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clutch #773076
05/08/19 10:52 pm
05/08/19 10:52 pm
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 37
Tualatin
J
johnpl Offline OP
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johnpl  Offline OP
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J

Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 37
Tualatin
It seems as if I have developed arthritis in my left hand and it makes working the clutch on my 1966 Bonneville difficult to say the least. To the point I may have to give up on this particular bike. Is anyone aware of a method or possibly parts replacement to ease the amount of effort it takes to engage the clutch? I have a XS 650 Yamaha and I seem to be able to work that clutch fairly well.

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Re: clutch [Re: johnpl] #773085
05/08/19 11:55 pm
05/08/19 11:55 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,592
Vermont
Jon W. Whitley Offline

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Jon W. Whitley  Offline

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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,592
Vermont
Here's a start to your quest.


http://www.britcycle.com/Products/55820.htm


Jon W.


1957 6T Thunderbird 650
1968 T100R Daytona 500
1971 TR6R Tiger 650
1970 BSA A65F 650
1955 Tiger 100 - Project

Re: clutch [Re: johnpl] #773099
05/09/19 1:49 am
05/09/19 1:49 am
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,318
arkansas
L
leon bee Offline
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leon bee  Offline
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L

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,318
arkansas
There are other things you can try, pardon if you know all this already. The clutch cable itself is very important- routed smoothly and lubricated well. This can make a big difference sometimes, more than you'd expect. I've also just given up on old cables before even when it seems they should work well. Even the lever could make a difference. Then, have you tried slacking the clutch springs? Sometimes you can back them off without the clutch wanting to slip.

Another thing perhaps not applicable to you is trying different springs. I'm sure I have at least a gallon of those springs here and I try different ones. These were out of a lot of different bikes, so while they all look the same they're not. When I have a clutch too stiff I look thru there and find some shorter and try them. I don't ever glue a primary gasket on, may be in there several times. I have to do it now, a bike I built over the winter seemed fine but get her out on the road I just about need both hands on the lever.

Re: clutch [Re: Jon W. Whitley] #773146
05/09/19 2:15 pm
05/09/19 2:15 pm
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 37
Tualatin
J
johnpl Offline OP
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johnpl  Offline OP
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J

Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 37
Tualatin
The hydraulic clutch kit sounds like the hot ticket. Anyone had any experience using one of these? It appears as though installation is pretty simple?

Re: clutch [Re: johnpl] #773152
05/09/19 3:22 pm
05/09/19 3:22 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 5,239
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content

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Magnetoman  Online Content

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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 5,239
U.S.
Originally Posted by johnpl
The hydraulic clutch kit sounds like the hot ticket.
Before you commit to a hydraulic clutch, somewhere on Britbike a few years ago I posted measurements I made on my old British clutches and modern Ducati hydraulic clutches and I remember the results as being pretty much the same.

Just a few days ago I re-oiled the cable on a Gold Star and it made a significant improvement in the clutch pull. Also, you well might have your current clutch springs adjusted much tighter than they need to be (and your old clutch plates may have reduced friction requiring more force to clamp them than new plates might). Further, the simple bearingless pivot of the clutch lever can wear into the "bolt" with time, which significantly increases the friction. Anyway, the point is, a properly adjusted and maintained Triumph clutch could give you the same pull as a replacement hydraulic clutch.

-- new, teflon-lined clutch cable
-- inspect, repair, and grease clutch lever pivot
-- set clutch springs for minimum pull consistent with not slipping
-- inspect clutch plates and consider replacing them

Re: clutch [Re: johnpl] #773153
05/09/19 3:39 pm
05/09/19 3:39 pm
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,560
West Yorkshire
Allan Gill Online happy

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Allan Gill  Online Happy

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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,560
West Yorkshire
Any time I've used a hydraulic clutch (albeit a modern bike) I haven't found them particually light.

Most of the time the problem with a heavy clutch is poor set-up or friction in the cable, because of this I make my own clutch cables from the Venhill kits and find the best route which causes minium drag on the cable.
once this is achieved, I solder a nipple to the lever end, then check for free movement again,
then fit the trumpet nipple and attach to the clutch. I used to be cable to get the 3-spring clutch to be quite light, the SRM clutch pressure plate will also help.

another thing that will make a difference is the distance from the fulcrum point to the barrel nipple on the handle bar lever, the bigger the distance (ie 1") will have more weight than a 7/8" distance lever. With the 1" you wouldn't have to move the lever as far to get full lift but because every inch of movement at the ball end of the lever will lift the clutch x amount more than the 7/8" lever it will feel heavier because of it. Like wise if you were to adjust the distance at the receiving end of the cable and LENGTHEN that (fabrication time) then this will have less lift at the clutch per degree of rotation than if it was shorter.

If you already have the standard 7/8" perch then you could try moving the lever further along the bar so that the area which your gripping is towards the end of the lever - this will also help.

What you need to remember is that the hydraulic system is just like a cable without friction problems. if you don't have the master matched up properly with the slave then this can also be heavy.


beerchug
Re: clutch [Re: Magnetoman] #773276
05/10/19 9:14 pm
05/10/19 9:14 pm
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 37
Tualatin
J
johnpl Offline OP
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johnpl  Offline OP
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Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 37
Tualatin
So I like the idea of adjusting the springs to reduce the force required to operate the clutch but I am not sure of the proper method. Should I just turn the nuts out to reduce the pressure?

Re: clutch [Re: johnpl] #773294
05/10/19 11:37 pm
05/10/19 11:37 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,757
Owego, NY, USA
Mark Z Offline
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Mark Z  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,757
Owego, NY, USA
Originally Posted by johnpl
So I like the idea of adjusting the springs to reduce the force required to operate the clutch but I am not sure of the proper method. Should I just turn the nuts out to reduce the pressure?


Yes, but, unless they've already been shaved off, there's a tit on the underside of the clutch nut that catches on the end of the spring when you try to turn the nut counter-clockwise. If you can, try to get a thin screwdriver between the nut and the spring, or push in on the end of the spring. Back off the nuts more than enough, and then re-tighten to make your adjustment. I think you'll find that the nuts will need to be at least flush with the ends of the studs in order to exert sufficient force.

I too became a believer in oiling the cable years ago, after the first time I hung it and dripped oil with a stopper-bottle until it ran out the other end. My A65 is a two-finger pull, and I haven't been particular about spring tension. But, I have the earlier "straight pull" linkage instead of that abominable ball-and-ramp affair, which can be problematic in itself. Which do you have?


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.
Re: clutch [Re: johnpl] #773326
05/11/19 5:46 am
05/11/19 5:46 am
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 5,470
Crossville, TN
DavidP Offline

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DavidP  Offline

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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 5,470
Crossville, TN
I too am a fan of proper cable lubrication. BUT, where can one buy a cable which isn't lined with some material which reacts badly to lubrication?
And how does one know? They're all lined with some sort of plastic these days.


Stepping on others doesn't make you stand tall.

71 A65L "Zelda"
92 BMW K100rs "Gustav"
72 T120V cafe project "Mr. Jim"
72 T150V "Wotan"
Re: clutch [Re: DavidP] #773330
05/11/19 6:28 am
05/11/19 6:28 am
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 822
Great Southern Land
tridentt150v Online content
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tridentt150v  Online Content
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Posts: 822
Great Southern Land
Originally Posted by DavidP
I too am a fan of proper cable lubrication. BUT, where can one buy a cable which isn't lined with some material which reacts badly to lubrication?
And how does one know? They're all lined with some sort of plastic these days.

But you then use the proper lube, Teflon/silicon based stuff. Heaps of versions out there for the discerning shopper!!!

Some owners have had great success with the 7 plate conversion kits and lighter springs.

Re: clutch [Re: johnpl] #773419
05/12/19 4:24 am
05/12/19 4:24 am
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 5,470
Crossville, TN
DavidP Offline

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DavidP  Offline

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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 5,470
Crossville, TN
Last time I used "Teflon" synthetic lube on a Barnetts cable it became unusable. Still can't pull that cable.
So, does anyone make unlined cables? Maybe the kind with lube zirks in the cable?


Stepping on others doesn't make you stand tall.

71 A65L "Zelda"
92 BMW K100rs "Gustav"
72 T120V cafe project "Mr. Jim"
72 T150V "Wotan"
Re: clutch [Re: johnpl] #773428
05/12/19 5:18 am
05/12/19 5:18 am
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 4,479
Oceania
N
NickL Offline
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NickL  Offline
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N

Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 4,479
Oceania
Venhill?

Re: clutch [Re: johnpl] #773434
05/12/19 7:19 am
05/12/19 7:19 am
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,560
West Yorkshire
Allan Gill Online happy

BritBike Forum member
Allan Gill  Online Happy

BritBike Forum member

Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,560
West Yorkshire
Some lines cables are designed not to be lubricated. I’ve noticed venhill have changed the colour of their liners, from white to red (or the other way round) quite possibly for lubricating reasons. A premade one that I bought some time ago had in the instructions not to lubricate. Never gave me a problem.


beerchug
Re: clutch [Re: johnpl] #773521
05/13/19 12:42 am
05/13/19 12:42 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,757
Owego, NY, USA
Mark Z Offline
BritBike Forum member
Mark Z  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,757
Owego, NY, USA
I think you can still get un-lined cables. Good question for our stockists, any have their ears on?


Mark Z

'65(lower)/'66(upper, wheels, front end, controls)/'67(seat, exhaust, fuel tank, headlamp)/'70(frame) A65 Bitsa.

Moderated by  Alan_nc 

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