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Resurrecting a '74 Trident #749441
09/17/18 1:33 am
09/17/18 1:33 am
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 100
Woodbury, MN
R
rickt Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
rickt  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
R

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 100
Woodbury, MN
I must apologize upfront for what is likely a lengthy post. The bike is a '74 T150V that I purchased new. It has approximately 25,000 miles. Cosmetically, the bike is nearly perfect. The bike ran quite well until I was hit broadside in a roundabout some 5 years ago. When the accident occurred, I was on my way to a repair shop to have a Rita ignition installed. The Rita was purchased probably some time in the early 90s and sat in the original box for many years. Damage that resulted from the accident was mostly cosmetic although the insurance cost added up to $2500. In any case I had the bike trailered to the same shop and the gentleman did all the accident repairs and installed the Rita. Given that I suffered some physical and mental damage from the accident, I was not able to ride for a number of months. The repair guy offered to ride the bike to my home. This was the start of the the first issue. Once I was sufficiently healed I realized the bike would not idle. Given some throttle it would run ok but no amount of coaxing provided a consistent idle. Experiencing a number of additional health issues in the subsequent years, the bike was allowed to rest quietly in the garage with all fuel drained. Approximately 2 months ago I generated sufficient enthusiasm to attempt to get the Trident rideable. Now it requires 10-12 kicks (previously started 1-2 kicks) to get it started and after a warm up period will idle reasonably well, but when the throttle is twisted, the bike chokes and gasps. Not suggesting of promise for riding.

With a freshly charged battery and the ignition switch on, the entire electrical system is closed to dead. The lights are exceedingly dim, even the red oil pressure light is exceedingly faint. Although my memory is very poor, I believe this problem occurred quite some time ago. As I recall I remetied it by disconnecting most electrical connectors, cleaning the contacts, and coating with dielectric grease. Could this be the came issue?

Finally, issue number 3. I am afraid I noticed this problem many years ago. When the bike is good and warm, at idle the oil pressure light comes on. I have a Triples Rule oil pressure gauge currently on the bike. The pressure drops to near zero when the bike is at idle. I believe I posted regarding this problem years ago but do not remember the suggestion(s).

This is where things currently stand. I will be most appreciative of any recommendations from other users.

rickt


rickt

'74 Trident
'75 Roadster
'76 BMW R90S
'87 BMW K75C

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Re: Resurrecting a '74 Trident [Re: rickt] #749477
09/17/18 12:37 pm
09/17/18 12:37 pm
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,686
Mississauga, Ontario.
A
Adam M. Offline
BritBike Forum member
Adam M.  Offline
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A

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,686
Mississauga, Ontario.
Your electric problems could be rectified by cleaning all the connectors, your carburetor problems by taking your carbs apart and cleaning them in chemical or ultrasound wash with worn parts being replaced, but no oil pressure situation shows your engine needs immediate attention and probably quite expensive repair.
What is the oil pressure on 4-5 k revs ?

Re: Resurrecting a '74 Trident [Re: rickt] #749480
09/17/18 12:52 pm
09/17/18 12:52 pm
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 596
Great Southern Land
tridentt150v Offline
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tridentt150v  Offline
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 596
Great Southern Land
Yep, sounds like its time for a rebuild.

Re: Resurrecting a '74 Trident [Re: rickt] #749580
09/18/18 1:06 am
09/18/18 1:06 am
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,358
Magnolia, TX
htown Online content
BritBike Forum member
htown  Online Content
BritBike Forum member

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,358
Magnolia, TX
What's the oil pressure like at 3500 rpm on a hot engine. Should be 60psi or more. Sounds like the main and rod plain bearings are shot. Sure wouldn't ride it very far like that.


1978 Bonneville T140E
1974 Trident
1970 BSA Thunderbolt
1971 Norton Commando
1972 Norton Commando
1973 Norton Commando
1974 Norton Commando
2004 XL 1200R Sportster

Everything will be alright in the end. If its not alright, its not the end.
Re: Resurrecting a '74 Trident [Re: rickt] #749606
09/18/18 8:19 am
09/18/18 8:19 am
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,238
Scotland
S
Stuart Online content
BritBike Forum member
Stuart  Online Content
BritBike Forum member
S

Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,238
Scotland
Hi Rick,

Sorry to read about your various health problems. frown

Originally Posted by rickt
With a freshly charged battery and the ignition switch on, the entire electrical system is closed to dead. The lights are exceedingly dim, even the red oil pressure light is exceedingly faint.

You might or might not have to disconnect all the electrical connectors again to clean them. Ime, unless your garage suffers badly from condensation, insulated electrical connections won't corrode badly for many years, especially as you'd fitted them with dielectric grease last time.

What you've described are several separate circuits with the same problem, so I'd look first at parts of the harness that are common to more than one circuit:-

. I've come across a bizarre error(?) is some Lucas harnesses - you can trace a Red wire from almost every electrical component to a ring terminal on one of the head-steady studs, but not from the ring terminal to battery +ve. There is a Red wire from battery +ve to somewhere else on the bike but it means the electrical return path for all the components is from the head-steady stud through random bits of bike to the other Red wire ... corrosion between the random bits of bike will affect the electrical return path ...

If you have a multi-meter, use its Ohms function to check first there's a good low-resistance between battery +ve and the head-steady stud with the wires on, then try a few checks between battery +ve and different components, ensuring the meter shows the connections as low-resistance throughout.

. If having good low-resistance connections between components and battery +ve doesn't improve the electrics, turn to those between battery -ve and the ignition switch, in particular the fuse and its connections. If the fuse is the standard glass cylinder with metal end caps enclosing the fusible strip, I'd replace it as a matter of course; if you want to replace with the same, use a US 15A or 20A (not 35A) but replacement of both fuse and holder with the more-common automotive blade is a good idea.

. Check the wiring and connections between battery -ve and ignition switch for similar low resistance as you did between components and battery +ve.

. Similarly, check for low resistance across the ignition switch contacts, using the meter connected to the input (Brown/Blue wire) terminal and the Brown/White (lighting switch supply) and White (all other components supply) terminals.

Fwiw, I'd try to solve the electrical problem(s) first; the bike might have carburation problems also but, with an electronic ignition fitted, your "first issue" might be another electrical one ...

Originally Posted by rickt
When the bike is good and warm, at idle the oil pressure light comes on. I have a Triples Rule oil pressure gauge currently on the bike. The pressure drops to near zero when the bike is at idle.

As others have posted, regrettably this might indicate the need for a full engine strip and remedial work. frown However, before doing this, check with another gauge - like most things, gauges aren't immune from failure ...

Hth.

Regards,

Re: Resurrecting a '74 Trident [Re: Stuart] #751054
10/01/18 2:01 am
10/01/18 2:01 am
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 100
Woodbury, MN
R
rickt Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
rickt  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
R

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 100
Woodbury, MN
Stuart, I believe you kindly responded to my posts from several years ago. It is most likely that I created yet another problem this afternoon. My brain was telling me that the battery might actually be the problem. So, I removed the battery from my Commando and connected it to the Trident leads. This is where my prior stroke came into play. I may have reversed the positive/negative connections. In any case there was a spark when I made the second connection to the battery. Not to be deterred I forged ahead and made the connection which caused the fuse to blow. Now I am really at a point of confusion. Other than the fuse, what might be damaged? Would this foolish act damage the Rita ignition? As a start I will order a few replacement fuses and possibly get a battery. Would you be able to recommend a good battery for the Trident. Assuming I can remedy the new problem, I will follow your advice for trouble-shooting additional electrical issues.


rickt

'74 Trident
'75 Roadster
'76 BMW R90S
'87 BMW K75C

Re: Resurrecting a '74 Trident [Re: rickt] #751071
10/01/18 6:39 am
10/01/18 6:39 am
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 596
Great Southern Land
tridentt150v Offline
BritBike Forum member
tridentt150v  Offline
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 596
Great Southern Land
As long as the wire isn't melted around the battery lead and immediate vicinity it is unlikely you did any damage. That's what fuses are for smile.

Only way to know for sure is to run the bike, if it goes its fine.


Battery....its hard to go past a Mottobatt MB9U like this one., but use your own eBay etc.
https://www.eBay.com.au/itm/Motobatt-AGM-Battery-Suit-Triumph-750-TRIDENT-3-Cyl-T150-750-1970-MB9U/282765156511?hash=item41d61de09f:m:myFz5NVb14flvdU2-bvIiWA

Re: Resurrecting a '74 Trident [Re: tridentt150v] #751147
10/01/18 10:09 pm
10/01/18 10:09 pm
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 100
Woodbury, MN
R
rickt Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
rickt  Offline OP
BritBike Forum member
R

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 100
Woodbury, MN
Motobatt MB9U battery and fuses ordered.
rickt


rickt

'74 Trident
'75 Roadster
'76 BMW R90S
'87 BMW K75C



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