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Active Threads | Active Posts | Unanswered Today | Since Yesterday | This Week
Triumph Bulletin Board
49 minutes ago
Originally Posted by R Moulding

Sorry, the motor was apart a few years ago after I found after rebuilding it the sludge trap bung was leaking and under size causing it to obstruct the oil way. I rechecked the sludge tube then and fitted a proper fitting bung. I'm guessing 5 or 6000 miles since then.

Rod

That's good as its nice to know the sludge tube and crank had been done. On the last one i did the sludge had nearly filled the tube and it had then filled the space between the tube and crankshaft blocking the 2 outer oil holes on the throw side leaving only the 2 inner oil holes to lube the big ends and had caused the motor to run hot leading to partial piston seizure, the motor even sounded ok and ran real sweet haha.
12 105 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
1 hour ago
Some thoughts..
Any included oil burning will negatively impact fuel octane number.
30°C+ ambient temperatures would be thinning engine oil more than normal, therefore extra oil would be getting by rings and become included in the cylinder charge.
12 105 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
1 hour ago

Sorry, the motor was apart a few years ago after I found after rebuilding it the sludge trap bung was leaking and under size causing it to obstruct the oil way. I rechecked the sludge tube then and fitted a proper fitting bung. I'm guessing 5 or 6000 miles since then.

Rod
12 105 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
1 hour ago
Originally Posted by R Moulding

Pulled the tank and checked the gauze filters on the taps. Whilst not spotless they were not restricted, same for the gauze on the carb. Opened the the float bowl and once again nothing to write home to mother about. There is some loose debris floating around in the tank that I'll deal with.

Still unsure what could have suddenly changed but I'll knock the timing back a few degrees tomorrow.

Cheers
Rod

Hi Rod, what is the history of the engine as in my above post i mentioned oil feed could be contributing to overheating the motor and making it pink.
12 105 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
2 hours ago

Pulled the tank and checked the gauze filters on the taps. Whilst not spotless they were not restricted, same for the gauze on the carb. Opened the the float bowl and once again nothing to write home to mother about. There is some loose debris floating around in the tank that I'll deal with.

Still unsure what could have suddenly changed but I'll knock the timing back a few degrees tomorrow.

Cheers
Rod
12 105 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The FREE Private Buy-Sell BOARD
3 hours ago
OK, I'll bite... gotta ask why would you want a dated plate for a bike that wasn't made until 4 years later?
1 28 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
3 hours ago
I was thinking the same but the reamer is much to small. Perhaps it has been swapped out...

The end is to small (O.D.) to fit any I.D. bearing
2 70 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
4 hours ago
G'day and welcome

A '69 T'bolt, you could do a lot worse (2 x 69 Tbolts :laugh)

Seriously, a nice old bike once you get them sorted, plenty of help on here if you get stuck.
Plenty of other complete idiots about!
Manual and parts list are the first things, then some Whitworth/BSF spanners and sockets.
It's all downhill from there...........................................
1 35 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
4 hours ago
Hello forum.

I'm Tracey from Oklahoma. I just joined BritbBike and headed straight for the BSA forum. I've been lurking for a few days.

I'm excited to join the forum because I came home last week to find an old BSA in the back of my pickup! My wife stumbled across a 69 Thunderbolt with 5900 miles that has been stored, covered for 40 years, and got it for my Valentines present.

All the original parts are there except handlebar, replaced by stupid ape hangers, and seat hand rail, replaced by tall 70's sissy bar. There is fall over damage to Timing side cover, points, Rt foot peg, exhaust , and headlamp. And it's been asleep for 40 years.

With your help I plan to bring it back to life!

I guess I'm destined to ride Brit Bikes. I got my motorcycle license when I was 14 riding a Honda CB70. My first real motorcycle was a 75 Bonnie. Vibrated like hell but I loved the way that bike handled. Sold it to get a 74 Norton Commando. Mounting that vibrating beast on rubber mounts made all the difference. That bike was fun, but when kids came along the bike had to go.

Now my fourth is almost out of the nest, and a highly restorable BSA just plopped in my garage. What's a guy to do?

I'm not a mechanic, but fairly proficient DiY'er. I've never taken on a complete rebuild before, but I'm about to.

I'm going to order the service manual. I've already got the parts list and have started a spreadsheet of parts I know I'm going to need just do damage or age. Even started shopping prices.
I know I need to tear the engine down, clean, and reassemble with new gaskets. I plan to replace valve springs, cause they've been squoze for 40 years. Other wearables as well I'm sure.
I expect cylinder to be pitted where rings sat, so bore and new piston set and rings may be in order.
With <6K miles, I don't expect much wear in crank and transmission, but I might be wrong there.
Same with every system, brakes, forks, headset, swing arm, electrics.

So far I haven't done anything to the bike but unload it. Last weekend was spent cleaning out the garage to make space to work. This weekend I plan to build a work table to get it up to back saving level.

Other than that I plan to pour some marvel in the cylinders, spray all the fasteners w Wd40, and start taking it apart in a week or two.
1 35 Read More
Members Bike Projects
5 hours ago
The Morgan is lovely, but it needs a set of chrome wire wheels with knockoff hubs.
49 1,306 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
5 hours ago
Check the end float on the mainshaft, the small bearing on the timing side controls that, If it's just that, it's easier.
The big mainshaft bearing or the sleeve will give you radial play which you can feel by lifting the clutch with all assembled.
Are the plates you bought proper beezer 4 spring ones? I have known people file the tangs on 3 spring types to get them to fit,
that will make the clutch rattle. The 4 spring tangs are wider and a different shape.
There are also several different centre hubs (the part that fits on the mainshaft) although they are supposed to be the same
the flange thickness on a couple i had was different and i had to use different thrust washers to compensate.
Although it's a better clutch it has it's quirks.................
4 144 Read More
BSA Gold Star Forum
6 hours ago
Interesting. Looks to me like a single cylinder mag wasn't available and/or the builder had enough of the useless original strap mounting and the only flange-mount mag available was from a twin. I see a mag lever on the left clip-on, but the mag has no advance/retard fitting. The second plug is presumably to 'waste' the spark, in an effort to avoid damaging the mag.

Not a lot of engine breathing capability, from the looks of it - OEM early-style flapper in the timing cover and the once-fashionable tappet cover hose.

Personally, I couldn't abide the forward footpads with the clip-ons. I've never used the GT750 drum, though hear mixed reports about their actual effectiveness...I do know they are heavy. Seller says the brake is great...though hasn't ridden the bike! Norton forks?

Crank, as described, is unknown. Unless the timing cover has been modified internally, to take the DB/DBD type seal, there must (should!) be a quill - meaning the crank is either early (and turned down), CB, or (most likely) turned-down B33 - I say that, because of the large shaft/B33 case bearing issue.

The throttle cable over the tank would have to go! Carb extension is identical to the one on my Thruxton, though it would perhaps have been bored the extra 1/8" (Thruxton ran a 1 3/8 GP).

I agree that it's most likely a late 70's/early 80's build, based on the tyres and plastic MotoX number boards - common at the time.
4 109 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
6 hours ago
Rectifier (neg) should go directly to battery (neg), should not go via the ignition switch. If the rectifier is off the load side of the ignition switch, the engine will not quit when you turn the key off. This would also be true with the OE rectifier.

The ammeter should go off the load side of the ignition switch, in series with everything else (ignition, lights, etc.).

The only difference in harness wiring for the Boyer is that the wire that formerly went from the ignition switch to the coil(s) now goes to the ignition module.

In essence, as was stated above, neither the Tympanium nor the Boyer EI affects the wiring inside the headlamp shell, so a stock schematic for your module should apply.
8 98 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
6 hours ago

++1. !!
5 199 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
6 hours ago
Not to start an argument,.... But rim locks on a road bike will do a lot of good keeping the tire on the rim in case of a fast flat tire. Steel rims on the road are almost a sure way to go down. Not thinking of tire moving in the rim from torque, but from no air to hold it. Why I started using them.........
21 359 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
6 hours ago
Thanks for posting this good news!! It's nice to have some to see !
2 128 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
7 hours ago
I'm not telling anyone here how to do it, mind you ... I'm just saying why I do it the way I do it.

I'm very sure that people have ridden bikes for years with the tube rubbing against a nut on the inside of the rim that was never meant to be there, and they've been just fine, still here, still posting, not dead yet. And they may CONTINUE to do it, either because they thinks it's right, or because they've realized that it's wrong but they're going to be stubborn about it and do it anyway, and they STILL won't die from a blowout! And they can say "See, I was right!"

I've heard people say that you MUST change your hydraulic brake fluid every year on your bikes. Many others say that you MUST change it at least every three to five years, or it will corrode your hydraulic cylinders and your brakes will fail.

Imagine their horror if I were to tell them that I've never changed out the hydraulic fluid in the brakes of any bike I've ever owned ... and here I am still alive to write about it! Never had the brakes fail or stick or explode .... Now that I've said that, it doesn't sound very good, so I'll probably use the tubes and syringes I bought a year or two ago the last time my conscience bothered me about the subject, and go ahead and flush some new fluid into one of the simpler bikes, see how it does ....

Lannis
21 359 Read More
BSA Gold Star Forum
7 hours ago
Someone put much love and though into what they did. right or wrong. I like the carb extension as I have never seen that one. The front brake, forks and front fender all are post period correct and well though out. Hand made pipe and mega.... Head bolts are bolts.. Wheels are still steel and not shouldered alloy.. You cant fake that patina.. The second plug is unique and i don't quite understand but im sure someone did.. Bikes like this are the real deal and built for a purpose. I would not change a thing as that would change what the bike is. It is sad that the seller has lost its history as i bet it was a F'n fun one.....
4 109 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
7 hours ago
Well, that escalated quickly!

I did not expect such a response.


That all makes sense, Lannis. I have gone back and forth with which way to do it. I have always gone back to the way which hasn't caused me any problems... in this case the wrong way.

Admittedly my sample size is probably only 10-20 tires mounted, but none of them have given me any fits or punctured the tube. In any case, I said most people seemed to be on the "no nut on the inside" train so perhaps I will change my ways in the future.
21 359 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
7 hours ago
Follow up report: put in 2 1/2 cutaways ( 3 is stock). Now all the spitting and weak running off idle is gone, So , now I have richer cut aways and needles one position higher after rebuild. Motor is noticeably stronger
9 258 Read More
Members Bike Projects
7 hours ago
No pics tonight .... took apart the leaking, something's-wrong front fork leg from the Stelvio on the bench (spilling oil everywhere, I'd forgotten how much oil is in those big 50mm fork legs). I haven't figured out what's wrong yet, but have the manual in hand and will go through it step by step. Coming down with a cold that I caught from Fay, hope I get it over with quick while it's raining out .... !

Lannis
49 1,306 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The FREE Private Buy-Sell BOARD
7 hours ago
Looking for a Yellow 1956 CA License plate for my 1960 BSA. Thanks!
1 28 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
8 hours ago
I think it might be a line reamer for the plain RH main bearing fitted to some Triumphs.
2 70 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
8 hours ago

I was a little reluctant to play with the timing, no window in the primary so not so easy to do so accurately. I had forgotten about the little Pazon degree wheel, cheers Desco! Would still like to find a cause though since it's never been an issue before.

Dave, I sometimes use the same method for older cars but I like to have an idea of exactly what the timing is set at. Again I forgot about the degree wheel!

TT, you may well be onto something, I recently removed an old Petseal liner from this tank. I'll pull the taps and the carb gauze for a butchers.

Cheers
Rod
12 105 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
8 hours ago
I've seen them brazed in also. I believe LA Sleeve has replacement liners.


Bill B...
5 83 Read More
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