Clutch was slipping last ride. I got a new thrust bearing, pull rod, and seals. No real sign of oil contamination, but the plate linings look a bit thin. Total thickness is 0.225", each lining is about 0.03" above the rivets. I can't find a spec for minimum thickness in the manual, but if this were a brake lining I'd be replacing it. Does anyone have a spec for this?
Go back to Triples on line & check out one of the site sponsors "Triples Unlimited" - Top right hand side of the home page .
They sell the thicker 7.6mm friction plate your searching for,
I've got a couple of triples on the road - one is running on the thicker plate & one is running the thinner stock plate , But i'll be buggered if I could really pick any difference between the two of them ???? , They're both good clutches ; easy to pull & neither of them slip or do anything different to the other one , Personally i reckon one of the best moves you can actually make while your pulling things apart is to swap out the original clutch pressure plate bearing for an Angular contact bearing , Don't forget to use a plastic drinking straw or wrap over the pull rod threads with electrical tape before fitting the oil seal - saves ripping up the sealing lip .
Thanks, but I already ordered a Surflex plate. Removed the housing today and cleaned it up. Of course, the previous 'mechanic' had installed the oil seal backwards! This keeps getting more expensive. The teeth are hooked, so I need to find a front sprocket for an early five speed. While I'm there I'm doing the Jack Wilson mod to the actuating mechanism. It really does increase lift.
Jack Wilson mod ? , If your looking for a simple mod that works without increasing any extra unnecessary strain on the pull rod getting it to lift & release squarely within the designed limits has to be high on the list , If you can ignore the extremely bad taste in background music Follow what this guy says about the paper release method , I greatly improved my clutch release without any machining just by jiggling & rotating the spring and pressure plate around and fitting into different positions . Also reducing the runout by finding the best fitting position of the clutch to gearbox mainshaft spline is worth checking as well , I marked my one with a centre punch mark just for future reference .
Just as a footnote ! .. when you disassemble the actual clutch drum take note of any small centre punch marks on or around the pressure plate fingers & drum outer .. They're not easily noticeable but the few clutches I've ever pulled apart have had these - i'm just presuming they're factory markings showing the original alignment of parts ,
Yes, I have that YouTube video up on another browser tab. I'll be following that when I assemble the clutch. I made my own center-punch marks before I took it apart to keep the balance. I will definitely try different locations on the hub and check runout. The mod consists of grinding off the stop in the outer case, removing the ramps from the case, grinding another notch about 5 degrees anticlockwise from the original and reinstalling the ramps. This locates the arm lower in the case and pulls through 3 O clock instead of starting there. Can't really say if it increases lift, but it makes it a whole lot easier to get clearance behind the nut and still have a working clutch.
I'm aware of that mod but I didn't know someone had actually claimed it as theirs,
You miss my point about looking out for the original centre punch marks, There might have been a dozen previous owners digging around in there before you mixing up the order of parts at reassembly ?, You never know - the clutch might work smoother and not need that extra lift & resulting strain on the pull rod if the originally matched parts were paired back together again,
Jack Wilson was head mechanic at Big D Cycle in Texas and worked on their Trident based LSR machines. I had the pleasure of meeting Jack at the Georgia TIOC rally in the late 80s. He and John Healy co-hosted the tech session There he explained the procedure. It was also later written up in Triple Echo. I presume that he invented it.
I will inspect the parts to see if there are any other punch marks, though there was no indication of being out of balance when running. It is obvious that the clutch was out at some time, The heads of a couple of the screws which hold the housing on are buggered up from the wrong screwdriver. However, judging from the condition of the tab washers, I don't think they disassembled the clutch.
Follow what this guy says about the paper release method , I greatly improved my clutch release without any machining just by jiggling & rotating the spring and pressure plate around and fitting into different positions . Also reducing the runout by finding the best fitting position of the clutch to gearbox mainshaft spline is worth checking as well , I marked my one with a centre punch mark just for future reference .
I must have got lucky. All the paper strips came out at the same point. I couldn't manage to keep the gauge in the same place, so I'm not sure how much lift it took. I just spent an hour trying out different spline positions. Best runout I could get was about 10 thou, worst was about 14. Not extremely accurate though, $50 gauge and definitely not a granite testing table. Also not sure how accurate this test can be without being able to reach full torque spec on the nut.
Too many variables for me. How many different positions on the clutch hub do we try? We're getting close to BSA land here. Hire an expert machinist and blueprint everything, charge twice as much and built a perfect machine. Or as close as the design allows.