Britbike forum
Posted By: grandfathertyke Sloper - 09/27/14 5:04 am
This is my first post, so be gentle! I've just bought a 1930 Sloper that needs a bit of work to get it going. It hasn't run since 1978 and I intend to have a good look at the engine to make sure that all is clear before attempting to start. There is almost nothing around in the way of shop manuals etc. (unless you know better) but I've been working on bikes for a long time and most of what I see is fairly straightforward. I've just hit a snag with the clutch hub, though. None of my extractors quite fits, so does anybody know if there is an extractor around that will do the job? If I knew the exact size and thread I could make one. Any help or advice much appreciated.

Thanks,

Frank
Posted By: Ian C Re: Sloper - 09/27/14 8:26 am
Welcome to the forum Frank... I'm no expert on the sloper, so I'm making an assumption that the single spring clutch is similar to the one on my 1940 M20. If so, the internal thread (for puller) is 1" x 24 TPI.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

HTH.. Ian aka Frank
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 09/27/14 1:36 pm
Can't believe this Ian (aka Frank!), you are located in Rotherham and so am I! I think that you are right; in so far as I can measure it, it looks like I need a one inch by 24 tpi internal puller. A matter now of seeing if my lathe is capable of screwcutting this, which I think it is. Many thanks!

Frank
Posted By: Semper Gumby Re: Sloper - 09/29/14 9:03 pm
Frank - pictures of the bike please! I would love to make a go at a Sloper or a BSA V-Twin. Not that many over here Stateside.

Regards,

Gumby.
Posted By: Rickman Re: Sloper - 09/29/14 10:24 pm
I'll second that, Gumby!!!
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 09/30/14 2:22 am
Guys, I'll post one or two pics over the next couple of days when I have figured out how to do it! I was born and brought up in the steam age, and I have to think carefully before pressing buttons. Be patient!

I have to say that so far I'm impressed with the engineering on the bike. I've had other true vintage bikes in the past (definition of vintage by the UK's Vintage Club is before 1931) and they have been a little, shall we say, flimsy. (That should get the Sunbeam and AJS owners going)I managed to get the clutch hub off without damage, but not by starting with a puller. I'm hoping to get to the point of splitting the crankcases this week if time allows. First big expense coming up as I've sent off the carb and the magdyno for resurrection to the appropriate experts. I'm hoping that other stuff I can do myself, but so far all it seems to need is a thorough clean. I could be wrong!

The reasoning behind buying the bike was 1. It was on offer by an old gent in the VMCC for a price that I couldn't walk away from. 2. I want to have what may be my last go at the VMCC Banbury Run (Google it - biggest collection of old bikes together on one day on the planet, plus biggest collection of old guys.) I've done the Banbury several time in the past few years and it is quite a challenge to old metal and old bones. In 2012 I managed a silver award, and in 2015 it would be my ambition to try for gold standard. Probably a forlorn hope, but dream on!
Posted By: Ian C Re: Sloper - 09/30/14 2:39 am
If you want Frank, I could pop round and give some tuition? I'm away on Business till Friday, but Im free next weekend. PM me with details if ok for you. :bigt
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/01/14 7:42 am
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


Well here goes! Is this ok?
Posted By: Semper Gumby Re: Sloper - 10/01/14 9:59 am
Lovely!
Posted By: Rickman Re: Sloper - 10/01/14 10:36 am
Simply MARVELOUS!
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/01/14 12:59 pm
Glad you like it, guys. If you want more pics, just ask. I'm an expert now. laughing
Posted By: wadeschields Re: Sloper - 10/01/14 4:01 pm
We like photos :bigt
Posted By: Rickman Re: Sloper - 10/01/14 5:44 pm
Keep 'em coming! For each step of the way!

Not much technical out there about these marvelous machines...
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/02/14 12:52 pm
[Linked Image]
Here's one to be going on with. I'm just on with lifting the cylinder and assessing what is inside! More pics and info to follow.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/02/14 5:44 pm
Well today I removed the valves and assessed them. They look pretty good, with no pitting. The springs are not so good in that one of them has taken a set from being compressed and is slightly shorter than the other. I'd like to fit new ones, but so far haven't been able to source any. I then lifted the barrel and found it to be in better condition than I'd hoped. There was very little difference in the measurement of the bore from top to bottom. The piston is +30 so the barrel has been re-bored several times. I guess that what happened was that it was last bored out just before it became a casualty of the age of the original owner and got locked away in the back of a heated garage. It stayed there from 1978 to 2012. I have also assessed the petrol tank (sorry chaps, gas tank if you like!) and found it to be in sound condition externally but with a really solid crust inside that looks like rust but is, I suspect, largely dried up fuel. I had a poke at it with a copper drift and what came off looked like coffee grounds and revealed solid bare metal underneath. I think that a touch of electrolysis is called for; I've used it before to get crud off the inside of tanks and it works well if you are patient and careful. Anyway, it can't do any harm. If that fails, then next is Coca-Cola. Lord knows what it does to your insides and teeth, but boy, does it shift crap out of tanks.

So far, then, and so good. I don't intend to restore the bike to a flash new-looking machine. It is in pretty original condition externally (and internally too) and I'd like to keep it that way. Bikes like this have a dignity about them that the patina brings, and I think it is a shame to destroy that and cover them in new paint and chrome. Each to his own taste, but mine is to make sure this is mechanically sound, safe to ride, externally clean, but no more.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/02/14 6:16 pm
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Well, here's a shot taken this evening of the piston from my 1930 Sloper. It is posed upon the saddle, and perspective plays tricks! It looks as big as a bucket. It is in very good condition, no scuffing or scraping and the pin is a good push fit without undue pressure or undue looseness.

The second shot is of the crankcase minus barrel and piston. There is no movement in the big end, and ditto for the little end. Over the weekend I hope to find the time to lift the cases out of the frame and split them. I'm really keen to get a look at the oilways and make sure they are free. Last year I restored a Triumph 5TA that seemed in fair condition, but when I took out the plug in the crank, the inside was so packed full of crud that I had to use a drill to get it out. That was a lesson well learned, and I want to make really sure for this old lady. I'm very conscious that she is 84 years old, and is built to LAST. She will easily see me out, and it is my duty while custodian to do my best to make sure that she survives to be passed on to many future owners.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/03/14 2:36 am
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

OK, here's a couple more for those who like photos. First is, obviously, the tank; out on the bench waiting for me to set up the electrolysis operation. The paint is the "wrong" shade, but it's not in bad condition. When the inside is clean, I'll give it a careful rub over with T-Cut before polishing it. I'm not one of those who gets wound up if a colour is "wrong"; this shade is part of this bike's history and it looks ok to me. I once went to a talk at the VMCC many years ago by a man called John Hudson. He had been Service Manager at Norton for a long time before the factory closed, and a member of the audience asked him about the colours used back in the days of yore. He laughed for quite a while! He went on to explain that at the factory, the paint shade was mixed in batches, mostly on a daily basis. There was no colour coding in those days, no computer control. They gave the job to the apprentices, and they would mix the paint until they thought it looked right. He was pretty amused by the way that people take up a stance on colour, which was applied many years ago and in conditions totally unlike today.

The second shot is of the valve-cap/spark plug carrier, and shows the work of a true metal-butcher. Valve caps can be notoriously difficult to remove if they have been in situ for a long time, but there is never any need to resort to this, the wild use of a hammer and chisel. He had obviously never heard of the heat-spanner and a well-fitting wrench. Not much can resist that. Anyway, although it looks a mess, it is recoverable. I'll put it in the lathe and spin the old hexagon off flat. I'll then bore out a piece of the correct size new brass hex to suit, and then silver solder it in place. The gouges round the shoulder made by the chisel can be filled with metal and the whole thing carefully filed down to a good finish. It should be more or less undetectable when done, other than that the new hex will look too regular compared to the old one in the exhaust position.. Should I hit it a few times with a chisel just to weather it a little?? He'd also performed the same trick on the nut that holds the half-time pinion in place. Couldn't shift it with a spanner, you see, but then he didn't realise that because of the direction of rotation of the engine this is a left-hand thread. The nut is junk, and I'll have to make another. No big deal, but shouldn't have happened.
Posted By: johnm Re: Sloper - 10/03/14 9:33 am
I have a photo for you.

My father in 1948. Wanganui New Zealand. (But OHV)

[Linked Image]
Posted By: kommando Re: Sloper - 10/03/14 10:52 am
Quote
If that fails, then next is Coca-Cola. Lord knows what it does to your insides and teeth, but boy, does it shift crap out of tanks.


I use electrolysis and it works well but if not then the active ingredient in Coke is Phosphoric Acid, works well on rusty steel and has the added advantage over Hydrochloric in that it leaves a layer of Iron Phosphate on the steel which is anti rust.

Good project and miles different to the normal projects we get.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/03/14 3:31 pm
Great pic, johnm. Thanks a lot.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/03/14 3:34 pm
Thanks Kommando. A pal of mine with a PhD in Chemistry recommended Coke a long time ago. I asked him why, if it was so powerful, it just didn't leak out of your belly-button. He said it would, if you could retain it long enough! Never figured if he was kidding or not.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/04/14 4:43 pm
[Linked Image]

For those who like pics, here's the valve timing marks on my Sloper. The half-time pinion is marked with a dot and a dash. The dot lines up with the dot on the exhaust pinion and the dash lines up with the dash on the inlet pinion. Simple as that. I keep finding little thoughtful and well-engineered touches as I work my way into the bike. I'm truly impressed by it; quality work and so, so solidly built. Check out that drive to the oil pump.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/06/14 4:05 pm
Help! Engine out of frame and all going well, until it comes to the oil pump. Not obvious how it comes out. Has anybody any ideas? The handbook has schematics of the pump but no clue as to how to shift it. The parts book is worse than useless. Thanks in advance!

Edit Wednesday 08/09/14. Panic over. Heat and a home-made puller worked. No problems inside the pump - very little wear and all oilways clear through big end. I can now get on with putting the engine back together safe in the knowledge that nothing nasty is lurking in the lubrication system.
Posted By: BSA_WM20 Re: Sloper - 10/08/14 7:09 am
Originally Posted by grandfathertyke
Well today I removed the valves and assessed them. They look pretty good, with no pitting. The springs are not so good in that one of them has taken a set from being compressed and is slightly shorter than the other. I'd like to fit new ones, but so far haven't been able to source any. I then lifted the barrel and found it to be in better condition than I'd hoped. There was very little difference in the measurement of the bore from top to bottom. The piston is +30 so the barrel has been re-bored several times. I guess that what happened was that it was last bored out just before it became a casualty of the age of the original owner and got locked away in the back of a heated garage. It stayed there from 1978 to 2012. I have also assessed the petrol tank (sorry chaps, gas tank if you like!) and found it to be in sound condition externally but with a really solid crust inside that looks like rust but is, I suspect, largely dried up fuel. I had a poke at it with a copper drift and what came off looked like coffee grounds and revealed solid bare metal underneath. I think that a touch of electrolysis is called for; I've used it before to get crud off the inside of tanks and it works well if you are patient and careful. Anyway, it can't do any harm. If that fails, then next is Coca-Cola. Lord knows what it does to your insides and teeth, but boy, does it shift crap out of tanks.

So far, then, and so good. I don't intend to restore the bike to a flash new-looking machine. It is in pretty original condition externally (and internally too) and I'd like to keep it that way. Bikes like this have a dignity about them that the patina brings, and I think it is a shame to destroy that and cover them in new paint and chrome. Each to his own taste, but mine is to make sure this is mechanically sound, safe to ride, externally clean, but no more.


Your tank should be made from Terneplate which is coated with lead.
This is why really old tanks seldom rust out.
Using electrolysis will remove the protective lead coating so solvents like carb cleaner would be a better long term approach
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/10/14 1:30 am
Too late! The electrolysis is almost complete. It has softened and removed almost all the dried-on fuel and left clean metal behind. Would the answer now to be to complete the process and then treat with phosphoric acid to give the tank an anti-rust coating?

A problem we are experiencing in the UK with fuel systems is the effects of ethanol, which is being added in increasing quantities and is playing havoc with tanks and also with fuel lines. I've done a couple of restorations of 60s bikes in the last few years and have treated their tanks to electrolysis followed by a tank liner made by Frost Automotive. So far the liner has shown no sign of coming away from the tank, as some do, and has been impervious to attack by ethanol. I was thinking of going down that route with the Sloper tank. Any comments much appreciated!
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/10/14 2:43 pm
Electrics advice needed! I'm still some way off re-wiring the bike but can't find a diagram. It is simple stuff, I'm sure, but what I'm puzzled about is the apparent lack of a voltage regulator. Does the Lucas Magdyno have an on-board regulator that stops the dyno from frying the battery?
Posted By: BSA_WM20 Re: Sloper - 10/10/14 6:29 pm
Originally Posted by grandfathertyke
Too late! The electrolysis is almost complete. It has softened and removed almost all the dried-on fuel and left clean metal behind. Would the answer now to be to complete the process and then treat with phosphoric acid to give the tank an anti-rust coating?

A problem we are experiencing in the UK with fuel systems is the effects of ethanol, which is being added in increasing quantities and is playing havoc with tanks and also with fuel lines. I've done a couple of restorations of 60s bikes in the last few years and have treated their tanks to electrolysis followed by a tank liner made by Frost Automotive. So far the liner has shown no sign of coming away from the tank, as some do, and has been impervious to attack by ethanol. I was thinking of going down that route with the Sloper tank. Any comments much appreciated!


You and the rest of the world.
Better to leave it bare clean steel and either totally full or totally empty.
A lot of petro solvents that are considered too dangerios for you to use in your workshop are disposed of via the fuel bowser. Any coating that is resistant to todays brew can not be guaranteed to stand up to what we will be forced to use tomorrow and removing a linner that is disolving into the fuel is not easy nor fun.
I had a mechanic sending me crazy trying to work out why a customers bike would work perfectly in his shop then refuse to run a few weeks latter in the owners garage. The culprit was the tank liner which was reacting with the particular brew that was being foistered upon the unsuspecting public in OZ at the time. No deposits in the carb any where it simply took out all of the low temperature volatiles so the fuel simply would not burn after it has been in the tank for 3 days
AFAIK the owner could not shift it so he simply drains the tank after each ride then refills before each ride.
Posted By: trevinoz Re: Sloper - 10/10/14 6:32 pm
You probably have a 3 brush generator. If so, it should have a cut-out, maybe mounted on the generator under the end cap.
This system also has a resistor built into the light switch for high and low charge.
I would ditch it and modify the generator to a 2 brush and fit a regulator.
Post some pictures of your generator and it can be determined what you have.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/11/14 1:17 am
The voice of authority! Good advice. Thanks for that, Trev, I'll go with it. For the time I'll be using the bike (a few runs a year with the VMCC) I'd do best to drain the tank. How about sloshing a little oil around in it when empty?
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/11/14 1:19 am
Thanks for the prompt response, Trev. The Magdyno is away being rebuilt at the moment so can't post any pictures. The shop is due to call me with an assessment of what work needs doing, and it's at that stage that I can talk to them about the changes needed.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/15/14 8:34 am
[Linked Image]
Picture of damaged valve cap set up in the lathe to machine the hexagon off and prepare the surface for a new hex.

[Linked Image]

and the same valve cap with the new hexagon silver soldered in place and most of the large holes filled.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/15/14 8:37 am
One I'd forgotten about - the bike in its as-found state, untouched since 1978.

[Linked Image]
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/15/14 8:41 am
and finally, does anybody out there know of a source of valves for the side-valve Sloper? I'm just putting the engine back together and the exhaust valve is badly pitted. Could do with another one, but can't find. Autojumble is one answer, but time-consuming.
Posted By: james rankin Re: Sloper - 10/15/14 9:24 am
grandfathertyke, That is a jewel of a machine. Also I would like to see more of the Myford.
Posted By: Alex Re: Sloper - 10/15/14 11:51 am
Fantastic bike...

If you cannot find a new valve or recondition the one you have (the seat surface can be re-ground), you may be able to find one that's close, dimensionally, and adapt it by, say, adjusting the length. Draganfly has a handy list of exisiting BSA and Ariel valve dimensions:

http://draganfly.co.uk/data/pdf/valves.pdf
Posted By: mr.moto Re: Sloper - 10/15/14 3:54 pm
i have old stock valves, if you give the dimensions i can check them. however, on my old sidevalve sloper i just modified other valves to use more modern valve caps and trimmed down the stems.
Pat. A.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/15/14 4:23 pm
Thanks. Have pm'd the dimensions to you.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/15/14 4:30 pm
Hi James, I have emailed you some pictures of my Myford. Probably outside the scope of the BSA forum and don't want to attract the attention of the mods!

Frank
Posted By: BSA_WM20 Re: Sloper - 10/15/14 7:06 pm
better to get new exhaust valve made from modern high temp high nickel steels.
The pre WWII valve steel was not particularly good at exhaust operating temperatures and were prone to stretching or bending at the neck.
which is why twin ports were so popular.

I will have a ferret through my papers and see if I can find the modern equivalent.
It was a desiel truck valve that needed the head turned down a bit to fit. Not a direct replacement.
Posted By: tzrewinds Re: Sloper - 10/17/14 7:59 pm

Hi Frank,
I've been running my sloper on it's original 3-brush dynamo with no regulator fine for 3 years or so now. It only supports a 25/25W quartz headlight Bulb and occasionally it needs the carbon on the commutator washed down with cotton buds dampened in a (little !) petrol ...else it tends to be slow to cut in.. But other than that, its covered 7000 miles, probably no more than 500 in the dark to and from club nights. I traveled 120 miles in the dark, M3 and A34 etc to escape the campsite rain after an enjoyable day touring the Isle of Wight last Bank holiday. I used this wiring diagram, given by another sloper owner...I only use a lead-acid moped battery in a dummy Exide box as it relies on the battery to hold it to 6V. A modern sealed battery won't like the over-voltage if you forget to move the switch off the "C" or half charge position. But I very rarely do this and I have only to top up the battery once/twice a year at most and I've yet to blow a bulb... so all part of the experience for me. I have no reason yet to complain about 3-brush dynamos.
.
Hope this helps. Brian
[Linked Image]
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/18/14 3:50 am
Brian, this helps very much indeed. Thanks a lot. Nothing like the voice of experience, and the diagram is what I have been after. Sounds as though you give your Sloper a pretty good workout; which year/version do you have? Also, have you ever done the Banbury on it?
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 10/21/14 11:37 am
Trev, word now back from the shop re the magdyno. As expected (as no spark from mag and no poke from dyno before sending away) both need pretty much a total rebuild. The shop will only rebuild to the two brush version, so that more or less settles it. They also supply a modern solid state regulator to wire in, but does that mean that the resistor in the light switch has to be removed??
Posted By: trevinoz Re: Sloper - 10/21/14 4:28 pm
The resistor is now redundant but I think that the resistor switch is 4 position and you only need a 3 position switch with a regulated generator.
I am pretty sure that you could use your switch with modifications to the circuit.
I had better study the circuit diagram.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 11/01/14 2:20 pm
Things somewhat in abeyance for the moment. Next big event will be the return of the magdyno, but that will take about 11 weeks. In the meantime, I've been getting on with smaller jobs, such as replacing the old, cracked tyres and checking out the wheels. The tyre on the rear wheel was flat and the tube had several punctures. When I examined the wheel, which had been re-spoked before the bike was laid up, I found that of the 40 spokes 37 had sharp, protruding edges which needed grinding off. Also, there was no rim tape. Somebody was probably going to risk his neck on this.

[Linked Image]

Another little job that had to be tackled was the front brake mechanism. As found, the adjuster was missing, as was the upper cable and brake lever nipple. I had to set to and make these, which are now fitted and working correctly. The front wheel with original spokes did not need any attention.

[Linked Image]
Posted By: Semper Gumby Re: Sloper - 11/02/14 8:11 pm
Following along...keep up the good work.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 11/03/14 12:23 pm
Thanks for the encouragement! More to come.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 03/31/15 12:21 am
Trev, the magdyno is back, fitted to the bike and all is working well. They were able to tell me how to deal with the switch; you are correct that the "electric fire" resistor is redundant. It is possible to remove it without damage and preserve it just in case it is ever envisaged (however remote) that the switch might do duty on a three-brush system.

I've got a lot of catching up to do with posting photos for those who like them, and will get on with it now that the bike is back together and working.
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 03/31/15 1:34 am
[Linked Image] [Linked Image][Linked Image] IMG]]

Well, here she is. First time out of the garage after refurb. Doesn't look much different from the as-found picture, but a lot has gone on in the background. First off, I have not touched any of the paint finish. The bike has a good patina (including the dents in the exhaust system) and I'm leaving it like that. Other stuff I've done is as follows:

magdyno refurb by Moathouse Magnetos (first class job and came in UNDER estimate!); carb rebuilt as new by Martyn Bratby (far less than the price of a new one, and an amazing job); new tyres and tubes; new drive chains; battery platform sourced from British Only (Austria); new gel battery fitted in dummy case; complete rewire; non-standard but q.d. brake-light fitted for safety (after a VERY unpleasant experience last year on my 1927 Raleigh that almost saw me become the mascot on a car radiator); genuine Lucas replacement ammeter fitted; petrol tank cleaned out and leaks soldered up; replacement period petrol tap fitted but with modern in-line filter; all new Bowden cables made up and fitted, including metalwork for new front brake cable; clutch sorted out (thoroughly cleaned plates in petrol, but couldn't get it to work properly at first. I had dismantled it carefully and kept it all in the same order so thought that putting it back ditto would be the thing. I then discovered three things: the first was that no matter how I tried to set it up, the plates just wouldn't separate. I got out the spares booklet and checked the rod. Sure enough, somebody had fitted the wrong one in the past, and it was around 13/16 too short. Soon fixed by making up a new one, plus discovering that the ball in the operating arm was missing, naturally. Second discovery was that somebody (him again!) had assembled the plates in the wrong order. I found a sketch of the clutch online and was able to reassemble without resorting to trial and error. Imagine the dismay when I found that it was still dragging, and no amount of adjustment or swearing would cure it. Several beers later it dawned on me that the thrust bearing in the cover plate at the business end of the clutch was badly worn down, even though made of hardened steel. I softened it and drilled it out, then made up a new one of bronze which I made to screw into place. I'll be keeping an eye on the wearing quality of this mod.); engine oilways cleaned out; barrel honed ; hopefully correct grade of oil/grease added to gearbox (certainly quieter now anyway); brakes stripped and cleaned out before being rebuilt; wheel bearings cleaned and readjusted; all frame greasing points cleaned out and re-packed while checking for wear; plus probably n other jobs I've forgotten about.

Question; does it go? Filled up the tank, turned on the petrol, operated the tickler and kicked. There is a sequence, technique, call it what you want. Idiosyncracies might be a term. I didn't have the knack, so it took maybe eight kicks to get her running. The correct sequence is, turn on petrol, operate tickler until petrol floods from bottom of carb. Make sure advance/retard is set right back at retard with air closed. Turn engine over at least four times to draw fuel in. Find compression, ease over it with the valve-lifter then give it the swinging kick it talks about in the books and BOOM, off she goes first time. Tick over is quickly established as the engine warms up.

And to ride? I've reached my 70th year by being careful, so the first thing I always check on a bike is the brakes. These are good for a vintage bike, and with a bit of thought and planning ahead are quite adequate for the kind of speeds envisaged. The kind of emergency stops possible with modern brakes are not to be contemplated, so don't is the maxim. The gearchange is smooth and the gate is well thought-out. The gears drop into the correct slots without you having to look down, which is not the case with a lot of old bikes. The bike has a twistgrip throttle, which makes life a lot easier than the usual period lever device. My old Raleigh had one, and I could never get used to it. The times I have sat at traffic lights wringing its neck to no avail! Acceleration is brisk if not fast, and it is perfectly capable of holding its own in town traffic. In my opinion, with limited road time, it is a bike in advance of its time. As for managing the advance/retard and air lever, there is no difference from the ancient heaps we learned on in the 1950s. If you forget it, it will soon remind you and you adjust it.

So there we are. I've managed to secure a ride in the Banbury Run on 21st June and if you are there then say hello. I'm number 66 and just hoping for a safe ride and a finish. I'm now turning to my next project, which has been waiting for two years - an ex-Auxiliary Fire Service Matchless G3, another case of reliving days gone by when I had one in the 1960s as they were being sold off cheap. If anybody has any comments on the Sloper or questions, I'd be pleased to hear from you.

Frank

Posted By: Ian C Re: Sloper - 03/31/15 2:35 am
It looks fantastic Frank!! I'll have to pop round sometime.. :bigt
Posted By: grandfathertyke Re: Sloper - 03/31/15 3:30 am
Sure, welcome! Kettle is always on. Just PM me to make certain I'll be in.
Posted By: stubbicatt R.I.P. Re: Sloper - 03/31/15 7:43 am
Very nice indeed.
Posted By: John Goodwin Re: Sloper - 03/31/15 9:18 am
Congratulations Frank.
I hope you have many enjoyable years to come with your rescued Sloper.
Looks magic.
Cheers John
Posted By: Peter Vlietstra Re: Sloper - 04/04/15 2:21 pm
I see this reply is a few months late. As far as I know, the Sloper was originally fitted with a Lucas Model MDI mag-gen. This had an on-board regulator. I see from your photos that you have a Lucas MO1 mag-gen. This is a slightly newer, more popular mag-gen and is directly interchangable. It does not have a built in regulator though. Of the many bikes fitted with the Lucas MO1, I would select the M20 as a base. You should easily get a regulator for an M20, if not original, then a modern electronic one. You can then use the M20 wiring diagram which is very basic.
© Britbike forum