Hey guys! new here i live in cleveland ohio and have a bsa a65 custom,
I have a question in reguards my pazon igintion. I have 2 a65s both are pretty custom, but for some reason i went ouside today finally to try kicking over the one a65 i am almost completed building( waiting for this cold weather to pass) This has never happened to me before but when i turn my two postion switch from being on to ignition on the system fires through the spark plug when ihave my plugs out checking for spark.It also shoots a spark when i turn from the igntion to the full power/ lighting position on my key switch and sometimes holds a spark for a second, arcing through the spark plug. I am kind of lost here on what could be happening. Do you think my coils are not fully charged/ and or they are not good anymore? My battery is for the most part charged up and it is not a gel cell battery, just a regular acid battery.I am having some trouble and just wanted to know some input. Thanks guys!!!!!
This sounds like poor voltage to the pazon box .
1. the same good battery voltage at your battery
2. making its way through the key switch to the ignition box .
ok awesome i am going to check today thank you
With Pazon or boyer, if you switch power to the ignition on you will get a momentary spark. this is nothing new,
When your switching between the poles on your ignition switch, its quite possible that the pole for ignition and lights is not tied in permanently with the ignition only position. so your making and breaking the connection. you can check the switch by putting a multimeter set to ohms to the lights and ignition pole and the ignition only pole, key in any position and turned in each position, you shouldn't get any readings across them in any position - as long as you have removed the wires from the switch first. This would prove that there is a point where there is no conductivity between the 2 positions and hence the spark as you switch to lights and ignition position.
Some switches may????? have a contact which goes across both poles inside the switch, leaving a constant power to the ignition...
Ok guys i charged up my battery and shes good to go, gotta love cleveland cold ass weather, I got her with good spark now. I have just put a brand new monobloc on the bike and for some reason i have it adjusted just enough to where i kick it it will either fire once or a couple revolutions, i have not figured out the exact timing? or proper adjustments to bring her to a idle. any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Fam!
Try screwing in the throttle stop screw one turn, it could be too low, if it starts and the idle is too high, back it off a touch. Once you get it running check the timing with a strobe if you can.
Thanks fam! got her running enough to strobe it! looks like it was my carb adjustments. I messed with the adjustment small increments and soon got it running decently.Now time to strobe light it.
On a another note: I have my forks assembled all new parts/seals, so i put my assembly up into my triple clamps and tightened everything up and it seems as if my fork stanctions are about exactly 1" too long because of my spring does not touch the lower triple clamp when i have my bike up on the center stand. Did i get the completely wrong fork stanction length? is there a "short" style fork stanctions for a older/newer year? i finally took the fork assembly apart and took a tap measure to it and it measured 22 9/16" in length, the perfect length i would need would be around 21.5"
Any input would be Much appreciated !!
When the engine is hot (done at least a 10 mile run) screw in the horizontal idle mixture screw until the engine speed is at its fastest, the slowly back it off until the revs just begin to drop. Thatâ€™s the idle mixture screw set. Then if it is ticking over too fast, back off the diagonal screw and this will lower the slide position. It is preferred then to check the idle mixture again as above but 9/10 times the position wonâ€™t have changed.
What year are the forks ? , there are several variations, and there are two main styles of top yoke , some early unit twins had a drop style top yoke ,this type needs shorter tubes. Three types of damper from 63 - 70, at least two types of fork end, brake side with threaded end for axle, or brake side with split clamp. You say your bikes are "custom " , are the headstocks the standard size?
i am going to look tonight yes they are custom well fitted to my likings. i know lowbrow customs really really well the owners tyler and kyle and todd the "technition" i grew up with him and his son. Tonight i am going to check the differences between early unit style top yoke, and i have the fork ends with the threaded one side / quick release axle. Everything on my bike i got oem replacement parts had my case vapor blasted new pistons rings/ had the cyclinder head re lapped/ new monobloc carb/ electronic pazon ignition/ all new hardware and nuts, new siamese exhaust/ the only thing i made different was i got a hardtail for it i know i know not cool but i go to mid ohio vintage days for the past 9 years since i was a kid and i found this roller with a title from ohio so i decided to build it my way. I can post some pictures of it i painted the gas tank myself at work.
i have the fork ends with the threaded one side / quick release axle.
This identifies the forks as BSA heavy duty, up to 65 they are single damping rate, 65 onwards they are rod damper and two way damped. The rod damper is screwed into the bottom of the top fork nut, so if you undo one nut and look it will tell you if they are rod damper or not.
Could be Later than 65 , my 68 A65 T had a QD front wheel with the 8" SLS. There are two types of fork that year , split cap TLS, screwed in SLS. Share the same dampers, fork shaft / leg/ stanchion part no 68- 5144..
Knowing the type of front brake the OP has would help a lot.
This thread started as Pazon,now its forks, start a new one, your forks may be a mix of different years, its a custom, F knose anytyhing could be on there , do you have dropped or straight top yokes?
Are there damper rods?
What is the front brake / hub type?
What is your problem with "technician"? Unless your man owns and rides a BSA he is is guessing and trying to get you off his back. If you want a simple fix front end for you bike then I suggest a Sportster front with disc, your man should have a lathe to make the front end fit. Sportsters from the late 70s have decent Showa forks , slim and available. Same 19" rim, needs lighter springs.
If you are trying to work with what you have , describe it fully. Pics would help, use postimage to host . or sign up, its marginally easier, but needs a fivers worth of commitment to Morgans desperate cause.
I have the straight top yokes, there are no damper rods and i have 7" front hub type 3. My dude only works on triumphs and is not familiar with bsa style forks, he sticks with triumph and only has one bsa 500 that he did not work on. I am really not trying to mix harley parts with bsa parts im just trying to get my front end to oe height.
see if this works not too sure how to bring up some pictures.
nope, doesn't work. Unfortunately it looks like you have used the file path on your computer, however as we can't access your computer we cannot follow that file path. the photos will need to be uploaded to a hosting site, or uploaded directly to this site (often they will need to be reduced in size)
"there are no damper rods and i have 7" front hub type 3."
No damper rods suggests early forks, pre 1966 had no damper rods.
I am not familiar with Type 3 hubs, is it full width or half width? Single leading shoe or twin leading shoe. The screw in axle fork ends usually have a half width hub, AFAIK A65s had 8" front brakes, although a 7" from a smaller model would certainly fit.
i have the half hub, and two shoes. i am trying to figure out how to get some pictures bare with me im not that computer savy with images.https://cdn1.imggmi.com/uploads/2019/3/22/3cc5d20e7a4ff396d7ebcc50cb8bfa66-full.jpg
That worked. Is the headstock of the frame , the section where the steering stem passes though, is this perhaps shorter than BSA would have made it?, that would account for excess fork leg protrusion. measure the gap between the yokes/ triple trees, some one here should be able to confirm if this is correct or not.
i measured from the center of the top triple clamp to the center of the hole on the bottom triple clamp roughly 7 1/8"
There is a very simple solution here , lift the top yoke with a spacer under the steering stem nut, this only works if the steering stem is long enough , otherwise you need shorter fork legs, maybe you bought chopper size., you could fit an extra yoke under the bottom yoke to act as a spring stop and leave it with extended forks, . I dare you!