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Rear Break Light not going on.. I think #761713
01/06/19 5:31 am
01/06/19 5:31 am
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 27
Monterey
J
Juan Cisneros Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
Juan Cisneros  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
J

Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 27
Monterey
So. my tail light is on, but I dont know if its bright as if the brake is on. I replaced the brake light switch because the old one was torn off from the top. But i installed the new one,and my brake light doesnt "brake" (get brighter). AM I missing something? I have a 1971 Triumph Tiger. Even when I press front brake lever it doesnt go on. Again, I forget how bright it gets to normal light so thats why im saying I dont know if its always on braking brightness or not. I hope Im making sense. smile.

The bolt that presses down that bushing, should it be adjusted so it pushes it down further?

Ay help would be greatly appreciated as always.

Juan


71' Tiger
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Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: Juan Cisneros] #761722
01/06/19 12:20 pm
01/06/19 12:20 pm
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 205
Quebec Canada
H
Hermit Offline

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Hermit  Offline

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H

Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 205
Quebec Canada
Juan, it sounds as if the spring that operates the rear brake switch might be too tight and it's holding the switch in the "on" position. Slacked the fastener holding the switch lever to the brake rod until the spring is loose, then operate the switch by hand to see if the brake light turns on and off.


Bruce Miller
aka The Hermit
The Bonnie Ref: https://www.hermit.cc/tmc/om/manual.htm
Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: Juan Cisneros] #761723
01/06/19 1:37 pm
01/06/19 1:37 pm
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,106
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
B
btour Offline
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btour  Offline
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B

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,106
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
Make sure it is not that the front brake switch is on. I have a replacement front brake cable with the switch in line in it. That switch will not shut down. And it is sealed. Pull the connector spades to it and see what happens then.

I have not idea what I am going to do with my problem, if they decide to check it at inspection. Cheat and sneakily use the rear brake when I pull the lever is all I can think of.

So far, they have been so impressed with my bike they have not checked.


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: Juan Cisneros] #761724
01/06/19 1:52 pm
01/06/19 1:52 pm
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 9,926
Scotland
kommando Online content
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kommando  Online Content
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 9,926
Scotland
If you take the lens off you can look closely at the bulb and see the 2 filaments, wear some sunglasses and operate, but then you can see which filaments are lighting and when.

Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: Juan Cisneros] #761742
01/06/19 4:01 pm
01/06/19 4:01 pm
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 469
Kent, UK
N
Nick_Smith Offline
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Nick_Smith  Offline
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N

Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 469
Kent, UK
Do you have the wires to the bulb correct? The brake light filament is far brighter than the tail light one - if the brake light filament is on already (as the rear light, instead of the tail light filament), adding the dimmer filament by operating the brake doesn't make an obvious difference.


"1967 TR6R"
Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: Juan Cisneros] #761799
01/07/19 4:49 am
01/07/19 4:49 am
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 674
Pleasant Hill, California USA
T
TR7RVMan Offline
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TR7RVMan  Offline
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T

Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 674
Pleasant Hill, California USA
Hi Jaun, I would check bulb first. The correct bulb is a 21/5w 12v. At O'reilly's it would be from a Volkswagon or Mercedes. However the American car equivalent will still work & shine decently. Straight across guide pins on sides, one side is a little farther from bottom though, 2 contacts on bottom. Meaning looking at bottom of bulb the pins will look straight across, not offset. Also you'll see the 2 contacts on bottom itself.

The correct bulb is Sylvania 7528, also sometimes called a 1034. The one that will work but not correct is 1157. The difference is the 1157 is brighter on both tail lamp & stop lamp. It uses more electricity which can result in lower charging rate in city riding. Oreilly's by my house stocks both of these.

Do you know how to test bulb with ohm meter if you have one, or use jumper wires if you have some? I'd get a new bulb to have on hand in any case.

If you have multi meter or test light you can test system even if the bulb is burned out, but that's another subject.

Turn key on. Head light off. The tail light should be nothing. Turn on head light, the tail light should be on also.

Remember with head lamp off, key on you should get nothing. If you have tail light with head lamp off that is not right. It could be the brake light is stuck on.

Just like you think the stop lamp should be about twice as bright as tail lamp. But you don't have a base line to know what 1/2 bright of the tail light is, I get that.

Pull wires off stop lamp switch at brake pedal. Does it change anything?

Front brake cable originally would have stop lamp switch also. It looks like a black cylinder in the cable with 2 wires going to it. Pull those wires off. Does it change anything?

With wires pulled off both switches you should have no brake light at all.

But tail lamp should still work normally on/off with head light switch. If tail lamp doesn't work as it should, that's a problem to fix. Supposing it's ok, we'll move on.

Now touch rear pedal stop switch wires together making sure the metal conductors are actually touching. The stop light should come on. Wires apart should go back off. Leave these wires off for now.

Do same test with front brake switch wires. Touching together on, apart off.

Now hook up front wires to switch. Stop light should still be off. Come on when pulling lever, off releasing lever. If good leave it connected. If bad, disconnect wires for now.

Move to rear brake switch. Hook up wires. Again lamp should stay off. Press brake pedal, should come on. Now you've tested both switches.

Your stop light switch for brake pedal is off when pedal is pushing plunger inwards... When you press on pedal the plunger (with the boot on it) comes out & internal contacts come together turning on stop bulb.

When you adjust the plunger bolt on pedal, remember the stop lamp switch is not the pedal stop. The pedal doesn't really have a stop, it simply hits the left foot rest & that ends up being the stop. Adjust the bolt so the plunger is mostly up. When you press pedal 1/2" or so light should come on.

The rear switch was fairly reliable so long as the pedal didn't over push the plunger, which damaged switch & can break the mounting. So the adjustment of the plunger bolt on pedal is important. Also sometimes the foot rest rubber is the stop which is fine. But sometimes the pedal can slip past rubber & metal of foot rest becomes the new stop, which can over push the switch.

The front brake cable switch can be (is) temperamental & the front brake adjustment can effect the switch operation as well. Many owners ended up disconnecting the wires & taped each end up separately, then taped the wires back out of the way which meant no more front brake lamp activation. Others used cable without switch & taped wires back the same. Triumph issued a service bulletin on taking switch apart & bending contacts to help remedy the problem, but that is another story for later only if you need it.

Don


1973 Tiger 750
Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: Juan Cisneros] #761815
01/07/19 1:36 pm
01/07/19 1:36 pm
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,106
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
B
btour Offline
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btour  Offline
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B

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,106
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
Hi Don,

I am interested in that story now. I have a replacement front cable though. I have found no way to take it apart. The switch that is.

Last edited by btour; 01/08/19 12:38 am.

Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: Juan Cisneros] #761839
01/07/19 8:09 pm
01/07/19 8:09 pm
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,919
Bishop, Calif.
D
desco Offline
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desco  Offline
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D

Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,919
Bishop, Calif.
I had a heavier front cable made with no switch. Noticeable improvement in braking. For a long time Triumph had NO front brake switch. No cop in his right mind is going to know which year they changed. If he does, thank him for his superiour knowedge and promise to have it corrected.


1968 T120R
1972 T120RV
Any advice given is without a warranty expressed or implied.
Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: TR7RVMan] #761867
01/08/19 12:50 am
01/08/19 12:50 am
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 27
Monterey
J
Juan Cisneros Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
Juan Cisneros  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
J

Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 27
Monterey
Originally Posted by TR7RVMan
Hi Jaun, I would check bulb first. The correct bulb is a 21/5w 12v. At O'reilly's it would be from a Volkswagon or Mercedes. However the American car equivalent will still work & shine decently. Straight across guide pins on sides, one side is a little farther from bottom though, 2 contacts on bottom. Meaning looking at bottom of bulb the pins will look straight across, not offset. Also you'll see the 2 contacts on bottom itself.

The correct bulb is Sylvania 7528, also sometimes called a 1034. The one that will work but not correct is 1157. The difference is the 1157 is brighter on both tail lamp & stop lamp. It uses more electricity which can result in lower charging rate in city riding. Oreilly's by my house stocks both of these.

Do you know how to test bulb with ohm meter if you have one, or use jumper wires if you have some? I'd get a new bulb to have on hand in any case.

If you have multi meter or test light you can test system even if the bulb is burned out, but that's another subject.

Turn key on. Head light off. The tail light should be nothing. Turn on head light, the tail light should be on also.

Remember with head lamp off, key on you should get nothing. If you have tail light with head lamp off that is not right. It could be the brake light is stuck on.

Just like you think the stop lamp should be about twice as bright as tail lamp. But you don't have a base line to know what 1/2 bright of the tail light is, I get that.

Pull wires off stop lamp switch at brake pedal. Does it change anything?

Front brake cable originally would have stop lamp switch also. It looks like a black cylinder in the cable with 2 wires going to it. Pull those wires off. Does it change anything?

With wires pulled off both switches you should have no brake light at all.

But tail lamp should still work normally on/off with head light switch. If tail lamp doesn't work as it should, that's a problem to fix. Supposing it's ok, we'll move on.

Now touch rear pedal stop switch wires together making sure the metal conductors are actually touching. The stop light should come on. Wires apart should go back off. Leave these wires off for now.

Do same test with front brake switch wires. Touching together on, apart off.

Now hook up front wires to switch. Stop light should still be off. Come on when pulling lever, off releasing lever. If good leave it connected. If bad, disconnect wires for now.

Move to rear brake switch. Hook up wires. Again lamp should stay off. Press brake pedal, should come on. Now you've tested both switches.

Your stop light switch for brake pedal is off when pedal is pushing plunger inwards... When you press on pedal the plunger (with the boot on it) comes out & internal contacts come together turning on stop bulb.

When you adjust the plunger bolt on pedal, remember the stop lamp switch is not the pedal stop. The pedal doesn't really have a stop, it simply hits the left foot rest & that ends up being the stop. Adjust the bolt so the plunger is mostly up. When you press pedal 1/2" or so light should come on.

The rear switch was fairly reliable so long as the pedal didn't over push the plunger, which damaged switch & can break the mounting. So the adjustment of the plunger bolt on pedal is important. Also sometimes the foot rest rubber is the stop which is fine. But sometimes the pedal can slip past rubber & metal of foot rest becomes the new stop, which can over push the switch.

The front brake cable switch can be (is) temperamental & the front brake adjustment can effect the switch operation as well. Many owners ended up disconnecting the wires & taped each end up separately, then taped the wires back out of the way which meant no more front brake lamp activation. Others used cable without switch & taped wires back the same. Triumph issued a service bulletin on taking switch apart & bending contacts to help remedy the problem, but that is another story for later only if you need it.

Don


A very embarassing confession. First, thanks for the responses. I really appreciate this form
Bottom line, it was my bulb. The fact that my bulb was on threw me off. But yes, the bottom fillament was off and not attached to naything. Thank you again!


71' Tiger
Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: Juan Cisneros] #762024
01/09/19 5:11 am
01/09/19 5:11 am
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 674
Pleasant Hill, California USA
T
TR7RVMan Offline
BritBike Forum member
TR7RVMan  Offline
BritBike Forum member
T

Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 674
Pleasant Hill, California USA
Hi Juan, Good you got it working! What bulb did you end up getting?
Don


1973 Tiger 750
Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: Juan Cisneros] #762025
01/09/19 5:15 am
01/09/19 5:15 am
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 674
Pleasant Hill, California USA
T
TR7RVMan Offline
BritBike Forum member
TR7RVMan  Offline
BritBike Forum member
T

Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 674
Pleasant Hill, California USA
Hi Btour, I don't have cable in my possession at the moment. I hope to get to John's Thursday for a ride & will attempt to photo cable. Depends on weather. Been rainy, but supposed to stop for Thursday. I also now have the correct bulletin for your type cable/switch. I'll email you photos of both when I get them. As I recall there are 2 release tabs on switch, but I haven't looked in a while so I'll get back to you.
Don


1973 Tiger 750
Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: Juan Cisneros] #762044
01/09/19 2:30 pm
01/09/19 2:30 pm
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,106
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
B
btour Offline
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btour  Offline
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B

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,106
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
Thanks Don. I hope it is so, but I am not hopeful because when I asked, one that would work was said, "they don't give those away" meaning they are really expensive. The replacement one I did work for awhile, but then it would come on and off sending morse code of its own. I have tried to think of a work around for quite some time.

It is a minor issue, but it would be nice to have it working.


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: Juan Cisneros] #762101
01/09/19 9:02 pm
01/09/19 9:02 pm
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,566
Back on the mainland!
JubeePrince Offline

Born To Run
JubeePrince  Offline

Born To Run

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,566
Back on the mainland!
Originally Posted by Juan Cisneros

A very embarassing confession.


Nothing to be embarrassed about! Just think...when someone a year or two from now posts the same problem you had, you'll have THE solution for them! grin

Cheers,

Steve


'77 T140J
"Vintage Bike". What's in your garage?

"The paying customer is always right."

Fitting round pegs into square holes since 1961...
Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: Juan Cisneros] #762245
01/11/19 12:27 pm
01/11/19 12:27 pm
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,106
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
B
btour Offline
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btour  Offline
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B

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,106
Massachusetts, U.S.A.
Hi Don,

Thanks for the bulletin and picture. I will take a look. I have the old one still and remember it looked like that. I never did know how to fix it. I don't think the new one comes apart. One of the best things about old Triumphs was that switches were fixable. Things came apart.

New stuff does not. In fact, In the UK there is legislation to that effect. Things must be fixable again. Toasters, etc. Currently, they just glue the stuff together and if something does not work, you toss it. Sound familiar? The manufacturers are of course screaming, you will put us out of business. We can't afford to make it come apart! Evil government. Sound familiar?

The push for this comes not so much from dollars as the fact we are swimming in our own waste. Because a diode or microswitch is gone, the entire thing has to be tossed in a landfill. I know. I work in recycling.. Guy brings in a huge plasma TV because there is a black bar across the screen. Fortunately the back comes off. Unsnap the side bar, and reconnect. Now I have a wonderful Plasma TV.

They don't want you to fix it. They want to sell you a new one.


Bob, Lifetime bike: '71 T120R, bought in '71 at Ken Heanes, England.
Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: TR7RVMan] #762263
01/11/19 3:33 pm
01/11/19 3:33 pm
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 27
Monterey
J
Juan Cisneros Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
Juan Cisneros  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
J

Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 27
Monterey
Originally Posted by TR7RVMan
Hi Juan, Good you got it working! What bulb did you end up getting?
Don

Hey Don,
I got the 7528 Sylvania bulb. Works great. Glad it was an easy fix. I did end up learning a lot about my wires smile


71' Tiger
Re: Rear Break Light not going on.. I think [Re: Juan Cisneros] #762337
01/12/19 2:31 am
01/12/19 2:31 am
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,919
Bishop, Calif.
D
desco Offline
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D

Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,919
Bishop, Calif.
If it's true that you learn
from your mistakes, then I have a PHD in Triumph mechanics.


1968 T120R
1972 T120RV
Any advice given is without a warranty expressed or implied.

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