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Triple Clamp Alignment #792274 12/07/19 5:56 pm
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Richard Phillips Offline OP
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I have a slight mis alignment of my forks at the axel approx 1/2'' This is a new build with all new parts in the forks and the wheel is not mounted. I can get the axel in... Should I wait until the wheel is mounted, then losen up the lower clamp at the fork tube, losen the top chrome nut and losen the axel, then work the suspension up and down. I check a few You Tubes and this how they do it on a modern bike.
This is a 67' BSA Hornet

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Re: Triple Clamp Alignment [Re: Richard Phillips] #792277 12/07/19 6:44 pm
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kommando Offline
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Read the factory manual, it shows 2 stanchions being fitted and a plate being used to check the alignment. 1/2 is not slight but as long as the yokes are not bent then all should align, even then once it's all together you need to loosen it all and then bounce the bike and tighten from the bottom bouncing after each tightening.

Last edited by kommando; 12/07/19 8:53 pm.
Re: Triple Clamp Alignment [Re: Richard Phillips] #792279 12/07/19 7:03 pm
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Gary E Offline
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In some cases, I've had to put either of the triple clamps in the vice and with a long pipe bend them so as to get alignment at the axle.


1967 BSA Wasp
1967 BSA Hornet (West Coast Model)
1967 BSA Hornet (East Coast Model)
1968 BSA Firebird Scrambler
1968 BSA Spitfire Mark IV
Re: Triple Clamp Alignment [Re: Gary E] #792281 12/07/19 7:23 pm
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Richard Phillips Offline OP
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Thanks guys. May just have to pull it all down.
I was thinking about using spare tubes to work The Triple trees on the bike. Pushing one down and pulling one up.

Re: Triple Clamp Alignment [Re: Richard Phillips] #792293 12/07/19 9:41 pm
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Allan Gill Offline
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Originally Posted by Richard Phillips
Should I wait until the wheel is mounted, then losen up the lower clamp at the fork tube, losen the top chrome nut and losen the axel, then work the suspension up and down. I check a few You Tubes and this how they do it on a modern bike.
This is a 67' BSA Hornet


It shows this on a circa 65’ tech guide also. If you have the A65 gold portfolio book the article in copied into there. I believe you also tighten up the front axel at this time too.


beerchug
Re: Triple Clamp Alignment [Re: Richard Phillips] #792309 12/07/19 11:47 pm
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Mark Z Offline
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Originally Posted by Richard Phillips
I have a slight mis alignment of my forks at the axel approx 1/2'' This is a new build with all new parts in the forks and the wheel is not mounted. I can get the axel in... Should I wait until the wheel is mounted, then losen up the lower clamp at the fork tube, losen the top chrome nut and losen the axel, then work the suspension up and down. I check a few You Tubes and this how they do it on a modern bike.
This is a 67' BSA Hornet


I've always heard this is the way to do it, and it's what I've done on my builds, except I don't loosen the top chrome nut or the upper triple clamp pinch bolt. I just loosen the lower triple clamp pinch bolts and the front axle pinch bolt (but not the axle itself). This will allow the lower triple clamp to twist with respect to the upper clamp, and it will allow the left fork to find its place on the axle. Once the left fork has found its place on the axle, I tighten the axle pinch bolt and then bounce some more before tightening the other pinch bolts.




Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Re: Triple Clamp Alignment [Re: Richard Phillips] #792390 12/08/19 9:01 pm
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KC in S.B. Online Content
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For anyone following, here’s a good way to see if the tubes are parallel or bent. Once you know what’s wrong,....... good luck fixing it !!
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/770102


Down to 1 BSA, 2 Triumphs, 1 '56 Chevy
1 '65 XLCH, Hernia Gift, on the way to Japan!
Re: Triple Clamp Alignment [Re: Richard Phillips] #792393 12/08/19 9:06 pm
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KC in S.B. Online Content
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Reviewing the link I posted. That check will do NOTHING to show if tubes are bowed in or out. I expect measuring the spread at top Vs. bottom is the only way.


Down to 1 BSA, 2 Triumphs, 1 '56 Chevy
1 '65 XLCH, Hernia Gift, on the way to Japan!
Re: Triple Clamp Alignment [Re: KC in S.B.] #792434 12/09/19 4:21 am
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Mark Z Offline
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Originally Posted by KC in S.B.
Reviewing the link I posted. That check will do NOTHING to show if tubes are bowed in or out. I expect measuring the spread at top Vs. bottom is the only way.


Yes KC, I should have added that the method I prescribed only ensures that the yokes are in alignment on assembly, assuming nothing is bent or otherwise awry.

Since on a '67 at least the left fork "floats" on the axle, you could measure top and bottom, pull the fork to the correct parallel-wise position, clamp it in place with the pinch bolt, and then bounce to align the yokes. Again this is assuming no damaged parts.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Re: Triple Clamp Alignment [Re: Richard Phillips] #792584 12/11/19 3:53 am
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linker48x Offline
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Originally Posted by Richard Phillips
I have a slight mis alignment of my forks at the axel approx 1/2'' This is a new build with all new parts in the forks and the wheel is not mounted. I can get the axel in... Should I wait until the wheel is mounted, then losen up the lower clamp at the fork tube, losen the top chrome nut and losen the axle, then work the suspension up and down. I check a few You Tubes and this how they do it on a modern bike.
This is a 67' BSA Hornet


All I can add to your proposed fix is this:

1. You started with new parts, and you assume they are straight, but you haven't figured out before reassembly if they, or the clamps and sliders are straight . If the problem persists after your attempted fixes, you will need to take them all off and see.

2. But, a 1/2 inch misalignment is something that might be simply because the triple clamps were not mounted in line with each other, and this can be corrected. The steering stem is one piece with the lower clamp. So, in addition to what you propose, I would suggest you slack off the pinch bolt on the upper triple clamp securing it to the steering stem, which holds the clamps in alignment (or misalignment), to allow it to rotate into alignment. DO NOT release the upper nut on the top triple clamp holding it down to the fork stem--this nut will hold the weight of the forks (or the weight of the bike if you put it on the ground).

3. Something else that has worked for me is to put the bike up in the air, and then remove the fork springs and then compress the fork fully and set the tire on a box or similar, so that the sliders are fully engaged on the fork tubes. The fork bushings are not really tight fits on these older bikes, and this helps get everything squared away. Then grasp the wheel between your legs and lever the handlebars back and forth until it feels free--it will only be an approximation, of course, but you should be able to get it very close this way, assuming the sliders and clamps are straight. It may take a fair amount of twisting force to get everything moving, because even though the the lower clamps and steering head pinch bolts are loose the clamps still hold fairly tight. You can check where you are by removing the axle and reinserting, and you can re-adjust if there are problems. Then when it is going together free and centered, tighten everything starting at the axle and working up, remove the box, and replace the springs and fork caps. Then, you might want to put the bike back on the ground, release the lower clamp pinch bolts and the steering stem pinch bolts, re-tighten the top nuts on the fork tubes and on the steering stem, then re-tighten the pinch bolts again, to make sure the fork tubes are seated in the top clamp.



Last edited by linker48x; 12/11/19 3:56 am.
Re: Triple Clamp Alignment [Re: Richard Phillips] #792662 12/12/19 2:29 am
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Mark Z Offline
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Linker, right about loosening the upper yoke pinch bolt; I stand corrected.

In regard to removing the springs, I'm wondering if you're picturing a later model fork with internal springs? On the earlier ones (I believe the OP said '66) with external springs, you must free the forks from the yokes to remove the springs.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Re: Triple Clamp Alignment [Re: Richard Phillips] #792693 12/12/19 12:51 pm
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Allan Gill Offline
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Correct, you can do it if you have triumph forks as the oil seal holder screws up from the outside, it isn't easy but it is possible.


beerchug
Re: Triple Clamp Alignment [Re: Richard Phillips] #792774 12/13/19 3:54 am
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Mark Z Offline
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Yes, it's also possible to drop the fork legs on an A65 if you can loosen the seal holders with your hand or with a strap wrench, but it's a bugger getting them threaded back on under spring pressure. I did that once or twice and didn't like it. Either way, a lot of work to remove the springs.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Re: Triple Clamp Alignment [Re: Richard Phillips] #792956 12/15/19 12:20 am
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linker48x Offline
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Oops, Of course you are right, dropping the forks to bottom won’t work on these 60s BSAs. My ‘68 Spitfire and my DBD34 Goldie are sitting out in the garage wondering what I was thinking, LOL. It’s always better to align everything with the forks bottomed —where you can—but this ain’t one of those. Aligning the forks with the weight of the bike sitting on the ground and thus pushing on the fork works well too, and that of course is what you have to do here. So, what you can do here is, loosen the pinch bolts on the stem and the lower triple clamp, leave the top nut on the stem tight, and loosen the fork top nuts, hold the wheel and twist the handlebars back and forth until it is aligned. I like the angle iron and c clamp method of determining if it’s true.


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