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#829772 11/14/20 3:25 am
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splash Offline OP
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How to adjust the slack in chain when break assembly is up against tyre adjustment bolt?

https://ibb.co/47dLDtd

Thanks.


1970 Triumph tiger owner
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Sounds like the chain is stretched to the max and is worn out.


1968 T120R
1972 T120RV
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I spent ages looking at this when I first got my bike trying to figure out why it appeared that the primary side adjuster movement was used up even with a new chain fitted. The chain adjuster fits over the wheel spindle so doesn’t move independently of the brakeplate (not backwards and forwards anyway), the threaded part always seems to be very close to the brake lever spring. When you adjust the nuts to tighten the chain the entire wheel including the adjuster move backwards. Provided you have enough threads on the adjuster you should be ok.

Having said that as you move the wheel backwards the brake plate will need to rotate clockwise a bit so the torque arm can be refitted, this might bring the brake lever spring into contact with the threaded part of the adjuster.

I hope I’ve got that right, that’s how it appeared to work when I first tried to adjust an old chain and then fitted a new one. Seemed a very complicated arrangement to achieve a simple task.


1972 T100R
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You're right Chris! Geeeez, Triumph made so many tight clearances that it sometimes plays tricks on the mechanics.

Desco, yeah, I need new chain but I need to tighten this one up while I wait for new to get shipped here.


Anyone had any unfortunate experience, or know someone who has, with the chain breaking while cruising? I'm afraid a lil bit to be honest.


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Hi splash, As was stated the bolt moves with axle. However sometimes you have to shorten bolt slightly. It seems some are closer than others.

I find it best to adjust chain on center stand. Read over shop manual. On the side stand the shocks hardly even compress. The chain gets shorter ( less slack as the swing are gets to horizontal plane with trans sprocket, then looser again as suspension is compressed more.

If chain is too tight it's very hard on the bearings in gear box & wheel, not to mention the chain. #1 cause of chain coming apart is clip installed backwards. Or... is it lack of lube causing worn/tight links? There is no excuse for either.

How did the clutch work out?
Don


1973 Tiger 750
splash #829798 11/14/20 12:12 pm
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Hey Don, clutch is working fine now. Fingers crossed the 3 new screws don't back out after red loctite on them. I popped clutch cable at the very end of that job but went down to the boat harbor and replaced by putting stainless cable in the clutch cable sleeve. It popped I believe because I had the cable too tight making this pinging sound. Now it has a little slop for about the first inch of pull then gets tight. I couldn't get the 1/8 inch play on the lever without it pinging from somewhere inside the primary cover so I loosened up until the pinging stopped so now im dealing with some slop in the lever [shrugging my shoulders].

I can only find about the lubrication and maintenance of the rear chain in the manual. What is the slack tolerance on the rear chain? Mine seems super loose while on a jack, rear tire off the ground, its loose enough to push over enough and just touches the rear tire. My father broke off the center stand many years ago so I dont have that option to put on center stand. I just have to jack it up just off center of gravity.

Also, I'm running straight pipes now. Should I get a bigger carb jet or richen the mixture?

Last edited by splash; 11/14/20 12:55 pm.

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splash #829802 11/14/20 12:54 pm
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SPLASH: go to the forum "British Motorcycles in General" on this site,
Scroll down to the item "To Measure Free Play in your Drive Chain,' the last posting of which was 10/10. 2020 at 8:17 PM.

If there isn't an answer for you THERE, check in HERE again.

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Originally Posted by Irish Swede
SPLASH: go to the forum "British Motorcycles in General" on this site,
Scroll down to the item "To Measure Free Play in your Drive Chain,' the last posting of which was 10/10. 2020 at 8:17 PM.

If there isn't an answer for you THERE, check in HERE again.


helpful but eggs are expensive here, all kinds of eggs. smile


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I'm not from Hawaii. I don't get it.

What's with the comment about "eggs?"

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Originally Posted by splash
...helpful but eggs are expensive here, all kinds of eggs. smile
Price out a new chain and sprockets. ;-)


1970 T120R - 'Anton'
1970 Commando - 'Bruno'
1967 T120R - 'Caesar'
1968 Lightning - 'Dora'
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Hi splash, rear wheel off ground, slack is 1-3/4” at loosest point on chain. Measured at mid point of chain run.

What I do is this. Rotate wheel backwards. You’ll notice the lower run will raise & fall a little. You can push up on chain at different places & verify loosest spot also.

Put a dab of grease or loosest spot on a chain link to mark it.

Center of front sprocket is the rod adjustment plug. Center of rear sprocket is the rear axle. Stand back & look for center. That’s the measure point.

I put tape measure on floor, it will balance. Pull tape up & lock it. Tape will be between chain & tire.

Pull chain down firmly with finger. Sight chain to tape measure & record reading. Push chain up firmly with thumb & take reading. That is the play.

Pushing chain with all your strength only changes play slightly so you don’t need to worry about splitting hairs on how hard to push.

To adjust chain slacken both brake stay bolts. Loosen axle nut. Move axle. As needed. Tighten all fasteners. Don’t forget to tighten brake stay bolts!! A
Check rear brake adjustment.

The chain will seem too loose. But that’s correct. If you remove rear shocks you could move swing arm & observe how slack changes as swing arm moves.

Again on its wheels will still be 1-3/4” or close to it. Have heavy person sit on bike to compress shocks after you take off jack. Now you can see why the 1-3/4 is correct.

Regarding your clutch, the way it’s adjusted now is not right. Check plug for rod & make sure adjustment screw is not rubbing.

Do what you want but my recommendation is get Barnett cable. Shop around & pay the shipping. Hang new cable & lube with motor oil overnight. Cut hole in baggie & tape to cable. Barnett is best in world bar none. It has swaged steel ends, not soldered.
We’ll go over adjustment again later.

It is normal to hear clutch parts move inside primary especially when on side stand motor stopped.

If it clicks from right side your cable did not have enough play during rod adjustment or the ball cam is worn out. Usually at center hole.
Don


1973 Tiger 750
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Originally Posted by Irish Swede
What's with the comment about "eggs?"

Oh soweee, I thought you read that thread. They, in that thread, joke about using an egg for putting the right amount of tension on chain while pushing up on it. Push up until egg cracks then they go on about the type of egg which should be used on to making sure the chain is not spinning unless you want scrambled eggs.

I hope egg doesn't come between our friendship Irish Swede smile




Thanks for the info Don!


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Originally Posted by splash
Anyone had any unfortunate experience, or know someone who has, with the chain breaking while cruising? I'm afraid a lil bit to be honest.

That is something that you really don't want to happen at cruise and would be a very bad day for you and the bike. That said, I doubt a chain would snap at cruise, more under torque. I broke one doing a burn out and trashed a crankcase. While you're at it check your primary chain adjustment and condition also. That can be another bad day.

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I solve this problem by making a new torque arm thats 1/2 inch longer.


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