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Active Threads | Active Posts | Unanswered Today | Since Yesterday | This Week
The Competition Forum
16 seconds ago
The pistons on my bike looked worse that yours...I carefully removed the rings and keep them in order..Then wiped the pistons with a dry green scrubbie..Cleaned all the parts..reinstalled the rings in the same order...The bores had some scratches that more or less came out with a few strokes of a bottle brush hone..
What type/brand rings on your engine's pistons? I use the gas nitrided nodular iron rings that come with the MAP pistons..
1,039 580,769 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The FREE Private Buy-Sell BOARD
9 minutes ago
Maybe it is the way the auction is set up, I was thinking good luck with that with only one small picture and would have hit the back button until clicking on 'See Full Item Description went to the multiple Photo Bucket pictures.

See Full Item Description Link.
6 319 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The FREE Private Buy-Sell BOARD
20 minutes ago
Right click on the image, copy 'Copy Image Address.
Not always that straight forward but most of the time.

[Linked Image]
6 319 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
21 minutes ago
Kerosene or parts cleaning solvent should do the trick. My main concern would be the sludge trap and or, was any corrosion on sensitive surfaces and now will be ground into mating surfaces such as cam followers or Main bearing surfaces. But Mr Sludge trap would be my main area of worry. Almost certainly any oil seals and possible gaskets will spew forth, and Push rod tubes certainly, but it is what it is. Some racing engine builders will advise that if a motor is to be stored, Go in and back off all the springs and tag the motor. Long term stationary compression of springs will kill a spring as well as unnecessary tension on components. (IE: Valvetrain, clutch etc)

In the HD sportster and Buell community, one of the hazards of firing up a bike out of long term storage is the sensitive needles bearings on the 4 cams (Proud member-Quad Cam Bastards) And if you dont "Pickle" the motor *, you run the risk of rusty rollers in those needle bearings, which migrate into the oil pump and the whole timing chest and possible crank & rods are then trashed. (It happens enough that it IS a thing) Castrol R is sticky and hopefully your motor was pickled* as well to some extent.

My vote would be a careful and sympathetic mechanical going thru and renewing seals and gaskets along the way. Of course you run the risk of Shipwrights disease and end up with a full rebuild and 2 year saga, But otherwise is truly a roll of the dice.

When I buy an unknown vintage machine or project, I pay accordingly under the assumption it needs EVERYTHING, if it does not, then thats just a big bonus and benefit. There is of course a growing cult of "Unrestored", " All original", and already a dirty word "Patina" as well as non running display vehicles (Some with broken or empty internals) So, I can appreciate some of these, Its not universally popular.

* Pickling a motor has a variety of interpretations and applications but originated mostly in the aviation community for long storage or shipping, For example a long sea voyage can result in a engine being quite corroded upon arrival. Some dedicated products are made and one amusingly is called "Pickling juice" and can be sprayed on interior as well as exterior. Some merely fill up an engine to the very top along with a warning tag and use filtered used oil. Aircraft in Alaska have many challenges and there is specific instructions on how to Unpickle a acft or prep for flight. In extreme cold an engine can lock up so there is actually procedures of adding fuel to the oil. The Germans discovered this on the Eastern Front as well.
2 48 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
36 minutes ago
Check the email headers, particularly the list of mail servers it's been relayed through.

Apple mail and Yahoo mail show the originating email address as well as the more human-readable name, but Outlook generally doesn't.
It's usually rather obvious that the sending email account bears no resemblance to the organisation that it claims to come from.

Some scammers do a better job than others at faking the email account details, which is where the list of mail servers comes into play. It's a bit of a giveaway if the mail server at the start (just follow all the "received from" lines) of the chain doesn't look like it belongs to the organisation which claims to be sending the mail, and that's much harder to fake.
3 31 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
45 minutes ago
Thanks to Bill and 150v ............ I didn't mention it but the left side exhaust header was removed and the port inspected . Everything looked dry although there was a grayish , powdery looking coating overall - somewhat more than I would have expected in a tight well built motor.

If there was oil getting through or around the guide wouldn't it show as a wet residue on the guide or valve itself ; especially since the motor was only run under no load for short periods ?
Again I will note that the only wet oil residue was found on the outer diameter of the exhaust flange , as if to suggest that the oil was coming from an external source ..?
Head bolt torque will be checked next time around , but I would think that if that was an issue it would show on the compression check ?
I don't have any reason to believe that there was any performance work done on the head passages , but 150v 's troubleshooting tactic is slick and will be tested.

....... " but I'm cheap and like to save money by doing the easy and cheap things first " ------- right on brother ------- a great ' rule of thumb '
3 102 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
47 minutes ago
Originally Posted by OriginalScott
Originally Posted by Sluggo650PNW



PWK carbs are like Amal, Mikuni, Bing and others. The company makes a wide range of products, Seem a bit passive aggressive to try to insinuate the carbs being configured by British bike dealers is off a Honda minibike. Kind of similar to comparing a BSA .22 rifle to a .308, same manufacturer but not the same implement of destruction.

PWK answered a design brief and request for bid when others, including US and UK manufacturers would not step up. (Apparently they sell enough product already, dont need the business or Agro from economy conscious Brit bike consumers, aka cheap bastards.


Again these are not Keihin PWK carbs. Keihin manufactures PWK carbs in Japan and sells them for off road applications through dealers like Sudco. A Keihin PWK carb has the name KEIHIN on both sides of the carb and comes with Keihin stamped jets with a K on them. There is all kinds of information about fake Keihin PWK carbs if you search for it. PWK is a style of carb just like Concentric not a brand name.

The JRC labeled PWK carb is not made by Keihin. It is not like Amal, Mikuni, Bing and others. Those are established companies that produce carbs and jets to a specified standard. The JRC PWK is a copy of the Keihin PWK. Where is it made and by whom? This is the information I wanted to know before I made a decision to keep the JRC carb which worked well on my B50. Ultimately the origins and the epoxied flange made me choose something else, an Amal Premier Concentric.

Scott


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
You are correct, you CAN source all kinds of 2 stroke carbs on eBay for a pittance and likely for some sort of Minibike or ATV, leaf blower or who knows what, they ARE sized accordingly as well, But just like taking a 2 stroke Amal or Mikuni and trying to convert it to a BSA-Triumph-Norton application would be a exercise in frustration and expense for little reward.

There is a wide variety of vendors these days offering the JRC/PWK carbs and some are less than forthcoming of the source, which is JRC, but you can now order them from some vendors such as MikesXS which caters to the Yamaha twins crowd (Popular swap to replace the stock CV carbs with either Mikuni VMs or the JRC/PWK) or nice folks such as
"lowbrow customs". Some tuners also offered a "Optimized" kit version such as Jim Schmidt racing who caters to the Norton community.

But Bill Getty/JRC (A site sponsor here) Is the guy who got these rolling and manufactured and did so for very legitimate reasons and I think if you understand why, whether or not anyone uses them, we should appreciate vendors who take care of the vintage bike community,, or hence, we lose valuable resources like my friends at Rabers,,,

I doubt Bill & co will reveal THEIR vendors and why should they? All you need to know is that any reputable JRC dealer can assist you with any of your carb needs whether it is a Amal Premier (Or a vintage Amal) or a JRC/PKW or the long list of restoration and custom parts they carry and supply thru their dealer network. If you are unhappy with the PWK/JRC carb I am sorry to hear it, but hopefully you sold it on to another enthusiast to get another classic back on the road.

I know most of the major players in the vintage community and IMHO Bill Getty is one of the nicest, most helpful and ethical person you could ever hope to meet or do business with and a true asset I am proud to know. While they do not deal with the public, You can contact them for a list of dealers or sources in your area.
You can also download tuning info and variety of other info direct from their website. Running a business is a VERY hard endeavor, Running a British bike related business is even harder and more challenging, and until you have, most folks have no appreciation for what it takes. So, support your local Brit bike shop and show some love.

See: https://jrcengineering.com/portfolio-view/jrc-pwk-carb-instructions/

" JRC Superior carburetors are pre-jetted if the application is specified upon ordering. If no application was given the carbs are supplied with the factory jetting specs. Jetting is done for the stock motorcycle not taking into account any modifications that your bike may have. If you tell us that your bike have open pipes we can adjust the specs accordingly.

Check out our carb fitted to various applications. Click the links below:"
43 1,615 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
48 minutes ago
Originally Posted by ricochetrider
IF, for any reason, Paypal sends an email to a customer, they ALWAYS open the text body of the email by using that customer's full name. I've been a PayPal customer for ages, almost since they first came into being. If they need to contact you, they call you by name.


Yes, this.

And if you get an Email purporting to be from PayPal, even if it IS from PayPal .... delete the Email, then go directly to PayPal (don't use the link in the Email) with your browser and log in and see what's up (if anything).

I just realized that I'd been scammed today in a small way by a telemarketer. We get tons of these phone calls (even though we're on the "Do Not Call" list - that's just BS these days). Usually I just hang up the second I realize who it is. Today, I listened long enough for them to say "Press '3' if you want to be taken off our call list".

So I pressed '3' and hung up. Then I realized that what I DID was verify that there is someone at my phone number who will listen to a message and press a button on command like a trained rhesus monkey; so now my number goes on a "Gold List" of ones you REALLY want to solicit ..... !

Lannis
3 31 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
58 minutes ago
IF, for any reason, Paypal sends an email to a customer, they ALWAYS open the text body of the email by using that customer's full name. I've been a PayPal customer for ages, almost since they first came into being. If they need to contact you, they call you by name.
3 31 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
1 hour ago
Wondering if anyone has seen scams under the paypal heading. A few days ago, I received a notice of paypal suspension for my account and that I should supply more information to re activate my account. Today I received a message that something is wrong with my order for a seat for my KTM and that I need to contact them to get a full refund.

Trouble is, I don't have a paypal account, don't have a KTM, haven't ordered a seat..........and I'm thinking it's just another attempt to get me to answer and make contact just like all the other ones but I thought I'd ask in case someone else has experienced this sort of message from " Paypal "

Wilf
3 31 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The FREE Private Buy-Sell BOARD
1 hour ago
Yeah, I was scammed last year by a guy who "bought" my car with a check. Turned out to be bogus even though the bank initially cleared it. Managed to get the car back, but try selling a car with "Stolen Vehicle" on the title. It was a nightmare.

Crypto allows for instant payment with extremely low fees. Paypal robs you. As long as whoever buys it has money of some sort, I'm happy. As they say, cash is king I guess.

Thanks for the nice words about the bike. I really wanted to do something with it, but I don't have the time and can use the money for the mountains of medical bills I was just shocked to receive for a simple broken arm. Ugh. Long story.
2 56 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
1 hour ago
Originally Posted by koan58
"There is no circuit until something is turned on, whichever way round the battery is fitted."

In the case of most Brit bike 12V alternator systems this isn't correct. I don't know how a Ducati system is wired, but in your Trident's case, the battery -ve is permanently connected (usually via Brown/Blue) to the -ve rectifier terminal and zener, and the battery +ve is permanently connected via the ground system to the other ends of the rectifier and zener.
The only thing that stops the battery discharging through this circuit is the reverse bias of the 4 rectifier diodes and the zener.

When the battery is reversed, all these diodes are forward biased and effectively short the battery terminals (ignoring the small voltage drops across the diodes). The ignition switch is not relevant to this circuit.

If this is what happened (ignoring the mystery of the fuse not blowing) the entire large current would flow through the Brown/Blue between rectifier and battery, so I'd expect to see severe damage to this wire. The Brown/Blue from zener to rectifier would also be likely to suffer.

On the other side, there are probably several ground routes, involving various red wires, possibly the frame, and the heavy red cable. These will share the current according to their respective resistances. Indeed, the heavy cable should take by far the lion's share. Hence I would expect the damage to the red wires to be more than matched by damage to the Brown/Blue.

If the Brown/Blue is undamaged and only red wires have melted, I would suspect that this wasn't what happened.

On the other hand, if the battery was connected with correct polarity, but the heavy ground cable wasn't connected well (or at all), and the ordinary red wire system was connected to the battery +ve, if the ignition were switched on and the starter pressed the enormous starter current would find its return path to the battery via the small red wires. This would account for the damage being only to the red wires (if that is a fact) and the fuse not blowing.



What you're saying makes sense, thanks for explaining. I'm not great with electrical theory, so any concise, clear explanation like this is very welcome.

I reckon, judging by your words, that the scenario set out in your last paragraph must be what happened. As you say, it would account for only the red wires having melted. I can confirm that the brown/blue wire with the fuse holder looks unscathed. As do all other wires that aren't red.

What I;m wondering now is, if the cause of the melted red worse is as you suggest, what other damage might have been caused? Is this actually quite good news, in that the damage could be limited to the red wires, and if I replace these, the electrics ought to work?
27 441 Read More
BSA Gold Star Forum
1 hour ago
Originally Posted by Magnetoman
Originally Posted by Sluggo650PNW
(No disrespect to the pedantics who fettle the OEM stuff to optimum)
Originally Posted by NYBSAGUY
Magnetoman, who pedantically fettled the mag so that it starts and runs perfectly.
Webster's New Collegiate Dictionary: pedant. one who is unimaginative or who unduly emphasizes minutiae.

Sigh...


I always used pedantic in the context of those who obsess with minute details to the extreme (Often OCD which can be a blessing OR a curse) and that was my intent. However........
See: https://www.merriam-webster.com/words-at-play/didactic-vs-pedantic

" Didactic and pedantic: they're both connected to teaching, but teachers will likely object to being described with either one.

Didactic can have a neutral meaning of "designed or intended to teach people something," but often didactic is used when the lesson being taught is annoying or unwanted—such as an attempt to school people on what's proper or moral.

Describing a person as "didactic" is almost never a compliment; describing something written or made by a person usually isn't either. In educational settings, though, didactic can describe a kind of instruction that involves lectures and textbooks only, as opposed to laboratory or clinical work. Or it can be applied in technical contexts dealing with theories of teaching. It can also describe literature or art that is meant to instruct as well as to entertain and please, such as didactic poetry. These meanings do not carry negative connotations.

Pedantic is used more narrowly. It typically describes a particular kind of annoying person. You know the sort: the person who tends to correct small errors other people make and who pays way too much attention to minor details. Or the person who's an expert in some narrow, boring topic—and makes sure everyone else know the extent of that expertise.

Pedantic comes from the noun pedant, which originally wasn't a bad thing to be: a pedant was a household tutor or a schoolteacher. But the adjective pedantic seems to have been even from its 17th century beginnings something that not even a 17th century pedant would want to be. Pedant itself took on negative connotations soon after it was first used in the late 16th century, and it mostly keeps those negative connotations today. The "tutor" meaning is long gone; when pedant is not referring to someone who's pedantic, it refers to a teacher who highly values rules and precision.
---------------------------------------------------------
So, entirely depends on intent and where you source your material. I consider some of my family members and myself Penantic and the ones who work in Law enforcement I explained to the nieces and nephews that Pedantic defines them, But I meant it in a good way as they are thorough and obsessive to the extreme (As well as highly successful)
34 1,017 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The FREE Private Buy-Sell BOARD
1 hour ago
Getting started with the chore...........

https://santabarbara.craigslist.org/mpo/d/bsa-66-a65-frame-and-parts/6596256168.html

Of course you guys here can PM...........
0 11 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
1 hour ago
Originally Posted by koan58



HahHah! If Triumph were still at Meriden I'd phone their helpline and get someone to come out and fix my wiring!
27 441 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The FREE Private Buy-Sell BOARD
1 hour ago
Thats a nice looking machine, I am glad it did not got mauled and cut up into a cafe bike. Although I personally LOVE cafe bikes and customs, a nice stock-ish bike is to be appreciated.
Plenty of orphan bits out there to build customs with, no need to bodge a resto candidate. You might advertise it with the INOA of course as the INOA rally is coming soon in July and could be an option for someone flying in from overseas (it happens) or for procrastinators who are scrambling to get ready.

interesting you accept all that crypto stuff, still wondering how all that will pan out. Here in Oregon when I advertise bike projects on the local CL I sometimes get offers of "Hey Dude, I got 3 pounds of medical!" and ironically they have no idea of who I am or if I work for the DEA or IRS. (Maybe I should add in "Hello kids, I am Officer Stadanko") But thats why I NEVER put my phone number or address on my ads online and wont post until I verify who I am talking to. I dont want those wackos showing up at my home.

So, I dont recommend offers of cannabis, (If they mention shatter, Its basically Cannabis Crack distilled into blobs that look like epoxy) but it is interesting how our free market economy has evolved. GLWS, Lovely bike. I hope it finds a good adopter.
2 56 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
1 hour ago
my T120 was once flooded, filled with silty river water.

i drained out the crap and then flushed it with a full load of WD40. turned and turned it with the kickstarter to get the light oil spread through the system to push the water out. then filled with 20W50 and ran it for five minutes, drained, refilled, ran it again, drained, refilled, and i was good.

more pictures of your machine?
2 48 Read More
The Competition Forum
1 hour ago
okay, time to get serious. i'm almost done with the preparations!

[Linked Image]

the gearbox leak that troubled me at loring turned out to likely be due to the bolts backing off that held th einner gearbox on. there's a hole that needs helicoil, as well.

[Linked Image]

i had some problems with the machine staying in gear, but i'll shim up the spring a bit. the actual gear dogs on the transmission looked fine, just rounded over a bit right on the noses. i think my problem was just the very awkard shift linkage, which i'm going to simplify this time around.

[Linked Image]

i'm not planning on changing clearances for the cam. the bronze tappet blocks that i filed and shimmed up ought to be okay, using a copper base gasket. i give up some some compression and quench, but the extra plugs should help with that:

[Linked Image]

pistons look fine as well, light scoring from no air cleaners, but that's all:

[Linked Image]

i'll be changing the cam timing from 101.5/104 centerlines to around 104/107. should be okay, but i'll clay the pistons again to make sure. megacycle reccommends 103/105 to start out.

then all i have to do is put the pieces back together:

[Linked Image]

and put it in:

[Linked Image]
1,039 580,769 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
2 hours ago
So--this race bike that I bought late last year from VA--but had been imported from UK has a 1939 T100 motor in a 1956 Manx Norton frame and was obviously used for road racing in UK.
I now have it on the lift. The front brake and clutch are free but the throttle and rear brake are seized.
I guess from the normal use at the time ( it was probably racing in UK about 7 years before I was) that it used Castrol R in the motor.
The gear change lever was jammed against the gearbox (gear lever reversed) but I bent that back to shape OK and the gears seemed to select OK.
Put it into gear and tried to turn the back wheel. Firmly stuck.
Squirted a little WD-40 into each plug hole and in honor of its British heritage, went and had a cup of tea.
Came back to it a couple of hours later and tried again.
First try of rotating the back wheel--did I feel a bit of give?
Tried again with a bit more force and the engine turned over--probably for the first time in about 57 years!
OK--what oil to use?
Opened the central oil tank--dry and clean as a new pin.
Well--bound to be oil at the bottom of the engine I thought.
Got a wrench to take off the sump plate----but--no sump plate!
Also no gearbox drain plug.
Must have removed both to drain the oil prior to shipping from UK to US. and not replaced them.Put my finger up the sump opening and found a trace of oil on the crankshaft.
Rubbed it between my fingers---obviously castor oil.
So I now have some Morris castor oil on order from Texas and sump plate, filter and gaskets also on order (standard pre unit items).
Now I know the proper thing to do is to strip the engine down to clean off all the oil from all of the surfaces and then use new oil.
But--I want to take this bike to the Triumph National Rally in PA next month and I would dearly like to fire it up.
So I am thinking of putting in some flushing oil and turning the engine over for a while on my roller starter and then changing the oil for new castor oil before trying to start it in anger.
However flushing oil seems to have gone the way of Blockbuster video stores and I cant track any down.
Any suggestions?
All input gratefully received.
.
2 48 Read More
BSA Gold Star Forum
2 hours ago
That's a lovely looking bitsa - and it's important to have a good magneto!

I really like the riding position of the rigid/girder configuration and if the forks are well fettled the steering is great. I imagine the upstate NY roads aren't too bad for the most part but where I live (north Galway), you can find yourself going into orbit on the back roads if you're not careful! I think the upswept pipe probably originated from Armours. I no longer have this special. It's back to a pal - we have been swapping rigid BSAs back and forth since 1976. You can see here that the pipe is a close fit!

Gerry

[Linked Image]
34 1,017 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The FREE Private Buy-Sell BOARD
2 hours ago
I added the ebay link since I cant figure out how to post a pic here


https://www.ebay.com/itm/192547658207
6 319 Read More
BSA Gold Star Forum
2 hours ago
A pedant is what someone who is wrong calls someone who is right
34 1,017 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
2 hours ago
Welcome!

Enjoy the Site! If you look around a bit, you will probably find needed information, along with a ration of wonderful advice and the odd duck who has to correct everything....but that's VERY rare. The main wonder of it all is the discovery that there are other humans who glory in the same affliction and share the same devotion to ol' Brit Bangers.

So again---"Welcome"! Quite the collection you have and it will be neat to see the pictures.
7 258 Read More
BSA Gold Star Forum
3 hours ago
Originally Posted by Sluggo650PNW
(No disrespect to the pedantics who fettle the OEM stuff to optimum)
Originally Posted by NYBSAGUY
Magnetoman, who pedantically fettled the mag so that it starts and runs perfectly.
Webster's New Collegiate Dictionary: pedant. one who is unimaginative or who unduly emphasizes minutiae.

Sigh...
34 1,017 Read More
Events
3 hours ago
I hope to be there on the old Ajay as I work to make it more reliable
5 188 Read More
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