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It looks like the internal threads on my clutch basket are so damaged that I can't get the service tool (61-3766) to attach to the basket, so I can 'pop' it off the taper on the gearbox mainshaft.

If I loosen up the screws holding the gearbox cluster to the crankcases and use a brass hammer to tap the mainshaft backwards, will that work or is there something I would be damaging?

I can't see any other way to remove the clutch basket.

Thanks,
Steve.

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Make up a couple of jaws for a bearing puller and after removing the clutch cush drive
you can grip the gap between the splines on the centre.

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D0 not htt he mainshaft, do what nick says, or split it with a 4 " cut off wheel and fit a new centre ( these are a pITA, the stock tool works 1 out of 10 times) go medieval , fit new bits.


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The screw heads on the cush drive cover have been 'buggered' beyond recognition. Even an impact driver couldn't touch them.
Looks like the cut off wheel is the only solution.

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You could drill out the clutch center screws if it's going to be destroyed anyway.


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Getting the clutch center (cush drive) off doesn't free up the clutch basket. The gearbox mainshaft is tapered and woodruff keyed to the carrier that forms the race for the many rollers that is the clutch basket bearing. Maybe I can do what you said with the gear puller and some made up jaws. Sheesh.

Last edited by S-NJ-W; 10/21/20 3:13 pm. Reason: spellin
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As per Gavin, don’t go bashing the shaft, you’ll likely smash a hole through the chaincase.

Butchering the cush hub isn’t the way to do this. The cush hub needs to be drawn off its splines on the small centre (it can be a firm fit). If you can pull on the chainwheel this will draw the cush hub off.

Then you can do as NickL suggests, or cut the centre apart (carefully!).
The threads in the centre are usually very tough and hard, it is usually the threads on the puller that fail.

If that is the case, you may be able to grind the end of the puller back to the surviving good thread, tidy it with a needle file, and get it to work again. Of course clean stripped thread residue out of the internal thread with a pointy thing first.

BTW the puller doesn't actually pull, all you do is thread it in as far as you can, insert the drawbolt and give it some tension, then a sharp hammer blow to the bolt to break the taper.

Good luck.

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>The threads in the centre are usually very tough and hard, it is usually the threads on the puller that fail.

Yes, the threads on two different pullers have stripped. I turned the end of the puller back to good threads each time and cleaned out the internal thread, but the same thing kept happening. The puller looks to be very soft metal.

I have the cush drive off and am trying to find some way to attach a gear puller to the clutch basket.

Last edited by S-NJ-W; 10/21/20 3:34 pm.
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If you've got the cush hub off, the basket should just fall off, I would've thought.

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Not so far....

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Are you trying to remove the hub by just cranking in the centre bolt? That is not how to use the puller. You tighten the centre bolt then hit it with a hammer to break the hub off. You may need to retighten the bolt a few times.
With the cush drive off you cannot pull on the hub. The cush drive is what keeps the chainwheel on the hub axially. As NickL said, grab the hub behind the splines with a puller. Again, tighten the puller then hit the bolt with a hammer.

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>Are you trying to remove the hub by just cranking in the centre bolt?

Yes, but only because that's how the workshop manual shows it being used.

I have the cush drive cover off. Not the cush drive. Sorry for that misunderstanding.

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I think you're wasting your time, you must draw the cush hub off the splines. The easiest way to do this will be by pulling the basket. Dismantling the cush hub in situ won't get you very far.

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The cushdrive on or off shouldn’t be a problem as you are threading into the centre hub.

As Dave and Nick said, just make sure that outer is screwed in as far as possible so the slack in the threads is taken up. Same on the centre bolt, you want some tension, probably 1/2-3/4 turn past tight. Then give the end Of the bolt a good whack, with some conviction as if your trying to put that bolt through the other side. This is important. 2000 light taps won’t do anything but 1 decent one will.

Once it’s off check it’s condition for scoring. If it’s anything other but a smooth taper then it’s as good as junk. Next best thing then is to turn it into a tool for fitting the Cush drive rubbers.


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My thoughts.
Re assemble the cush drive, do what you can to pull it off the splined centre, they are usually a tight sliding fit. You can usually get them moving by wedging at the rear face.
Once it is off the outer basket free wheel bearing is exposed, ideally you remove the front sprocket chain and outer basket in one go, the front sprocket is tapped with two 1/4 BSF threads to help draw it off . non ideally , waggle the chain wheel, the bearings ( 20 rollers ) will fall out and allow enough free space to unseat the chain and remove the basket, you can deal with the sprocket with a simple 2 leg puller once the chain is off.
Now you are left with the difficult centre, IME the puller/ pusher tool never works, no matter how hard it is rapped, never mind the beating that you are dishing out to the mainshaft bearing at the other end. Inevitably the threads strip. A three legged puller will usually remove the centre, it comes off with a bang, usually ends up distorting the centre which is best replaced. With all that in mind it may be easier to take a cut off wheel to the centre and split it, this is much kinder to the mainshaft NDE bearing.


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Originally Posted by S-NJ-W
Getting the clutch center (cush drive) off doesn't free up the clutch basket.

It sounds like you're dealing with a four-bolt clutch, in which case the chainwheel is captured by the hub. Please confirm if this is the case; if so it negates some of the replies you've gotten.


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It's a three spring clutch and I only popped off the cover of the cush drive. The intention was to see if I could pull out the rubber buffers and get a puller on the internal 'spider'. Not possible. Thanks for the reply. I am going to leave it alone for a few days..

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Originally Posted by S-NJ-W
It's a three spring clutch and I only popped off the cover of the cush drive. The intention was to see if I could pull out the rubber buffers and get a puller on the internal 'spider'. Not possible. Thanks for the reply. I am going to leave it alone for a few days..

Ok; I see. Is there any way you can get jaws between the back of the cush drive and the chainwheel? I think I may have even ground off the ends of the jaws on one of my pullers for this or some other need. The cush drive is not on a taper, just on splines, and is typically less of a problem to get off than the hub. I've had some that just pulled off with my fingers, and others that required more persuasion, but nothing like the hub. Getting the cush drive off is just a matter of overcoming corrosion - penetrating oil and tapping around the sides may help.


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You could take a two jaw puller and grind the tip to fit around the hub behind the splines then use a screw (hose) clamp to keep it tight and pull it off that way.

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The clutch is off, I still have all my fingers and nothing was broken in the process.
Remember - this thing hasn't turned over in 40 years.

One clutch friction plate was still stuck at the back of the clutch basket and try how I could, it wouldn't come out.
When the clutch basket was off, it had to be tapped off via the holes in the back.
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

I made up two pieces of steel plate, interlinked them and attached them to the clutch 'spring' studs.
Got a puller around the plate and pushed on the gearbox mainshaft. The cush drive was rusted onto the splines
and frozen in place.

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

Winding the puller center bolt slowly pulled the cush drive off.

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

Once the primary drive and clutch were off, the tapered drive piece was left on the gearbox shaft.
Putting the puller on that, and winding it up real tight, then rapping the center bolt freed it up. It
shot about 5 feet across the garage with a 'crack'.

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

Nothing broken. No injury. It's all good. I hope this will help someone else.

Steve.

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Cheers and applause!!

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Good job, making that homemade puller for the cush drive was very resourceful. Like I said above, that step is usually not problematic, but it sounds like you had more than the average amount of corrosion to deal with.

A long time ago, before I even knew about the "special tool", I pulled one of those hubs with a jaw puller like that. I was squatting on my haunches, and when it let go, I fell back flat on my tailbone. Yeah big "pop" noise; I thought I had broken something.


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Good stuff!

So rust between the splines, must have been assembled dry, I can only imagine.

You did well to get the centre off without breaking or distorting the flange. I wouldn’t want to try it that way.
A good quality puller would be the way to go. I’ve used my one many times over 40 years.

Usually the hub just frees and bounces against the hammer that is still right next to it, no major dramatics or flying across the room.

A good result anyway, you can get on with the important stuff at last!

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A little heat will sometimes help.

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I have to due this job on my 68 Spitfire. take clutch apart. I dont know what's in there, parts used by the guy that did my re-build. from looking at the other work he did I need to see what I'm starting with

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