Fresh from my bath, what you say about re-corking ordinary clutch plates doesn't apply to the chain wheel at all, if it is like that shown in that link abovehttp://www.mapcycle.com/categories/...-chainwheel-clutch-6-spring-a10-bsa.html
That clearly shows that the corks have a lot of width keeping them on the pressure side of the basket, ie they are flanged so they cannot fall through the holes. Ignoraus has managed to do this in his own way, I can only imagine that he has jammed the corks sufficiently tightly in the basket that they perform the original function, for the time being. I cannot believe that is a long term solution.
Folk have been known to glue friction discs onto the back of the basket, just a thought.
1. Well the reason they do not "fall through is because they have a thick backing plate behind the clutch .
2. Secondly i made t clear that i cut the corks about 2-3 mm oversize and softened them and jammed them in
3, Thirdly you state "i cant believe its a long term fix" i stated that so far "have done around 6-7 k miles on M20 and the clutch hasnt even needed adjustment"
lots of the really old bikes AND CARS only had cork clutches man i hope someone told the Brough Superior engineers that it wouldnt work on their 1000cc Jap engines
BTW rationing is now over and you can use as much soap as you like ....you dont have to make one bar last 3 months anymore.
Tridentman , Trident thrasher ..
..thank you for acknowledging that i did something right its always nice when some one does that after i shagged around for hours and hours doing this job ........i mean driving all the way across town and sitting there al morning selecting only the best corks out of a stillage of 10s of thousands hahahah the things we do ...then getting someone to jig cut them to the sizes i specified on a band saw jig (interference fit) ........i guess i should have followed my own advice and brought a Honda
someone asked me why i mess around with this obsolete old junk i said " I do it because I can"