5/8 master cylinder.
One of the things that sort of worried/worries me is the size of the master cylinder being too big, there’s been a lot of talk as you say about the smaller cylinder having more feel to them
First up, I've never actually tried a working 13 mm./1/2" ID master cylinder and single Lockheed caliper. However, based on other first-hand experience, I've never wanted the cost to find out that other experience is perfectly valid ...
. After I put my first T160 back on the road with twin front calipers and 0.7" ID master cylinder, Mate O'Mine lent me a T160 with twin calipers worked by a 5/8" ID master cylinder. After mine, the experience was horrible, I couldn't get on at all with the enormous lever travel. Given his competence, no reason to believe there was anything wrong with his master cylinder, calipers or set-up.
. Around the same time, I was using a late-1970's Honda "Dream" version as an in-London runabout. These bikes' front brakes had a abysmal reputation for being just average when new and deteriorating rapidly - my bike failed
either its first or second MoT because the tester could get the lever back to the 'bars. As you know, standard Honda single-disc master is 14 mm. ID; I replaced it with this Lockheed one
- 5/8" (~16 mm.) ID, instant fix.
Aside, while Honda UK would never acknowledge there was a problem with the Dream front brake, when it was superseded by the Superdream, while the master cylinder remained 14 mm. ID, the caliper piston was smaller ...
. Another Mate O'Mine has been trying to set up twin calipers with a 5/8" ID master cylinder on his T160. He asked my advice before he started, I advised 0.7" ID master cylinder ... after several weeks of no success (in between work), he's decided to take my advice
(bear in mind he's owned his T160 about as long as I have, started as a fitter but has been a degree-qualified mechanical engineer for several decades, is something very senior in one of the railway companies).
The master-slave cylinder ratios bandied about on t'internet are all very well but they're just opinions - Lockheed were hardly a bunch of unqualified amateurs where hydraulic brakes are concerned ... Bikes have another restriction, in there isn't much lever travel between the length of the rider's fingers and the twistgrip; I'm not saying 13 mm./1/2" ID master cylinders won't suit riders with fingers like ET, they just don't suit me.
“for racing use only” piece on the AP RACING calliper doesn’t give me the best confidence.
AP Lockheed put/s that on because those calipers don't have dust seals (which I think'd fail a modern Type-Approved vehicle?). However, apart from the 36-mm.-OD-piston ally calipers supplied to the Co-op in the early 1980's, none of the calipers Lockheed suppled to any incarnation of Triumph had dust seals. Never heard of any of our old heaps failing a MoT just because calipers didn't have dust seals?
After throwing a bike down a Dutch motorway because of a lockup on a TLS in torrential weather,
Like John says you want to be able to stop as well or better than the person in front of you. At the same time you also want to have a brake which isn’t like an on/off switch.
Bear in mind there are more pad material options than there were forty-/fifty-odd years ago - as well as a few "Lockheed" options. both EBC and Ferodo will happily relieve you of your hard-earned for "sintered pads"; the Lockheed-supplied calipers being based on ones the made for original Minis, there are several more options based on "colour" - current favourite among triple owners is Mini "Green Stuff".
hoses, the good ridge ones are excellent.
However I’m using the late brake switch setup on the thunderbolt oif and looking at the venhill make your own style kit for a couple of reasons.
Ime, problem particularly with the Venhill Powerhose is all the ends are female BSP, you have to buy BSP-UNF adaptors to attach the hoses to Lockheed master cylinders and calipers and any of the readily-available pressure switches
all extra inflexible length when maximum flexibility is necessary; ime
Goodridge's version of Powerhose - BuildALine - has UNF ends but you still need some male-male adapters. However, if you can work spanners and a hacksaw or dremel,
it's hardly difficult to make your own hoses from Goodridge bits - Goodridge complete catalogue
, Assembly Instructions for re-usable 600 Series (PTFE Smooth Bore) Hose & Fittings
on page 81 (.pdf page 83), 600 Series Hose & Fittings starts on page 26 (.pdf page 27). Apart from my first lot of hoses for the twin calipers on the first T160 in the early 1980's, I've made all my own plus several for other people, it really is foolproof
(if Goodridge can sell it in litigious America ...;) )
There’s 3 sets of pipe work (metal brake pipe) on the T140 with the later style brake switch. 1 is at the calliper end.
I’ve found the lower pipe onto the switch is still usable, the top pipe is made to work with the later top yoke. So you’ll (and I will also) need to get a little brake making kit to do that properly. I straightened the pipe out on mine (not a good thing to do as the pipe may crack) but it’s long enough to form an L shape. Ideally you want something with more than one bend in.
Fwiw, I wouldn't bother - fitting twin discs to my first T160 in the early 1980's, I tried to rebending the OIF steel pipes. I failed miserably, wasted a lot of expensive DOT5 brake fluid. Apart from one stainless steel replica pipe between slider bracket and caliper on my T100, I've never used steel pipes again.
My T100 with basically-standard Triumph '73-'78 single-disc front end, standard '79-on pressure switch and T-piece:-
(I tried to link an image hosted on TriumphRat but BritBike won't
- essentially the standard '79-on tee is attached to the Goodridge hose end poking though a standard '73-on eyebolt.)
... in the bottom through the standard eyebolt is the hose to the caliper, the one in the side is from the master cylinder.
instead of using a bolt with a eye for the hose (if you ever need to remove the bolt your kinda stuffed)
... because both hoses into the tee are flexible, I can simply unscrew the nut on the other side of the yoke and pull out the bolt.
For reasons I won't bore with here, the hose into the side of the tee is only from the bracket on the standard '73-'78 yoke, another hose goes from the yoke to the master cylinder. But it could be just one hose, bypassing the yoke bracket.
3 sets of
metal brake pipe
on the T140 with the later style brake switch.
1 is at the calliper end.
Again, for reasons I won't bore with here, my T100 has the standard slider hose-pipe bracket and a steel pipe to the standard steel caliper; however, it's a replica of the standard pipe and fittings, made in Goodridge stainless "Hardline" by a Goodridge customer company.
However - and especially the faffing around to get a standard pipe into a caliper spaced out for a 12" disc - I never bother with the slider bracket, ime Goodridge hose straight from lower yoke to caliper works without problems.