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Active Threads | Active Posts | Unanswered Today | Since Yesterday | This Week
Bsa gold star forum
4 minutes ago
Gordo, I do not know if you caught the effect of the plate found on the back of the tank. It shifts the tank 1/2" further to the right. I think that is where you said you were having issues. The 1951 Daytona bikes also had the BTH TT magneto and the 8" front brake. Lloyd L
15 215 Read More
Garage sale - The private buy & sell board
11 minutes ago
I am looking for an inner primary part number T1186 cast into the upper part on the casting. No cracks or damage please. I already have two. Lloyd L
0 2 Read More
Norton bulletin board
17 minutes ago
Just finished checking the piston ring gaps when fitted into the cylinder bores .... all of the ring gaps for the right side piston are .020", two compression and one oil control ring, the left side piston ring gaps are all .015" , two compression and one oil control ring. I measured each gap with the ring flush with the top gasket face, and then about one inch down into the bore.

None of the rings is marked as to orientation , i.e. Face up or Top, not sure what all of this means .... but new rings are being ordered and will be gapped ....009" to .012".
34 420 Read More
Bsa gold star forum
21 minutes ago
I made some progress on my jetting this morning. I found that turning the pilot mixture screw all the way in had no effect on the rpm. The last time I had that problem, coincidentally on a Gold Star but with a Monobloc, I found the float level was very low. So, although I checked it long ago, after lunch I'll check the float level again.

With the pilot screw all the way in I made another 8-mile run. Halfway through the run, when the engine was fully up to temperature, I stopped and watched the AFR as I adjusted the pilot screw. It got richer as I backed it out a half turn, and got leaner as I turned it back in, so all the way in was leaner than yesterday (but still not correct). Anyway, with the somewhat leaner pilot mixture the bike behaved better than yesterday. The mixture was still too rich but it never dropped below 10 where igniting it seems to be problematic.

The DocZ rollers are earning their keep. Bikes like rich mixtures to start but my Amal 1036 doesn't have a choke (the cap only has a hole for the throttle cable and thus far I haven't located the appropriate 1000-series cap). But, no choke is no problem with rollers. One problem I am having, though, is I'm way too used to the up-for-down shift pattern of my other Gold Stars. This one has rear sets, but not a reverse cam plate, so it has a Triumph-like up-for-up shift pattern. I have a reverse cam plate I could install but I'm not sufficiently motivated (or, the least bit motivated) to do so.
140 4,998 Read More
Triumph bulletin board
24 minutes ago
Can you tell if the current C3 is original or has been replaced ?

3 circles does sound original

Why can't you go by what John has said.

1. An interference fit on the crank means you fit a C3

2. A sliding fit means you fit a CN.

If the crank is giving you a tight sliding fit ie in between the 2 conditions then gently relieve with emery cloth to a sliding fit and go CN.
10 130 Read More
The competition forum
25 minutes ago
18" front wheel, 8" conical brake and clubman bars. It's got the right stuff.
Rules say stock carb. It's got a 32mm. Have to wonder if it matters when the port is 30mm?
Now just needs a rider to put it all together.
58 6,456 Read More
Bsa bulletin board
43 minutes ago
I guess it is the way the first statement was made: "the bike bottoms out on bumps". When I hear shocks are bottoming out I tend to thing one is using up the full length of travel in the shocks. If you had said the tire hits the fender I'd be thinking something different, like shock length, tire size, etc. Bottoming out shocks when racing (not tire into fender) is not a bad thing if it is not happening all the time. That means your springs will be smoothing out lots of the bumps better most of the time rather than being best for that big air landing. Of course I digress by saying that.
7 161 Read More
British motorcycles in general
45 minutes ago
Originally Posted by reverb
Quinten, yes, I will go to another town that there are more shops; possibly those old VW bugs or similar cars have them? This week is holidays here (Catholic days but all is closed, no matter if you are not religious...)

VWs are an exception ... I don't know about South America ... that many up north didn't use an external ballast .. but a ballast internal to the coil.
Look for anything toyota from 1972 to 74
Anything dodge/ Chrysler V8 engine up to 1995 .

you say: " place the resistor in the wiring position ... taken from the second coil .." but is not clearly if I disconnect the wiring between both coils or not.

Its easier to leave the existing "jumper-link" between the coils ... and use it .... for testing purposes... we are not making permanent changes yet .
The resistor is just a .... direct substitution ... into the low voltage wiring ... for one of the dual coils ... that's is .
Its a by-pass of one coil .
Instead of the load passing through... 2 dual coils ... it passes through the resistor and one dual coil ... or one dual coil and resistor.
The resistor can go before or after the coil ... in this series connection.
The by-passed coil , its spark wires and 2 spark plugs are now totally disabled ... so they can be left safely in place during testing .
when the low side voltage is removed ... the high side cannot be induced .
Im trying to minimize the changes made during testing ... because the results could be inconclusive .

Having never seen your wiring I'm assuming its
Standard negative ground ... but with dual plug coils .
The coils are a series connection. [Linked Image]
... the ignition module wiring is exactly the same for plus and minus ground

... but for negative ground the ignition-kill input is moved to and
... joins ( coil 2 ) the red wire
... and the white wire become a straight through Earth connection .

Other small differences from the diagram , you dual-coils are probably not marked for polarity... because they are not polarity sensitive .
( meaning you can ignore the plus and minus markings )

( negative Earth coil series connections )
Control box --- Black wire ---- ( dual coil 1 ) ... jumper wire ... ( dual coil 2 ) ------- 2 red wires ( 1 for control box and 1 from ignition- kill )

I think The jumper link wire , if original to harness ... is white with pink stripe ?

The Ballast resistor connects ... in place of ... either coil 1 ... or ... coil 2 ....

61 1,262 Read More
Bsa bulletin board
1 hour ago
So the issue is really about a sick B31 engine. I would think finding out what is wrong with your engine would be the first thing to do. It might be a simple fix and the repair could be a lot easier than trying swap to another engine. I have always thought that the alternator B31 is the best of the lot. You could upgrade the alternator to a later unit and even fit electronic ignition into the points housing.

7 277 Read More
Bsa bulletin board
2 hours ago
I have the emgos on my 68 A65 and so far they have been on for 4k miles they are too loud for me so I put 'slip in' baffles and that toned them down a bit
6 144 Read More
Triumph bulletin board
2 hours ago
The Triumph OIF is the easiest frame to add rearsets as it has the bolt-on engine plates. Just attach your rearset plate by the plate and engine bolts. I made a long plate to also hold the passenger pegs since with rearsets the two would be too close if left in the original location.
[Linked Image]
I used shift levers on both sides and modified the shift shaft to mount an arm on the inside to operate the transfer arm for the shifter and rear master cylinder. The plate makes for an easy mounting surface for the master.
The A65 OIF only has the foot peg and swingarm bolt hole so I think there you would have to use the rear peg mount to hold the plate in three places.
21 627 Read More
British motorcycles in general
3 hours ago
Thanks guys, looks like there's no easy way out. I'm just gonna have to buy a few extra plugs and plug check each circuit. Just thought someone who rides a tr6r had my magic numbers. I bought this project for 900 bucks, It's a Frankenbike for sure, but half the enjoyment is tinkering.
10 205 Read More
The triple forum
4 hours ago
Originally Posted by Mike Baker
it seems that 1100 or 700 cc oil is a huge amount to have slinging around in there. I've found that my 650's will find a place to leak if I fill to the recommended 500 cc. I back off to about 400 and have had no issues. Is it possible its just overfilled?

Your correct on both points Mike , A triples gearbox is basically same as a twins ; just minus the hole through the centre of the mainshaft for the clutch pushrod ..

Also my Rocket 3's "from memory" only run just under 1/2 litre of oil in the gearbox , Redline Heavy duty shockproof , Shows about 10mm on the plastic dipstick 'screwed in' .. any higher is just asking for trouble .. 2c

Ps , if oil is coming from out the clutch case weep hole? - it can only be coming from the 'engine' side of things not the gearbox , The so called oil seal behind the clutch hub centre doesn't hold back any gearbox oil , it's basically just a dust seal really & open to the atmosphere ,
5 146 Read More
Bsa bulletin board
7 hours ago
Originally Posted by Allan Gill
I think the inflated price is because of the Dunlop rim, people go mad for that. There is another one on eBay but everything looks to be powder coated black facepalm whilst a good buy it would have been useless for illustration purposes.

Do you have a link to that one? Would be just the ticket, my rims, hubs, brake plates, fork sliders etc. are all painted black you see.
11 353 Read More
Bsa bulletin board
8 hours ago

Originally Posted by koan58
That switch layout is fine for -ve ground. All it is doing when pressed is diverting the current from the coil(s) directly to ground, rather than having to go via the switched circuit within the box to the white wire ground.


Absent any such real thing as "ground" in DC electrics, there are only "negative" and "positive". Because negative is always 'supply' and positive is always 'return', the 'box' is always supplied by DC -ve (certainly in all the e.i. available for these old heaps), irrespective of whether the metal parts of the bike are connected to battery -ve or battery +ve (and the electronics in these e.i. 'boxes' don't work if connected between coil and battery +ve).

Originally Posted by koncretekid
my Bonneville bike with Negative ground.

... simply means the metal parts of Tom's bike can be a conductor between battery -ve and the -ve of any electrical component attached.

So the "N.O.kill switch" in Tom's diagram is between battery -ve and the coil. When closed, the switch simply connects battery -ve continuously to the coil LT windings. A coil only produces an HT spark when the circuit through the LT windings is broken so, as long the switch connects battery -ve to the coil's LT windings the coil won't produce an HT spark.

Originally Posted by koncretekid
said that shorting out the black wire to the coil was no different from leaving the key on with the motor not running.

While I'm guessing you mean Bransden Electronics ("Boyer" was a long-time Triumph dealer in the nearby London suburb of Bromley, Kent, although not around any more frown ), this also doesn't appear to make sense:-

. Coil supplied through the Black wire from the 'box', Boyer-Bransden 'boxes' for twins and singles turn off power to the coil after a few seconds if "the key [is left] on with the motor not running".

. If the 'box' is bypassed - by supplying the coil directly from battery -ve by closing the "N.O.kill switch" - it cannot be "no different from leaving the key on with the motor not running", because the 'box' cannot turn off the supply to the coil.

Depends whether it's believed turning off power to coils is important if "the key [is left] on with the motor not running". I've only once left an e.i. (a Rita) on overnight, didn't harm either battery, Rita or coils. So I've never believed the switch-off is necessary, certainly not after only a few seconds, it's certainly a pita when fault-finding and even Bransden don't include it in 'boxes' for triples.


24 631 Read More
Hot links forum
8 hours ago
Originally Posted by t ingermanson
that frame looks weird to me. could be just the perspective but the top tubes at the cross tube look kinked, as do the down tubes a few inches below the trouser gusset.

Has someone “easy-ridered” it with jacks?

the rust at the end of the gusset also looks suspect.

Could be the site of a welded repair. Mine cracked there.
4 151 Read More
British modified/specials
9 hours ago
Originally Posted by kommando
How did you go about making it smaller?

Turned it down on the lathe, it was a lot smaller than 35mm, nearer 31mm. Found it on ebay but that was 8 years ago.

Thanks, I've yet to see some that small but will keep an eye out
6 94 Read More
Members bike projects
9 hours ago
Originally Posted by Allan Gill
Do you have the piston dimensions John, bore and pin to crown height?

Hi Alan, the standard bore is 3.250" but this bore is supposed to be plus 0.040" so in theory should be 3.290". In reality it is ~ 3.286" at the top and bottom and ~3.281" in the middle. I have some light scoring so I am hoping it will hone to 3.290" and therefore stay at plus 0.040" without having to go to the next oversize.

The centre of the pin to crown height (of my existing piston) is 1.8125" or 1 13/16". The pin is 7/8" diameter.

When I get to phase two I was thinking about calling Ken De-Groome and seeing what he recommends. (in case you didnt know, he seems to the number one tuner of AMC bikes here in the UK).

I have seen reference online to getting a 12:1 piston from Russel Motors and getting Ken to machine the crown to lower it to 8.5:1 although there isn't mention of what pistons the 12:1 ones are.


83 3,381 Read More
Triumph bulletin board
10 hours ago
In the event of a loose fitting dowel I try to swedge it a little and I grind a 45 degree angle on the end that goes into the cover. Should the dowel get pumped out this will assure that the oil passage won’t get blocked. I must say I’ve never heard of something like that ever happening, but I’m sure it could.
4 169 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
11 hours ago
Originally Posted by reverb
...Ludwig, how he can keep a vehicle in a foreign country "forever"? Normally is only 3 months or 6 months...

Apparently it was no problem .
Maybe because he himself only stayed for 3 weeks ?
The bike was stored near Munich airport .
I will see him in 2 months .

[Linked Image]find a gas station close by
9 317 Read More
Triumph bulletin board
12 hours ago
Originally Posted by koan58
Is anyone in a position to compare an original piston with the SRM one?
I wonder if it is possible to use an original piston in the SRM housing.

I’m answer to your question a few posts ago, yes I can send a photo as I still have a piston on my work desk (I think) the body will be somewhere at home.

In answer to the second question, yes I can compare to a degree as I have the galled piston and a NOS one which I can strip to check, there might be minor differences because of the wear, also they are both for an A65.

Down side is you’ll have to wait at least 10 days as im about 3500 miles away from home as I type this.

Like Gavin, I like most of the products SRM sell, their pumps are really good, I use their plasma hardened valves also, chromolly pushrods and race valve springs and race cam (all but the cam is in my engine at the moment - but it’s a great item) it’s all good stuff!! But someone forgot basic engineering principles when they put a stainless piston into a stainless body..... 2 like materials will always gall - this was the problem with MK1 concentric with mazak bodies and slides.

..... now if SRM just used a stainless dome screwed onto a body and piston made of the original materials then it would be a nice piece of kit.
25 373 Read More
Triumph bulletin board
13 hours ago
That usually results in getting up at 3am, and putting it together correctly. !
Obviously the old grey cells are ticking over....

If the speedo drive is becoming solid to the hub, then your spacer inside the speedo drive out from the hub is insufficent to keep them far enough apart.
They should be seperated enough that the drive remains locked in position to the axle, but the wheel spinning is transmitted to the internals of the speedo drive.
4 67 Read More
Ajs & Matchless forum
13 hours ago
I too think it may be a dial face issue, possibly coupled with a speedo drive mismatch ?

The parts book for my 49 Ajay lists both 80mph and 120 mph chronometrics, as well as km/hr equivalants.
In later years there were also illuminated and non-illuminated, as well as trip and non-trip versions.
I think that gives at least 16 different varieties ?

And, I rather suspect this may be a magnetic rather than a chronometric ?
That number doesn't seem to connect with the known usual chronometrics.
And Indian sourced ones can say anything on the face, even if they are mostly all magnetic.
There are also car type ones, which are not so dissimilar and another kettle of fish.
5 66 Read More
Garage sale - The private buy & sell board
14 hours ago
Looking for a Commando roadster tank for my 75 MK111 & also an Interstate left hand side cover. Neither needs to be perfect but tank clean inside & Steel for both.
Thank's, Mike
0 35 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
16 hours ago
18 543 Read More
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