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Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784783 09/19/19 2:40 pm
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1966 BSA Lightning
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1974 Indian ME125
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Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784789 09/19/19 4:58 pm
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Psychopasta Offline OP
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Thanks!

Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784796 09/19/19 7:40 pm
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Ola Offline
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To separate the idler gear from the aa-unit, you can put approx 1∕2 inch of a suitable nail or bolt in the hole, and use the headlight fixing bolt as a puller.

Last edited by Ola; 09/19/19 7:40 pm.

There are no bosses in a technical discussion
(Doug Hele, 1919 - 2001)
Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784879 09/20/19 7:56 pm
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Thanks all. Got the idler off just fine.

I have something else I'd like your advice on. On the clutch, I have the three retaining bolts

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

and I have a tool for them from CBS. The top two respond just fine, but the third one, at the bottom, doesn't. The slots are pretty graunched up to begin with, but as I try to turn the screw I can feel the spring behind resist me until the tool loses purchase on the slot and slips out. The slot springs back to its original position. Any experience with this?

Last edited by Psychopasta; 09/20/19 7:57 pm.
Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784883 09/20/19 8:28 pm
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The spring is wound is the same way a lock washer is... so it effectively "holds" the screw in place and bites as you try to undo it. Being a spring, it will twist in place and pop back the second you let go. You'll never to overcome the friction to get it undone.

Try putting a bit of weight against it as you undo it to prevent the tool from popping out. Once it starts it will be much easier.

The spring cups look pretty knackered on yours as well.

Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784884 09/20/19 8:57 pm
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Thanks. I can see drilling two small holes into this screw to give the tool more to bite into. I'm going to replace this with an SRM clutch so don't mind being a little destructive

Last edited by Psychopasta; 09/20/19 8:58 pm.
Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784891 09/20/19 10:17 pm
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Drilling those two small indents let me get the screw off
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
The other two came off, and the cover came off complete with the cover over the cush drive rubbers:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
so I removed the rubbers as well. You can see two broken-off studs still in the clutch basket:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
I was able to get the clutch nut off with an air-powered impact driver, just like Mike Brown says in his book.

Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784896 09/20/19 11:19 pm
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gavin eisler Online Content
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What does the other side of the end plate that fell off look like?


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Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784904 09/21/19 12:37 am
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Like so:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784938 09/21/19 9:37 am
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that looks pretty unworn, just unlucky with the broken studs.


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Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784940 09/21/19 9:49 am
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NickL Offline
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It's got an aftermarket one piece bronze timing side main bush in it.

Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784942 09/21/19 10:30 am
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gavin eisler Online Content
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Once you get the clutch in bits compare the wear on the inner cush drive end plate to the relatively unworn outer, thats where all the slop tends to appear , you can see the spider wear marks in the pics. IME its cheaper in the long run to fit a complete new cush drive rather than try to repair old worn items.


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Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784966 09/21/19 3:45 pm
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Thanks very much guys, I appreciate the help. I know nothing about BSAs of this vintage, so I'm learning as I go.

@NickL, do you mean the bushing the pinion is in, or some other:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784974 09/21/19 5:01 pm
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gavin eisler Online Content
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Nick means the large bush behind the crank end pinion. The nut securing the pinion and worm drive is a Left hand Thread, to pull the pinion you will probably have to grind down the claws of a small puller to get into the notches at the rear of the pinion. Do not be tempted to pull the gear through the bush, that guarantees destruction. before you do that check for up and down play in the bush mentioned , more than 0.0015 " is not good. The 70 in front of the casting mark, suggests 1970 cases , could be wrong though.


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Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784975 09/21/19 5:06 pm
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The timing chest looks pretty clean in side, by comparison my motor has a load more staining and varnish on the inner surfaces, could be its barely run since last opened up. What threads are the case 1/4" diameter fasteners, fine ( BSF) or coarse , UNC?


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Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784988 09/21/19 7:41 pm
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Something else to check at this stage, beneath the main shaft of the gearbox there is the layshaft, before stripping any further check the end float of the layshaft, it should be " just perceptible" or about 2- 3 thou if it clunks measure how much there is so you can shim correctly on the rebuild, this one small step will make or mar the gear change.


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Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784989 09/21/19 8:07 pm
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OK, so here's where I got to today. I'll go back and make the measurements Gavin suggested. Alternator and clutch are now full off, with no major issues. Hand pressure with a pickle fork got the rotor off:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
and here's the removed assembly
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

and the rotor passes the toolbox test:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Last edited by Psychopasta; 09/21/19 8:11 pm.
Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784994 09/21/19 9:21 pm
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gavin eisler Online Content
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Be nice to the rotor , keep it wrapped in the stator or the magnetism will bleed away.

To get a decent endfloat measurement on the crank its best if the rotor and sprocket are still fitted otherwise it wont make any sense.
Temp refit the the front sprocket and rotor with nut tight before taking end floats if you havent done so already. Theres two ways the crank wears, thrust end to end , and up and down , gotta know both , the thrust is looked after by a fancy bronze washer and some shims at the drive side bearing, if you get a reading now it will save some time on reassembly, at least you will know if it needs , no shimming or + 10 or whatever.
For up and down you are looking at wear at the timing side bush, a clock gauge is the usual way, but as Nick suggests , if you can get a 2 thou feeler into the bush / crank you know its Fecked.
Theres meant to be a washer behind the chain tensioner blade, and the crank to sprocket spacer is still sitting in the oi seal at the mains. On the TS , there is no tab washer fitted to the mainshaft nut , good job you are in there.


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Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #784997 09/21/19 9:39 pm
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Put up a few good pics of the drive side crank cases around the engine numbers, the primary case and timing case screws, and one or two of the barrel flanges and flange nuts.
The number boss is late, the cases around the boss look like they have been buffed down , there is usually a prominent casting flash running vertically around where the L is in the motor number.

Last edited by gavin eisler; 09/21/19 9:42 pm.

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Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: gavin eisler] #784998 09/21/19 9:55 pm
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quinten Offline
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.
buried in some official workshop manuals
... it states ... a rotor keeper is not needed .


.

Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #785004 09/21/19 10:49 pm
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gavin eisler Online Content
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When I bought my last rotor it came with a keeper. Dont take any chances with magnetism. Once its gone you need to have sex with a welder to get it back. The manual is just marks on paper.

Last edited by gavin eisler; 09/21/19 10:50 pm. Reason: drunk

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Cagiva Raptor 650
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Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: gavin eisler] #785008 09/21/19 11:27 pm
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Psychopasta Offline OP
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You have quite the way the words there Gavin. I'll keep the rotor inside the armature at all times.

Sadly I didn't think of measuring the end float prior to disassembly and do not yet have a dial gauge. I did get th gearbox out however:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

BTW, it ran rich when it last ran:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #785009 09/21/19 11:29 pm
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And here are the requested photos:
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #785013 09/21/19 11:47 pm
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Jon W. Whitley Online Content
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Definitely 1970 model engine.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


Jon W.


1957 6T Thunderbird 650
1968 T100R Daytona 500
1971 TR6R Tiger 650
1970 BSA A65F 650
1955 Tiger 100 - Project
1971 BSA A65 650 - Project
1972 Norton Commando 750 "Combat"

Re: Barn Find Beeza [Re: Psychopasta] #785023 09/22/19 12:47 am
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gavin eisler Online Content
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Put the gear cluster back in temp, do up the nuts and make the end float measurement, if you dont do it now do it on the rebuild, doing it now lets you buy the right shim in time. These cases look buffed to me, someone might have cared for this motor.


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