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Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #756076
11/14/18 9:50 pm
11/14/18 9:50 pm
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 497
Cork Ireland
C
chaterlea25 Offline
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 497
Cork Ireland
Hi MM,
Quote
However, unlike the inlet tract, there never is a relative vacuum in the exhaust tract so grease applied to the top of the guide won't be sucked down it in the same way.


Not true, every time the exhaust valve closes the inertia of the exhaust gasses going down the pipe gives rise to a degree of vacuum in the port area
As if proof is needed, If the header pipe has an air leak at the head it will draw in air leading to banging in the exhaust as unburned fuel gets oxygen to ignite it especially as the throttle is closed
Most British bikes will suck oil down the exhaust guides if there is play between stem and guide even though the usual supply to the heads is only a bleed from the return supply, fed through restricting drilling's in the case of BSA.
A proportion of the lubricant applied externally to the exhaust valve should and must have made it down along the guide as it lasted for some time
before trouble was apparent

The Ariel exhaust valve clearance was closing up as the event progressed, and accelerated after the overheating event
The seat was well and truly battered by the exhaust valve flopping around in the worn guide
I did not think that we were going to achieve a valve seating at all using the Neway cutter, eventually settling on an uneven width seating
The best that could be achieved was a deeply pocketed seat
Cutting more material from the head to give a fresh seating will lessen the support area available when inevitably a seat insert will have to be fitted
unless you fit a larger diameter headed valve and get it to seat near the combustion chamber surface
A recessed exhaust seating will also lead to higher running temperatures as the exhaust gasses are forced through the narrowed passage from the
combustion area.

Do you remember looking at the JAP head from the SS100? it exhibited the same type of damage as the Ariel head!!!!
Leading me to believe the issue is not solely an Ariel issue

John

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Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #756100
11/15/18 12:52 am
11/15/18 12:52 am
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,838
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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Originally Posted by chaterlea25
Not true, every time the exhaust valve closes the inertia of the exhaust gasses going down the pipe gives rise to a degree of vacuum in the port area
Of course you're right. Thanks for catching this.

Originally Posted by chaterlea25
Do you remember looking at the JAP head from the SS100? it exhibited the same type of damage as the Ariel head!!!!
Leading me to believe the issue is not solely an Ariel issue
No, I didn't see it, but upon further reflection, and further measurements, my plan has changed again. Now, I need to get into the nitty gritty of valve seat replacement, which I've never done before.

As reference for what follows, the first photograph shows that, if anything, the face of the inlet valve sits a little proud of the surface of the head. This is after I cut the seat once myself, and previous owners must have done it at least once in the past.

The upper part of the second composite shows that the exhaust valve sits at least 1.5 mm below the surface, and the lower part shows it's more like 3 mm. In real units, that's 0.118" (~1/8").

The third photograph doesn't do justice to the amount of recession of the exhaust valve, but the circle in light green shows that a new seat with OD 2.007" would remove most traces of prior work on the seat. I'll come back to this figure in a moment. However, note that not all of the prior work is Concentric with the current location of the valve.

The green circle in the fourth photograph has an OD of 1.508", which is the measured value of the inlet to the exhaust port. The diameter of the inside of the face of the new G&S valve is 1.539"

The blue circle in the fifth photograph has an OD of 1.819", which would eliminate some traces of prior work but would leave a trench of varying width outside about half of the new seat.

Referring to the Kibblewhite listings of their hardest, powdered metal seats, they have one whose OD is 2.007" and ID is 1.562". Use of that seat would eliminate most of the traces of prior work (assuming the new guide ends up in exactly the same place as the current guide) but leave a band of width 0.011" on the valve unsupported. Their next smaller seat has OD 1.969" and ID 1.535", which would support the entire valve at the expense of leaving a bit more of the prior work in place. Going smaller still, they have a seat of OD 1.819" (ID 1.375", but that could be enlarged to 1.5" in the mill), which would fully support the valve but leave a trench.

OK, anyone who has replaced seats (this means YOU John Healy), how would you proceed? Also, although I haven't mentioned it (until now), filling in that trenched region with brazing rod or Ni before installing the guide and machining for a seat is possible. Is that a good or bad idea?

Attached Files RecessedValve01.jpgRecessedValve02.jpgRecessedValve03.jpgRecessedValve04.jpgRecessedValve05.jpg
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #756372
11/17/18 2:01 pm
11/17/18 2:01 pm
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 494
Dallas Texas
RPM Offline
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Dallas Texas
My thoughts for what there worth

We cut some seat material with the Neway cutters on the Cannonball. This had to be done in order to get seat cleaned up. Not perfect but it is what had to happen to get the bike going. Not all of this sinking of the valve is seat recession.
I never saw your bike smoke even after you removed the oil control ring. Maybe the ashless oil burns up in combustion and none exits the exhaust limiting the lubrication to exhaust valve. I think the Ariel will continue to wear valve guides unless you actually see smoke out the exhaust pipe when rolling off throttle. It needs more oil on the Cannonball than it ever did riding on UK roads in the 1930's. There was not a road in England where you could run 60 to 65 mph for two hours non stop. The longest straight away was maybe a few miles long.
Leave the oil control ring out and use Valvoline VR1 50wt. Smoking is good for you despite the rumors to the contrary.

We are thinking 5 Nortons next Cannonball. One seat may be available. Any brave souls out there?

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: RPM] #756382
11/17/18 3:39 pm
11/17/18 3:39 pm
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 822
Overland Missouri
O
old mule Offline
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Overland Missouri
It would do my old heart good to see a British bike win that race.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #756384
11/17/18 3:55 pm
11/17/18 3:55 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,838
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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Originally Posted by RPM
Not all of this sinking of the valve is seat recession.
Right. I didn't mean to imply it was, but it seems some of the drop in the valve height to its current below sea level value was due to recession.

Originally Posted by RPM
I never saw your bike smoke even after you removed the oil control ring. Maybe the ashless oil burns up in combustion and none exits the exhaust limiting the lubrication to exhaust valve. ... Leave the oil control ring out and use Valvoline VR1 50wt.
By the time we changed guides I was using a flow rate of ~1 drop/sec., giving a consumption of ~1 qt. / 250 miles. That's 3-4x the rate of 15-20 drops/min. Ariel suggested at the time. Any higher rate caused a backup in the sight glass. Also, oil was dripping from both breather tubes at the stops so even if the flow could had been increased it just would have come out the breathers even faster rather than sneak past the rings.

I assume the lack of smoke was a result of the "ashless" nature of the Shell. Although I'm not convinced oil on the bottom 15% of the stems does anything to retard the wear of the guides, I'm also not convinced it doesn't. Also, perhaps the additives that give Shell its ashless-ness have an effect on its lubricating qualities after passing through the hot exhaust gasses. Anyway, not swayed (too much) by the fact I have a lifetime supply of Valvoline VR1 50W sitting in my garage (from the stock my teammate didn't use), I plan to switch to it.

Originally Posted by RPM
One seat may be available.
Says the crack dealer within earshot of a recovering addict.

p.s.
Originally Posted by old mule
It would do my old heart good to see a British bike win that race.
The Norton and Triumph teams showed it's possible for British singles to make the distance without loss of points, but this year the winning bike was a 1914 Harley single so to have won would have required another 1914 bike with an older rider (to break the tie), or one from 1913 or earlier. Skimming the list, the highest a pre-'14 single placed was 53rd with a loss of 96 miles.

Last edited by Magnetoman; 11/17/18 4:16 pm. Reason: p.s.
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: old mule] #756556
11/19/18 2:20 pm
11/19/18 2:20 pm
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 494
Dallas Texas
RPM Offline
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Dallas Texas
Originally Posted by old mule
It would do my old heart good to see a British bike win that race.


I lie awake at night thinking about ways to be better prepared and where we are going to find the oldest single cylinder,single speed Norton in the world.
It can be done.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #756570
11/19/18 5:39 pm
11/19/18 5:39 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,838
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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Originally Posted by RPM
I lie awake at night thinking about ways to be better prepared ...
Not because I saw any flying pigs as we crossed the U.S., but because it's the sort of thing I do, every time I saw something in the parking lot at night that seemed like it could have been prevented by better preparation (e.g. a magneto being replaced) I made a note of it. I also made notes of my own failings (e.g. not having Loctited the central bolt of my magneto), as well as things that might have failed on the Ariel but didn't (e.g. I should have built and pre-jetted a spare carburetor).

The two breakdowns that cost me miles were quite minor and easily could have been prevented. The "breakdown" that didn't cost me miles (i.e. the worn guide) was major and only future testing will determine if I have a solution for it in the form of Ni-Resist, no oil ring, Valvoline and a Stellited rocker. Although not a breakdown, the messy grease leak from the gearbox also seems like it will be preventable with a sealed bearing although, again, future testing will be required.

No matter how well they are manufactured, motor vehicles, like electronics, follow a "bathtub curve" of failures. So, based on what I learned from the Cannonball experience, and had I been able to finish rebuilding the Ariel several months earlier, I would have put 1000 miles on the bike under simulated Cannonball conditions of 250+ miles/day and then torn the engine and gearbox down. That would have been sufficient to reveal both of the breakdown-causing issues I had, the oozing grease, and to cause enough wear of the guide (and seat) to know I had to find a solution to it.

The other side of the coin is being prepared to deal with problems that might arise even with more preparation. I had on my Ariel a 10 lb. toolkit that is the result of 15+ years of experience and observation at the Irish Rally. Basically, anything that can go wrong on an old motorcycle has gone wrong at this rally. I made notes of those problems and used what I saw (and personally experienced) to assemble and refine a toolkit that has dealt with nearly every eventuality faced by me, the group I normally ride with at the rally, and other stranded riders as well.

Whenever I found one tool that can do the job of two, I adopted it. Where a tool can be modified to take up less space and still do the job, I modified it. Where a spare part could have solved a problem I saw with someone else’s bike on the rally, I added it. The result is a kit that has successfully fixed a wide range of problems that otherwise would have ended the day’s ride for me or someone else.

Mirroring what I did at the Irish Rally to develop a portable toolkit, in order to "design" a mobile workshop I made multiple trips around the parking lot during the Cannonball photographing and noting how other teams were equipped (e.g. the details of Norton Team trailer), including noting what I didn't see anywhere (e.g. a small hydraulic press). As a few simple examples, if I were to build such a mobile workshop for myself I would have more LED lights evenly distributed under the awning than you had at the Norton trailer, electronic mosquito zappers, an exhaust fan in the roof to circulate air, awnings of the type that could have skirts attached for cold nights, and multi-compartment parts trays (sort of like muffin tins) that clipped to each of the lifts.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #756668
11/20/18 2:03 pm
11/20/18 2:03 pm
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 494
Dallas Texas
RPM Offline
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Dallas Texas
A small press is a great idea.
We changed to better LED lights in Sturgis. The rope LED lights sucked. We had side panels for the canopy and used them a few times on trip.
A carb built and ready to bolt was addded to the list. Spare magneto is harder to deal with. All the Norton have different type and size sprockets. Where can I buy the small magneto sprockets? We will try to make them all the same.
We had a valve spring break on th 15 and fixed it beside the rode. Had a float needle not seating well but limped it in and replaced carb that night. A spare carb would have been better that day.
Keep making a list so I can copy it.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #756823
11/22/18 10:13 am
11/22/18 10:13 am
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,838
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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Originally Posted by RPM
Keep making a list so I can copy it.
In no particular order, leaving out most of the obvious items (e.g. a socket set), keeping in mind what I remember you already having (e.g. TIG welder), and making no claims that I might not have forgotten something:

all special tools, jigs and fixtures that were used in rebuilding the bike
Stellite 6 filler wire
Inconel 625 filler wire for buffer on which to add Stellite
5356 filler wire for Birmabrite, in case you ride a Vincent next time
oxyacetylene torch
die grinder with polishing attachments (for finishing any emergency Stellite repair)
set of carbide burrs
silver solder and flux
small bench grinder with standard and SiC wheels
lathe with 4-jaw chuck
set of pre-ground HS and/or carbide cutters for lathe
dial and test indicators with Noga-type holder
(2) ea. 8" & 4" C-clamps
battery-powered impact wrench
brake line tubing bender
250 mL plastic disposable beakers
20cc disposable syringes
DocZ rollers
Neway valve seat cutters and mandrels
balancing rollers
blind bearing puller set
soft jaw covers for vise
cable ferrules
12 ft. inner Bowden cables in all relevant ODs
Felco cable cutter
pre-made clutch, brake and throttle cables
solder pot and flux
thread file
260/200 W soldering gun
butane-powered soldering iron
rosin core solder
several spools of 16 AWG insulated wire
wire stripper
crimp electrical fittings with crimper tool when soldering isn't practical or convenient
portable oscilloscope with spark plug probe
clamp-on DC ammeter with 39.99A scale
LCR meter with 0.01 Ohm resolution
coil tester (e.g. Merc-O-Tronic 98)
6V/12V battery charger
Corona dope
Borescope
stereomicroscope on articulating arm
eye loupes
pop rivet tool with 1/8" pop rivets and 1/4" drill bit for sheet metal repairs
steel sheets pre-drilled for pop rivets
5-min. epoxy
EZ Turn petcock lub
Lubricam cam lub
spare rings, valves, guides, springs and valve keepers
larger and smaller main jets than currently installed
Kit containing altimeter, RAD meter and Mikuni jetting calculator
new needle and needle jet (pre-measured)
delglazing hone

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #756883
11/22/18 11:44 pm
11/22/18 11:44 pm
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,251
argyll. scotland, uk
gavin eisler Online content
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argyll. scotland, uk


"Corona dope
Borescope
stereomicroscope on articulating arm
eye loupes"

Poetic, Corona Dope eh! whats that?


71 Devimead A65 750
56 Norbsa 68 Longstroke A65
Cagiva Raptor 650
MZ TS 250
The poster formerly known as Pod
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #756884
11/22/18 11:55 pm
11/22/18 11:55 pm
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,577
ohio, usa
kevin roberts Offline

DOPE
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ohio, usa
Originally Posted by Magnetoman

Kit containing altimeter, RAD meter and Mikuni jetting calculator


unless you're just curious, you don't need an altimeter for jetting if you already have the RAD meter. having said that, i always record temperature even though the RAD meters take that into account too.


"Are bikes so nice as all that?" asked the mole, shyly...

"Nice? They're the only thing," said the Water Rat Solemnly, as he leaned forward on the handlebars. "Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about with bikes."
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: chaterlea25] #756912
11/23/18 9:01 am
11/23/18 9:01 am
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,838
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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U.S.
Originally Posted by gavin eisler
Corona Dope eh! whats that?
It's polystyrene dissolved in a solvent. When it dries on a wire it forms a thick insulating coating. I use it on every magneto I rebuild, as well as in other places where neither electrical tape nor shrink tubing would work very well.

Originally Posted by kevin roberts
having said that, i always record temperature even though the RAD meters take that into account too.
In the interests of saving space I didn't mention the hygrometer and wind speed indicator I also carry in my jetting kit.(*)

If only I could get RPM to pack his Texas-size truck and trailer rig properly he easily could use the following as the Norton Team's support vehicle for the next Cannonball.

(*)My jetting kit. Clockwise from top left: stopwatch, wind speed meter, calculator, hygrometer/thermometer, RAD meter, altimeter, another stopwatch, Mikuni jetting calculator. Not shown are the notebook, pens, small flashlight, and spare batteries that fit in the compartment of the police-style clipboard.

Attached Files Renault.jpgJettingKit.jpg
Last edited by Magnetoman; 11/27/18 7:54 pm. Reason: (*)added photo of jetting kit.
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #756939
11/23/18 7:07 pm
11/23/18 7:07 pm
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,577
ohio, usa
kevin roberts Offline

DOPE
kevin roberts  Offline

DOPE

Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,577
ohio, usa
Originally Posted by Magnetoman
It's polystyrene dissolved in a solvent. When it dries on a wire it forms a thick insulating coating. I use it on every magneto I rebuild, as well as in other places where neither electrical tape nor shrink tubing would work very well.


my kids do that to generate home-made napalm.


"Are bikes so nice as all that?" asked the mole, shyly...

"Nice? They're the only thing," said the Water Rat Solemnly, as he leaned forward on the handlebars. "Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about with bikes."
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: kevin roberts] #756964
11/24/18 12:23 am
11/24/18 12:23 am
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,130
Stone Creek OH USA
R
Rich B Online happy

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Posts: 5,130
Stone Creek OH USA
Originally Posted by kevin roberts
my kids do that to generate home-made napalm.


Ah yes.......normal kid behavior in SE OH. I am glad to see they are fitting in with their peers!


laughing

Last edited by Rich B; 11/24/18 12:23 am.

Never underestimate the human ability to elevate stupid to a whole new level!.
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #757064
11/25/18 6:14 am
11/25/18 6:14 am
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,838
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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Since I knew when I got the Ariel that I wouldn't be working on the magneto for some months I hoped to find a spare on eBay in case a disaster awaited when I opened it up. Although a KSA1 finally turned up some months later it was at a pretty high price and by then I knew the original magneto was rebuildable. However, I left the search in place and a second one showed up a week ago with a low starting bid. On the premise that I didn't need it, but what the heck, I placed a low bid. Even though there were two other bidders, neither of them wanted it very badly so I got it for a (relative) song. All to aid my quest to have the most comprehensive collection of special tools, jigs and spares for 1928 Black Ariels in the U.S., if not the entire Western Hemisphere.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #757066
11/25/18 8:54 am
11/25/18 8:54 am
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 360
Irene, South Africa
robcurrie Offline
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It will be nice to have a complete spare 'bike in the backup trailer, or a team mate riding a sacrificial backup 'bike a couple of places behind you.

Rob C

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #757140
11/26/18 4:06 am
11/26/18 4:06 am
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,838
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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Magnetoman  Online Content OP

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Waiting for me when I got back from a short trip was the Chronometric cable I ordered a month or so ago. As I wrote previously, I have an 80 mph Chronometric I got from Kurt Fischer along with the gear and 90-deg. drive mechanism for the rear wheel. Since the Chronometric was used on Gold Stars, having it on the Ariel will make a nice connection between Valentine Page's earlier and later machines.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: robcurrie] #757177
11/26/18 1:57 pm
11/26/18 1:57 pm
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 822
Overland Missouri
O
old mule Offline
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Overland Missouri
Or an extra rider. you could ditch one if he or she failed, thaw out another from the cryo trailer. That would be an advantage of being Team Owner.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: old mule] #757196
11/26/18 4:14 pm
11/26/18 4:14 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,838
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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Magnetoman  Online Content OP

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Originally Posted by robcurrie
It will be nice to have a complete spare 'bike in the backup trailer,
Originally Posted by old mule
Or an extra rider. you could ditch one if he or she failed, thaw out another from the cryo trailer.
An alternate plan would be to take all the money that otherwise would be spent on buying and rebuilding a bike, outfitting a trailer, paying for motels and food for the crew, etc. and offering half of it as a bribe to the organizer to give a First Place award. The money saved doing it this much more efficient way would more than cover First Class airfare to and from the start, and again to and from the finish two weeks later.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #757197
11/26/18 4:18 pm
11/26/18 4:18 pm
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 50
NY State
N
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NY State

Love the picture of that French coffee wagon. I spotted something similar recently in Venice (California), only it was a large Airstream with similar awning-sides and back. It's a must-have for future Cannonballs. It would do really well serving croissants, coffee and anything NOT a pulled pork sandwich.

While awaiting designs for a new spares truck, read The Van, by Roddy Doyle. Almost as funny as rebuilding a 1928 Arial.


1949 BSA ZB34 'Bitsa'
1959 BSA DBD34 Catalina
1973 Norton Commando 850 R
1974 Norton Commando 850 R (I know, one too many)
1998 Montesa HRC Trials
2004 Ducati M1000ie
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #757746
12/01/18 6:54 pm
12/01/18 6:54 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,838
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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As an update of (non-) progress on the Ariel, Kibblewhite informed me the exhaust valve blank is still on backorder, eBay informed me the KSA1 magneto I bought for no good reason has left England, and Chase-Harper informed me the bags being repaired under their lifetime warranty should be finished and shipped shortly. In other words, there is no progress to report on the Ariel.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #758390
12/06/18 11:44 pm
12/06/18 11:44 pm
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,838
U.S.
Magnetoman Online content OP

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In July I wrote:
Originally Posted by Magnetoman
Richard Kal has just put me on to the Slovakian Ariel Club who seem to have sprockets in all three sizes (19T, 21T, and 23T).
I ordered one of their 19T sprocket assemblies that arrived just before I departed for the Cannonball, but Esha-Metalworks pointed out that despite the listing saying it fits "1927-193?," it's actually for 1929. Although he said the sprocket and mating piece fit the splines on my Ariel's crankshaft, the ID is different so the assembly requires a different spring that his company also produces. It was too late to do anything about it at that point, but after I returned from the Cannonball I ordered the spring and cup. The package arrived today and indeed everything fits.

This gives me the option of dropping the gearing by ~20% which would make 1st gear much more friendly for around town, albeit at the expense of rpm on highways. I originally wanted the sprocket because of fear I would need it for the Rockies, but that fear proved totally unfounded given the Ariel's abundant h.p. Anyway, I now have a choice of gearing, which is a good thing.

Attached Files 19TSprocket.jpg
Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #758841
12/11/18 12:47 am
12/11/18 12:47 am
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Magnetoman Online content OP

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Magnetoman  Online Content OP

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Today's disappointment is the extra KSA1 magneto I don't need arrived and it isn't a KSA1 so now it's also a headache I don't need. I've contacted the seller. Meanwhile, the valve blank hasn't arrived yet so I continue work on the Spitfire.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #758995
Yesterday at 03:16 AM
Yesterday at 03:16 AM
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Magnetoman Online content OP

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The seller volunteered to refund the purchase price with me keeping the magneto and paying the shipping. I agreed and he's already refunded it to Paypal. A quick search didn't turn up any leads on what the RM1 magneto might have been used on so it will just go on the dusty shelf that looks like a miniature version of the final warehouse scene in 'The Raiders of the Lost Arc'.

Re: 1928 Ariel Model C [Re: Magnetoman] #759036
Yesterday at 02:31 PM
Yesterday at 02:31 PM
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Magnetoman Online content OP

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Magnetoman  Online Content OP

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This thread hit 300k views yesterday, but seems to have reached saturation:

9 months to reach 50,000 views
+3 months; 100,000
+2 months; 150,000
+1.8 months; 200,000
+1.5 months; 250,000
+1.8 months; 300,000

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