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Shim retaining cup 68-0638
#787383 10/18/19 12:14 pm
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Could anyone please measure the thickness of the shim cup for an A65. I thougth I should make one since I swapped the cases from A50 to late A65. I guess the other measurements isn´nt so important.


Thanks
Jan

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Re: Shim retaining cup 68-0638
Jan Hellinge #787384 10/18/19 12:29 pm
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.020″ thick.

Per Mike @ Walridge motors: When everything is bolted up with the correct thickness of shims in place, this cup is not entirely necessary. However it is useful to locate them when assembling the motor and keeps them properly in place should the alternator rotor nut ever come loose.

Re: Shim retaining cup 68-0638
MarcB #787386 10/18/19 12:44 pm
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Thanks!

I guess the best is to calculate the end float and the then make one thick shim.

Last edited by Jan Hellinge; 10/18/19 1:01 pm.
Re: Shim retaining cup 68-0638
Jan Hellinge #787399 10/18/19 3:46 pm
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If you have access to a lathe, you could make a spacer out of bronze to take up any end float

Dial indicator on the end of the crank and make a washer based off the end float you measure


[Linked Image from live.staticflickr.com]
Re: Shim retaining cup 68-0638
Jan Hellinge #787430 10/18/19 7:26 pm
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Originally Posted by Jan Hellinge
Thanks!

I guess the best is to calculate the end float and the then make one thick shim.


Yes i recon that is the best way...ive done it a few times ....i just used steel to make it out of....


"There's the way it ought to be and there's the way it is" (Sgt Barnes)
Re: Shim retaining cup 68-0638
Jan Hellinge #787454 10/19/19 12:28 am
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The i.d. of the original shims is much larger than the diameter of the crank, so the shim cup was there to keep the shims from sliding out of place. If you make your own shim(s) just make the i.d. close to the diameter of the crank and then the shim cup is unnecessary.

On one rebuild I did many years ago, I didn't have access to machines or a machinist, and I didn't know about McMaster & Carr, so I bought a couple of pieces of shim stock from a local industrial supply outlet and cut shims from that. I needed .026" so I used two .010" shims and one .006".

I cut the holes in all three pieces at once clamped between two pieces of plywood, with a hole saw, then cut the o.d. (which doesn't have to be at all precise) with shears.

The moral of this story is, "Where there's a will there's a way."


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Re: Shim retaining cup 68-0638
Jan Hellinge #788547 10/29/19 5:03 pm
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I think, one solid piece spacer would be more reliable than "stack-o-shims". Between each shim, you could have a little dust, oil, or warpage that just might interfere with an accurate and consistent end play.


keep your "oddies" lubricated, and carry a dime
Re: Shim retaining cup 68-0638
Jan Hellinge #788587 10/30/19 1:04 am
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I agree one shim is better. The real gist of my reply was to make the i.d. just clear the crank so it can't slide out of place (and then a shim cup is unnecessary).

The rest was just storytelling.


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.

Moderated by  Allan G, Jon W. Whitley 

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