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Myles Raymond
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koncretekid,

I drove the bike last in 1982 ... no modification prior to that. Not run since, just moved from place to place for nearly 40 years.

With right side (timing) cover off the clutch rod is loose - slides in and out - and pushed toward clutch side stops a few mil proud of the nut on that side.

Odd, though - prior to pulling the right cover off, the clutch appeared to be tight and operate ... then, after indexing the rack with the clutch arm at 1 o’clock, and reinstalling the cover, the clutch arm is loose.

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How much proud of that nut is a few mil? If you mean a couple of millimeters, which is .080", it should be set OK. But if it is only a couple thousandths of an inch, something is wrong. Did you try to adjust the screw and nut on the primary side? With both side covers on, and the cable loose, you need to loosen the lock nut on the adjusting screw and turn the screw in until it snugs up. Then back it out 1/4 turn and lock the nut whilst holding the screw from turning. I use a 7/16" socket held in vise-grips with a screwdriver thru the socket holding the screw from turning while tightening the nut with the vise-grips. Then snug up the cable adjustment to allow just a bit of free play. Then try the clutch handle, but do not force if it feels lock up, which indicates you'll have to take the clutch apart if it won't free up.
Tom


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Gah - should I be able to post photos? Here's google drive link - one shot shows clutch rod (6825), and others show indexed rack and operating arm positions - all look OK? Went together fine - not sealed, just checking function, then opened it back up.

The clutch rod move freely in and out.

I haven't pulled primary side cover yet, but clutch seemed to pull normally prior to pulling the timing side cover.

Given how far the rack moves, it would seem like the clutch rod should be sticking out farther?

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Did the clutch disengage before you removed / re fitted the timing side case? if so look for whatever you did wrong!!

I have had a case, in a long unused motor, where the pushrod itself was stuck. removing the adjusting screw / nut on primary side and gently tapping it out through to the timing side, followed by much cleaning and lubrication solved that issue,( there were MANY others!).

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Dave,

So, the flow was:
- reconnected the clutch cable a few days ago (I apparently disconnected all cables about 38 years ago :-))
- actuated via the lever, but didn't do anything else; had spring strength and all the play was used up in the cable
- removed the cable
- removed the timing side cover
- found kickstarter quadrant spring off - reclocked and reattached the spring
- cleaned a bit (actually looked like the photos linked - pretty amazing after 38 years)
- indexed the rack so actuator arm was at 1 o'clock
- put the ball bearing back in
- put the cover back on temporarily
- installed the kickstart lever temporarily
- clutch actuator would swing without engaging clutch
- took back apart
- found nada (photos)
- clutch actuator rod slides in and our easily

Mechanically, the actuator arm should move the rack and the ball bearing should meet the actuating rod which should move the clutch, yes?

Grrr ... will pull primary side next ...

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The short answer is yes to both your questions. The clutch rod should be proud of the nut on the mainshaft by a couple of millimeters.

I use Photoimage to post photos. Free so far. You sign up for an account, post your photos to that account, and then click on the photo you want to post. One of the options will be "share." A menu will be visible below the image. Click on the one that says "hotlink for forums" which will copy your image to your clipboard. The go to this forum and click post, which is command "V" on a Mac, like this.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Tom


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Originally Posted by koncretekid
The short answer is yes to both your questions. The clutch rod should be proud of the nut on the mainshaft by a couple of millimeters.

I use Photoimage to post photos. Free so far. You sign up for an account, post your photos to that account, and then click on the photo you want to post. One of the options will be "share." A menu will be visible below the image. Click on the one that says "hotlink for forums" which will copy your image to your clipboard. The go to this forum and click post, which is command "V" on a Mac, like this.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Tom


That's as clean and as functional-looking B50 as I've ever seen. Love the seat and tail treatment. I've always liked B50s, used to ride Ben Strain's when we'd swap bikes at the TSMR, but have never pulled the trigger on one for some reason ....

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hmmmm..... Not sure you are doing the indexing of the actuator arm right.

The arm should be at 1 o'clock once the timing side cover is in place. You assemble it complete with ball bearing guessing the correct position on the rack. Offer up the timing case and see how it looks. Repeat until you get it right and the arm is at 1 o'clock when it just touches the push rod. Then fit the cable and see if it works.

When you said "clutch actuator would swing without engaging clutch" do you actually mean "disengaging clutch" i.e. disconnecting the drive? or is the drive permanently disconnected?

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OK - great question, Dave ... I may have missed the part about the arm needing to be at 1 o’clock AFTER installation... duh.

Will check tomorrow!

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OK ... so Dave is right! Bad read of the procedure for me. Adjusted rack until was about 1 o’clock with cover in place ... won’t be to install stage for awhile, though. OK to use dab of grease on the ball bearing to keep it from falling out during final seal/install? (have dropped it twice so far)

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Yes, stiff grease is fine, oil never gets near there anyway so good for rust prevention.

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Oh no, the one occasion in my life to be right used up on someone else!
I had been saving that for nearly 40 years to use in an argument with "' 'er in doors".
Ah well, I suppose by now I am well used to being always wrong, it would have been nice though, just once .............

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Originally Posted by Dave Martin
Oh no, the one occasion in my life to be right used up on someone else!
Ah well, I suppose by now I am well used to being always wrong, it would have been nice though, just once .............
This song helps me when that happens.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/sear...amp;vid=ea8754d78ff8c3c0389d4ca1ad1161cb

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Florida BSA #834563 12/27/20 12:55 am
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That is a waaay funny song 😀

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Originally Posted by Florida BSA
That is a waaay funny song 😀
The fair sex gets away with too much these days.

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Hi-violet looks good to me

[Linked Image from b50.org]

Perhaps with a contrasting bright yellow or burnt orange panel on the tank smile

Edit to add: not my B50

Last edited by Dibnah; 01/03/21 12:29 pm.
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Didn't the original tank paint job have a black band around the tank at about a 30 degree angle, with gold pin-striping, with a gold BSA transfer inside the black band? Just from memory. That violet looks great.

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Dibnah - that is a beautiful bike!!!! Wow! Sent you a PM.

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Hi All,

So, bike is torn down to frame, engine, hoses, cable and electric - wiring looks good, soldered/fixed a couple of frazzled connections, know a bit more than I did about what is needed. My sense is there are some basic changes that most endorse, and some specific manufacturers and suppliers? I’ve read until I feel nearly blind.

In the end I want the bike to be close to stock, with changes as unnoticeable as possible - except the paint color - aack - just don’t like the purple - but Dibnah may have convinced me to keep it :-). Far prefer something like yellow or red with black and white striping.

Sorry such a long list, and I could stumble through, but would really appreciate thoughts based on your experience and knowledge!

I’m posting on both B50.org and on britbike.com - I appreciate any and all help and am not trying to game either site or group - I don’t really have opinions on any of the products discussed, just reflecting what I have read.


Questions:

1. Replace points/condenser with EI (BB Mk IV is most common discussed and appears to be solid choice?).

2. Rectifier and Zener with Rectifier/Regular (Boyer Bransden or Podtronics - advantage to staying with one manufacturer?)

3. Should I mount whichever R/R in airflow (some bolt under the battery) vice try and fit into the aluminum box?

4. Aluminum bits like side covers - sand and polish or vapor blast? (was considering sanding to 2000 grit or so, then polishing on bench machine)

5. How do I add loom to the wiring harness for those areas where it is deteriorated?

6. Preferred sealant for the timing side cover?

7. Preferred sealant for the gasket on the primary side cover?

8. Have a huge dent in the leading bend of the exhaust pipe - no spring on the pipe, and even with the bolt/net released on the frame, the pipe is SOLID - I have tapped it a bit with mallet, but seems SOLID. What method to release? Relatively inexpensive to replace, I think.

9. Should I add a heat sink ring on exhaust pipe header? Most photos don’t show this on B50 … is it needed?

10. I’ve got new oil sitting in the frame. Will rotating the engine over help relube anything or is oil pump not capable of moving oil at that rate of turn? Should I squirt some oil via the valve inspection caps?

11. Given the engine still in the frame, I would not be able to move solvent around in the frame, but would it be helpful to pull oil lines to engine and dump and drain a bit? Which solvent? Gasoline or mineral spirits?

12. Is there a template/instructions for the more classic striped tank that would assist in getting the paint tech?

Florida BSA #835298 01/03/21 12:18 pm
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Originally Posted by Florida BSA
Dibnah - that is a beautiful bike!!!! Wow! Sent you a PM.

Unfortunately it's not my bike. I'll edit the previous post for clarity.

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OK, so going through the list ....... this is purely what I eventually did on two B44 rebuilds ..... I say eventually, as both went through several iterations of options before completion. Many will disagree with my options.

1. I used the Vape ignition, cheaper than the BB and looks more robust, has been perfect since day one. DO NOT under estimate the level of vibration, being cast in resin means that bits will not vibrate lose.

2. Podtronics, works even when you wire it up wrong (don't ask .....)

3. Nice idea, I just fitted it under the saddle with the mud guard as a heat sink, and it has been alright ..... might move it.

4. I like shinny bits so I would polish.

5. Personally, I replaced both harnesses, made my own, there are not that many wires, ran them in long thick heat shrink. If you just need to re wrap, use spiral wrap or amalgamating rubber tape, get it in a Yacht shop as rigging tape .Copper gets brittle with vibration (eventually, see 1.) . Back in 1972 there was a shortage of the stuff in the U.K. and what was available was crap.

6. and 7. I have said several times. There are two kind of Brit bike owners, ones whos bikes leak oil and those that use RTV silicone, use grey and grease one face so it doesn't stick.

8. Heat and a bigger hammer.

9. Looks nice. Do it! P.S. getting the new exhaust to seal ...... Use the high temp RTV silicone and 1) it wont leak 2) it wont seize, I suspect yours is sealed with exhaust paste.

10. and 11. get one of those cheap pumps that fit on a drill .... 10 bucks ..... circulate kerosene, gasoline might prove somewhat exciting, though on the plus side, once the flames have died down at least the purple paint would be gone. I know the purple is original for the year BUT I cannot help but notice that this was just before BSA started pushing up daisies .... is there a link??

No doubt many will disagree with the above!

P.S. Get Rupert Ratio's books Volume 1 & 2

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For the stuck pipe, percussive therapy with a length of 2 x 4 end on behind the curl usually works.The wood is soft enough not to do real damage.
+1 for Rupert ratio, excellent.


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Originally Posted by gavin eisler
+1 for Rupert ratio, excellent.

sticker-Shock on the price of the books

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Thanks, Dave - pricing in US is about the same between the Wassell/VAPE and BB solutions - will take a look. Wish I could claim the idea of mounting R/R under the battery - got it from some reading - somewhere :-). I like the wire loom wrap idea better than trying to disconnect and relook with fabric. Help me with the idea of greasing one side of the cover/case with RTV on the other - or did you mean its gasket and RTV - if greased how does it seal face-to-face? Bigger hammer - it worked! Will evaluate how to build a recirc for the frame - I need to understand it better, anyway!

Thanks, Gavin - excellent advice - I tapped around the circumference and then got a longer piece of 2x4 to align with the insertion/release angle and whacked it with a much bigger hammer! Worked perfectly, thanks!

Relinking in case anyone wants to see photos of the dismantling process ...

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1VFyAOL_gVX3MCUR80lhOkcwDX4fdvXQk?usp=sharing

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Originally Posted by S-NJ-W
Originally Posted by gavin eisler
+1 for Rupert ratio, excellent.

sticker-Shock on the price of the books

Check out site sponsor BSA Unit Singles instead of Amazon, et al.

DJinCA

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