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Lucas 3 prong Ignition switch
#799721 03/01/20 2:32 pm
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 107
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So ……. I have two switches, one with dodgy connections (sometimes it does not switch "off") and a key , and another with no key (but looks much nicer). I have seen switches for sale without the lock barrel, and lock barrels without the switches. So the obvious thing is to put the good switch with the barrel plus key together.

Question ….. how on God's green earth do you get the lock barrel out of the switch without the use of a 14lb sledge hammer and an angle grinder, (which would rather defeat the purpose of the exercise) ??

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Re: Lucas 3 prong Ignition switch
Dave Martin #799723 03/01/20 2:44 pm
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There should be a hole on the side, in one particular position of the barrel a rod/screwdriver used in the hole will push a plunger on the barrel so the barrel can then be pulled out.

I am assuming this is the FS type barrel. You can see the plunger sticking out on the end of this barrel.

[Linked Image from i.ebayimg.com]

Re: Lucas 3 prong Ignition switch
Dave Martin #799724 03/01/20 3:23 pm
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Gotcha! Put in key, turn till plunger is visible, push in plunger and extract barrel, simple. Problem is …... no key! Will revert to sledge hammer and angle grinder to exact vengeance if nothing else, or perhaps just drill another hole!

Re: Lucas 3 prong Ignition switch
Dave Martin #799729 03/01/20 5:50 pm
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So frustrated, I had REALLY wanted to get the hammer and grinder out! Drilled hole in correct place thanks to the photo, found plunger and barrel came out just fine. Thanks for the image and instructions Kommando, they let me deal with an irritating problem.

Re: Lucas 3 prong Ignition switch
Dave Martin #799738 03/01/20 7:52 pm
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The number stamped on the side of the plumber is the key number, so on the plunger in the pic is stamped 910, so the key is FS910. You can order the key by key number.

Re: Lucas 3 prong Ignition switch
Dave Martin #799756 03/01/20 11:40 pm
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Yeah will probably do that. Of course it turns out that there was nothing wrong with the original switch, I had followed the wrong wiring diagram for the Podtronics. Slight but Oh so significant differences between the regular and "Hi-power". The negative output has to be wired in BEFORE the ignition switch (i.e. direct to battery), not after as with the regular regulator. Even with the "out" wire pulled off my ignition switch, I was still getting 5.5 volts between my negative buss and frame, just enough for the Vape to continue to give a spark, not a good one, but a spark non the less.


Moderated by  Allan G, Jon W. Whitley 

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