike, and just rely on the back brake for the occasional use this machine makes of a brake. mostly for just stopping in the pits to refuel. the 70s TR7 front disc brake with the oriental master cylinder works great, but i don't need it and it just sticks out in the wind.

so i'm smart, and i say, i'll go buy a left side conical slider, and then i can just swap it in and not have to cut off the disc brake mount on the slider i have right now. easy. so i take it off

[Linked Image]

that will let me swap this ugly thing

[Linked Image]

for the 1971 unit (cheap on eBay) set up for a conical.

[Linked Image]

easy i say, they're the same except for the brake moints

[Linked Image]

except they're not . . .

[Linked Image]

nobody told me that the disc brake front end had a bigger axle than the conical. how was i to know? so i'll just pull the studs and run it that way. i'm planning on different wheels over the winter anyway, so i don't want to cut anything up. i may just ream out the 1971 fork leg bottom for the disc brake axle. dunno.

but it all goes into the good-ideas-that-didn't-work-out box for the moment.

1,163 658,307 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The FREE Private Buy-Sell BOARD
Yesterday at 08:20 PM
Originally Posted by KC in S.B.
I like it, but it certainly is a younger man's bike, and likely will not keep it very long.



[Linked Image]
6 339 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
Yesterday at 08:08 PM
Had them in a pair of 30mm vm's . I was down to 15 piolet jets and needle at top groove.
2 152 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The FREE Private Buy-Sell BOARD
Yesterday at 08:02 PM
I think so. We will see.
3 189 Read More
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