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#827367 10/21/20 8:49 am
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Through my three score years and ten lifetime I have had the opportunity to consider many of life’s big questions. Is god a man made concept, are we just worm food, what is the purpose of a wasp, electronic or points, is Trump for real, I could go on. However there is one of life’s questions which continues to baffle mankind. What is the best oil. Surely this is a subject for a Nobel prize to get the definitive answer. Never mind all the diversions about oil pressure or filter types. The world needs an answer.

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Synthetic, extra virgin first pressing.


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Originally Posted by triton thrasher
Synthetic,
+1.

Originally Posted by triton thrasher
extra virgin first pressing.
Otoh, personally I prefer ones that've had some experience.

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Originally Posted by Stuart
Originally Posted by triton thrasher
extra virgin first pressing.
Otoh, personally I prefer ones that've had some experience.

Perhaps not if her name is Olive.

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Originally Posted by DJinCA
Originally Posted by Stuart
Originally Posted by triton thrasher
extra virgin first pressing.
Otoh, personally I prefer ones that've had some experience.

Perhaps not if her name is Olive.

Or if she’s synthetic.


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So we all know that the thin runny synthetic for modern bikes is a big no no. If there is a synthetic for old four strokes let's hear about it. And what about the zinc content (or lack of it)?

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The question was answered on Norton Access forum some time ago, I don't remember what oils were chosen as best, but there were a few of them. Mobil 1 for V twin engines, Valvoline was one of them if I remember correctly, but for my T150V I use BMW M series engine oil which now is Castrol Edge 10W60, and 2 years ago was Liqui Moly 10W60 which I still have in my engine. Both full synthetic and engine works nice on them. Today at 15 C oil pressure on idle was 40 psi, above 2500 rev /.min in the eighties.

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Marvel Mystery Oil. The question is not a mystery any more.


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All are good, just strain the chips out first.


https://www.yourbestpicks.com/best-synthetic-motor-oils/

Last edited by NickL; 10/22/20 5:49 am.
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Originally Posted by NickL
All are good, just strain the chips out first.


https://www.yourbestpicks.com/best-synthetic-motor-oils/

They seem to have gained their oil expertise by reading advertisements.


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Originally Posted by Steven A
So we all know that the thin runny synthetic for modern bikes is a big no no. If there is a synthetic for old four strokes let's hear about it. And what about the zinc content (or lack of it)?

I use Fuchs Comp4 a 20/50 4 stroke synthetic Ester based oil. Designed for motorbike engines.

Never had a problem with it.

Until recently I ran Their 10-40 Version. Unlike a Sae40 mineral oil which would have the engine sounding very tappety on a hot day... this 10-40 never did.

V-twin oils are usually suited to our old british iron. They also don’t have the friction modifiers like synthetics and are designed to be used with wet clutches.


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Re: the purpose of a wasp.

They feed on those pesky caterpillars (cabbage butterfly) so they come in handy when you are trying to maximize your cabbage yield. During the coming apocalypse, the kimchi buried in my backyard will be a pleasant change from all the root vegetables.

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Originally Posted by triton thrasher
Originally Posted by NickL
All are good, just strain the chips out first.


https://www.yourbestpicks.com/best-synthetic-motor-oils/

They seem to have gained their oil expertise by reading advertisements.


I just googled 'most expensive engine oil'

People think spending huge money on oil must mean it is better.
In these old crates it makes no difference, maybe in a 2015+ bike or car but even then it's questionable.

This gear is fine.https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/gulf-western-gulf-western-hi-tech-premium-engine-oil-20w-50-5-litre/105586.html?cgid=SCA01070401#sz=60&start=1

Last edited by NickL; 10/22/20 11:44 pm.
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Originally Posted by Adam M.
The question was answered on Norton Access forum some time ago,
By testing oils at temperatures they should NEVER reach in normal operation.
I'll stick with Valvoline VR in my Trident. We don't care how it works with a wet clutch!


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Originally Posted by DavidP
By testing oils at temperatures they should NEVER reach in normal operation.

Just wanting to elaborate Dave, but what temperatures should they never reach?

Viscosities of engine oils are checked at 40°c and 100°c, NOACK volatility is checked with a bath temp of 250°c (or a sample temp of 245.2°c) which is probably the highest temperature tested at. Many tests are checked at around 150°c, at the point of passing through the engine this wouldn’t be unreasonable.

A water cooled a engine aims to maintain an oil temperature around 90-100°c and air cooled engines are much more.


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100c =210f, my thermostat to the cooler opens at 180f.
150c=302f. Unless they found some way to measure oil temperature within the main bearing shells? This should never happen. If it does perhaps they need more flow through the bearings.


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To be honest I was hoping for a bit more than personal recommendations. Something like the CERN Institute or MIT getting involved. Someone mentioned Norton Access but who trusts a Norton rider ?

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My friend is the maintenance engineering manager at CERN.

Changes his oil at the dealer. ☹️....


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With these old heaps being slung together on a 60's production line with old garbage
machinery, do you really think that using super fantastic modern engine oil will make
any difference to how they go? If you do you're dreaming.
A filter is more important than $10,000 a litre oil. Stick one on and use any 20/50 SG or
standard mc4 oil, if the engine doesn't last long, you didn't build it properly, it's not the oil.

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lol

theres some common sense in that.

any oil is better than no oil.

lousy oil changed frequently is better than great oil left in too long.

oil is cheap.


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Article on oil temps in a Norton Commando, the problem area is near the exhaust port where a small amount of oil travels, but each time it travels over this area if the oil has a low flash point temp then it will be destroyed, eventually all the oil has to travel over this point.

https://nortonclub.com/docs/OilTemp.pdf

Quote
To summarize my initial conclusions:
• The Norton Commando is capable under extreme riding conditions of experiencing
engine temperatures that can cause rapid breakdown of commonly used oils.
• The only place on the engine where such extreme temperatures can occur is the
cylinder head.
• The condition most likely to create oil-destroying temperature is reduced airflow over
the cylinder head, especially following or combined with high-speed or uphill riding.
• All oils are not equal and some differ greatly from the norm in their maximum
temperature rating.

So having an oil with a higher flash point than the temp of the oil as it exits the engine is not an irrelevance.

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It is generally accepted that the optimum oil temperature is about 85C (185F).
Any lower and water is not driven off. Any higher and the oil starts to deteriorate.
However this applies to bulk oil temperature.
There will be specific spots in the engine where the oil temperature will be higher instantaneously than the bulk oil temperature.
This will be of varying magnitude depending on the details of the engine design and the operating mode.
However using any oil of reasonable pedigree these days will mean that you are using an oil vastly better than the engine was designed for.

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They take oil???

Jeez, who knew?


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