I was digging under my house several years back and found a bottle that read:

Genuine Indian Kickapoo Oil

I think 1880's?

Nothing like getting scammed in a moment of need. Kinda puts some modern day issues into perspective, IMO.

Anyone ever owned a Harley?

It took three days to thoroughly clean my restored '47 knucklehead for our classic and antique bike club's annual show.

When I finished, my hands looked like I'd run them through a meat grinder, they were so cut-up from all the rough, sharp edges on that bike.

I made a good guess. It's a nice survivor, and worth the price.

YES ..... a reasonable process to try out on the old beast ......

I did consider that condition with oil ring being stuck or broken but wasn't sure how that would square with the compression readings we got , and how it would account for oil residue showing up on the outside of the exhaust flange ?
I will let y'all know how this plays out.

' Uncle Funky ' , we're comin' for your Limey behind !

Any chance we could get this on the books for 2018.....I love the suspense, but I have beaucoup things going on and would love to reserve a weekend for this!

Cheers,

Steve

Just to be clear, I need a tool that breaks chain, not rivets master links, although it's fine if a tool does both. It seems like buying a chain breaker should be easy, but nothing is ever simple or fast. The problem to be solved is I want a chain breaker that is portable and that can deal with chain as large as the 530 X-ring and as small as the #43 for the magneto.

Narrowing things down to the Motion Pro 08-0467, its description says it is good for "most 520, 525 and 530 standard, O-ring and X-ring chains. There's no mention of smaller chain, like my 428 primary or #43 even though it comes with a 4 mm driver so it seems like it should work with 428 (4.5 mm pin), but definitely not with the #43 (3.6 mm). However, the same replacement 4 mm driver for their bench mounted "Jumbo" chain breaker is used in the 08-0467, and that Jumbo breaker also takes 3 mm and 2 mm drivers. Still, even if the 08-0467 takes smaller drivers, another issue is if the adjustment range is sufficient to accommodate a chain as narrow as the #43.

There's also the 08-0058 kit with 2, 3, and 4 mm drivers that "Will break chains from #35 to #630," although it is only "Recommended for light to medium-duty use" and it isn't clear from the part numbers of the replacement parts that the main body and other parts are the same as those of the 08-0467. Although I expect the 08-0467 supplemented with 3 mm and 2 mm drivers will handle everything, since time is not critical I've emailed questions to Motion Pro to find out before spending the ~$90 to buy it and the two extra drivers.

Thanks, that's what I thought.

I went back ans fiddled with it some more - here's what I found.-

The rear switch is only closed in the middle range of motion. All the way forward or all the way back is open. I adjusted the switch so pedal full down is in this middle range.

[/quote]IMHO this is a valuable enough bike to merit a new quality harness.[/quote]

I agree, especially if, as seems to be the consensus, the wiring currently on it is not standard. Is it likely that a new harness (if i buy one from TMS or LPW) will correspond with the colour coding shown in the genuine T160 manual? This is the only diagram I possess or know of.

Wow! Can`t beat that.

A true idiots guide.

Thank you Stuart

Thanks for your expertise folks!

@reverb: With internal or extarnal oil passages do you mean the drain pipes from the rocker boxes back to the pushrod tubes or something else ?
Yes i put compressed air throw the crankcase oil return pipe and the air comes out of the oil tank easy, you can even hear the ball open in the suction oil pump plunger.
For sure not when you just blow in it, then its total leak tight.

@NickL: I will try that on the old oil pump, to make shure that the new one dosen´t get demaged by my brute force..

best oily reguards
René

What, and eschew pedanticism?

All's well that ends well, as they say ..... !

Lannis

...hi Allan, in that first comment says that is a dual plugs head with 9:1 and the model. The timing is implied if not the bike do not perform right and I did not commented that the bike is not performing right...

Also the first question was that how do you guys obtain a bike that does not shut off when cold?