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Kevin E Offline OP
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Hi guys,

Could any one please tell me the dimensions of the 68-4095 rear brake adjuster post.

I believe that the threaded part is 5/16" U.N.F. and that the parts book has mistakenly listed the nut that fastens to it as 3/16" B.S.C. This nut has the BSA part number 02-0049 and a google search for that part brings it up as a 5/16" 26TPI nut.

Anyway what I would like to know is the overall length of the adjuster post, the length of the threaded section and confirmation of its diameter and the outside diameter of the plain section, which has the flat machined on it for the 1/4" B.S.C. pedal stop adjuster nut.

If you can also give me the dimension from the outside end of the plain section to the centre of the 1/4" B.S.C. tapped hole that would be good but if not I can mark that out once I have the post made and fitted in the frame.

Thank you,

Kev E

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~Most 68-xxxx part numbers will be BSF or CEI, as this was also the same part used on pre 69 bikes its a good indicator that this item was not altered for the 69-70 model years,

Try Draganfly for the part: Link to adjuster post

The nut: Link to nut

Without checking I wouldn't be too sure of the thread type but do remember it being 5/16", CEI is commonly used on A65 frame and engine threads pre 69


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
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Why not buy one? Fairly common and cheap enough, even oem ones.


Bill
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Kevin E Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Beach
Why not buy one? Fairly common and cheap enough, even oem ones.

Because: -

A. I want to make my own from stainless steel and I can't find anyone selling one in stainless.

B. I'm not averse to spending money on my bike. My bottom end (which already had the timing side conversion) is currently with SRM undergoing just short of £2K's worth of work. I am however averse to buying parts, which are often of poor quality and don't fit. Unfortunately I've had a few of those from Draganfly Allan G and I'm reluctant to use them after a couple of bad experiences.

C. I was hoping that I would be able to get the information I want, in order to make my own, from like minded and helpful enthusiasts. This, on the whole, has been my experience on these kind of forums. Rather than flippant comments.

D. If I can't get the dimensions then I will try to find one to buy from a reputable source and copy it, if it fits ok.

I hope that answers your question and that someone can answer mine.

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Originally Posted by Kevin E
Originally Posted by Beach
Why not buy one? Fairly common and cheap enough, even oem ones.

Because: -

A. I want to make my own from stainless steel and I can't find anyone selling one in stainless.

B. I'm not averse to spending money on my bike. My bottom end (which already had the timing side conversion) is currently with SRM undergoing just short of £2K's worth of work. I am however averse to buying parts, which are often of poor quality and don't fit. Unfortunately I've had a few of those from Draganfly Allan G and I'm reluctant to use them after a couple of bad experiences.

C. I was hoping that I would be able to get the information I want, in order to make my own, from like minded and helpful enthusiasts. This, on the whole, has been my experience on these kind of forums. Rather than flippant comments.

D. If I can't get the dimensions then I will try to find one to buy from a reputable source and copy it, if it fits ok.

I hope that answers your question and that someone can answer mine.
Not flippant.. Just a question.... I'm the guy that gave you detailed info on your other post. You have a good day Kevin and I'm impressed with your 2k worth of work.


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I don't believe Beach's comment was necessarily flippant; you may have not known, for instance, that the part is available.

Ok, without removing my stop, I can give you these dimensions: The diameter of the post is 1/2", and the length from the end to the frame is 11/16". (I have a flat washer there that brings the length out to 3/4"; that was necessary to get the stop screw to line up with my brake arm.)The flat runs the entire distance of the wide part, and reduces the diameter by .010".

The nut on the back side of the post takes a 1/4" BS wrench; that tells me the threaded part of the post is 1/4". The diameter of the stop screw is .230", and the center of the screw is 5/16" from the end of the post.

I reckon you can make the thread densities anything you want.


Mark Z

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I wasn’t specifically giving you the links because I was being flippant either, you never said you were intending to make a stainless copy. I thought the images might be helpful also.

I also have limited time but try to help others where I can (if I can)

The other alternative is, you find an original part, buy it and then use it as a pattern to make one or Several for yourself.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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beach, I meant no offence buddy. My use of the word flippant probably wasn’t the most appropriate and I apologise if it was taken out of context.

Text is not the best way to get the right mood across and believe me I am very grateful for your help in my other post.

Take care of yourself and I hope to get the chance to help others in the same way they’ve helped me with my bike.

Thanks to all who have provided information.

Best regards,

Kev E

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After looking at the links, I'm a little confused. As I wrote above, the nut on my post takes a 1/4" BS wrench, so I assumed it was 1/4" diameter. However, if the post is 5/16" as the links indicate, then perhaps it's an under-sized-head nut.

In any case Kevin, all you need to do is measure the hole in the frame.


Mark Z

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Hi Mark,

Thanks for the information. After doing a little more research I think the post has a 5/16" B.S.C. male thread for mounting the stop light switch to the frame and a 1/4" B.S.C. tapped hole to take the brake pedal stop screw.

If you look in the parts book the nut (item number 34 on Plate 10 of the 1969 parts book, which has the thread sizes for fasteners listed unlike the earlier parts books) for fastening the adjuster post to the frame has the BSA part number of 02-0049. It is listed as a 3/16" B.S.C. nut and that is way too small, so I think it is an error. The washer for this nut (item 33) is listed as 5/16" x 5/8" x .040", which confirms the error for the nut. Also if you do a google search for the BSA part number 02-0049 the results come back as a 5/16" 26TPI B.S.C. nut.

I think I will wait until I have rebuilt the bike to the stage where I can fit the brake lever and stop arm, then use the dimensions you have given me and work it all out then.

I may even take Beach's advice and buy one to use as a pattern. Even if it doesn't fit properly I can modify the dimensions to suit for the stainless one I will make.

Unfortunately my bike didn't have the original stop light switch on it when I bought it and this 'adjuster post' has always been missing. It was only when I spotted it in photographs that I realised it should be there, as a brake pedal stop even if it is not mounting the stop light switch. My rear brake lever stop has always been the footrest. I wonder how many other A65's are like that?

Thanks again for the help and once again apologies to Beach. I read my reply to him back and it does sound a little ungracious, which is not how I meant to come across.

Take care and ride safe.

Kev E

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Hi Kevin, I think the 3/16" nut might be the actual adjuster screw, the thread size is about 3/16 (although I thought it was BSF which is same as 2BA) the screw is a grub screw with a slotted end. I find the standard one is too short for my liking. I've since changed the brake switch setup to the OIF style switch, the rubber part doesn't last as long but the light actually stays from the moment you start to apply the brake, I thought the original method was poor in this respect and the light often went off again when the brake was applied.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Hi Allan,

You would think 3/16" would do the job and be about right but in the parts book the 68-4096 slotted adjuster screw and it's 02-1027 nut are all listed as 1/4" B.S.C.

I think I'll bite the bullet and order an adjuster post, looks like it will have to be Draganfly, as the only other suppliers I can find selling them are in the USA.

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Off post Allan but whereabouts in West Yorkshire are you?

Do you pay the subscription for this forum and if so do you think it's worth it?

Thanks,

Kev E

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I would have to verify the size and look at the adjuster on mine, but when you consider how larger a 1/4” engine case screw is, the thread size and pitch is much closer to the 3/16” (2BA) size that holds my back light together. But I would have to double check.


I’m just outside Pontefract, our BSA branch is just outside
featherstone, although I don’t think many people are going out as late.

Is the membership worth it?? I’ve been a Member on and off since 2007, on BritBike.Com. I’ve been on other forums and the wealth of knowledge here is a lot better than other BSA forums which I have been on. It’s also better laid out and in my opinion the easiest to use, I am a moderator so my opinions might be seen as a little biased, but I did become a paid up member before I became a Moderator so for me.. I felt it was worth it, it gives me functionality like the photo upload which saves me hassling with the likes of photo bucket etc, as I say the forum is very much up to date compared to most, it also gets a lot of attention from its creator. This site also has one of the best collections of brains attributing to it, so whilst your membership money isn’t paying them to be on here... there must also be something about the forum that keeps those guys coming back here.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Sounds good Allan.

I'm about 40 miles east of you on the western outskirts of Hull.

I'd be interested in catching up with you and your club when and if this current madness ever ends.

I'm planning on putting my bike back on the road for next summer and would like to start showing it again.

I haven't had it on the road since the mid 90's. One of the last times I took it out your way was to the Castleford Cavalcade at Nostell Priory where the bike won it's first trophy.

I went through a rather dark time when my first wife left me and the bike got a bit neglected (a lot of things did). It then got caught up in the very bad floods we suffered here in Hull in 2007 when it was being stored along with my mates Vincent Black Shadows, in his large garage/workshop. He has a business selling marine and tropical fish and you may remember the incident where a young man (another mate) tragically lost his life after getting trapped in a storm drain. He was trying to stop the flooding of the premises, which ended up flooding my A65. I was working on a job in Plymouth at the time.

Anyway I then decided to do a complete rebuild on the bike and make a better job of it than I did the first time. I did restore it to a very good standard but there were a few things that weren't quite right and, as I have learnt a lot since the first rebuild, my intention is to put that knowledge to good use and have an even better bike to ride and show.

I got slowed up a bit due to a 2 year fight with cancer, which I'm pleased to say I won.

I'm back on track now though and life is really good. I have a wonderful second wife, who was an absolute rock during my very aggressive cancer treatment, and it's onwards and upwards with a positive and optimistic outlook. Even if that is hard at the moment with the Covid thing going on.

Now then, did you say something about a beer? smile

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I also made my own brake stop and arm.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
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Gary E., what is that material? Do you have a 3D printer? (The two questions are unrelated.)


Mark Z

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Originally Posted by Allan G
I would have to verify the size and look at the adjuster on mine, but when you consider how larger a 1/4” engine case screw is, the thread size and pitch is much closer to the 3/16” (2BA) size that holds my back light together. But I would have to double check.

Allan, I measured my stop screw at .230" - this is bigger than 3/16" but 20 thou. less than 1/4". I don't know my "BA"s; is there a BA1?


Mark Z

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Originally Posted by Mark Z
Gary E., what is that material? Do you have a 3D printer? (The two questions are unrelated.)

No 3D printer here. Would like to have one though. Material for those parts was mild steel. Nothing special. Both just made by hand, then zinc plated. The white background makes the image of them look darker than they really are. The adjuster stud is round stock with the flat on one side, all to spec of an original.


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Originally Posted by Mark Z
Originally Posted by Allan G
I would have to verify the size and look at the adjuster on mine, but when you consider how larger a 1/4” engine case screw is, the thread size and pitch is much closer to the 3/16” (2BA) size that holds my back light together. But I would have to double check.

Allan, I measured my stop screw at .230" - this is bigger than 3/16" but 20 thou. less than 1/4". I don't know my "BA"s; is there a BA1?

There is a 0BA and a 1BA, but will have to look at the sizes. A threaded section will loose some of its OD, but not sure by how much.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

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71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
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68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Kevin E Offline OP
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0BA = 0.2362" Diameter, 0.1890" Core, 0.0394" Pitch, 25.38 T.P.I.

1BA = 0.2087" Diameter, 0.1663" Core, 0.0354" Pitch, 28.25 T.P.I.

2BA = 0.1850" Diameter, 0.1468" Core, 0.0319" Pitch, 31.35 T.P.I.

3BA = 0.1614" Diameter, 0.1270" Core, 0.0287" Pitch, 34.84 T.P.I.

4BA = 0.1417" Diameter, 0.1105" Core, 0.0260" Pitch, 38.46 T.P.I.

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I have ordered an adjuster post along with the adjuster screw from Draganfly and will use these as patterns to make stainless steel replicas, once I have verified the fit on my bike.

I have a standard unmodified frame and brake rear brake pedal, so once I have confirmed the adjuster post is correct and lines up with everything it should do, I will get it drawn up in CAD. I will check all the standard threads with my thread gauges and micrometer gear to make sure they are what I think they are. I will probably tap my adjuster post with a metric thread and use a grub screw as opposed to the standard slotted item. I think with it's location on the bike it will be easier to adjust and work on with a spanner and allen key rather than a screwdriver.

If anyone want's a copy of the drawing, or details of the confirmed dimensions just let me know.

Kev E

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Kevin E Offline OP
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Hi all,

I got the brake adjuster post from Draganfly and here are the dimensional details.

Hope it may be of some help to others.

Kevin E

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Rear Brake Adjuster Post.jpg
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First stage of the stainless steel adjuster post for my bike. I'm going to polish it before I mill the flat on it and then wait until I have the rear brake pedal, stop light switch and associated parts in position, so that I can check the position of the adjuster screw hole before I drill and tap it.

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A65 Brake Pedal Adjuster Post.JPG
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Looking good!


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)


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