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Bob E Offline OP
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anybody have any luck taking a brake light switch apart sucesfully? trying to finish up wiring on my spitfire and seems like switch not working, checked it with a meter and does not seem to operate correctly. this was a new switch I bought about 4 years ago.

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the switch only works in the middle of its travel, when it is at either extreme the switch is "off"


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Originally Posted by Allan G
the switch only works in the middle of its travel, when it is at either extreme the switch is "off"

BELIEVE THA FLAW ONLY APPLIES TO THE REPRODUCTION SWITCH. I HAVE PURCHASED NOS AND GOOD USED ONES THAT PERFORM AS INTENDED.


I APOLOGIZE FOR THE USE OF CAPS. I CAN ONLY TYPE WITH MY RIGHT HAND SO USING THE SHIFT KEY IS BEYOND MY CAPABILITES.

The Devil is in the details.

1957 BSA A10 Spitfire Scrambler (numbers matching, very correct, very nice condition)
1965 BSA A65 Lightning Rocket "Clubman" (restored)
1966 BSA A65 Spitfire MK-II (restored)
1967 BSA A65 West Coast Hornet (under restoration)
1975 Norton Commando Roadster (2100 miles)
2001 Kawasaki W650
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Bob E Offline OP
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Thanks Ken, thats what I have a repro switch, they want $150.00 for a NOS, dont know if I want to spring for a NOS

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Bob E Offline OP
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Thanks Allen

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Originally Posted by Spitfire Ken
Originally Posted by Allan G
the switch only works in the middle of its travel, when it is at either extreme the switch is "off"

BELIEVE THA FLAW ONLY APPLIES TO THE REPRODUCTION SWITCH. I HAVE PURCHASED NOS AND GOOD USED ONES THAT PERFORM AS INTENDED.

Interesting, The original switch I had they performEd as I described. It eventually failed and the plastic/Bakelite fell apart. I later fitted a repo one and it performed the same.
I might have just been unlucky.


Originally Posted by Bob E
Thanks Ken, thats what I have a repro switch, they want $150.00 for a NOS, dont know if I want to spring for a NOS

With careful positioning of the little dog leg and of the switch the problem can be avoided when in use. But it’s a fiddle. The biggest thing I ever found with it was if the travel exceeded the movement of the switch, not only would the light go off again but when the brake lever returned to home position it might not align with the switch, instead of jamming, it would either bend the bracket of the switch or the arm would get stuck within the switch. Then it’d all go out of sync.

I now have a mocked up bracket using the same switch as on the singles and oif. I made a new lengthened arm piece and the switch works much better. It needs another adaptation to it as the arm is at as secure as I’d like. Too much resistance on the lever pulls the whole thing back and the light stays on. The temporary fix for this has been a plastic clothes peg between the bracket and the frame. Whilst not ideal it’s not given me
Another problem since. (It will get a mk2 version... someday)

(The unfinished version)
[Linked Image]

4AF4551E-39BA-475F-BD42-9B1C903235CE.jpeg

Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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These repro switches are a pain up the backside,however if you are prepared to take the time and effort then they can be sorted, l have done a few now,you need to gently teesel the staking tangs on the metal case and lift out the inner housing,you will see that the contacts are moving too fare and going open curcuit, you can prevent this by bonding a 1.5 mm steel strip on the inside of the case to prevent this excessive travel.Once this is in place and secure cover the contacts with Vaseline in order to keep the bits in place,then carefully replace the plastic housing and re stake the case.
You will now have just two modes closed curcuit in the rest position and open curcuit in the activated position.
This is just how the original Lucas switch works, these repro switches are all wassel imports under the Lucas brand.
Regards Ken

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Assuming you are working on an A65. Did you see my lot for sale that includes two switches?
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/835949/fs-lot-4-a65-bits-35#Post835949

Last edited by KC in S.B.; 01/09/21 3:02 pm.

Down to 1 BSA, 2 Triumphs, 1 '56 Chevy
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FWIW, here's another solution. It's not very pretty, but it's been working for me for over thirty years, and if you have side panels, it's all but covered. The switch is a generic "universal" switch and is probably still available through British parts suppliers. (Note: On mine, the linkage piece is a "snap swivel", a fishing item.)
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Allan, it looks like you have two brake rods - what's up with that?


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
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Got one of those in the mentioned LOT also................


Down to 1 BSA, 2 Triumphs, 1 '56 Chevy
1 '65 XLCH, Hernia Gift, on the way to Japan!
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Originally Posted by Mark Z
Allan, it looks like you have two brake rods - what's up with that?


Clubman rearsets. But the front linkage can still use the correct style brake switch, I just chose to change the switch part, but easy to switch back.

The clubman is a push/pull system. You see some rear set brakes with a short brake rod from the lever, because the point of applied action is near the fulcrum of the swing arm it will pull on the lever when in motion. If your trying to use the brake it would be like ABS. The push system moves the point of Applied action To the original spot. The relationship between the longer brake rod, the switch bracket arm and the fulcrum for that linkage bracket is the same as the standard brake lever.

You do loose some effort by having the short clubman brake lever, and transfer of energy. Hence the multiple holes at this point in the bracket. I was trying different spots to get the best output from the least effort. The 5/16” short rod (1/4” shown in pic) made the biggest difference as the 1/4” was inclined to bend under hard braking.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Bob E Offline OP
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KC, that lot still available, if so I will take it. let me know Bob


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