BritBike Forum logo
BritBike Sponsor BritBike Sponsor BritBike Sponsor
BritBike Sponsor

BritBike Sponsor

BritBike Sponsor
BritBike Sponsor BritBike Sponsor BritBike Sponsor
Jwood & co JRC Engineering dealers Jwood & co
Home | Sponsors, Newsletter | Regalia | Calendar | Bike Project | BritBike Museum | Spiders Cartoons, "OLD" BritBike Forum | DVD- Manuals & Parts books | BritBike Stickers & Decals
Upgrade to: Premium Membership | Premium Life Membership | Vendor Membership | Site Sponsor Membership
Member Spotlight
Solebury,Pennsylvania, USA
Posts: 248
Joined: March 2008
Show All Member Profiles 
Shout Box
Search eBay for motorcycle parts in following countries
Australia, Canada, France, Holland, Italy, United Kingdom, USA
Random Gallery photo
Who's Online Now
49 registered members (AML), 296 guests, and 365 spiders.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Newest Members
Juan Cisneros, Willie, JohnS, Micke, Speedi594
10338 Registered Users
Top Posters(30 Days)
Stuart 120
reverb 71
DavidP 70
Popular Topics(Views)
663,022 mail-order LSR
Forum Statistics
Most Online3,995
Feb 13th, 2017
Like on Facebook

Active Threads | Active Posts | Unanswered Today | Since Yesterday | This Week
Triumph Bulletin Board
3 minutes ago

Got a perfectly good non-QD hub on the bike. Then the idea occurred that QD hubs were kind of cool. Little bit of research shows that almost everything is readily available used, NOS or repop - except the hub itself.

And then I found a chap making "new" QD hubs.

Seems like a fairly complicated proposition; far as I can tell, would be nickel'n'dimed half to death on the specific spacers, axles, etc. etc. that arent' shared with the non-QD - and may not be interchangeable early/late either.

But I still think it's kind of cool. Not that I'm planning much ISDT-style puncture repair...

What say y'all?
0 1 Read More
The Triple Forum
14 minutes ago
Looks as if you multiply AUS$ by 0.73 to get US$.
So--cheaper than you thought!
9 75 Read More
Members Bike Projects
16 minutes ago
Finally got into the front end.. Here's a pic of everything that came with it.

Minus one setup with a bearing nut that's rusted on. It's currently soaking in Mystery Oil and waiting for proper removal tool to land today.

Also, minus the restrictor(s) that I don't (yet) know how to get out???

I've looked at a bunch of 60's parts books but I can't seem to find one that fits. Or am I just missing external stuff? There's no dampers, but there's metal stanchions. And the metal stopper plugs are ones that I haven't seen anywhere else or am able to find in any parts books.

Also made a mess of the wheel hub getting the bits out. Currently trying to learn how to get the bearing off of the spindle.. This part of the rebuild is testing my mettle. I know it's of utmost importance so I'm trying to figure the best way home to get this back in order with money smarts and safely.
53 1,573 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
29 minutes ago
Or the pilot jets are not blocked.Always suspect them firs.t they are the smallest holes and are the first to block if there is rubbish in your fuel. These are also what keep your motor running with a shut throttle , so if it needs blipped to keep it going they are out of whack.

The next steps are essential to get a clean running twin carb set up, monos or concs makes no difference , principles are the same,

Are your carbs synched correctly?, this means warming the engine completely with a decent run, at least 6 miles.
Fit a clamp to the balance pipe, if a clamp doesnt work , temporarily block the balance pipe by pulling one side and plugging the end of the pipe and the stub ( do this balance pipe stuff first with a cold motor , then set off), Remove one plug . and clip it to the head, start the motor on one , raise the idle a bit so its stable, then adjust idle mixture screw for max idle speed, lower idle with throttle stop to around 900 rpms, repeat same for other side.
Put both plugs in ,start up, idle will be too high now, drop each throttle stop screw an equal amount so idle is steady as desired,

Thats the idle set. This is the correct setting for your idle mix, not anywhere between one turn and two turns open but precisely set to give optimum running with a warmed up engine. Make a note of where the idle mix screws end up, mark the body to line up with the screw slot, screw in counting whole turns ( 360 degree is a whole turn ) and fractions of a turn, they should end up somewhere between 3/4 and 1 3/4 out. Reset to as tuned, once you know the setting, If they end up out of this range less than 3/4 means you need a bigger pilot jet, more than 1 3/4 means you need a smaller pilot jet.

Now synchronise the throttle cables ( motor OFF0 , look in the inlets , put a finger on one slide , watch the other slide, and with your 3rd hand slowly open the throttle, if one slide lags behind the other take up slack on the lagging side cable, rinse and repeat until happy. Alternatively fit a balancer across the balance pipe tappings for this part, results are similar , the balancer is maybe a bit more accurate.
Ride off with your new smooth , clean running motor.

I do all this at the side of a quiet road, well away from neighbors. The run home allows you to appreciate the improved running.
Tools needed , plug spanner, screwdriver for mixture screws.

Once cold . later Reconnect/ unclamp the balance pipe , ( the balance pipe helps accommodate slight variations in carb balance and is a good thing for a smoother easier starting bike)

If you dont have chokes fitted , you will need to tickle when cold, and the motor may take a mile or so to clean/warm up.
Once warm it should pick up cleanly with no fluffng after trailing the throttle on a downhill section ( for me , thats when I know things are right).

half of this depends on everything else/ timing/ etc being correct, the rest of it is down to the quality of your throttle cables, If you have to cut your own cable outers to get the right fitted length make extra sure the outer ends are ground square and there are no springy coils anywhere to mess with the synch. And dont grease the throttle drum,( I used to, big mistake, now it gets a thorough clean and light oil only.), Bicycle shops have very nice teflon lined outer, with inners to suit, I use the local pushbike shop for throttle cable bits, just buy the throttle barrel nipples/ferrules in., cycle inner cable comes with a nipple that will work at the carb ends.
20 440 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
30 minutes ago
I have a 1969 TLS front brake on my 1967 T120R. It is a significant improvement over the standard brake. I did not use the later axle. I just swapped brake plates on the 1967 wheel. Whether or not I had to use a spacer somewhere, I do not recall. Anyway it has worked well for a number of years.
8 211 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
54 minutes ago
Originally Posted by Blown Income
Does anyone have the TR6C specific wiring diagram available? Trying to get my restoration completed but none of the books I have show anything for the model specific wiring, only the TR6R and Bonneville version. I'm assuming there was some sort of add on or bulletin showing the wiring setup with the handle bar mounted kill button.



Triumph workshop manual "might" have it listed. 1969-1970 T100C / TR6 should be the same.

If you don't have a manual, download one here for free
1 23 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
59 minutes ago
Here is a place I have used.
1 22 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
1 hour ago
While strictly speaking Irish is correct we also have to recognize that some of these renumbering situations may have taken place many years ago and the guys who did them (and the guy they may have stolen the bike from) are quite possibly dead.
Equally the "crime" may by now have exceeded the Statute of Limitations.
So it seems to me that we should accept these things as they are and look on the positive side.
If a guy owns this bike, has a title, however procured, which matches the number on the bike then let him go ahead and enjoy it. If and when he comes to sell it then the strange numbers will mean that he will not get top dollar for it.
But there again he probably did not pay top dollar for it so these things have a way of balancing each other out.
Just my two cents worth of course.
13 269 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
1 hour ago
Originally Posted by Hillbilly bike
. . .If the intake cam timing is retarded and gets moved to 100-102 intake lobe centers... that alone will make more cylinder pressure...and make the engine more likely to detonate on mid grade fuel..

what's it got in there now? intake and exhaust timing?
5 156 Read More
The Competition Forum
2 hours ago
Originally Posted by kevin roberts

got another good deal, too, but haven't figured out what to do with it yet:

[Linked Image]

That's for cleaning out a blocked exhaust port ....
1 39 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
3 hours ago
EBay are gangsters in their economic tactics.

A good competitor is needed.
25 643 Read More
Ariel Forum
3 hours ago
Regarding your Instagram account, does this mean that you are not 'the' Charles Falco, just 'a' Charles Falco?

I'll be at the start. I'll introduce myself as Gunner (albeit with an Irish accent)
1,464 193,179 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
3 hours ago
Vapor lock is also often a problem with dual-carb Triumph 500 "Daytonas."
There isn't enough room between the stub manifolds and the carbs for a thicker insulator spacer.
When parked the heat apparently boils the float bowls dry.

I have learned to "tickle" the carbs to re-fill the float bowls every time I re-start the bike, even when "hot."

Maybe you have room to fit thicker insulator spacers.
Otherwise, join the club.
1 63 Read More
3 hours ago
"1970 650 motor," OK, but for WHAT?

Clarity is needed.
1 45 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
3 hours ago
Working on a 59 t20ca, I need to know what it uses for a rotor and stator.

The mainshaft is much smaller in diameter. Does it take a smaller rotor, or is there a sleve to make up the diff?

Anyone know what the outter diameter would be and most importantly, where can I get one of each?

0 19 Read More
The Triple Forum
5 hours ago
26 802 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
5 hours ago
Originally Posted by wadeschields
Did you see Karl and Julie... They live there right??

They're up in Cheshire; close enough to Birkenhead and Liverpool that we sometimes wonder if he might not be an escaped (and reformed) Scouser ..... !

11 268 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
6 hours ago
I guess that my friend Kurt may have been referring to me.
I certainly use soda blasting for cleaning cases etc in a restoration.
Two reasons:
--- it leaves no residue as the soda is water soluble and after blasting I wash thoroughly in hot water (when my wife is out shopping of course!).
--- you can do it yourself and be very particular and take your time--in a way that a commercial undertaking cannot--time for them is money--time for us is the satisfaction of a good job done.

I use the HF system that Kurt mentioned.
From memory they offer two sizes--I have the larger of the two.
And of course you need a compressor to power it.
My compressor is quite small but I have connected to its reservoir an extra reservoir (also from HF) which increases the air storage capacity.
I cannot soda blast continuously-- I have to blast then wait for the compressor to "catch up".
This would probably be a big problem if blasting large areas such as a car body panel.
But our requirements are related to quite small parts and blasting a small part and then putting it down and sorting out the next part to blast gives time for the compressor to "recover".

As Kurt also mentions I do my blasting in the road outside my house-- normally in the daytime in the week when most of my neighbors are at work (I am retired).
The local cops come around sometimes but they know me as "the crazy Englishman with the motorcycles" and just drive on.
BTW--it makes one hell of a mess but I just hose the residue down afterwards with a garden hose into the gutter.
The soda is biodegradable so no problem there.
8 215 Read More
The Triple Forum
7 hours ago
The local Chinese eatery has chop sticks. They come mated together. You have to break then apart to use them. One end has a nice rectangular shape. I recently used that rectangular shape to sync the carbs on my t150. I slid it down the intake side of the carb in line with the needle. Adjusted by moving the nut on the top of the gantry. Kinda like adjusting the tappets!! Worked very well.
6 113 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
8 hours ago
Anna is doing well this summer - she has her good days and bad days.

Here is a short clip of her with her younger sister Ella.

This coming weekend is the Amanda Riley Foundation Benefit Gala.

You may remember that the Amanda Riley Foundation supports the families of children with cancer. They have helped the Mott family since day 1.

This year, Anna will be one of the featured children in a video presentation.

Here is a video from a few years ago.

I am looking forward to it!

God Bless Anna Mott
874 1,009,219 Read More
Members Bike Projects
10 hours ago
"what happens to all the foot less Neats ? "

Butcher meat."Neat" is an old word for cattle. Neatsfoot oil , still my favourite leather reviver.
15 455 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
12 hours ago
Very informative guys...thanks for your time.
16 384 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
12 hours ago
Mine's in the second notch - the top notch made it too lean.

I went to the effort of getting the 106T pilot jet and 389/110 centre block with the angled brass tube - which seemed to make very little difference, compared to lifting the needle.
14 252 Read More
BSA Gold Star Forum
13 hours ago
Great Don, thank you very much!
22 1,602 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
15 hours ago
So far so good. I started the bike today. Didn't ride it, but the way it revs I'd say the #3 slides are correct.
I need to take it down the road to see if the mains are correct and see how it idles once warm.
But it started on the second kick and the cold start came off after maybe 20 seconds without killing it.
4 309 Read More
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3

Home | Sponsors | Newsletter | Regalia | Calendar | Bike Project | BritBike Museum | Spiders Cartoons | "OLD" BritBike Forum | DVD- Manuals & Parts books | BritBike Stickers & Decals
Upgrade to: Premium Membership | Premium Life Membership | Vendor Membership | Site Sponsor Membership
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software