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I've seen similar debris come out the tank after a good shake out which is worrying but it looks like the oxalic acid has done its work removing rust. I guess the question now is what you do next? You could just leave as is or use a tank sealer to ensure any pinholes are sealed and prevent any further rust. It might be worth giving the tank a wash out with phosphoric acid to provide a phosphate layer which will help stop further corrosion for a while.

Regarding cleaning the pilot jet etc. you may already have seen the Bushmans Carb Tuning site Here which confirms #78 drill size is correct for cleaning the pilot jet. They also mention checking the needle jet which needs a #36 drill as a go/no go indicator for showing any wear in this area.

Last edited by gunner; 10/16/20 6:02 pm.

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Originally Posted by gunner
I've seen similar debris come out the tank after a good shake out which is worrying but it looks like the oxalic acid has done its work removing rust. I guess the question now is what you do next? You could just leave as is or use a tank sealer to ensure any pinholes are sealed and prevent any further rust. It might be worth giving the tank a wash out with phosphoric acid to provide a phosphate layer which will help stop further corrosion for a while.

Regarding cleaning the pilot jet etc. you may already have seen the Bushmans Carb Tuning site Here which confirms #78 drill size is correct for cleaning the pilot jet. They also mention checking the needle jet which needs a #36 drill as a go/no go indicator for showing any wear in this area.

As far as I know the POR metal prep is just phosphoric acid. In any event it does leave a protective layer and you don’t get any instant corrosion after you give it the final rinse with water. Surprisingly... given the amount of crap that came out of there, the tank still seems pretty solid. No leaks after 4 or 5 days with the acid bath. There are obviously some craters in the bottom, so in spite of that fact that it seems solid, I’ll use a liner. Thinking it will just be a rattle can paint job, but probably better to line it now. The downside to all this cleaning is every muscle in my back hurts from shaking that thing for so long... the upside is that the tank only stinks half as bad.

Thanks for the link gunner.

Last edited by Cyborg; 11/16/20 3:48 pm.
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I now have a spare clothes dryer to transform into a tank cleaning machine. Simply pour a concoction into the tank, add a handful of bolts, wrap in foam sheeting, taped, then wrap in cardboard or old towels, taped into a bundle that will just fit into the dryer door. Insert on "no heat" setting, and tumble for an hour.

Last edited by GrandPaul; 10/17/20 3:20 pm.

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May I be as bold to suggest you use sheet wall screws.
John

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According to the parts list for 72 TR6 the colour is Polychromatic blue but getting an exact match is going to be tricky.

Looking on the Norton owners website Here, the mix for Polychromatic Blue on a Norton Manx-man is mentioned and is a gold base followed by a Lotus pacific Blue topcoat. Whether this is correct for you bike is anyone's guess but maybe worth trying. Some paint codes are also mentioned which may be more accurate than a named colour.


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As far as I know, NO ONE has produced a comprehensive modern paint code list that equates each code to it's original classic Triumph factory paint name.

I'd LOVE to have that list; I'd cross-post it on AT LEAST a dozen of the most popular forums, groups, and pages on the web...


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Originally Posted by John Healy
May I be as bold to suggest you use sheet wall screws.
John

Certainly.... in my case, I would have used them if there were any in inventory. With the current situation, I’m trying to avoid people even more than usual. The roofing nails worked ok except that I dumped the whole bag in and that included a bunch of zinc bits left over from the manufacturing process. The nails were easy to get out, but the tiny bits wanted to stay in there.

Hugh sent a link (for a different site) that referenced that discussion about the paint code which included this : Paint Code A68- A089B6196V Lotus Pacific Blue, which Is apparently the nearest match to polychromatic blue used on 1972 Triumphs”. They go on to say it should be sprayed on over a gold base coat.
Anyway.... braving the outside world and going to pick some up. Was going to use rattle cans, but given the application isn’t exactly straight forward I decided to get it formulated for use in a gun. Hopefully I can come up with something that will pass muster. Paining isn’t on my favourites list.

Stuck the decals on...haven’t done that in a long time....wasn’t sure how long to soak them, but it worked out to be good enough.


[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]F32A0D76-7974-468C-B8D4-679344D834B9 by First Last, on Flickr

Last edited by Cyborg; 10/17/20 5:32 pm.
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Originally Posted by GrandPaul
As far as I know, NO ONE has produced a comprehensive modern paint code list that equates each code to it's original classic Triumph factory paint name.

I'd LOVE to have that list; I'd cross-post it on AT LEAST a dozen of the most popular forums, groups, and pages on the web...

I’ve forgotten most of what I did know on the subject which wasn’t much to start with. From my limited experience which is of the Japanese variety, the manufacturer didn’t make the actual paint code used for mixing. Like you say, they had a name/code that was used for reference and you would see it in parts manuals or on a tag attached to the vehicle. The manufacturer would send colour plates out to all the different paint manufacturers and they would match it and establish their own formulas. The process may have changed by now. On a side note, I did get into one of the factory paint booths. Booth isn’t really a good description as the area is quite large and you...if you’re human, wear nice clean coveralls and enter through an airlock. While inside the airlock, you get thoroughly “blown off” by a series of air jets.... good thing they warned me. I was informed that it was quite an honour to be inside there and humans generally aren’t allowed.


Making cables today, so thought I would give a plug for this flux. It makes the job so much easier. There are no doubt similar products out there, but if you are using that paste flux, then you are missing out. Excuse the crappy solder pot.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]E92FD588-AB21-438D-B93C-A6FC04A2635F by First Last, on Flickr

New gauge bracket and rubber mount arrived for the tach. When attaching the cable it became apparent that the threads were slightly knackered. Actually had a die.. well 2 dies from a previous project that were the correct size. Took a chance and just spun the die on and chased the threads. Fortunately the die aligned itself and followed the old threads.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]F2F52BBD-A739-4945-82EB-74E3BEC30C7C by First Last, on Flickr

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]EFA9908F-B8C9-45B7-8724-381FC58E0E34 by First Last, on Flickr

Picked up the Lotus Pacific Blue Paint, but it likes a warm booth..... will wait for a warmer day, so it’s easier to heat the cubbyhole I call a paint booth. It’s also the start of the monsoon season, so humidity is up..... not sure if that makes a difference with this stuff.

Last edited by Cyborg; 10/18/20 6:42 pm.
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I usually find a damp day is worse for painting than a cold one. If your painting in a shed or garage it’s easy enough to get it warm but not so easy to keep the moisture down, even with a dehumidifier.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Wondered about humidity because it drove me nuts when painting the boat hull with a polyurethane. Paint would flow out perfectly as long as the humidity was within reason. Haven’t looked to see what this stuff is. Bought the recommended reducer at the same time.


[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]869BDEA4-5900-482C-9EE3-AB71C2F90E09 by First Last, on Flickr


[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]4ABCBE3D-0DC8-4F66-97AA-88F63A4E2813 by First Last, on Flickr

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[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]4A75DD05-6C86-4B5F-9D71-597D6DE2FF36 by First Last, on Flickr


[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]6DFA3B6C-70F9-488A-BBC3-E41BEBB8EB72 by First Last, on Flickr

Got a little warm, but has the required penetration. Ugly, but being machined off anyway.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]39124BE9-84A8-4637-9D16-F5064C8868FA by First Last, on Flickr

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So obviously I’m missing something in the short stalk vs long stalk thing. I assume that the long stalks are for the rear because the mount is narrower than the headlight bucket. So with the rather fat nut on the short stalk, there isn’t sufficient exposed thread to go through the special washer, headlight bracket and thread into the bucket properly. The long stalks.... have a much longer threaded section, so not an issue. Didn’t want to run a die down the stalk to extend the threads because it would remove chrome and create the possibility of bare steel being exposed. They are just copies of the Lucas ones, so maybe they took some liberties with the term copy?

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]298628A4-F2C9-4E7C-BF1B-BC56BDCB8DC1 by First Last, on Flickr

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]E6B0F5B9-6F2E-4C53-A1BA-4D2078F20D9C by First Last, on Flickr

Sifting through photos on an old laptop, I found a couple from the day of purchase.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]2A68A5CE-6C45-459E-8B8A-6D554EC78BB7 by First Last, on Flickr

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]DD25B6C2-7B6C-4DF3-92F9-3834FCD23F01 by First Last, on Flickr

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Not quite sure what to make of this. That’s the way it arrived. Not sure why... maybe to get more life out of the linings? Didn’t measure them when the wheel was off , but at a glance they looked fine. Switching the lever suggests that they are worn beyond the service limit, which means new shoes or lining and buying a new return spring because they are different based on rotation.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]8A7EE204-6D4E-43C8-AEF2-771A9C5F3BBF by First Last, on Flickr

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Might be worth removing the brake arm and seeing which cam it has fitted.

If it has the square cam location and arm then It’s the downward slung type. If it’s the type with 2 flats and 2 rounded ends then it’s the cam and arm which should point upwards.

It’s hard to think the shoes could be so far worn that they need that much adjustment. But also I have never flipped the cam upside down on a upside down type system to know whether the arm would point at 6,7 or in the 8 o’clock position.


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71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Thanks Alan, appreciate the reply.

Turns out it has the two flats and two round. The way the brake rod fit seemed odd to me when I was reassembling it, but didn’t really think much about it until I noticed a photo in the owners manual. The brake plate has the hole for the spring in both webs, so it’s ambidextrous. I tried flipping the arm around, but the spring won’t work and by the time slack is taken up, the arm is well past the 90 degree mark. Currently it “functions” in the down position (a little closer to 90), but not sure what if any effect that has on braking without pulling the brake plate off and staring at it for a while.
I’m guessing it will be good enough for the initial shake down run. As mentioned, the linings didn’t look that bad, but something isn’t quite right.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]0FC6344F-B62E-404B-86B4-6763EF6B0BA1 by First Last, on Flickr

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]20B58E94-2D5A-4CF7-A1BF-E341FAEA8F41 by First Last, on Flickr

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Not sure why.. but wasn’t expecting any British threads except for maybe tank emblems. Guessing the primary cover is from something older? Anyway.. it needed 2BA for the inspection cover. Not wanting to wait 10 days and pay lord knows what with postage, I discovered you can run a 2BA die down 10 32 machine screws and come out with something resembling threads. Good enough for the cover. Time well.....spent, as opposed to time well spent.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]332BA088-35E0-470F-9A7E-31BC2336DCFD by First Last, on Flickr

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Originally Posted by Cyborg
I discovered you can run a 2BA die down 10 32 machine screws and come out with something resembling threads.
_________ dia. ____ pitch
2BA ____ 0.1850" __ 0.0319"
10-32 ___ 0.1875" __ 0.0313"

Are you should you couldn't have just used the 10-32 screws as-is? The difference in diameter is only 0.0025", and If 5 threads made contact the difference only would be 0.003", and surely there's that much slop in the screws. Canadian made ones, that is, possibly not ones made in the U.S...

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I tried MMans suggestion a few years ago on a couple of Concentrics where the 2BA threads were pretty loose.
The 10-32 screws would not go in so I had to run a 10-32 tap through.
(I think if I remember correctly the thread angles are different).
Was fine then.

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Originally Posted by Magnetoman
Originally Posted by Cyborg
I discovered you can run a 2BA die down 10 32 machine screws and come out with something resembling threads.
_________ dia. ____ pitch
2BA ____ 0.1850" __ 0.0319"
10-32 ___ 0.1875" __ 0.0313"

Are you should you couldn't have just used the 10-32 screws as-is? The difference in diameter is only 0.0025", and If 5 threads made contact the difference only would be 0.003", and surely there's that much slop in the screws. Canadian made ones, that is, possibly not ones made in the U.S...

I tried using the 10-32, but they wouldn’t start in the holes even though they are “wallered out” a bit from that thing they call shop patina. Wouldn’t work for the tank emblem holes either. I actually never looked them up to see what the difference is and with these, you can actually see the difference. I’m rapidly approaching my 2 beer limit, so had to use callipers with the big #’s. I zero’d on the 10-32 (rather than try to deal with subtraction) and what you see is the difference between that and a recently store bought 2BA. Store bought because I couldn’t figure out where I hid the BA dies until tonight. I shaved off a fair amount of material and the 10-32’s were surprisingly tough going even with the die spread to the max. Some sort of stainless.

The saga continues..... I went through all this rigmarole because the originals had disappeared. After hoisting this thing off the bench and back onto the floor. I start shining a light on the bench looking for the tiny grub screw that fell out of the die holder. And what do I see..... one of the original screws peeking out from under the arbor press. Peek under the press and there are the other two. It seems to be a law of nature...... like when you save something for years thinking it will come in handy for something. Not until you finally toss it out will it’s use become evident. It’ll turn out to be the missing firing pin from that family heirloom that you feel like shooting yourself in the head with.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]77439323-F80F-450D-97FF-426522C4C064 by First Last, on Flickr

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]4A54AC96-DF92-4173-AF5D-61B9554A7C87 by First Last, on Flickr


Ps... no idea where these 10-32 came from. My brother brought them years ago. Not Robertson, so probably not Canadian.
Just to make sure they weren’t mislabeled, I ran one through a 10-32 die. They are a snug fit, but definitely 10-32.

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Originally Posted by Tridentman
The 10-32 screws would not go in so I had to run a 10-32 tap through. (I think if I remember correctly the thread angles are different).
Was fine then.
You're correct Tm, BA is 47-1/2 degree, 10-32 is 60 degree. That's probably why a 10-32 wouldn't thread in 'til you chased it with the tap. 2BA pitch is 31.4tpi.

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Originally Posted by Cyborg
..
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2k1hs6a][Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]
Have you got a Scott around there somewhere? That self aligning bearing.

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Originally Posted by Tridentman
The 10-32 screws would not go in
Originally Posted by Cyborg
I tried using the 10-32, but they wouldn’t start in the holes
Originally Posted by Stuart Kirk
BA is 47-1/2 degree, 10-32 is 60 degree.That's probably why a 10-32 wouldn't thread
Clearly, Cyborg and TM need to whack the screws a little harder with their hammers to get them started, and then use bigger screwdrivers to finish the job. However, they won't have to waste any of their Loctite to keep the screws (or the remnants of them...) in place.

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Originally Posted by Magnetoman
Originally Posted by Tridentman
The 10-32 screws would not go in
Originally Posted by Cyborg
I tried using the 10-32, but they wouldn’t start in the holes
Originally Posted by Stuart Kirk
BA is 47-1/2 degree, 10-32 is 60 degree.That's probably why a 10-32 wouldn't thread
Clearly, Cyborg and TM need to whack the screws a little harder with their hammers to get them started, and then use bigger screwdrivers to finish the job. However, they won't have to waste any of their Loctite to keep the screws (or the remnants of them...) in place.


Look underneath the calliper..

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Originally Posted by Stuart Kirk
Originally Posted by Cyborg
..
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2k1hs6a][Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]
Have you got a Scott around there somewhere? That self aligning bearing.


From Inter/Manx for the OHC gibbons. I should really clean them up and put them out of harms way. I bought new ones, but don’t know if they can still be had. Definitely getting scarce and what is there collecting dirt might some day end up being better than nothing. Not that I will wear out the new ones.

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Taillight bracket arrived after a long journey from Oz. Powder coated and installed. Wiring is complete, but looks kind of busy..... dedicated grounds running everywhere... probably a hold over from the wood boat days. Replacement ignition switch doesn’t look all that robust, so it just feeds power to the ignition module and a relay, which feeds everything else.

Didn’t have decent fuel tap fittings, so made some rather than wait. A bit of a waste from a time/material point of view, but enjoy making things and the fuel line is a nice snug fit.

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]6ADC9BEE-CE12-4BD8-B563-E4E57E7D1DED by First Last, on Flickr

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]EC29504C-F700-41D3-A15C-E7C07A504250 by First Last, on Flickr

[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]1CEDEDAF-62BF-41B8-A6B5-FFF2C0F5147A by First Last, on Flickr

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