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A65 Questions #785832 09/29/19 11:16 pm
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NuToBSA Offline OP
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Hi Gents,

I'm new to the site and also new to BSAs. I have two A65s, a 1968 Thunderbolt that is kind of a bitsa and a 1969 Lightning with a 1972 motor. My questions are two:
1) I'm sllghtly customizing the Thunderbolt - cafe style. Does anyone make rearsets for A65s? and
2) Does anyone make sweptback exhaust pipes for A65s.
And, last one, any advantage in getting a two-into-one exhaust other than the weight reduction.

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated,

Pete in Ontario

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Re: A65 Questions [Re: NuToBSA] #785849 09/30/19 1:40 am
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NickL Offline
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The siamesed pipes if done properly will improve low and mid range pull.
Problem is,,,,,,,,getting them done properly and finding a suitable silencer that works with them.
Rearsets are hard to find but if you search this site, i think a bloke was making some.
You need a different kick start lever too. (Or bend your one and re-chrome it.)
Allen Gill has been through these exercises as has Gavin Eisler, try a pm to them.

Re: A65 Questions [Re: NuToBSA] #785878 09/30/19 1:02 pm
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Adam M. Offline
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I don't think anybody makes rear sets for BSA A65, same with pipes.
Times when people made cafe racers from those bikes are long gone, from time to time you can find something on eBay.
The best advice is Nick's above talk to those guys because they made them.
Where in Ontario are you, I'm building bitsa A65 myself.

Re: A65 Questions [Re: NuToBSA] #785882 09/30/19 1:45 pm
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koncretekid Offline
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You could build a Clubman replica, like mine. I did not make the proper rearsets, but Richard has the drawings and plans to do them properly. Note that my rearsets are simply the footpeg mounts reversed, with the brake arm mounted on the original passenger foot peg mount. You have to have folding foot pegs to be able to swing the kickstart arm.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Tom


Life's uncertain - go fast now!
Re: A65 Questions [Re: NuToBSA] #785935 09/30/19 11:05 pm
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NickL Offline
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This is a clubman copy i rebuilt the engine etc on, shows the rearsets etc.
https://imgur.com/FrNgGeZ
https://imgur.com/zvzbhQx
https://imgur.com/RNjqSHF

The rear brake was crap when i rode it compared to my own standard bike, you lose so much leverage over standard,
The close box was great for proper roads but a pain around the houses, the ace bars were ok once it got to 70mph.
I am too bloody old for all that nowadays, although i did get the back to step out a bit on a couple of left-handers.

Re: A65 Questions [Re: NuToBSA] #785956 10/01/19 4:06 am
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NuToBSA Offline OP
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Gentlemen,
Thanks to you all - it's great advice. The bike when done will be remarkably similar to the one in the photos posted by koncretekid, except mine will be black and have the stock seat. The footpeg arrangement will be as his is. The engine will, for now remain stock; I've got a Pazon ignition for it and a Podtronics to go on, and I have a 9" Grimeca front brake that will be laced into an alloy 19" rim.
Adam M., I live in L'Orignal which is on the Ottawa River almost exactly half-way between Montreal and Ottawa - 90 klicks to Ottawa and 85 to Montreal.

Re: A65 Questions [Re: NuToBSA] #785963 10/01/19 8:42 am
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gavin eisler Offline
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Unity Equipe used to sell swept backs, they come with one huge drawback, doing the timing becomes a very noisy affair, pipes off for access to timing strobe hole and points plate. Unless you are fitting a fairing dont bother.
AFAIk rear sets will need to be home brewed , Barleycorn eng make very good quality pegs in various folding rigid , pivoted pedal combos , that have useful pedal adjustability, you are still left with the issue of pedal stops and brake switches. The gear side is easy, turn the lever round and put a crank in it for clearance, using a folding peg to clear kicker. An LC kickstart gives much needed shin room when riding.
I reccomend fitting temp alloy peg brackets with some adjustability untill you find a sweet spot that fits you to the bike.


71 Devimead, John Hill, John Holmes A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
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Re: A65 Questions [Re: NuToBSA] #786075 10/02/19 2:22 pm
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koncretekid Offline
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Originally Posted by NuToBSA
Gentlemen,
Thanks to you all - it's great advice. The bike when done will be remarkably similar to the one in the photos posted by koncretekid, except mine will be black and have the stock seat. The footpeg arrangement will be as his is. The engine will, for now remain stock; I've got a Pazon ignition for it and a Podtronics to go on, and I have a 9" Grimeca front brake that will be laced into an alloy 19" rim.
Adam M., I live in L'Orignal which is on the Ottawa River almost exactly half-way between Montreal and Ottawa - 90 klicks to Ottawa and 85 to Montreal.


My son just sold his house in Toronto and is moving back to N.S. (Toronto getting too expensive). When we visited, we must have passed you by on a few trips.

Tom


Life's uncertain - go fast now!
Re: A65 Questions [Re: NuToBSA] #786094 10/02/19 7:38 pm
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Adam M. Offline
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You live only 550 km from my place.
Quite a distance to meet for coffee.:)

Re: A65 Questions [Re: NuToBSA] #786451 10/07/19 10:52 am
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Allan Gill Offline
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Ken Rowark in the UK, commishioned several sets of rear sets to be made up. There are some changes over standard which I have done in the last 5 years over standard clubman rear sets.

Firstly and most importantly the short pushrod is orignially 1/4" like the pull rod, problem is that the push rod will bend under braking force making it crap (which I think is what NickL may have had a problem with), with a 5/16" rod this isn't any where near as much a problem.

The second one in this area is the location of the holes where the push/pull rods mount to, I cant remember where I ended up with mine on pull ratio (maybe about 1:2.5) it might be a little less, the centres from the brake lever fulcrum to the linkage is shorter than the rotating bracket is at similar points. This will give more lever travel vs how far it pushes the "plate"/point where both rods meet (call it what you will) this will make the brake lighter to use, jsut before its loaded with the brake linkage at the top with a higher brake force. -hope this make sense

With both the above the back wheel can be locked at about 20mph (I don't fancy trying it at a higher speed) Obviously it also takes some effort to do this and about as much as it would take with the lever in the normal position.


... The normal lever set back from the swing arm fulcrum point is dangerous in my opinion, on a bumpy road it WILL cause a braking action. Hence why BSA created such a convoluted linkage, they didn't spend money if they didn't have to.

The other thing is the kickstart lever, the first one I bent looked like the BSA one, I found quickly that it become more of a rest for my boot than anything else. I later bent another lever with the bend nearer to the knuckle, I find this much better, looks neater and works better too IMO.

As for siamese you won't get a decent one unless you have one made (or make it yourself) or find an original one. I've tried Armours and Wassell, I've also used an original clubman one (longer than a normal lightning type and has a kick up part way down the pipe) The original one worked best and ran well with a wassell clubman silencer (although these don't seem to be available now) I have now made my own 2:1 copying the original pipe but much shorter and fitted with an original Dunstall megaphone Silencer. This works Really well.... Although just needs a tweak.


beerchug
Re: A65 Questions [Re: NuToBSA] #786550 10/08/19 7:19 am
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NickL Offline
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Koncrete Kid's footrest arrangement looks rather strange to me, both the levers don't angle down which is the normal position when using
rearsets and clipons. I think i would find that setup very uncomfortable and gear changes, hmm, taking your foot off the rest?
The lost leverage of the rear brake when compared to the standard bloody great long lever is inevitable i think. It wasn't the rod bending
as you couldn't really stand on the thing hard enough to do that as it's all parallel or has a very small offset. Then he's a big bloke
and probably a lot stronger than me. Given the job from scratch i'd use a hydraulic setup probably with a mini rear wheel cylinder.
The guy who owned the thing i rebuilt spent a long time searching before he had someone makeup a kickstart lever to suit. The original hits
your shin apparently.
When i stuck a set of avon tyres on it, it was also much improved steering wise. Progressive front springs were better too.
It was a nice old iron when finished.

Re: A65 Questions [Re: NuToBSA] #786587 10/08/19 7:47 pm
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gavin eisler Offline
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Barleycorn pedal with pivot on peg axis, the wood is for force amplification in maintenance mode.
I find this to be as good as the stock system, , I use the rear brake at the bottom of my gravel drive, just a dab when setting up for a bend , and in stop start traffic. if a siamese pipe is used things get a lot easier on the drive side. I had to crank out the brake pedal arm to clear the down pipe.

Attached Files IMG_0134.JPG

71 Devimead, John Hill, John Holmes A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: A65 Questions [Re: gavin eisler] #787375 10/18/19 7:37 am
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NuToBSA Offline OP
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Gentlemen,

Thank you for all your excellent advice - sorry I didn't reply sooner, but some medical issues got in the way. I'll post pictures of it in the spring, when hopefully all the work will be finished


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