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C.B.S
Lancaster, California
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Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782562 08/25/19 5:23 pm
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...if I remember right; I connected the regulator "earth" to the bolt in the frame and the hot wire to the hot wire used with the zener. Is all working.
The stator wires are perfectly connected. I will check the voltage with those numbers.

Yes, may be is just that I killed the battery with the gloves, then the traffic jams did not helped but still plenty of km on the road at 4200 or more and battery with light in Red.
Yes, I will do the volt meter test; I need to find one with alligator clips or similar. Also now I dismantled the rear stuff to try to put the wiring cover that goes inside the rear mudguard; fix the external filter holder (that when I find a timing cover I will remove it forever) and connect the rear brake light wires that were missed.
All crap bad done by PO.

-I do not have a problem with chest etc; I have enough warm there; the problem (other riders too) is with the hands and the legs before the feet. These gloves have plenty of layers and many reviews in other countries like USA, say that they use them without plug in...not possible in Winter here. I am on the road for few hours normally.

Hi Wilfred, my riding sometimes is by night and as you see in your experience, the old stuff do not work. Also, I removed the zener diode and rectifier due to not working not because I want these new devices.



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Re: battery and kilometers
Allan G #782563 08/25/19 5:36 pm
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Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782670 08/26/19 3:25 pm
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...if its made for more than one zener diode and now I have a Podtronics instead of one zener and rectifier; I assume that still the Podtronics can handle it?

Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782671 08/26/19 3:31 pm
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If it's a 5 wire Podtronics then there's no problem.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782672 08/26/19 3:44 pm
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Allen's right, if the Podtronics is three phase it will have 3 yellow wires which connect to the alternator. one red wire (usually earth) and one black wire to connect to the battery.

The 3 phase Podtronics are rated at 240 watts which is more than the high output RM24 can produce (180watts) and much more than the low output RM24 (120 watts).


1968 A65 Firebird
1967 B44 Shooting Star
1972 Norton Commando
Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782679 08/26/19 5:44 pm
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...yes, of course is three phase; is a RM24 that is three phase...but what was the point for the RM24 if provide 120W? similar to the previous iterations; could be provide such Watts at lower RPMs than the others? Then for the 80s models came these 180W high outputs

Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782681 08/26/19 6:06 pm
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Regardless of the total output. The RM24 achieves that earlier in the Rev range than the single phase units. Even the RM23


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782698 08/26/19 11:19 pm
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...hi Allan, seems that we are talking the same.
I refitted the external filter etc then did the test at idling and revving. I still do not find a volt meter with alligator clips and smaller enough.
Anyway, I had bad numbers so very possible that stator or one of the phases is not working properly.
12.65 battery. Idling a bit less; then with pilot light and tail light decrease at 12.38V then with low beam went down to 12.25 and then I start to rev at 2500 or so.
Somewhat complicated to grab the volt meter pins and to rev but the battery light was in RED; read 13 something and a bit of 14 something but overall not good.
I thought that idling with pilot and tail lights the consume could be a bit less than 12.65V.

I do not think that the Podtronics is not acting due to I do not have something like 16V or more but may be it reduce too much the power?
Also I do not think that some wire is keeping some consume because I do not finish with a flat battery over the night.

I think that is time to spend big Dollars in the Smartfire for dual plug head, the stator, a timing cover and smaller bits.

Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782739 08/27/19 6:33 am
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Is it possible to measure directly across the AC output of the stator?

I think there are some resistance values also to check but I don’t know what they are.

Like you I don’t think the Pod is the problem, disconnecting from the battery (if possible) should show a maximum output from the pod without it having to work against the resistance of the battery. If you did this test first then it might save you checking the stator directly.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782743 08/27/19 8:01 am
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It's unlikely the Pod unit is playing up. They are pretty good.
As i said before the connections to the stator are normally the problem as are good battery connections.
The resistance of the stator coils is very small,less than a couple of ohms. If you measure between any pair of the stator wires.
Also check that there is NO connection between the stator wires and frame/earth/ground whatever you want to call it.
Measuring the Pod output with no battery can be misleading unless using an accurate analogue type meter, you will tend to read
the peak voltages. The better way is to measure with the battery connected as this will absorb the peaks like a large capacitor.
The reading should be around 14.5v dc when the bike is at around 2000rpm if the battery is healthy and no lights are on.

Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782773 08/27/19 5:48 pm
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...if I have the Podtronics connected to the battery and I have been measuring directly to the battery, I was not measuring the Podtronics?

Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782777 08/27/19 6:24 pm
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Your measuring the output of the Podtronics against the resistance of the battery. If the Podtronics has a peak limited output (I’ve probably just
Made that term up) say 16vdc then disconnected from the battery is should give that max output.

In some CDI systems I have seen 50v unregulated when disconnected from the battery, on the same bike it was also killing off batteries. About 1 a season.

Working back through the system you should be able to pin point anything, I’m not shooting anyone’s advice down on here, guys like Nick blow my knowledge way out of the water on these old turds.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Re: battery and kilometers
Allan G #782786 08/27/19 7:23 pm
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Originally Posted by reverb
...if I have the podtronics connected to the battery and I have been measuring directly to the battery, I was not measuring the podtronics?


Yes , but you're measuring the pod voltage under a variable load ...

At a minimum ,
The ignition load .

But also the battery as a load .

.. the battery never disappears from circuit ... unless you remove it from circuit.
The battery imposes its own 'variable load' on the Pod Tronics ... depending on its state of charge ( and health )
... this , like all other loads ...shows up as voltage drop.

(The resistance of a battery goes down as it charges ) ( and voltage of the alternator- battery circuit increases)
If a battery has gone high resistance... it places a higher load on the alternators output ... that will not
Go away because the battery isnt really able to charge .

Its possible your low voltage readings are, at least partially , a battery problem.

Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782810 08/27/19 10:42 pm
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Actually Q, the batter's resistance increases as it charges, that's why at full charge
the incoming voltage from a charging circuit will be supplying less current. VIR and all that........
Anyway that doesn't matter at the moment, just sort the wiring/connections out Fernando and your
problems will probably go away.

Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782812 08/27/19 10:51 pm
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Hi Quinten; both (older and new) batteries have the problem so the problem is not with the battery.

Hi Niquel, so exactly where should I put the voltmeter pins to achieve a good measure of the Podtronics? Is not clearly for me, hence the question in previous comment. If I disconnect the Red and Black wire from the hot wire and the earthed bolt the Podtronics would be disconnected from the battery...if I let the connections is like to read the battery; so I do not get or I still I cannot visualize something.

Thanks

Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782816 08/27/19 10:59 pm
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The pod should be directly connected to the battery with as few in line connections as possible.
You can then measure the voltage at the battery. + - terminals.
Make up a couple of leads so you can see your meter easily when you operate the throttle.

Re: battery and kilometers
NickL #782817 08/27/19 11:11 pm
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Why is not the same to have the Red wire connected to the hot wire that goes to the battery; is just the same current...also still do not get it why is not like I have been measuring; I mean I touch the positive and negative of the battery...I understand about that the battery is like a resistance but I have been having those numbers; 13 something and 14 something but plenty of voltage drop at idling. No doubt that is the stator.

Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782849 08/28/19 8:24 am
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I'm not very good at explaining stuff, sorry.

If you are testing the system as i said with the battery in circuit, you should get around 14.5 volts at 2000 rpm with no lights on.
This voltage may take a while to get up to that if the battery is not very good.
When you let the bike idle, the voltage will drop as the alternator is probably not able to run the ignition and keep the battery
on charge at around 800-1000 rpm.

If you have measured the stator leads as mentioned before, the stator is ok. All 3 phases should be working if you measure across any two leads and read less than 2 ohms.
You need to do this for all the combinations of the 3 wires. Example: A-B A-C B- C And any phase to Frame, if there is a circuit to frame the stator is faulty or one of it's
wires has lost it's insulation.

With the stator being ok, the rotor needs to be well magnetized for a good output and the air gap needs to be around 8 thou all around the fitted rotor.

Re: battery and kilometers
reverb #782877 08/28/19 5:34 pm
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Monitor voltage and current, increase cable size, install LED lights, cycle the power to the gloves/grips,

In the UK, if it's time for heated gloves then it's time for a Land Rover.

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