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A.k.a Homer
A.k.a Homer
Ponoka ,Alberta,Canada
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Originally Posted by Bob E
I have to due this job on my 68 Spitfire. take clutch apart.

Bob. the only reason why this was a problem for me was that the cush drive had rusted onto the splines of the tapered piece that both the clutch runs on and transmits the drive to the gearbox. Folks here tell me that the cush drive normally slides off.

However, if you are taking the clutch apart just to address some aspect of the clutch, you won't need to strip it down that far.

Last edited by S-NJ-W; 10/26/20 5:49 pm. Reason: clarity
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Worth checking that it is a sliding fit (not a sloppy fit) when you put it back together also. If you have to belt it with a hammer then your going to have fun getting it apart.

A small sonic bath with some decon90 (or other products, ie citrus based) is great for getting rid of the tiny bits of crap and light corrosion which build up on the faces without you having to get the files out.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
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Originally Posted by Allan G
If you have to belt it with a hammer ...

Allan, I am on the seven step program to put all of that behind me...

Last edited by S-NJ-W; 11/06/20 8:21 pm. Reason: spelling
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I had a real stubborn one once that I was using the puller on. Soaked for days in penetrating oil, heat, etc. Whacking it on the puller bolt end wasn't working but I finally gave the puller lever a clockwise smack with the hammer and it came off.


1966 BSA Lightning
(2) 1967 Triumph "Choppa"s
1974 Indian ME125
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This seems like a good opportunity to get on the terminology bandwagon. It would be much easier to discuss this topic if we were to use consistent terminology instead of referring to parts as "that tapered thing" or "that splined thing", or using the terms "hub" and "centre" interchangeably.

So, I propose that we use the terms used in the "BSA Spares" factory manual. I'm using the 1966 manual for reference, and hoping they didn't change from year to year. So here we go:

- Part number 68-3275, which is the outer shell of what we often refer to as the "cush drive", is called "Clutch Centre".

- Part number 68-3277, the part which is a taper-fit on the tranny mainshaft and which supports the other parts, is called "Clutch Sleeve".


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
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I got my pressure plate off and the 12 plates came out pretty easy and they look in good shape, new. how much did your chain wheel move with the plates out? did it wobble around a bit if you grabbed it and moved it? mine does.

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Yeah it wobbles. You shouldn't be able to move it laterally though.

Check the tabs on the discs; they tend to wear out before the abrasive material. If they're worn they bang in the chainwheel grooves and start to notch the grooves. Plates are usually ok as long as they're flat.

Just about everyone's chainwheel is notched to some degree unless it's very new. A bit of notching is tolerable, a lot starts to interfere with the motion of the discs.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
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Well done it's like deja vu just doing the same on a T140 and it's starting to become a marathon and a expensive one at that now for the re-build thumbsup

Cheers Dave


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