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Rear brake plate #757623
11/30/18 2:07 pm
11/30/18 2:07 pm
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,999
Maryland
JD Offline OP

Moto-Amish
JD  Offline OP

Moto-Amish

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,999
Maryland
I'm in the final process of cleaning up my BSA...again. I've been plating the older threaded iron pieces that have been wire wheeled down to bare metal in the distant past and cleaning up the aluminum bits. My latest head scratcher is the pivot pin on the rear brake plate in the photo. It's notched above the threads, but doesn't seem to want to budge. I don't think it's threaded into the plate, but someone correct me if I'm wrong. Heat hasn't seemed to help. Do I just need a bigger hammer and some marvel mystery oil?


Attached Files IMG_20181130_085100837.jpg

Josh
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Re: Rear brake plate [Re: JD] #757632
11/30/18 3:30 pm
11/30/18 3:30 pm
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,135
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Allan Gill Offline

BritBike Forum member
Allan Gill  Offline

BritBike Forum member

Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,135
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Turn the oven on full, when its reached full heat, throw the part in. (don't put the part in then heat up the oven) the Alu will expand faster than the steel shaft, after a minute, take it out, dose it with penetrating fluid (non flamible, like WD40) and give it a sharp bob with a mallet. it should come straight out. Leave it in the oven too long and the pin will have expanded also.


beerchug
Re: Rear brake plate [Re: JD] #757634
11/30/18 3:41 pm
11/30/18 3:41 pm
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 900
Farnham, Surrey, UK
gunner Offline
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gunner  Offline
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 900
Farnham, Surrey, UK
+1 on what Allen says, the pivot pin is probably corroded in place in which case a good soaking in your favourite dismantling lubricant followed by heat usually works.


1968 A65 Firebird
1967 B44 Shooting Star
1972 Norton Commando
Re: Rear brake plate [Re: JD] #757650
11/30/18 6:37 pm
11/30/18 6:37 pm
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,999
Maryland
JD Offline OP

Moto-Amish
JD  Offline OP

Moto-Amish

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,999
Maryland
Last time I did that was years ago to the main bearing in an apartment after I was first married. Boy, did it piss off my wife.

She just left the house for the next 4 hours, so I have at least that long to clear out the smell.


Josh
Re: Rear brake plate [Re: JD] #757689
12/01/18 1:21 am
12/01/18 1:21 am
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,999
Maryland
JD Offline OP

Moto-Amish
JD  Offline OP

Moto-Amish

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,999
Maryland
Well, the oven was a failure. Multiple heatings, dunking in cool water to try to shock it has been a failure. I even tried heating it and using a jack and the frame of my 4,800 lbs. truck as a hydraulic press. I was able to lift the truck off the ground with the pivot pin, brake plate and a socket, so I don't think any matter of beating the thing with a hammer is going to work. It's now sitting in penetrating oil overnight so we'll see where it goes tomorrow.


Josh
Re: Rear brake plate [Re: JD] #757735
12/01/18 4:20 pm
12/01/18 4:20 pm
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 100
Oklahoma
T
Tracey Spear Offline
BritBike Forum member
Tracey Spear  Offline
BritBike Forum member
T

Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 100
Oklahoma
I found this buried on the C5 Ignitions site: I'm going to try it on some stuck cylinder barrel studs that so far refuse to budge using WD40.

Tired of spending $5 a can for penetrating oil that doesn't work?
Check out this report...

Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid.

Re: Rear brake plate [Re: JD] #757753
12/01/18 8:35 pm
12/01/18 8:35 pm
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,135
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Allan Gill Offline

BritBike Forum member
Allan Gill  Offline

BritBike Forum member

Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,135
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
When using the atf blend in a cylinder, you usually ignite the acetone and have a mini bonfire, the 600 degrees or what ever it is allows enough expansion for the ATF to penetrate.


beerchug
Re: Rear brake plate [Re: JD] #757757
12/01/18 9:04 pm
12/01/18 9:04 pm
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 900
Farnham, Surrey, UK
gunner Offline
BritBike Forum member
gunner  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 900
Farnham, Surrey, UK
I've recently found that a 50/50 mix of brake fluid (dot 3 or 4) and acetone makes a really good homemade dismantelling fluid. Suggest you get a bucket filled with this mix and let the brake plate soak for a few days, make sure theres a lid fitted to keep the fumes from evaporating and stirr the mix every day. Hopefully this will free up the seized pivot.


1968 A65 Firebird
1967 B44 Shooting Star
1972 Norton Commando
Re: Rear brake plate [Re: Allan Gill] #757760
12/01/18 9:18 pm
12/01/18 9:18 pm
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,999
Maryland
JD Offline OP

Moto-Amish
JD  Offline OP

Moto-Amish

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,999
Maryland
Originally Posted by Allan Gill
When using the atf blend in a cylinder, you usually ignite the acetone and have a mini bonfire, the 600 degrees or what ever it is allows enough expansion for the ATF to penetrate.


Kinda like this Allan? That was a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Still no luck getting that piston unstuck and it'll have to be drilled out.

Attached Files IMAG0385.jpg

Josh
Re: Rear brake plate [Re: JD] #757809
12/02/18 9:05 am
12/02/18 9:05 am
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,135
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
Allan Gill Offline

BritBike Forum member
Allan Gill  Offline

BritBike Forum member

Joined: May 2013
Posts: 5,135
Rotherham - S. Yorkshire
I’m Starting to think your blessed with having all things seized solid JD.

This may or not be of some help, but when I worked in a garage I used to release things like track rod ends and drop links by cutting the end of the stud back flush with the nut it was bolted to, keep cutting away until the nut and the shaft were flush and shiny, then soak with WD40 and it comes straight off. In these cases the ball joint would spin in the housing before the nut would undo and then you’d have a pita job on your hands and lost time too.

Doing the above with damage the brake plate, but you could cut the shaft short of where it needs to be leaving a couple of threads showing. Then drill the centre with as big of a bit as your comfortable using then using a hacksaw, cut down the threads (almost like slicing a pizza) drive a punch down the drilled hole, and it should have released the grip from above. You could also use a dremel and break through the wall in 3 points for the part that’s inside the brake plate, I’ve done that with bearing retainers. But either way that pin will be scrap afterwards.


beerchug
Re: Rear brake plate [Re: Allan Gill] #757812
12/02/18 9:45 am
12/02/18 9:45 am
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,893
Sydney Australia
B
BSA_WM20 Offline
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BSA_WM20  Offline
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B

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,893
Sydney Australia
If you have an air hammer/chisel around, they work a treat on corroded solid parts.
he 10,000 tiny blows a minute whith you pushing faily hard will break corrosion bonding a lot better than smacking once with a 20 lb hammer, and do far less damage.


Bike Beesa
Trevor

Moderated by  Allan Gill, Jon W. Whitley 


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