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Broken stud extractor #784649 09/18/19 3:42 am
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Paul Sammut Offline OP
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So, I broke an engine case stud in my Series C Rapide and, of course, it is in a deep tunnel/recess which is largely inaccessible without a complete tear down of the engine. I would like to avoid this, naturally, if at all possible. My friend made up an appropriate sleeve and I was able to get a left-hand 1/4” drill bit to drill into the remnant. Sadly, this alone did not unscrew said remnant. I need a 1/4” extractor that is at least 3 1/2” long but cannot find one, not even through McMaster-Carr. I found a Chinese set which contains a 3” long extractor, but so little of it is exposed that I cannot grip it properly.
Anyone know if such a tool exists, please?
Thanks in advance,
Paul


Paul

'74 Commando - Interstate
"74 Commando - Hi-Rider, possibly
'65 Atlas, mostly anyway
'15 R1200 GS Adv
'51 Vincent Rapide
'58 Ariel Square Four
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Re: Broken stud extractor [Re: Paul Sammut] #784676 09/18/19 2:01 pm
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David Dunfey Offline
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Paul,

I have not had this problem. I assume it is the short stud that holds the top of the mag cowl on the drive side ET109/13. Glenn Bewley visited recently and he mentioned that he had one of these to fix. He might develop an idea of how to do it in situ. It occurs to me that you could keep going with the sleeve and the drill and with the sleeve, you have a good chance of drilling out the minor diameter of the thread that is stuck. It may come loose once it is breached and the remnants could turn out or be blown out. Then you could run a tap in to clean it out. It is some work, but as you say, it may be worth it to avoid a tear down.

David

Last edited by David Dunfey; 09/18/19 2:31 pm.
Re: Broken stud extractor [Re: Paul Sammut] #784821 09/20/19 2:43 am
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Cyborg Offline
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A Blue Point extractor for that size is only just over 2 inches and normally you need 5/8 for the tool that grabs the extractor. You could drill a blind hole in a piece of 5/16 rod (or decent grade bolt with threads cut off) and mount the extractor in it. Drill the broken stud the appropriate size and tap in the extractor/rod and pray. Hopefully the original stud broke from being over tightened and not because the threads in the case are knackered. Doubt if you could get a whole lot of force on it using this method.

https://shop.snapon.com/product/E1020


Last edited by Cyborg; 09/20/19 3:07 am.
Re: Broken stud extractor [Re: Paul Sammut] #784923 09/21/19 3:39 am
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Paul Sammut Offline OP
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Thank you both so much. David, it actually is bolt 109/9 (F in MO41) and I had discussed the problem with Glenn. I am nervous about damaging the housing if I blindly breech the stud end, but it makes perfect sense - will try. If it fails, I will try Cyborg’s or Quinten’s methods (also posted this elsewhere on Britbike).
Regards,
Paul.


Paul

'74 Commando - Interstate
"74 Commando - Hi-Rider, possibly
'65 Atlas, mostly anyway
'15 R1200 GS Adv
'51 Vincent Rapide
'58 Ariel Square Four
Re: Broken stud extractor [Re: Paul Sammut] #784963 09/21/19 2:56 pm
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Cyborg Offline
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So are you going to make a guide for the drill bit so it centres on the stud? As in take a piece of stock that fits snugly in the hole. Chuck it in a lathe and drill a hole through it. Slide it into the stud hole to guide your drill bit so it will centre on the stud and hopefully keep running down the centre.
If you plan on using the Blue Point extractor, you need to use the corresponding (size) drill bit from the kit. If you try pre-drilling with anything larger, the extractor won’t work. I’d post a photo of what the extractor looks like, but don’t have photo Hosting.

The Blue Point kit comes with guides (or pilots) that are meant to slip onto the end of a (protruding) broken stud. They could be used in a stud hole, but unfortunately the ones in the kit are either slightly too large or two small for that particular hole in the case. You’ll have to make one. Also.... at first glance the extractors don’t look like something that would work that well, but I bought the kit back in the dark ages, and they have saved my bacon many times.

Re: Broken stud extractor [Re: Paul Sammut] #785048 09/22/19 4:37 am
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Paul Sammut Offline OP
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Thanks, Cyborg. The sleeve I mentioned in my original post was the guide you refer to, I think. Yes, I did use the corresponding sized drill and the extractor is grabbing, but wit 1/4” exposed, I cannot grip it strongly enough to twist with enough torque


Paul

'74 Commando - Interstate
"74 Commando - Hi-Rider, possibly
'65 Atlas, mostly anyway
'15 R1200 GS Adv
'51 Vincent Rapide
'58 Ariel Square Four
Re: Broken stud extractor [Re: Paul Sammut] #785049 09/22/19 4:37 am
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Paul Sammut Offline OP
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Thanks, Cyborg. The sleeve I mentioned in my original post was the guide you refer to, I think. Yes, I did use the corresponding sized drill and the extractor is grabbing, but wit 1/4” exposed, I cannot grip it strongly enough to twist with enough torque


Paul

'74 Commando - Interstate
"74 Commando - Hi-Rider, possibly
'65 Atlas, mostly anyway
'15 R1200 GS Adv
'51 Vincent Rapide
'58 Ariel Square Four
Re: Broken stud extractor [Re: Paul Sammut] #785077 09/22/19 3:20 pm
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Cyborg Offline
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What does your Chinese extractor look like?

Last edited by Cyborg; 09/22/19 6:28 pm.
Re: Broken stud extractor [Re: Paul Sammut] #785090 09/22/19 5:49 pm
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Magnetoman Online Content
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Originally Posted by Paul Sammut
So, I broke an engine case stud ... was able to get a left-hand 1/4” drill bit to drill into the remnant.
I just came across this thread. Although it already may be too late (or, maybe not) depending on the drilling you've already done, I do appreciate the issue with the particular stud you're talking about.

[Linked Image]

Unless the break is more than ~¼"-½" below the surface, if it were me I would build up the end of the broken stud with TIG enough to attach a short piece of rod to it. In essence, returning the stud to its original length, if not longer. The heat couldn't do anything but help loosen the stud, and the welded metal would allow much more torque to be applied than is possible with one of those extractors.

Re: Broken stud extractor [Re: Paul Sammut] #785097 09/22/19 7:11 pm
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Cyborg Offline
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This is one of those Blue Point Extractors in use. Its a manifold stud that I believe will be the same size and thread as your stud. As you can see, there isn't a lot of room for error. The hole required for the extractor is 3/16, so as mentioned... if you drill a 3/16 hole in a 5/16 bolt (with the threaded area cut off) tap the extractor into the bolt... you may want to add Loctite but shouldn't be required if the bolt is a decent grade and the hole is deep enough. Now you can tap the tool into a 3/16 hole drilled into the broken stud.. assuming there is still enough meat behind where you have already drilled.

That piece on the extractor is just the driver and it slips off.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]Carb stud extractor by First Last, on Flickr


[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]Carb stud extractor 2 by First Last, on Flickr

Last edited by Cyborg; 09/22/19 7:16 pm.
Re: Broken stud extractor [Re: Paul Sammut] #785762 09/29/19 3:21 am
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Paul Sammut Offline OP
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Got it out! - with the help of friends and advice from this forum. Used the same technique as described above - I drilled through the stud remnant and we then banged in the Blue-Point type extractor leaving just enough external that a sleeve nut could be passed over it. Using a socket on it, it was gently unscrewed and removed! My friend welded a rod to a 5/16”W tap and we cleaned out the threads.
Many thanks for all your kind suggestions and thanks especially go to Victor who did the welding.
Paul.


Paul

'74 Commando - Interstate
"74 Commando - Hi-Rider, possibly
'65 Atlas, mostly anyway
'15 R1200 GS Adv
'51 Vincent Rapide
'58 Ariel Square Four

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