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Brake Drum Grease recommendations #791901 12/03/19 1:33 am
Joined: Sep 2004
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gunner Offline OP
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I'm busy rebuilding the rear brake hub on my A65 and wondered what grease others are using on the lever spindle, cam and shoe pivot. I;m not talking about wheel bearing grease as these are sealed.

Previously I have used anti seize copper grease sparingly in these areas but wondered if there is something better? I see that some folks use silicon or even teflon grease.

All comments welcome.


1968 A65 Firebird
1967 B44 Shooting Star
1972 Norton Commando
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Re: Brake Drum Grease recommendations [Re: gunner] #791923 12/03/19 9:26 am
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Allan Gill Offline
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I’ve always used LM grease sparingly, (I assume you mean the brake fulcrum) a higher temperature grease would be better although with our cold climate it might go solid at our low temperatures.


beerchug
Re: Brake Drum Grease recommendations [Re: gunner] #791946 12/03/19 3:08 pm
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bodine031 Offline
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I have been using Bel-Ray waterproof grease for decades. Just used some last week to service my B-44VS rear wheel and brake lube points. Bike trailer and both rear drive van & truck frt. wheel brgs. always.

Re: Brake Drum Grease recommendations [Re: gunner] #791949 12/03/19 4:00 pm
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gunner Offline OP
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Thanks guys, I think I will simply use the LM grease as Allan suggested as I have a tin somewhere in the shed, the Bel-Ray grease sounds interesting though.


1968 A65 Firebird
1967 B44 Shooting Star
1972 Norton Commando
Re: Brake Drum Grease recommendations [Re: gunner] #791951 12/03/19 4:23 pm
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kevin roberts Offline
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grease is wonderful stuff. there's as much potential controversy on grease as there is on motor oil and gearbox lube. always something to learn.

high-temp disc brake grease (the stuff you use on the sliders) is useful for dry clutch bearings and pushrods, although i've tried ordinary lithium "white grease" on clutch pushrods and it's always still here when i take the clutch apart.

boat trailer wheel bearing grease is waterproof and is good for places where the components are exposed, such as brake pedal pivots or handlebar levers. i'd probably use it on QD splines, if i had any.

anti-seize metallic-particle substances are good for frequent removals but aren't good for actual lubrication, in my experience. i formerly used it on magneto pivots, but don't anymore. kept the mag from seizing outright, but didn't make it easier to turn.

lubricants are places where anything is better than nothing, but particular substances are better than others for certain applications. heavens, it's like case sealants. i've tried everything under the sun there and have ended up using old wellseal, just like the druids.



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Re: Brake Drum Grease recommendations [Re: gunner] #792144 6 hours ago
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linker48x Offline
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There's a lot of favorites mentioned above, and most recently my favorite has been a very thin coat of modern light grease, the Moly disc brake wheel bearing grease, with a drop point of about 375F, just rubbed on with any excess squeezed out around the brake shoes rubbed off. My longtime favorite before that was good old fashioned extra thick (non-disc brake) wheel bearing grease, about the same drop point but much thicker in consistency at room temp, and applied the same way--thin coat, with excess rubbed off. I never used Bel-Ray waterproof grease (like boat trailer wheel bearing grease) on road bikes, but I used it exclusively for my dirt bikes and their exposed suspension linkages and so forth that get blasted with water and mud because it resists washing off, but my uninformed impression is that stuff is not as good a lube, and it seems not to "flow" well--its kind of gummy or something like that. I would not use white grease at all, neither heavy duty nor heat resistant enough, nor likely to last very long. I think the main thing is, any high quality, name brand, reasonably high temp grease will work satisfactorily when it is applied sparingly with all excess removed, and then renewed reasonably often, according to use.

My Triumph road racer originally had a 60's Triumph black steel spool hub and iron brake/sprocket on it, lubricated this way, and I used it pretty hard and it got HOT, and it always worked well this way with no pollution of the brake lining by grease--but like most race bikes, it was apart and thus serviced fairly often.


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