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Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: Magnetoman] #766339
02/24/19 10:11 pm
02/24/19 10:11 pm
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England
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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England
Originally Posted by Magnetoman
There are certain motorcycle restoration tasks where only precision grinding will do.

Ain't that the truth. Having said that I am very much enjoying having a lathe that isn't worn now that I have one that has had a full regrind which incidentally is the perfect example of needing a grinder to carry out really precision work.

Today was spent house hunting so no wasting time on old bikes. I did have a bit of time tidying up when we got home and gathered up the various bespoke "tools" that I have made so far and put them in one place.

[Linked Image]

As an aside, although connected to the gearbox rebuild (pun intended) I picked up a clutch last week. It cost about the same as the AMC clutches that I have seen. Hopefully it will fit inside the chaincase. Time will tell.

[Linked Image]

John

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Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #766539
02/26/19 7:52 pm
02/26/19 7:52 pm
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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In rebuilding my gearbox I note that there is too much play in the kickstart shaft bushes.

I have bought one new one for the outer case but the inner case bush is out of stock with the usual suppliers.

No problem I will make one. I have removed the old bush and spark tested it and it seems to be iron rather than steel.

My question is does it matter so much is this bush is made of steel?

I am aware of the self lubricating properties of cast iron but given that this bush is immersed in oil and also the fact that the wear on it will be minimal, (ie.only a part of a turn every time the bike is started and in between nothing) then is iron really needed? Or would steel be OK. I only ask as I dont have any iron in stock of the right size. If its essential I could buy some but what do you think?

Also, does anyone know what the recommended clearance is on these bushings? Again I don't think its critical given the application and environment but if there is a recommendation i would like to use that as a starting point.

[Linked Image]
Thanks


John

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #766860
03/01/19 8:50 pm
03/01/19 8:50 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 5,242
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Magnetoman Online content

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Originally Posted by George Kaplan
(Note to self, i really need to get a surface grinder although I need a bigger workshop first.)
All this talk of surface grinders, and limited workshop space, made me think a bit about the issue. Tasks where I'd like to have a surface grinder would be for small things like making a shim from hardened steel. Offhand, I can't think of needing a surface grinder for anything larger than a few square inches. So, having given this a little thought (perhaps, too little thought...) I bought a Chinese-made 5"x3-3/4" magnetic chuck for remarkably little money ($89) compared with the price of an actual surface grinder.

As the photograph shows, the chuck sits on the ways of my lathe where I can mount my toolpost grinder and reach the entire surface of the chuck. The clamps supplied with the chuck happen to grip the ways perfectly, and the Left-Right tilt of the surface with respect to the cross-slide is 0.0005", and In-Out is 0.0055". This means it will be trivial to shim one end to achieve flatness of 0.0005" over the entire area (equivalent to better than 0.0002" over a 1"-dia. shim), and only a tiny bit of extra care to achieve even better flatness than that if desired.

As far as I can tell, I now have a cheap, easy, accurate, and space-preserving solution to most, if not all, of my surface grinding needs. It's something you might want to consider.

Attached Files MagneticChuck.jpg
Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: Magnetoman] #766877
03/01/19 11:12 pm
03/01/19 11:12 pm
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Posts: 206
England
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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England
Originally Posted by Magnetoman
As far as I can tell, I now have a cheap, easy, accurate, and space-preserving solution to most, if not all, of my surface grinding needs. It's something you might want to consider.


Thanks for that MM, thats a pretty neat idea and like you most of what I would need one for is small stuff. I will have a think how I could do it on my lathe and look at the chucks available.

I am still wondering about how much it really matters to use cast iron or steel for the kick start bushes but its academic anyway as some 40mm cast iron was delivered today.

That will all have to wait a little while longer though as I am off here tomorrow:

https://www.dee-atkinson-harrison.c...rday-02-mar-2019&p=1&per_page=36

Although I am not intending to bid on the GS.

John

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #766950
03/02/19 6:40 pm
03/02/19 6:40 pm
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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I have a 1958 frame that I am fitting an earlier engine into. So far I have been using a set of empty 1953 crank cases to align everything. So far so good.

Earlier today I decided to see how things are with a complete engine fitted but have found that the bottom front engine mount changed from 5/16" to 3/8" in 1954.

For some reason my 1953 empty cases had this front mount bored out to 3/8" but my complete engine seems to be an unmolested pre-1954 engine with a 5/16" hole. Obviously the frame mounts are 3/8"

I cant be the first to fit an earlier engine into a later frame so what do folks usually do? I have 2 choices:

1. Bore out the engine mount to 3/8" and use a 3/8" stud

2. Make two top hat bushes to reduce the frame mountings to 5/16"

Which of the above would you do or would you do something else? (getting a later engine is not an option)

John.

P.S. At least this narrows down the date of my engine with the unusual number.


[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #766955
03/02/19 7:28 pm
03/02/19 7:28 pm
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England
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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Having had a little while to think about it, bushes would be too thin I think so I am pretty sure I will just make the hole in the engine cases larger.

John

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #767053
03/03/19 8:23 pm
03/03/19 8:23 pm
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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I have managed to make some progress this week.

I bored the bottom engine mount out to 3/8" and fitted the complete engine. As expected getting everything in line needs more than two hands so I made a podger which helped a lot.

[Linked Image]


Once the engine was in the frame I realised that I need to swap two rocker studs for the correct ones to hold the head steady. I had a look in the parts with the other engine but I only have one so I will get another one next week.

[Linked Image]

I ordered some cast iron and some bronze about a week ago to make some gearbox bushes that are not available off the shelf but the bronze hasn't arrived yet so I have put the empty gearbox case in place for now until I can finish the gearbox rebuild.

Once that was done I had a ponder about the primary drive. I have an earlier steel primary case and a later alloy case too with a spare inner alloy case. The steel case fits the earlier engine fine and given that the engine that I have has the short drive side axle I will use the steel case. However If I ever re-build the engine I might fit a longer axle and fit the alloy case and an alternator. If I do that i will have to modify one of the inner cases to fit the earlier engine.

[Linked Image]

I need to work out what parts I need to buy or make to get the primary case to fit at the clutch end. Also I cant work out what I need to make the back of the case oil tight against the gearbox. I will need to study the earlier parts lists.

The engine that I have has the mag drive on the inlet side so i will need to swap the pinions over to put the mag drive on the exhaust side.


[Linked Image]

On the subject of magnetos I now have a front mag platform. I am a bit stumped as to how the bolts to hold the mag can be accessed once the magneto is in place and I cant work out how one of them will fit at all as it seems to close to the engine mount.

[Linked Image]

Now that the engine is in the frame I am reminded that i still haven't figured out the engine number. I don't expect anyone has any new ideas on that number but has anyone got any ideas about this "P"? (Maybe the previous owner was a Bob Holness fan?)

[Linked Image]

As of today here is as far as I have got.

[Linked Image][/url]

John

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #767057
03/03/19 8:59 pm
03/03/19 8:59 pm
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,866
New Jersey USA
Tridentman Online content

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It has been many a long year since I heard the term "podger".

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: Tridentman] #767072
03/03/19 10:30 pm
03/03/19 10:30 pm
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Tridentman
It has been many a long year since I heard the term "podger".


I guess its a British term. Having worked around construction in a former life I find that its the perfect word for a tool like this.

John

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #767392
03/06/19 8:10 pm
03/06/19 8:10 pm
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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I knew that I was missing the engine shock absorber nut and that I needed a new spring, both of which were ordered on Monday and turned up on Tuesday.

I already had the shock absorber cap (part number 000831) so I didn't order one.

However now that I have the parts together I realise that the part that I have that I thought was a cap isn't correct. I could order a new one easily enough but it would be a simple part to make.

This is a long shot but does anyone know the dimensions? I can figure out the diameters based on the ID and OD of the spring but I could use some help with the other dimensions which, amongst other things, will determine the spring pre-load.

Any help that folks can offer would be much appreciated.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

John

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #767782
03/10/19 8:43 pm
03/10/19 8:43 pm
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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Some more progress was made this week.

Thanks to someone on the owners club forum I got most of the dimensions for the shock absorber cap. After making that I made the cast iron and bronze bushes that I couldn't buy and got the gearbox finished. With that finished I can now accurately measure how the engine sprocket and gearbox shafts line up. This means I can now order the correct clutch centre from NEB (they do different ones with different offsets) and sort the clutch out.

Then I can think about fuel and sparks in more detail.

I left the "base" of the shock cap quite thick and I am not sure if I should make it a bit thinner so that the nut screws on a bit further.

I also took delivery of a Lucas SR1 last week. I do have a Lucas N1 which I could have used but have decided upon an SR1 based on several recommendations. Here are a few pictures from today,

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

John

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #767788
03/10/19 9:43 pm
03/10/19 9:43 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 5,242
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content

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Originally Posted by George Kaplan
I left the "base" of the shock cap quite thick and I am not sure if I should make it a bit thinner so that the nut screws on a bit further.
Something doesn't seem quite right with the shock assembly. It's difficult to believe you made the cap so thick that ~5 threads show on the nut, rather than the end of the crank flush with it, or even a few threads of the crank protruding. I wonder if the spring is the correct one for your bike.

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: Magnetoman] #767791
03/10/19 10:20 pm
03/10/19 10:20 pm
Joined: Oct 2017
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Magnetoman
I wonder if the spring is the correct one for your bike.


The spring should be correct and anyway it is not the defining factor. At least it is not the defining factor if the dimensions for the cap that I got from the owners club forum are correct.

I am told (by someone on the owners club) that there are two types of cap available, one turned from solid and one made from a pressing. The reproduction ones available now are all pressed ones although I have been told that the turned from solid ones are better.

The size of the hole in the cap that I have been given is big enough to go over the threads but not big enough to go over the splines and so the cap rests against the shoulder created by the end of the splines. I am not sure if this is correct. The nut is thicker than a standard nut (see the picture in the last post) and I am sure it needs to go right on and this has been confirmed by others. To go right on there are two things that I might need to do, possibly both. I could make the base of the cap thinner and/or make the hole bigger so the cap slides over the splines.

Reproduction caps are cheap so the next time I place a parts order i might just buy one and either use that one or adjust my homemade one accordingly.

The main purpose of making a cap now was so that I could determine the alignment of the gearbox and engine sprocket. That has been achieved so I will call NEB in the morning and order the parts that i need to make the NEB clutch work with the AMC gearbox.

I will also call Allens Performance and order a Mikuni carb which means that in a few days time I should have a few more pieces to bolt on.

John


Last edited by George Kaplan; 03/10/19 10:22 pm.
Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #767803
03/11/19 1:36 am
03/11/19 1:36 am
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Magnetoman Online content

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Originally Posted by George Kaplan
The spring should be correct and anyway it is not the defining factor.
My 1965 G80 has a lot in common with your bike (and some that's not in common), but I've never had to have it apart so I'm unfamiliar with its internals (that will change when I find the strength of will to find why it seized last spring). My G15/45 also has a lot in common, but it came to me years ago in a dozen boxes that I hope I've managed to keep separate from the dozen boxes of a G12 I bought as a donor bike, also years ago. So, you'll do well to take any suggestions I make with a grain of salt.

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #767871
03/11/19 10:01 pm
03/11/19 10:01 pm
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England
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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My intentions by the end of today was to have ordered some of the items that i need to move forward but I didn't get as far as I had hoped.

First I called NEB to order clutch parts, however the person that I apparently needed to speak to is on holiday this week so I need to call back next week when he is back. So clutch progress is stalled for one week.

Then I called Allens Performance to order a carb but the guy needed some inlet manifold details to ensure I got the correct parts even though the G3 and G80 are on the specific list of kits that they sell. I was at work so had to wait until I got home to check the details. I will order a carb tomorrow.

I also had an intention to order some other bits including an engine sprocket but didn't get chance to look at gearing options yesterday evening so this will have to wait until tomorrow too.

Even though this thread is titled Matchless G3, engine wise its a G80. For the earlier long stroke engines the bottom ends are essentially the same bar some minor details so my 350 bottom end with 500 top end means i have a G80 motor and given the G3 and G80 are essentially the same I am actually building a G80 except in name.

I have a pre-alternator engine mated to an NEB clutch mated to an AMC gearbox so its not a standard configuration.

The 500cc Burman equipped bikes have a final drive ratio of 5:1 in fourth gear. This is with an engine sprocket of 21t, clutch of 40t, gearbox of 16t and rear hub of 42t.

The 500cc AMC equipped bikes have a final drive ratio of 5.01:1 in fourth gear. This is with an engine sprocket of 22t, clutch of 42t, gearbox of 16t and rear hub of 42t.

Therefore I am looking for a final ratio of about 5:1. However I have a 44t clutch sprocket and, for now at least, a 42t rear hub. I have been playing about with various engine and gearbox sizes and the nearest is 4.94:1 using a 22t engine and a 17t gearbox.

So tomorrow I will try to order everything again and hopefully I will be successful this time.

John

Last edited by George Kaplan; 03/11/19 10:12 pm.
Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #768128
03/14/19 8:29 pm
03/14/19 8:29 pm
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 206
England
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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George Kaplan  Offline OP
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Joined: Oct 2017
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England
I made a little progress today, when I got in there were two parcels waiting for me, one contained 10m of chain and the other contained two sprockets and a shock absorber cap.

I first decided to remove the engine and sort out the head steady mountings, I had previously realised that they cant be swapped with the engine in the frame as the top tube is in the way.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Then I lined up all of the sprockets that I have just for the sake of comparison. On the bottom row at the right is a standard 350 engine sprocket, middle is a standard 500 engine sprocket and the left the 22t sprocket that I need for my NEB clutch (lets hope it all fits in the chain case)

Top row is a standard (but very hooked) gearbox sprocket and a new one with one extra tooth. The two new sprockets along with my clutch all keep the gearing close to a standard 500 gearing of 5:1

[Linked Image]

Finally it is now apparent why my cap wasn't quite right. The one I made is too deep. I have put the replacement pattern one on for now but I am tempted to make another one because I am not happy that the flange on the pattern one is significantly smaller than the spring diameter. However that will have to wait for another day.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

John

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #768284
03/16/19 9:20 pm
03/16/19 9:20 pm
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 206
England
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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I managed a bit more progress today after taking care of some other stuff this morning.

I made another cap, this time with correct dimensions. I left the base 0.140" thick, the base of the pattern one is 0.090" so I will take another 0.50" off to get the nut fully on.

[Linked Image]

I swapped the cams around to enable me to fit the front facing timing case. I need to check if the cams are the same or not. I have a press so could swap the shafts over if need be. I think I have seen something on the owners club site about it so will look into it.

[Linked Image]

I put the mag platform into place to see how the SR1 lined up and it seems that this platform is not correct. I think I might have to make one. I had a look at the metal in my stores and everything I have is either too thick or too thin so I will pick some up next week of the right thickness.

[Linked Image]

Then I offered the exhaust up to the head. The head has a layer of what looks like silicone sealer inside where the exhaust fits. Is that what folks usually do to seal it? Again I am sure I have seen something on the owners club so I need to have a look.

[Linked Image]

I also had a think about cleaning out the tanks. What I usually do is put some old ball bearings and nuts inside along with some paraffin and then wrap them in cardboard and wedge them in my cement mixer and leave it spinning for an hour or two. However I have lent the mixer to my Nephew and it is currently 100 miles away so I need to do something else. This is what I decided on for the oil tank, the mill has a vfd so I can get it to run as slow as I need it to. I still need to work out what to do with the petrol tank.

[Linked Image]

John

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #768288
03/16/19 10:41 pm
03/16/19 10:41 pm
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,020
Farnham, Surrey, UK
gunner Online content
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Sealing the exhaust joint with Silicone is something I've been doing for a few years and it works well. I normally use a high temp silicone such as Loctite 5990 copper which you can get in Halfords, others have reported that normal Silicone sealer works just as well, including bath sealer.

Regarding the fuel tank, I would try an initial clean out with hot soapy water and/or degreaser rinsing few times, add some nuts and bolts to help remove loose rust. Next try filling it with a citric acid solution (approx 250g per gallon) and leaving for a few days.The citric acid should dissolve any rust and wont hurt the paint. Flush out the tank and rinse with hot water, next I would rinse the tank internally with phosphoric acid to form a phosphate layer which will help prevent further rust.


1968 A65 Firebird
1967 B44 Shooting Star
1972 Norton Commando
Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: gunner] #768299
03/16/19 11:52 pm
03/16/19 11:52 pm
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Posts: 5,242
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content

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Originally Posted by gunner
The citric acid should dissolve any rust
I have just one word to say to you: molasses. Or, as you know it in the UK, treacle.

Over the years my 5-gal. derusting bucket had slowly lost half its contents so a month ago when I happened to be passing by a feed store I stopped to see if they carried molasses. It's used as a feed supplement for horses and cattle so this wasn't as silly as it might sound. It turned out they don't normally carry it, but someone had special ordered a batch and hadn't picked it up. For about what 5 pints would cost at the grocery store I left there with 5 gal. For those of you who live in metric countries, that's a price difference of ~40x.

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: Magnetoman] #768334
03/17/19 9:56 am
03/17/19 9:56 am
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 206
England
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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Originally Posted by gunner
I normally use a high temp silicone such as Loctite 5990 copper which you can get in Halfords,

Thanks for the recommendation gunner. The stuff that is used for wood burning stoves is also an option as its rated for high temperatures.
Originally Posted by gunner
Regarding the fuel tank, I would try an initial clean out with hot soapy water and/or degreaser rinsing few times, add some nuts and bolts to help remove loose rust. Next try filling it with a citric acid solution (approx 250g per gallon) and leaving for a few days.The citric acid should dissolve any rust and wont hurt the paint. Flush out the tank and rinse with hot water, next I would rinse the tank internally with phosphoric acid to form a phosphate layer which will help prevent further rust.

My initial problem is the initial clean. (pun intended) As I said I usually put it in my mixer, I dont think my arms would be up to an hour of manually rattling a petrol tank about to get the loose rust and crud out. The oil tank is not so bad as it seems to be mainly old oil and anyway I have sorted out a tumbler for that one.

Acid is great for rust removal, not just citric but vinegar or almost any acid will do. I have a POR15 "Prep and Ready" which came with the kit I bought for a previous tank that needed sealing and I am pretty sure it is mostly phosphoric acid.
Originally Posted by Magnetoman
I have just one word to say to you: molasses. Or, as you know it in the UK, treacle.

Actually, in agricultural stores it is called molasses over here too.

As I am sure you will know, the chemistry relating to molasses rust removal involves acid so basically they are all similar techniques.
Originally Posted by Magnetoman
I happened to be passing by a feed store I stopped to see if they carried molasses.

You have reminded me that about 6 months ago I asked Mrs Kaplan to pick up some molasses when she went to the feed store so I could try it out. I had forgotten about it until now. I will mix a bucket full up and put something rusty in it to see how it goes. One problem I have is the ambient temperature in the UK at the moment. It is significantly less warm than the South West USA so it might take a lot longer to work. Obviously the bucket is not coming into the house for reasons discussed previously on another thread.

John

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #768345
03/17/19 2:45 pm
03/17/19 2:45 pm
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 206
England
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George Kaplan Offline OP
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England
Post Script: I found it, Mrs Kaplan had "hidden" it and blamed me when I asked her where it was. (because apparently it was my fault that she couldn't remember where she put)

[Linked Image]

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #768348
03/17/19 3:20 pm
03/17/19 3:20 pm
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 549
Cork Ireland
C
chaterlea25 Online content
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Cork Ireland
Hi GK
Looking at the magneto I'm wondering if the AJS/Matchless use a 35mm shaft height mag? "M" type
and yours is a 45mm "K" type ??

John

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: chaterlea25] #768364
03/17/19 7:39 pm
03/17/19 7:39 pm
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 206
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George Kaplan Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
George Kaplan  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 206
England
Originally Posted by chaterlea25
Hi GK
Looking at the magneto I'm wondering if the AJS/Matchless use a 35mm shaft height mag? "M" type
and yours is a 45mm "K" type ??

John


Hi chaterlea, you are right, the AMC bikes do use a 35mm magneto height. My SR1 is 35mm.

[Linked Image]

I also have an N1 which has a similar shaft height which I have also offered up and it also has the same issue.

[Linked Image]

The issue is that I acquired a magneto platform that I thought was the right one but it seems not. The height is OK but it leaves the magneto short of the timing case. Even if I moved the holes over as far as possible it would still be too short. I could look for another one but it might be quicker to make one. I am thinking about making one similar to the rear mounted platform with a cantilevered section on the timing side. That way I can get the platform close to the case and then put the holes where I want them.

I still need to get an ATD unit so it isn't holding things up yet although it is one job that I thought was taken care of but obviously isnt now.

John

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #768366
03/17/19 8:06 pm
03/17/19 8:06 pm
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 206
England
G
George Kaplan Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
George Kaplan  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
G

Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 206
England

Today I had another look at the nut on the shock cap and noted an un-threaded portion at the inboard end. It was a simple matter to reduce it a bit to get it on the last couple of threads.

[Linked Image]

I cleaned the oil tank inside and out. Once the crud was off I noted that the back had been epoxied up in the past. I will leave it for now but will deal with it properly at a later date. Inside the tank is pretty good.

[Linked Image]

I had a look at the fuel tank and it looks a bit scabby but seems sound. The threads on the mounts don't seem right. It came with one BSF bolt which I am not certain is right as it only screws into one mounting. I will order a set of bolts and run a tap with the right thread through.

John

Re: 1958 Matchless G3 [Re: George Kaplan] #768368
03/17/19 8:28 pm
03/17/19 8:28 pm
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 206
England
G
George Kaplan Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
George Kaplan  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
G

Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 206
England
Picking up on the rust removal comments above you will note I have 5 litres (1.3 US gallons) of molasses. To try it out I needed something rusty. I had in mind the iron G3 cylinder and the crank from the '53 bottom end. I dug them out and it seems that the cylinder bore is rusty but the rest of it is mostly just dirty. So the crank it is then.

[Linked Image]

When I dismantled the bottom end it looked like at some time in the past it had been left outside because as well as rust there were leaves inside.

The flywheels had a decent coating of rust and crud so I spent less than a minute scraping the worst off

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

You can see in the above two pictures where someone (not me) has sawn the end off the timing side axle. Why would you do that? If the nut was stuck then just destroy the nut if you have to.

Anyway, now it sits in a bucket of molasses solution. I will check it in a week or so and see how it is doing.

[Linked Image]


John

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