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Have a fork rebuild in my future. What am I in for #789418 11/07/19 1:03 pm
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DamienE Offline OP
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Was out in the garage the other day and noticed some oil on the floor near my 70 Thunderbolt. Nothing new I know, but this time the quantity was more than usual and by the front wheel, not the engine. Lol.

Upon inspection, it appears a fork seal failed and all of he fork oil leaked out. From seeing posts here and there, it sounds like the fork rebuild procedure is pretty rough. Can anyone offer some insight into what I’m up against?

Appreciate it!

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Re: Have a fork rebuild in my future. What am I in for [Re: DamienE] #789423 11/07/19 2:30 pm
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DMadigan Offline
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All the oil leaked out just sitting there? It sounds as though the drain screw is leaking, not the seals which are at the top of the sliders.

Re: Have a fork rebuild in my future. What am I in for [Re: DamienE] #789429 11/07/19 4:05 pm
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Gordo in Comox Online Content
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To actually all drain out the leak needs to be at the bottom and not up by the seal. If your forks are the rod damper type (I do not know about 70 forks) you could look at the screw that goes up into the bottom of the sliding tube to secure the damper tube. That screw has an aluminum sealing washer and if loose or defective it will allow the fluid to drain.

Gordo


The roadside repairs make for the best post ride stories.
Re: Have a fork rebuild in my future. What am I in for [Re: DamienE] #789453 11/07/19 9:30 pm
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gunner Online Content
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I've had fork oil leaks in one form or another from 5 possible locations on BSA's and as already noted leaks can come from 1) the oil drain screws, 2) the bolt holding the damper rod to the base of the slider, 3) the fork oil seals 4) the chrome oil seal holder threads and 5) from the top nuts.

Most likely, if there is no oil at all then this points to problems with the oil drain screws and/or the bolts holding the damping rods to the base of the sliders. The fix as previously mentioned is to use new alloy sealing washers, check the parts list for exact replacements, if you cant find them use fiber washers.

If the oil is leaking from the seals then they need replacing together with checking that the fork stanchions are rust free and not pitted. Any oil leaks from the seal holder threads can be rectified by using a small amount of silicone around the thread base or ptfe tape.

Oil can also leak from the top nuts if the forks are overfilled with oil, so the fix is to ensure the are filled with the right amount of oil.

Rebuilding forks is not that difficult, the biggest problem is probably trying to undo the chrome oil seal holders using the BSA tool. You may find they are seized and the tool wont work, in which case heat and a pipe wrench might help but will ruin the chrome holders and new ones will be needed.


1968 A65 Firebird
1967 B44 Shooting Star
1972 Norton Commando
Re: Have a fork rebuild in my future. What am I in for [Re: gunner] #789457 11/07/19 10:16 pm
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NickL Offline
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Originally Posted by gunner


Rebuilding forks is not that difficult, the biggest problem is probably trying to undo the chrome oil seal holders using the BSA tool. You may find they are seized and the tool wont work, in which case heat and a pipe wrench might help but will ruin the chrome holders and new ones will be needed.



A good way to combat this problem is to place a small ball-bearing in each tool locating notch and wrap tape around to hold them in place.
This then gives the pipe wrench/stilson a positive location to grip and saves the chrome. Trust me, it works.

Re: Have a fork rebuild in my future. What am I in for [Re: NickL] #789460 11/07/19 11:03 pm
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Jon W. Whitley Online Content
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Originally Posted by NickL

A good way to combat this problem is to place a small ball-bearing in each tool locating notch and wrap tape around to hold them in place.
This then gives the pipe wrench/stilson a positive location to grip and saves the chrome. Trust me, it works.


Wow, that is an extremely excellent tip !!


Jon W.


1957 6T Thunderbird 650
1968 T100R Daytona 500
1971 TR6R Tiger 650
1970 BSA A65F 650
1955 Tiger 100 - Project
1971 BSA A65 650 - Project
1972 Norton Commando 750 "Combat"

Re: Have a fork rebuild in my future. What am I in for [Re: DamienE] #789464 11/07/19 11:34 pm
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NickL Offline
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See, I'm not as daft as i look eh?

Re: Have a fork rebuild in my future. What am I in for [Re: DamienE] #789473 11/08/19 1:04 am
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DamienE Offline OP
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Thank you for all of the replies so far! I’ll be giving it a closer look this weekend. Hopefully it’s just the bottom drain plug seal.

Re: Have a fork rebuild in my future. What am I in for [Re: DamienE] #789479 11/08/19 3:27 am
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wadeschields Offline
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Great info Thanks


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Re: Have a fork rebuild in my future. What am I in for [Re: DamienE] #789507 11/08/19 4:40 pm
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qbeanie Offline
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Yes! Very good info.

Re: Have a fork rebuild in my future. What am I in for [Re: NickL] #789538 11/08/19 10:05 pm
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Jon W. Whitley Online Content
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Originally Posted by NickL
See, I'm not as daft as i look eh?


Not in this case laughing


Jon W.


1957 6T Thunderbird 650
1968 T100R Daytona 500
1971 TR6R Tiger 650
1970 BSA A65F 650
1955 Tiger 100 - Project
1971 BSA A65 650 - Project
1972 Norton Commando 750 "Combat"

Re: Have a fork rebuild in my future. What am I in for [Re: DamienE] #789574 11/09/19 10:11 am
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BSA_WM20 Offline
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Doubleing up on what was posted in the second reply, very little chance it is from the seal
Get some paper towle and wrap it around the bottom of the seal holder.
If it comes up dry then look at all the places on the bottom as others have suggested.


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Trevor
Re: Have a fork rebuild in my future. What am I in for [Re: NickL] #790424 11/18/19 5:32 am
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canuck3134 Offline
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Originally Posted by NickL
Originally Posted by gunner


Rebuilding forks is not that difficult, the biggest problem is probably trying to undo the chrome oil seal holders using the BSA tool. You may find they are seized and the tool wont work, in which case heat and a pipe wrench might help but will ruin the chrome holders and new ones will be needed.



A good way to combat this problem is to place a small ball-bearing in each tool locating notch and wrap tape around to hold them in place.
This then gives the pipe wrench/stilson a positive location to grip and saves the chrome. Trust me, it works.


That ball bearing idea sounds great! In a pinch (and if It’s not too tight or badly seized), you can wrap a bit of inner tube around the seal holder and tighten a hose clamp around it; then put a pipe wrench on the hose clamp. I’ve done this and it didn’t mark the chrome. Or just use a strap wrench, but it is possible to bend the seal holder if wrench is overtightened.


Moderated by  Allan Gill, Jon W. Whitley 

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