Getting frame ready to paint and the last item was to remove the swingarm. Of course the the swingarm pivot was rusted to silentbloc bushings. After several failed attempts, I decided to melt rubber with a torch and remove the inner parts. Then used a sawzall and carefully cut the outer bush , allowing me to split it and remove. Now to find a good set of silentbloc bushings.
I have what I always thought was a 65 Lightning Rocket (rolling basket case) until recently based on the frame number A50B 8399 and the tank that came with it that looks just like the one you had chromed.
I asked the VMCC what I had and found that my frame started life as a 65 Spitfire Hornet. I may still restore it back to LR trim. The engine is non matching and it will never be "correct" regardless.
I would have given you the correct tail light setup, if you had put out a request; I have a spare on the shelf that I bought knowing I wouldn't need it as I no longer have anything older than '66. I couldn't help myself, it just looks so cool it could be a decoration.
Looking like a great project, keep it up.
GrandPaul (does not use emoticons) Author of the book "Old Bikes" Too many bikes to list, mostly Triumph & Norton, a BSA, & some Japanese "The Iron in your blood should be Vintage"
Was getting ready to install decal before final clear today and ran into a problem. The decal was lettering on a clear background. When on, the clear background showed up as foggy(terrible). Didnt want to ruin my nice paint job so I removed it. In the pic you can see texture left in paint from the sticker. Time to color sand. Looked at decal though magnifying glass and could see the texture.
Went to a local decal shop and having them make me one without the clear. It's always something. Btw the original decal was bought from Baxters.
If the last thing on there was 2k lacquer, you should be able to just clear over that again and the stippling will disapear, I think sanding it back first will cut you too close to the colour and you'll risk loosing the lustre from the red - from my expeience at least.
Im guessing its a water slide? I hate water slides, partially for the backing on them, you end up trying to remove all the gum to hide the opaque effect from the backing, plenty of luke warm water and drawing them between 2 fingers works but if not careful they can rip or stretch. Much prefer vinyl decals, they take more clear and sanding back to hide them in the lacquer but its worth it in the end.
I think when I did my tank it had about 12 coats before I flattened it back, the decal now is invisible to the tank, from what you can see on page (14) the 12 or so coats wasn't quite enough, Another time I will do many more. The Side panels were less succesful and now stand as an learning point/reminder.
I actually used a vinyl decal. It was very hard to remove backing from it. Your tank turned out great. Will use some of the tips from your post. Thanks, Bill
Thankyou and no worries. Tbh I'm still not overly happy with it even now, the side pannels really went west although the scratching from the zip on my leathers (rear sets) has made even more of an impact so im not too bothered there. The tank lacks some of the lustre in the finish, it could be the colour scheeme I used, which was a BSA flake silver base with a Honda candy red over the top (the more orangey colour of the BSA red is nicer!)
If I remember rightly I applied all my top coats before flatting back (leaving them tack dry before the next coat). Another time I will probably apply about 2-3 coats (depending of if still using the 2k aerosol or from an aircompressor) let that dry completely then apply some more coats, then flat that back for the decal. The lacquer bonds with the paint, so soon as you start flattening it back your also removing some of the colour - least thats how it appears.
Looks great! I found with mine the horn needed stepping away from the motor (I have the 1 piece bracket on mine) you might need to swap the little bracket so its behind the horn, not in front but still a really nice finish!