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maylar
maylar
Connecticut
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Active Threads | Active Posts | Unanswered Today | Since Yesterday | This Week
HOT LINKS Forum
1 minute ago
Not difficult to get a title in fact quite easy.

Hint: just be prepared to pay tax of 6% of the NADA guides fair value price.*


*The folks who knows what that means will knows what that means. smile
18 611 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
1 hour ago
Hi KC, After you get the 7/8 lever installed let us know how the effort is.

Do you know what brand cable you are using?
Don
57 1,427 Read More
BSA Gold Star Forum
1 hour ago
Good cams and gearbox ratios for a tourer...only improvement might be the 5 speed Nova 'wide ratio' set - closes that yawning gap between 2nd and 3rd without a tall bottom or minimal gap between 3rd and top.

If you are in doubt about the tank filter and are planning regular oil changes/care when opening the tank cap, you should be fine. I probably have a less pretty OEM oil tank drain/filter than the one you have, if you want it - it's in the UK (Lincoln), so could post it off to you when I'm next there (prob Easter). PM me if you are interested.
26 991 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
1 hour ago
...I never ever put my motorcycle so near the rear of a car. Plenty of bad experiences.
6 184 Read More
The Competition Forum
2 hours ago

Hi Charlie and Triton Thrasher,
I just spent an hour writing a really well thought out response to both of you and blew it all away with a keystroke... So I will say I'm not going to do a pressurized rocker feed, but I am going to do the oil pressure relief valve external bypass to keep that oil out of the sump. Thank you both for the great advice.
I have spent this months money on tooling up, a nice granite surface plate, micrometers, dial indicators and snap gauges that actually work. I did spend some money on the bike and sorted out the cockpit.

[Linked Image]

Forged AMAL competition levers with covers (Arreche, OEM Bultaco levers), A real Gunner Gasser throttle, Honda "CR" kill switch, OURY soft compound grips, and Renthal "Desert Vintage" bars.

: Mike
10 401 Read More
HOT LINKS Forum
2 hours ago
Looks like a 56 frame and a 52 motor ... Nice bike though.... Id buy it ...
1 23 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
3 hours ago
All the gear all the time !!!
[Linked Image]



I think thats a record for me .. 108 images in just a few minutes !! shocked
899 827,912 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
3 hours ago
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]
293 81,047 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
4 hours ago



I just bought a Johnny Horton album last summer and I had no idea he had 40 plus songs exactly like that one.... That was his style I guess .. Did he do anything else.... I knew a couple of the songs but not the rest.

Good stuff !!


Originally Posted by Kent Shaun
laughing clap Well done Lannis lad, you reminded me of Wade and his RED PANTS yarn... laughing facepalm

See we does love you lot... bigt


Red Pants !! I know nuffink .... NUFFINK!!!
10 297 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
4 hours ago
The Korean war 1950-1953 created a shortage of chrome metal
Thus the 51 -54 models had limited chrome and most plain panted tanks. or tanks with cream or silver side panels.
Thus in the aftermath excessive chrome became some thing of a status symbol
Australia was not as badly effected as we had locally available chrome
Your bike is 60 years old and if it spent many of those years in QLD there is a better than average chance that a few of the parts might just have suffered from rust damage and been replaced.
In the 70's you could not give away B 31's so they fell into the hands of youth who also could very well have slapped some lippy on their pig.
Damaged chrome is very expensive to repair so damaged tanks were oft fully painted, oft when the bike was owned by the afore mentiioned impoverish youth ( wealthy youth would have bought a K1 or Z1 or even H1 )

I ride a 54 WD M20.
The previous owner was the 2nd one and did nothing to change the appearence of the bike.
It has a chromed tank, chromed rims, chromed spokes, chromed headlamp rim , chromed girder plates , chromed levers ( hand & foot ) & chromed engine plates, all very much wrong for a WM20.
This was done in the 40's by the original owner.
We forget that people in the day customised their bikes to suit themselves & make their bike look different from all the others.
What would be strange would be to find a 100% catalogue correct 60 year old bike.

It is only in the past 20 or so years it has become a crime punishable by death to make any cosmetic changes to an old BSA.

Also BSA used different finishes in different marks.
The USA had a love affair with chrome ( HD owners still do ) so anythig that could fit in a chroming tank got chromed.
In general USA models had more chrome than the home ( UK ) variations.
As we are the most Americanized country in the world we also Chromed everythig till EPA regulations pushed the cost of chroming to the moon.
1 32 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
4 hours ago
Great diagram John. I've known that that's "kind of" how it works, but I've never actually traced the flow like that.

Just in case it's not by now blatantly obvious, would someone confirm my claim that it makes no difference which way you connect the stator leads?
70 1,637 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
4 hours ago
Originally Posted by gavin eisler
plumbers PTFE tape is good for thread seal.


PTFE String is even better
And coated with a little grease is better still as the holders won't rust onto the leg.
8 147 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
4 hours ago
Jody, at http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/, has a lot of useful information on Tig welding. Aluminum and other metals.

JR
5 104 Read More
Members Bike Projects
4 hours ago
Well, the grandkids went home last night .... today was cleaning up, doing my 2017 taxes, and Fay and I going to see our financial adviser (you retirees know who I mean, I hope!) for our annual review, which came out pretty good with only a few changes in plans. We have only about a 30% exposure to the stock market, which means that we did pretty good but not as well as the market recently. ON THE OTHER HAND, when the inevitable correction comes ... we'll still be in good shape.

Shop time tonight was spent on my Ryobi backpack leaf blower (broken throttle linkage, and that with only 5 hours on the silly thing). I knew I should have spent an extra $150 and bought a Stihl or Echo. Throttle pieces on order.

[Linked Image]

The rest of the time was spent poring over Dave Richardson's "Guzziology" book, the definitive Bible on Moto Guzzi repair. Just because I've pulled the transmission from a Tonti-framed Guzzi doesn't mean I know what to do with it now that I've got it, so I'm checking to see what I need to do. I've found that I need to replace two seals and the shift-return spring while I've got it in my hands, and I've got to figure out how to do that without springs and things flying all over the shop when it opens .....

[Linked Image]

More anon ....

Lannis

39 919 Read More
Members Bike Projects
4 hours ago
Looks fabulous, but never say never!
19 3,125 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
4 hours ago
Originally Posted by Tiger Dale
Thanks Mark. I,m sorry for the confusion, I have owned BritBikes in the past and for the past 10 years my everyday rider is a '72 TR-6R. I have fettled with many BritBikes but this is the 1st BSA. Will keep you all informed.

Any idea of value for this bike?

TIA,

TD


Oh... yes, you did say "First BSA". Ok then, you know about Amal carbs (but maybe not Monoblocs) and Lucas electrics. Can't answer your question about value because I'm neither a buyer, a seller, nor a collector. (Dollar value is only relevant if you plan on selling it.) If you do plan on selling it, you'll profit most by selling it as is. That is, if you rebuild and/or restore it, you'll never recoup what you've put into it.


Originally Posted by gavin eisler
"with 3,558 original miles!" , big pinch of salt needed, and quite a few other non original miles as well, enough time/miles to wear out the OEM front tyre, remount the coils , get the headers loose in the heads and add touring accessories.


Good point, especially regarding the front tire - looks like there's some wear on that one too. Coils moved, throttle cables replaced, etc. But Gavin, how can you tell the header pipes are loose in the head? ;-)
12 342 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
5 hours ago
I have an early A50 AAU that was removed for a Boyer. Looking at the back side, it Also has the dual Deg markings, 11deg and 5deg. The peg is currently in the 11 deg elongated hole. I guess it could be disassembled, and re-assembled with the peg in the smaller hole. What I am concerned about is if the points cam on that A50 part would be OK on the ET Hornet. Are there many different points cams?
May have to ring up Gary E !!
0 18 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
5 hours ago
I thought of that also when talking to an old timer that has a '65 magneto Sportster, and they can be hard to start also.
Aircraft piston engines used them often. The concept would certainly apply to the MC engines! Don't know why it's not been offered, as we can't be the only ones thought of it!
1 51 Read More
Ariel Forum
6 hours ago
I spent some quality time with the bore gauge today. The cylinder is more, um, cylindrical than my initial measurements yesterday indicated.

Other than the top 1", over the entire rest of the cylinder, " the clearance varies within a range of + or - 0.0002" from a mean value of 0.0043", i.e. 0.0043" +/-0.0002". However, the top 1" tapers larger by 0.0017",

The clearance affects two things, the tendency of the skirt to seize, and the rings to have to flex periodically. With it larger by 0.0012" at the position of the top ring when at TDC it means that ring will have to expand and contract by that amount on each revolution. Which isn't a lot to ask of it. That said, I plan to use a compression plate, which will drop the piston somewhat in the bore, so the amount of movement will be less. However, because I've skimmed some from the bottom of the cylinder I won't know exactly where the piston sits in the bore at TDC until it is assembled.

For present purposes, the top of the upper ring is ~0.2" below the top of the cylinder and the bottom of the skirt is 2.19" below the top of the cylinder. Since the stroke is 3.7402", at the bottom of the stroke the bottom of the oil ring is 4.4" below the top of the cylinder and the skirt is 2.19"+3.74"=5.93" below the top of the cylinder (i.e. ~0.6" above the bottom).

Turning to the skirt, when the piston is at the top of the stroke the skirt will be at a position where the clearance is 0.0043", and at the bottom of the stroke it is 0.0044". In between those positions it stays between those values.

You might remember that Omega recommends 0.0024", the guy at the Ariel club 0.002"-0.004", and two guys here 0.0025"-0.004". I had decided on 0.005" but the above shows I fell short of that larger figure by ~0.0007". So, I have to decide whether to stay with what I now have, or get all messy again and coax a little more material from the cylinder.
743 59,601 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
6 hours ago
Just to follow up here-- I had Dean Collinson (https://www.deancollinsonrestorations.com) do the engine rebuild. I don't know any machinists that are familiar with BSA timing side bushes and Dean is here in Southern California so I figured I give him a try. He's a great guy and I highly recommend him. He said the bottom end was ravaged with dirty oil. This was an engine with unknown history so the rebuild was always in its future.

During the wait I accumulated some upgrades/parts- the Ken Rowark rearsets, Pazon ignition, and 2 into 1 pipes. I'm currently still doing the break in miles-- 20 so far and now seam to have a fluctuating voltage at the battery issue. The battery shows 13v but won't even power the horn. With a different battery and the bike running I can't get a steady voltage reading. It might be a reg/rec issue (I've got a tympanium wired in right now) that boiled the battery. I ran out of time this weekend so this'll have to wait.

I have to say (and I think I did in another thread last year), those rearsets made by Ken are simply beautiful. Oh, and thanks to all who recently helped with my exhaust issues. They seem to be holding and that tach cable is shielded.

Here a picture of the bike:

[Linked Image]
22 3,498 Read More
HOT LINKS Forum
7 hours ago
nice I bet you could put a little pan of charcoals under that luggage rack and cook hamburgers and weenies on it
2 59 Read More
Members Bike Projects
7 hours ago
cool project, but like said above, get a bike lift, I broke down and grab the one from harbour freight, $300, well worth it man, it just makes things so much easier
3 89 Read More
HOT LINKS Forum
7 hours ago
Not a bad-looking deal if genuine ... LOOKS complete, stock, and if running ... well ... a good start!
1 34 Read More
GARAGE SALE- The FREE Private Buy-Sell BOARD
Yesterday at 11:41 PM
If you come up missing any engine small parts, A65, I have a lot of used stuff. Like most everybody else, my used fastener bucket is pretty grim.
11 666 Read More
HOT LINKS Forum
Yesterday at 11:35 PM
Maybe the Bitsa part is what he's implying when the ad was published without a year model specified!

Lannis
2 57 Read More
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