Does the 1962-1965 top yoke (part no 68-5049) go straight on 1966-1969 A65 forks?
Not familiar with the part number but there was 2 holes that year. The drop Yoke and the flat topped as per later bikes. You need the right stanchions to match the yokes.
According to my 65 parts book the 68-5049 is the cranked down top yoke for the shorter stanchions as mentioned above. The normal top yoke is 42-5011 for that year. Without changing the later stanchions the machine will be higher at the front than normal. As well the headlamp mounting 'ears' cannot be swapped as the distance between the upper and lower yoke is different. The ears must match the type of top yoke you are using or either they will not go into the space or conversely there will be a gap if the wrong ones are used.
What I am looking for is a yoke with the handlebar mounts placed in front of the steering stem rather than behind it. I have got the latter yoke on both my A10 Super Rocket and the A65 Lightning and it is hard to find low handlebars that do not foul the fuel tank.
That is definitely what BSA used prior to 1966. It's also what was used on the A65 Lightning Rocket Clubman.
I am working on parts for a Lightning Rocket Clubman replica, and that is the top yoke I am using.
Also, I am moving the speedometer and tachometer to a plate that is mounted to the top yoke using the two chrome bolts that hold the tops of the fork stanchions in place...similar to how the gauges on Gold Stars were mounted.
This places the gauges over the headlight, instead of doing it the clumsy way BSA did, mounted them on top of the handlebar clamps, 1966-1970.
You may have to modify the fork stop (also known as the lower steering damper anchoring plate) to cut the distance
of "full fork lock-to-lock" to a shorter swinging distance to prevent the handlebars from hitting the tank, especially if you have the big FOUR-GALLON tank.
To fit ace bars on the SR I had to weld approx. 5 mm to the fork stop to avoid the bar ends hitting the fuel tank. This reduced the lock-to-lock angle to a degree that made the bike hard to maneuvre in narrow places and also dangerous to ride on gravel. Shifting the bars a couple of inches forward would cure this problem.
I welded up the stop plate on mine, as above being stand has a lot of moveability or turning tightly in the road, but if you fit ace bars manoeuvring the bike becomes harder anyway. The tank will also slide back quite a bit on the frame so the front strap if facing the right way will allow the tank to butt right up to the seat.
Fitted adjustable ace bars to mine originally but now use norman Hyde M bars with my clubland rear set setup, the look looks good I think and the ride is very comfortable