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Active Threads | Active Posts | Unanswered Today | Since Yesterday | This Week
The Rod and Tappet
1 minute ago
Ricochet -
What you photographed was a very special train delivering new locomotives for the country of India. These were made in the USA by GE.

Read More Here !

For your first outing you did really good !

31 1,128 Read More
Three State Mountain Ride Forum
6 minutes ago
Originally Posted by DavidP
Originally Posted by Lannis
I find that every time I let the weather forecast affect my plans, it turns out to be a beautiful day, with a little rain at the end (which fulfills the "100%") and I end up regretting it.

Yeah, maybe I should have stayed at Barber last year to see how the weather turned out on Sunday after they cancelled the races because of those forecasts.
Call me crazy, call me a wimp, but I remember riding in the rain to BIBR and spending the whole weekend in the rain. No fun!

You were right. I tempted fate with my "100% chance of rain just means it might rain once during the day".

And I doomed us all to constant, continuous, flood-level rains.

Pics and report soon ... !
33 1,436 Read More
The Competition Forum
11 minutes ago
Originally Posted by Mike Baker
Whats the Barber deal? Racing?

Yes and much more Festival
15 303 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
17 minutes ago
Hi Guys! I have no idea where this guy was from or what he rode not that I really care.. Baldwin isn't your home for super intelligent people although they do have a rather sophisticated airport. The holy grail of trout streams, the Au Sable River runs just near the town and you can land your private aircraft there, go to your "quaint cottage", fish to your heart's content and fly back home. There's even an well equipped Orvis Fly Fishing Store there. Yes, I have fished the Au Sable a time or two.
5 70 Read More
Ariel Forum
17 minutes ago
Originally Posted by gunner
you could also invest in a Scott Oiler which would reduce wear significantly.
Except a Scott oiler requires movement of a swing arm to power it and my Ariel's swing arm is frozen solid.
Originally Posted by gunner
X and O ring chains are excellent products mainly intended for high HP super bikes covering high mileages.
They're made with fat pins and sidewalls to survive high HP, but that could be done without X/O rings. The "intent" of the manufacturer in adding those was to ensure lubrication for a reasonable amount of time because most riders will never oil their chains. Design overkill plus being "maintenance free" (in the sense that I won't maintain them...) is why I'm using X-ring chain.
Originally Posted by gunner
some drawbacks such as increased friction which saps power due to the o/x rings between the plates
Power loss with these chains is negligible.
Originally Posted by gunner
increased difficulty when changing due to having to push/in out the rivet pin.
Master links for these chains are supplied in one type with spring clips, like I have, or in another type that needs to be rivetted on for truly high h.p. application. Unlike a standard chain where the side plate is an easy slip fit over the pins on the master link, on the X-ring chain clearances are less which is why a small clamp is needed to assemble and disassemble them. Compared with the other difficulties I might have at the time that resulted in me breaking one of these chains, deploying that small tool to remove and install the master link isn't a major consideration.

I'm down to the last 2% of the restoration. Unfortunately, that's the part that takes 98% of the time. Today I Loctited and torqued all the engine and gearbox mounting bolts and studs, which takes a minute to type but several hours to do, installed (but didn't time) the magneto, installed (but didn't adjust) the clutch, and installed the carburetor. I also measured the dimensions and spring constant of the clutch springs (10.7+/-1 pounds/in. in case anyone cares). I may have shown it much earlier in this thread, but a leaky carburetor when the bike arrived prompted me to modify a BSA A10 drip plate that's shown below. It has a cutout to clear the magneto's advance cable and an extension on the side to go under the pre-Monobloc's float bowl.

At the time I quit for the day there were only five more components, plus the fuel tank, left to install, as shown below. I'll leave the primary cover (and rear brake mechanism) off until the drive chain arrives because it will be much easier to install it if I don't have to fish it into position. Left over is a 5/16"x2.5" stud that I have no idea where it goes. No doubt I'll discover on the road that it is absolutely critical to the bike.

As I wrote earlier, as part of the sorting out process I'll be using the magneto as-is. Once I reach the point where the bike makes it to the end of the street and back, and those short test runs have helped me identify all (or some) of the things I did wrong with the rebuild, 'll completely rebuild the magneto at the same time I'm addressing those issue.

Thanks to someone mentioning it on the AOMCC web site I contacted someone in Australia who makes variable magneto timing sprockets for several old bikes, including my Ariel. The center of it locks onto the magneto's taper while three bolts allow the teeth to be rotated with respect to it. I like this idea a lot since timing a magneto is one of the more fussy jobs thanks to the gear/teeth typically slipping a little as the nut tightens the sprocket onto the taper. Anyway, the Australian responded that he would get back to me shortly with the price, no doubt once he can check on the postage.

With the bike now almost back together I'm feeling pretty good. Until the bike refuses to start I can live with the delusion that it will start, and until the crankshaft falls out I can live with the delusion that it will reliably carry me 4000 miles.
1,024 116,002 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
25 minutes ago
Hmm, I think polishing spokes would have to be high on the list.
2 27 Read More
The Triple Forum
43 minutes ago
Hello I started a new thread as Ive been sidelined by a medical issue. I recd the new Barnett clutch plate for my 69A75 which was the subject of my last post(24 april). As Stein Roger pointed out the Splined center section is not as robust as the other options . However when my previous 2 factory plates lasted a combined 20K miles I cant justify paying over 200 dollars for another one. At 70 dollars Ill take my chances with the Barnett especially after John Healys assessment of the problem. It would appear that the misalignment on my bike is of a lesser order than described by John by a factor of ten. On further digging I came across an article and video of a fellow who had a T160 with the same misalignment problem and how he measured, welded and machined the problem away. Something far beyond the average owners ability to replicate. It does make me wonder about the extent of the problem across the whole production run of these bikes. It would be interesting to hear what the life expectancy of clutch plates has been and whether failure has been due to premature spline (misalignment) or normal clutch facing wear. It would also be interesting to hear what the warranty response was from the factory and how did they make it good for all the affected (and pissed off ) owners. On another tack I wondering if any of you guys can provide me with 4th gear transmission bearing options (4 speed ). The original bearing was a Hoffmann n241 v2 now obsolete and I cant find the identification code for the RHP replacement so am looking for a SKF,Koyo or FAG alternative as I can locally source these at a more reasonable price. I have purchased all the other bits and pieces to renew and reassemble the primary drive except for the thrust washer behind the chain wheel. I am told by a Canadian parts supplier that they no longer stock the part (57-2214) because they were advised by John Williams(or his representative) that in their experience this part is not required for proper functioning. Seems bizarre to me as what limits end float? Wondering what your thoughts are. Any feedback will be gratefully recd. Tony
0 5 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
50 minutes ago
I think I am on the right track thinking it has something to do with the return side. Changing the pump made things better but it did not restore the return to what I have been used to seeing for the last 36 years. The slider/drive block was well worn as were the "C" shaped clips that ride on it. Had to reuse the drive block as it's the only one I had. I now have a much greater return at higher RPMs but still a non-spurting dribble at idle. When I shot PJ1 Cleaner and air into the oil lines and drill ways it came out spotless. I did do the same into the end of the crank and may have dislodged some crud. That might explain the dirty oil on return. I no longer have the head on a glass of beer foam on the oil but, there is still a layer of tiny bubbles(cue Laurance Welk) on the oil coming back. I'll be doing the vacuum test Monday after work.
29 947 Read More
Yesterday at 11:34 PM
1966 and '67 were two of the cleanest, most attractive years for this model.
1 80 Read More
Three State Mountain Ride Forum
Yesterday at 11:09 PM
Had a nice trip back to Northern Neck in VA. First day of five I have not been rained on. Emptied the truck and spread everything out to dry. Thanks to Windy for organization and to Melissa for the fine quarters and to all participants for making another great year.
1 23 Read More
Members Bike Projects
Yesterday at 10:51 PM
Ahh OK, i understand now. The valves are the same length as the standard ones from memory, so you have to cut the seats
back a bit. I have a set of big valves here that i made up, they are modified velo ones, about the same head size but these have
bsa collett rings and machined to make them about 1.5mm longer. As in remember i couldn't use them as they were a problem with
clearance and were too long with the cut-in seats on my other heads. Shame as they are a good shape.

I may not be able to get to Victoria as it looks like we will be moving house around that time and 'er indoors' will prohibit me buggering off.
841 500,425 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
Yesterday at 10:44 PM
Some useful advice gents, thanks. I think I'll have a go with replacement earh wiring, a low-amp fuse, and no petrol tank or fuel in the carbs as a safety precaution. That should tell me whether the starter motor, lighting and ignition circuits are working. If they are, and if there's no sign of anything untoward, Ill progress from there. The harness along the frame spine tube (under the tank) looks absolutely fine except for the red wire insulation. Inside the headlamp is fine, the wires down to where the points would have been are fine, to the tail light, rear brake light switch, to the alternator and zener diode - all fine. The rectifier looks as if it may have got hot, though it could just be age.
4 66 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
Yesterday at 10:40 PM
May have been experimenting with timing or seeing how bent he could get the valves?
37 1,060 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
Yesterday at 10:20 PM
Many thanks for the great service and great people !

Nothing good lasts forever.....
2 168 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
Yesterday at 09:26 PM
clap ALRIGHTY THEN! clap

Well done, Shaun, me laddio!
3 84 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
Yesterday at 09:12 PM
Amal did make 689 carbs in 1-1/8".
Used on Norton Atlas and hybrids. 1966 only.
3 97 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
Yesterday at 09:09 PM
You may find this interesting ... some years ago when riding Hwy1 in NoCA my Goldie had a fit with running rough, backfiring and shooting flames out the pipe. Yikes. I pulled off luckily at a 'scenic' turnoff and started checking the SRM Boyer ignition system with my small ohm meter I carry along with no luck. After some time my riding partner went ahead, luckily only a few miles to bring back my van for a rescue. While waiting for his return I did some more testing and discovered that when parked I had 12v everywhere, but when I turned on the headlight the voltage dropped way off. Traced the problem to the ammeter. Obviously the 'shunt' had opened and the current needed to flow thru the meter high resistance operating coil. I then doubled up the battery wire to the other terminal, reassembled stuff and rode off down the road. BTW, the ammeter is still bypassed. aargh.
10 353 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
Yesterday at 09:09 PM
Originally Posted by TR7RVMan
Hi Dave, Understanding you need to wait 2 weeks to know for sure, but it seems ok now?

Did you clean plates or just change oil?

If just changed oil, how far did you road test?

Looking a Halford web site the oil doesn't say wet clutch specific or not. LAB seems to had problems with Halford. This clutch sticking is most puzzling.

Thanks, Don

Not cleaned plates off,have done some 80 odd miles and strangely enough we are having some lovely weather in the Midlands quite warm at present.

Mine seems to free within a couple of kicks now with Halfords Classic just can't leave the bugger for any length of time,got 4 bikes and the Bonnie screams out "Ride Me" laughing

Cheers Dave
26 588 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
Yesterday at 09:04 PM
Nearest I get to you Stein is Marnardal.
Beer is always an option if you’re near Kristiansand even at Nog prices!
Come to Wales and I’ll buy you three for the price of one!
35 853 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
Yesterday at 09:00 PM
Not so sure about that, these forks seems to top out no matter what in my experience.
I notice TR7 Don is with me on thin oils, but with you being a full grown beefeater you may want to start with a 10 grade fork oil? I’m about 200 lbs net and 215 “on the road” and find 10w ok for a standard fork.
Bear in mind that new seals will add to the dampening by increasing the static friction. The surface finish on stock Triumph stanchions isn’t comparable to anything new, and it may take a few thousand miles for them to achieve a smooth surface. It usually happens just before the chrome is worn out...
6 127 Read More
The Rod and Tappet
Yesterday at 08:51 PM
387 51,976 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
Yesterday at 08:46 PM
I too have been a long time customer of Rabers in San Jose. I never missed the opportunity to visit their shop and buy some goodies when I was over for the very successful Clubman Show and Swap. The Clubman Show is also now gone RIP. Many of my friends in the NoCA BSA Club who worked hard every for 25+ years have called it quits. sheeze.
2 88 Read More
British Motorcycles in General
Yesterday at 07:53 PM
Originally Posted by C Potempa
Oh, okay. I've never done that before. I've always pulled in the clutch, shifted in to the gear I want, hold it (with my foot as it is a foot shift) until I can feel it mesh with the gears and then release the clutch lever. I'll try it your way.

Changing up, you can apply some pressure with your foot while the engine is still pulling and it won't willingly change until you shut the throttle and declutch.

Changing down in the face of a hill, or to overtake, apply pressure to the pedal then declutch with enough throttle to bring the revs up.

I've only used the later GB Burman but it seemed to work on that and on the notorious Enfield Albion box and the Triumph.
4 45 Read More
Triumph Bulletin Board
Yesterday at 07:53 PM
Isn't the PWK a 2 stroke carb???????
34 1,214 Read More
BSA Bulletin Board
Yesterday at 06:35 PM
August 1971 manufactured 1972 MY.
I read somewhere that the last batch of A65 twins were built on 10th of December 1971, of course it could have been February '72 instead, but I think that by August '72 the BSA twins were sadly consigned to history.

There has been a lot of confusion caused over the years by people stamping frames and engines with "impossible" number combinations (and it's still going on now)

Very recently a large bike breakers near me sold an imported T120V frame which had a number that could not possibly have been issued by the factory.
The breakers had made a NOVA declaration on that frame number too.
Now someone has bought it and will no doubt be applying to the TOMCC for a dating certificate.
Well I think that they will be in for a nasty surprise
14 516 Read More
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