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KC in S.B.
KC in S.B.
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The new Lucas branded copies will fit either way. I initially thought like you and fitted the long ones in the rear, but the original light unit I bought came with original but scabby indicators. Those were of the short variety. On the originals they had nuts a both ends which I think make the stems appear shorter still.

I’m going to be fitting disc type forks which are nearly and inch wider and probably over emphasise the length of the long stems.

After a recent purchase I now have a full set of scabby units. I might look into having them rechromed.


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"OP.... in that photo, it looks to me like the bike has short on both front and back. Also.... in the parts book I think you will find that they only show the front ones, but list quantity at 4 indicating front and rear are the same. Just be aware.... as mentioned above, if you order knockoffs, you might need a thinner lock nut for the front."

Thanks Cyborg, that's good to know (about the fix for short stem). Yes, I see now that it says quantity "4". Didn't notice that. The number though is 56147 and the salesperson is saying they have 56167 (as the short one). Fingers crossed. -BA


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Originally Posted by BAinLA
The number though is 56147 and the salesperson is saying they have 56167 (as the short one).

There were several variations of stem and thread length originally, not all of which are available now plus the design changed where the stem fits into the (chromed plastic) lamp housing.

56147
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/17954
(127mm I think should be the length inc. thread)

Edit: http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/Brochures/1970/71Models.pdf

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/17955

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/17974

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/17973



The Lucas copies can be different again in stem length.

Edit: As Cyborg mentioned, the threaded section can be too short where the stem is also the headlamp pivot.

Last edited by L.A.B.; 11/11/20 11:12 pm.
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Thanks L.A.B. Nice links and thanks for the info. I'll post back when I get these and get them installed. -BA


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Thanks to all you guys that posted suggestions on my thread here.

I've put about 300 miles on this bike and it is really a sweet running machine, definitely a keeper. Having fun running Mulholland (look it up on YouTube), running it up the local mountains (Angel's Crest) and running errands, doc appointments etc.
Sometimes I miss a gear on the downshift 5-4 or 4-3 but if I use just the right amount of pressure on the shifter, I catch each gear every time.
Things to fix; I noticed that the ignition points spark occasionally when viewed with the cover removed and if memory serves (rarely these days), I think that means a bad condenser(?). Or maybe some loose connection. Also oil is leaking into the points area so some seal back there is bum.
Cosmetically it is embarrassing and I guess I will have to paint the fenders, tank and side covers and add the decals. Frame will have to wait or be painted in sections just to hide the ugly. My neighbor, a 90 Lb. chick you rides a massive Harley, says to leave it a rat bike. If I sell it (not any time soon!) it might be worth more as a "survivor" than a semi-restored or customized bike. Those butt-ugly side covers need paint though in any event. Thanks again, Brian

Last edited by BAinLA; 01/23/21 1:44 am.

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Just a word of advice.... once you open a can of paint, you're probably screwed.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]9A468266-FF7B-49C5-BFA0-15577E4DF1E7 by First Last, on Flickr

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That is very nice indeed! But does it say "Made in England" on the front down tube? (jk) Honestly, paint is something I have 0 experience with and would probably sand and use a rattle can. Probably no stripes, no graphics, just black like my '69 Bonnie. But wow, yours is beautiful. Did you paint it yourself? -BA


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My RE Interceptor had been repainted sometime in it's life in a rather attractive but non-factory color. As I like the 'new' color I decided to just have a missing tool box lid painted to match the rest of the bike vs painting everything.
Custom mixed paint = $117 for a pint.
Granted, I have enough to paint the rest of the painted parts now but...yikes!

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Originally Posted by BAinLA
That is very nice indeed! But does it say "Made in England" on the front down tube? (jk) Honestly, paint is something I have 0 experience with and would probably sand and use a rattle can. Probably no stripes, no graphics, just black like my '69 Bonnie. But wow, yours is beautiful. Did you paint it yourself? -BA

Thanks... It started out with a plan to make it into a beater just to ride around the neighbourhood. I painted the frame with a brush and although it was far from perfect, it turned out looking better than expected. Then it just snowballed from there. The tank isn’t the original from the bike, just one that’s been kicking around, but other that a couple of dings, it looks fine. I tried cleaning up things like the exhaust. The pipes came out ok, but the mufflers were ugly so they got replaced at $150 each which isn’t bad and they are actually quite ok for the money. Front fender was painted with a rattle can, the side covers were powder coated, rear fender was just touched up. It has plates and insurance on it, but waiting for the monsoon season to end.

Ps... didn’t know it was supposed to have a Made in England decal on there..... not that it’s going to get one.

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The "Made in England" decal is $4

Made in England Transfer

My original still shows.

Unfortunately THIS is what I am working with;

001.JPG 002.JPG 003.JPG 004.JPG 005.JPG

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BAinLA #837843 Yesterday at 02:54 AM
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I’d really be tempted to leave it more or less as is. Maybe replace the seat cover and I’m not fond of that muffler style. This is where I got mine and your USD will go a little further. New would look a little out of place... it would be better to find some used ones. Unfortunately my old ones are not worth the cost of shipping. One of the reasons why Triumph started suffering from mission creep is because if it looks nice and is more or less period correct, you can register it with collector plates. The money saved on insurance is enough to pay for a lot of parts.
By all means paint if you want... doing the frame is a bit of an undertaking though. Good luck whatever you decide.

https://www.walridge.com/

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I just ordered a cover for the seat at $59. I think I will paint those side covers but after that I will be sorely tempted to do the fenders AND the tank but the question will be; Restore to factory colors or go for Black. I like both and the factory colors will bring more in resale IMO. -BA


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BAinLA #837956 Yesterday at 11:17 PM
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Lotus Pacific Blue, but some say you need a gold/bronze base coat to get the desired colour, so not the easiest to duplicate?

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Thanks Cyborg. I will have to research that color when/if the time comes. For now it's gloss black for the covers and I may get the decals just to look original.
But really just thinking about the seat cover. Wondering how hard it will be to get it on correctly and if my foam will be OK. We'll see soon. -Brian


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And brush off that rust and paint those cylinders !


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Top priority, new fork stanchions and oil seals, the repops for these are pretty good, once the seat is recovered it will look a lot less scabby.
The forks are fairly easy to rebuild, in the UK new stanchions and seals are about 100 punds.


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Yes, I will do that too. I did scrape off the really bad crud now to finish the job.


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I hadn't thought of that, not yet anyway. The forks work perfectly and I haven't even changed the ancient oil. I didn't want to rock the boat. Maybe modern ATF Type F (per the manual) will suddenly cause a leak. For now they seem fine. But yeah, as I work through the various systems I will address this area.

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