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Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #792891 12/14/19 10:15 am
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It’s not something I’ve ever seen mid way up the rod, I used to do it near the end cap one dot for TS on both rod and cap and 2 dots on DS. This way you would also know which way round the caps were and which went to the front of the motor. I only fit new rods now and these are date marked covering both cap and rod by the maker so makes life easier on that way.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

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Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #792897 12/14/19 2:13 pm
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No dots on my older 6866 rods, other than a number on rods and cups,however I have two oil holes in one rod so assume this is a drive side rod. Would like to get newer shot peened rods anyway.

Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #792899 12/14/19 2:33 pm
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I recently had my A65 crank dynamic balanced and asked the shop if they could shot peen my rods. The guy said that alloy rods are not shot peened unless they are going to be resized.
I think I'm going to hear other opinions on this.


1966 BSA Lightning
(2) 1967 Triumph "Choppa"s
1974 Indian ME125
1960 Harley Servi-Car
Re: Barn Find Beeza
Nick H #792937 12/14/19 9:29 pm
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Originally Posted by Nick H
I recently had my A65 crank dynamic balanced and asked the shop if they could shot peen my rods. The guy said that alloy rods are not shot peened unless they are going to be resized.
I think I'm going to hear other opinions on this.


New ones might not be but 70-73 ones were.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #795494 01/13/20 1:26 am
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Finally, an update! Got all the frame parts back from powder coating, and fitted the center stand to the frame, loaded it up onto the ramp:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Getting the center stand spring on was an almighty pain, until I read the service manual and used that method...who'da thunk it? Also, I forget I needed split pins for the center stand pivot, so I rednecked a split pin with a nail:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Although 'rednecking' may not be fair, it's not far from factory laughing. Proper split pins coming soon...

Here's the trial build of the engine. I haven't added the sealing goo between the halves yet, this was a trial build to check end float. Now happy with it, so final assembly should be coming soon:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

The plan is to complete the bottom end rebuild and then put the engine into the frame whilst there's nothing else in it, on the basis that that's the easiest way to get the engine in and bolted down. Then I'll complete the engine rebuild in the frame. Wish me luck!


Last edited by Psychopasta; 01/13/20 1:34 am.
Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #796611 01/26/20 1:42 am
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Ok, so today was get the engine back into the frame day. It's much easier if you do this before the swing arm goes in. Start off with fiuxing the engine mounting plates to the motor:



[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]



Use a lifetime's supply of painters' tape on the frame:



[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]



And in she goes, with the help of a rubber hammer to center things and a heavy-ish hammer to knock the bolts through:



[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]



Pleased with this. No scratching of the newly-painted frame, and I'm now in a position to work on several parallel jobs if one job gets held up by something unforeseen

Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #796631 01/26/20 7:01 am
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The front chain guard does not appear to be there.
If it does not go in now, it never will.


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Trevor
Re: Barn Find Beeza
BSA_WM20 #796634 01/26/20 8:15 am
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Originally Posted by BSA_WM20
The front chain guard does not appear to be there.
If it does not go in now, it never will.


They will go but it usually takes a couple of hours and a bit of swearing.

Did you remember to put the packing pieces in?(bottom engine bolt)


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #796663 01/26/20 6:34 pm
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Packing pieces? Chain guard? Oh Lordy...

Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #796671 01/26/20 7:29 pm
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Packing pieces go between the motor and the lower frame rail, like thick washers. Too often they get missed out and the frame rails get pulled to the engine, creating a bow, or better a guitar string which will amplify any vibration. I made my own with washers but if you have a lathe you can also make them up to the right size.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #796672 01/26/20 7:31 pm
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"packing pieces" = spacers. A plate attaches to the engine case on the inside of the chain cavity by two hex(?)screws.

Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #796673 01/26/20 7:40 pm
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"A plate attaches to the engine case on the inside of the chain cavity by two hex(?)screws."

The screws are 2BA , cheese heads I think, with locking washers. Same threads as the carb top covers and float bowls.
The lower mount packing piece is important, try a few 3/8" ID washers and see what combo fits best, if you dont fit it/ them then the frame gets sprung in by the bolt when tightened and amplifies engine vibration.


71 Devimead, John Hill, John Holmes A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #796680 01/26/20 9:24 pm
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Thanks guys. I don't believe the bike came with them originally, I don't recall taking them off and have no photos of them. Same goes for the chain guard.

Seriously, thanks for pointing this out, otherwise I would have never known. ohno

Last edited by Psychopasta; 01/26/20 9:24 pm.
Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #796682 01/26/20 9:52 pm
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Looking good!!!


Bill
1974 Norton Commando
1966 Lightning
1965 Lightning Rocket
1966 Norton Atlas
1967 Norton Atlas
1948 Panhead
Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #796701 01/27/20 3:07 am
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That is what we are here for.
So you don't make the same mistake we all have before.

Now back to those barrels ,
I would send them out for an x-ray to make sure that the holes are at the root tip of the crack.
The positin go a relief hole is very important .
Too close and the crack passes right through it and you far away and the crack will divert around it.


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Trevor
Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #796764 01/27/20 7:25 pm
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dye penetrant or magnetic particle (Magnaflux) would work for that inspection.

Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #796799 01/28/20 1:29 am
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Mag partical would work because it can find the tip of the crack regardless of weather it has migrated to the surface in the hands of a good operator.
Dye penetrant can only find cracks that have reached the surface.
It could be a V shaped crack and the tip could be quite a few mm in advance of the spot when the crack makes the surface on either side.
Because it is a thin section casting there is a better than average chance it has grains perpendicular to the cylinder wall in which case it could be a chisel ended crack running between the grains.
An x-ray is the best way of testing the crack
the 2nd would be ultrasound but your hands are tied cause the grain size generally means using lower end refquencies and the ring down zone ends up being near 1/2 the thichness of the spiggot wall.
Now the gear has gotten a lot better since I played with it and you should be able to get a decent image using a compound transducer.


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Trevor
Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #801871 03/19/20 12:56 am
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I'm having trouble getting the new swingarm bushes into the swingarm. Even with heat to the swingarm and freezing the bushes, they are a damn tight fit. I'm thinking I need to give the job to someone with a hydraulic press, but is there any secret-squirrel method I'm missing?

Last edited by Psychopasta; 03/19/20 12:57 am.
Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #801883 03/19/20 2:49 am
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Yes, proper installation will require a press. That is the smart squirrel method.

Don in Nipomo

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Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #801920 03/19/20 2:23 pm
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If you have a lathe , make a double diameter pushing piece ( drilled through centre for 1/2" + clearance) that fits the bore of the bush and the bore of the SA, mine drew in with a 1/2 " screwed rod through the middle and some nuts to squeeze it together.
Make sure the bore of the SA is shiny bright, de burred and check ID matches Bush OD. A whizz with some 100 grit wrapped round a stick in a power drill will help clean the SA bore .


71 Devimead, John Hill, John Holmes A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
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Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #804426 04/07/20 6:32 pm
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Moving on to the gearbox now. Here it is in original assembled form, shifting through the gears

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

and here it is being stripped down:

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

All looks good to me, but most things do when you don't know what you're doing...any thoughts from the experts on here?

Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #804430 04/07/20 7:17 pm
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The most important thing is layshaft endfloat, this should be ~ 0.003"
Assemble just the lay shaft and its gears / spacers into the end plate and bolt up, check the end float with a clock gauge if you can, a crude test is a push / pull , 0.003" is just perceptible, if it clunks its too much, the spacing is set by the thick spacer that buts between the end gear and the drive side. or an accurate reading can me made by putting lead wire around the shaft between the end layshaft gear and the drive side . Bolt up to squish the lead, strip , measure lead thickness, subtract 0.003 , thats how thick the spacer should be.

Take an oil stone across the faces of all gears with dogs , stone off any raised burrs. This stop the gears trying to skip out as they enter the female dog holes. Same goes for female dog holes , stone off any raised burrs.

polish the face of the cam plate where the selector forks run. Polish the track of the cam plate plunger.

Cut two turns off the index plunger spring, if it hasnt been trimmed already. This makes the change a little lighter and more positive.


71 Devimead, John Hill, John Holmes A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
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Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #804459 04/07/20 11:01 pm
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As Gavin says plus the selector forks should be a snug fit in the sliding gear slots,
One shown seems worn quite badly, probably due to the mainshaft nut coming loose.
You can radius the end of the plunger a little so it fits nicely into the cam plate notches
without digging into the plate. Cut a couple of turns off the spring as well.
Layshaft endfloat is all important.

Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #804490 04/08/20 6:08 am
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As Gavin says, I followed his advice and was happy with the result. The TS shim is usually always there but I think the DS shim often gets lost when people remove the box. The thickest one (is it 1/4” - 0.250”?” Goes towards the TS, then you make up the correct end float with what’s left, I ordered my shim from SRM (I don’t know if all vendors keep them in stock)

+1 to the trimming the spring and radius’ing the plunger, I read about the spring some time ago but thought mines fine and carried on, I don’t know how bad it was to start with but after about 5000 miles of my use the index plunger had worn a perfect groove through the tracks and it was no longer able to select. Fitted another plate and did the above mods and it’s been fine since. You loose some of the feeling of a definite “yes it’s in”, but it also feels a much slicker change and much better.


Now let’s all have a beer beerchug

68’ A65 Lightning “clubman”
71’ A65 823 Thunderbolt (undergoing restoration)
67’ D10 sportsman (undergoing restoration)
68’ D14 trials (undergoing transformation)

Re: Barn Find Beeza
Psychopasta #804676 04/09/20 4:38 pm
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Thanks guys, all advice duly noted :-)

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