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Re: New to me bike hauler (FORD) [Re: wadeschields] #795391 01/11/20 5:47 pm
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R Moulding Online Content
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Leave the flywheel alone, it will work just fine without being re surfaced. Most Concentric slave cylinders can be a pain to bleed. However, start by simply cracking the bleed nipple and waiting for gravity to push fluid out. Once you have fluid tighten the nipple and then pump the pedal to bleed, I've used this method with every Concentric slave I've fitted and I'm well into double figures. Does your clutch master share the reservoir with the brake master? If so you will see a feed line from the side of the reservoir, it's obviously quite important to keep the fluid level above this.

One reason you are struggling to engage the input shaft is the coarse spline. First ensure the clutch plate is the right way around, general rule of thumb says big side out. If your alignment tool is the kind that engages into the spigot bearing/bush then you will need to give it a wee jiggle whilst you evenly tighten the cover bolts. Once tight the tool should slide in and out smoothly. Use your torch and eye ball the hole to check alignment, then lightly smear the input shaft spline with grease. Refitting the box requires it to be straight and level, you can try making alignment pins but personally I find these cause more trouble since any twist on the box will cause the pins to jamb in the bell housing holes. Laying on your back with the tail shaft on your shoulder and your knees supporting the box is normally the easiest method if it 2 wheel drive. Use the dowel's to give an idea of where the box needs to sit side to side, engage the input shaft and then give it a jiggle as you gently try to slide it home.

Rod

Last edited by R Moulding; 01/11/20 6:13 pm.

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Re: New to me bike hauler (FORD) [Re: R Moulding] #795396 01/11/20 7:11 pm
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Gravity bleeding works well. I didn't have to pump the pedal to get it all the way up. I think it's unique to Rangers and Mazdas that there is a high spot in the line that holds an air bubble that won't bleed out. I have had this truck since "97" and the clutch would always drag when cold and down shifting into 1st. no mater how many times I tried to bleed it. This time I disconnected the line and stretched it out vertically and kept tapping it till the air was all out and reinstalled it. My clutch disengages completely now and shifts smooth as butter. There are a few youtube videos out there that address this. I cussed a lot getting my transmission in for a few hours too.I finally got my longest bolts and watching the gap around the bell housing slowly pulled it in keeping the gap even all the way around and gave it a few jiggles. I didn't force anything and took my time and it slowly slid in. I agree that flywheel looks fine.

Re: New to me bike hauler (FORD) [Re: wadeschields] #795401 01/11/20 7:39 pm
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Is the new clutch the correct clutch ?

Re: New to me bike hauler (FORD) [Re: wadeschields] #795402 01/11/20 8:12 pm
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Please note that I never said to gravity bleed. Only to leave the bleed nipple open until you see fluid and then close it. At this point a Concentric slave will generally self bleed by pumping the clutch pedal. I learnt this when Ford introduced their first Concentric slave cylinders in the Mondeo in the early 90's, I was looking after a fleet of Taxi's and would be doing clutches constantly on them. I am typically only ever given a maximum of 4 hours to complete a clutch job so having to pull lines and mess around trying to straighten them is not an option.

Rod


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Re: New to me bike hauler (FORD) [Re: wadeschields] #795498 01/13/20 2:01 am
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Thanks everyone.... All sound advice.... Including reporting Mickey missing wink


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Re: New to me bike hauler (FORD) [Re: wadeschields] #795515 01/13/20 12:49 pm
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I've done a lot of clutch work...You did replace the pilot bushing/bearing ?


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Re: New to me bike hauler (FORD) [Re: wadeschields] #795524 01/13/20 2:24 pm
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I did not . Everything seemed fine mechanically so I decided not to replace a few things . One thing I did not try was leaving it in gear and rotating the driveshaft so the pilot shaft moves as I try to slide it in. I must have been tired so I didnt thing of that till someone else mentioned it. That might help line things up.


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Re: New to me bike hauler (FORD) [Re: wadeschields] #795587 01/14/20 3:01 pm
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I put a couple of guide pins in place of bolts when I put mine back in. Worked slick. Having a a jack helped a lot too. Wouldn't want to try it by hand although I used to put muncies in my Camaro without a jack about 40 years ago.

The pins are still in my tool box along with the alignment tool. The stuff drawer has accumulated a lot of this type of things over the years.

Last edited by Zimm; 01/14/20 3:03 pm.
Re: New to me bike hauler (FORD) [Re: wadeschields] #795603 01/14/20 6:48 pm
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When putting the automatic trans back in on my 94 Chevy, I was able to hook a ratchet strap into holes on the frame. With the strap under the rear section of the trans, as I tightened it, it lifted up the rear section of the trans and made it alot easier to lift and maneuver the bellhousing.

Re: New to me bike hauler (FORD) [Re: wadeschields] #795616 01/14/20 9:09 pm
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thumbsup

Last edited by wadeschields; 01/14/20 9:10 pm.

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Re: New to me bike hauler (FORD) [Re: R Moulding] #795638 01/15/20 12:43 am
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I have no handy help and plenty of time so I just let it gravity feed into a jar of fluid with a tube. I kept the reservoir toped off while I was working on some other things. My goal was to flush the system with fresh fluid. I understand why this would not work out in a commercial shop situation but it was perfect for me working alone late on a Saturday night.

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