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jimmymckenna
jimmymckenna
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How to get them inserted in the slots? Some years ago I got a set of them from Goldstar Freddie, (RIP). Only now trying to install them and they ain't gonna go as is. I have one extra so the other day I sunk it in boiling hot water. Maybe left it too long, kind of turned to mush. Went in too easy and looks ugly. Couple days later that cork is nice and hard again, but looks bad. Looks like there is an awful lot would have to shed off for all the new ones to bed in nice. The appropriate service sheet says, "install new inserts".

So now I got the 24 left don't want to mess them up. If anyone has advice, Thanks!!

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Can you please talk in a common language?

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Yes, I suppose it's an esoteric exercise these days. 24 fat little Ferodo inserts don't go easily into the inside of the clutch basket.. Maybe over in the Goldstar folder?

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Well Leon

a few years back i made a set of corks for the clutch in my M20 .....i got some new wine corks , can you believe there are something like 5 grades of cork.......obviously get the best grade you can

i got a guy with a band saw to cut them to say 2-3mm oversize in all dimensions and THICKER .........then i put them in hot water just for a few minutes and squeezed them into the slots......waited for them to dry out and them put the plates in a lathe and machined the over size thickness down to the right thickness , front and back obviously

it worked out real well and the clutch is fine .......you wonder if cork is ok but it is think about the surface area in contact

corks would easily transfer enough power to handle a B33

have done around 6-7 k miles on M20 and the clutch hasnt even needed adjustment .........man the things we do


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Thanks, Ig. I'll get em in there somehow. These inserts I got are the real deal, got something in there besides just cork I think. Lots of A10s had the same clutch.

Actually getting them into the slots, the hot water worked on my trial...........I just want to try not to damage/weaken them. My B33 is gonna be powerful, man!

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Oh Leon i forgot to say that you have to use NATURAL cork ......not that reconstituted stuff which is thousands of chips glued together

i know the stuff you mean ....back in the day you could buy just a new set of inserts

to be honest the cork job i did worked out so well i would use that ...........it was endless stuffing around but the results were worth it .........can you belive the guy i got to cut up the corks is such an obsessive abiut bike stuff that he has actualy made a jig for sawing up corks with his bandsaw .....i *hit you not man

( i got the corks from a boutique wine bottling company and the manager at the company couldnt believe i sat there for hours going through this huge bin of corks looking for the really good ones )


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DANG Leon ..........i was prattling bout teh actual friction plates NOT the chain wheel i missed that detail but all the principle is the same


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Originally Posted by koan58
Can you please talk in a common language?

go and have a bath


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Yeah ,,,,,,,,everything i said about corking the plates would apply to the chain wheel ........cork would handle it no worries ......i mean they used cork on the 1000cc JAP motors in the 30s and those thing threw out a bit of torque ..........only leave the cork in hot water for say 5 min .....do a test piece first and only leave it in till jus just gets squisshy enough


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Fresh from my bath, what you say about re-corking ordinary clutch plates doesn't apply to the chain wheel at all, if it is like that shown in that link above

http://www.mapcycle.com/categories/...-chainwheel-clutch-6-spring-a10-bsa.html

That clearly shows that the corks have a lot of width keeping them on the pressure side of the basket, ie they are flanged so they cannot fall through the holes. Ignoraus has managed to do this in his own way, I can only imagine that he has jammed the corks sufficiently tightly in the basket that they perform the original function, for the time being. I cannot believe that is a long term solution.

Folk have been known to glue friction discs onto the back of the basket, just a thought.

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Koan--the corks are not flanged--they just expand just away from the aperture into which they are squeezed. This gives the impression of them having flanges but that is not the case.
I remember "back in the day" on a BSA A7SS with the corks worn down to nothing on the chain wheel---we drove out the old corks using a large pin punch.
Then in those days-- spare corks were available---soak them in hot water for some minutes and then press them in by hand to approximately the same depth.
Then sand down the backs of the corks using sand paper on plate glass and then with a large rod --a close fit in the chainwheel recess --fix sandpaper to the top of the rod, clamp the rod in a vice and then rotate the chainwheel to sand down the inner faces of the corks.
You end up with one just like new.
In those days I could just about afford new corks but a new chainwheel was out of the question.
Ignoramus has done a good job in the traditional way---good for him!

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Originally Posted by koan58
s. Ignoraus has managed to do this in his own way, I can only imagine that he has jammed the corks sufficiently tightly in the basket that they perform the original function, for the time being. I cannot believe that is a long term solution.

He did the job right.

Cork is the best material for a clutch that’s going to get oil on it.

Last edited by triton thrasher; 11/20/20 4:13 pm.

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Originally Posted by koan58
Fresh from my bath, what you say about re-corking ordinary clutch plates doesn't apply to the chain wheel at all, if it is like that shown in that link above

http://www.mapcycle.com/categories/...-chainwheel-clutch-6-spring-a10-bsa.html

That clearly shows that the corks have a lot of width keeping them on the pressure side of the basket, ie they are flanged so they cannot fall through the holes. Ignoraus has managed to do this in his own way, I can only imagine that he has jammed the corks sufficiently tightly in the basket that they perform the original function, for the time being. I cannot believe that is a long term solution.

Folk have been known to glue friction discs onto the back of the basket, just a thought.


1. Well the reason they do not "fall through is because they have a thick backing plate behind the clutch .
2. Secondly i made t clear that i cut the corks about 2-3 mm oversize and softened them and jammed them in
3, Thirdly you state "i cant believe its a long term fix" i stated that so far "have done around 6-7 k miles on M20 and the clutch hasnt even needed adjustment"

lots of the really old bikes AND CARS only had cork clutches man i hope someone told the Brough Superior engineers that it wouldnt work on their 1000cc Jap engines

BTW rationing is now over and you can use as much soap as you like ....you dont have to make one bar last 3 months anymore.



Tridentman , Trident thrasher ..

..thank you for acknowledging that i did something right its always nice when some one does that after i shagged around for hours and hours doing this job ........i mean driving all the way across town and sitting there al morning selecting only the best corks out of a stillage of 10s of thousands hahahah the things we do ...then getting someone to jig cut them to the sizes i specified on a band saw jig (interference fit) ........i guess i should have followed my own advice and brought a Honda

someone asked me why i mess around with this obsolete old junk i said " I do it because I can"

Cheers guys


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I found that long thread by Magnetoman on the 6 spring clutch. I'll plow through that later.


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